Beginner Darkroom equipment - Black and white developing.

Michael Batten

Michael Batten

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Good evening all,

I am taking the first steps into developing and eventually processing 120 film at home. Does anyone have any experience in this that they'd care to share? What to do and more importantly what not to do? Initially I am going to concentrate on black and white film, probably Ilford Delta 100 and 400.

Can anyone shed any light on what the best developer, stopper and fixer would be for this? Should to search ebay for an enlarger or practice developing? So many questions.

Thanks for stopping by.

Michael.
 
Michael, there's a fairly long and complicated sticky thread on devving your first B&W film that's probably worth a look. There's also this thread on devving and scanning, this one on measuring cylinders, and this thread on favourite film and processing combo. And probably many more that I haven't noticed.

Alhtough quite a lot on here do process their own b&w (me, not yet, coming soon!), rather fewer actually make their own enlargements. Most of us have a "figital" workflow: film camera, process at home or commercially, scan at home or commercially, import to LR, A3, PS etc, process and print digitally. However, we have word from several members that enlarging your own is even more fulfilling. Ther's even one member who's into various alternative chemical processes (though I can't remember the name... not Cyanotype, but one of those!).

So, keep asking the questyions (perhaps more specific as you go) and share the results, please, please! You'll get lots of encouragement here.
 
Thanks Chris, that's really helpful. I will have a look at those threads then maybe come back with some more specific questions.
 
The good news is, you don't even need a darkroom for just developing - a dark bag and a Paterson tank (other brands available) will do the job. Add a film scanner and you have the hybrid process Chris mentions.
 
ChrisR said:
Ther's even one member who's into various alternative chemical processes (though I can't remember the name... not Cyanotype, but one of those!).
Click to expand...

Edbray, in fact so alternative he doesn't even do darkroom printing anymore, carbon transfer prints or something, he's taken a shot at nearly everything but hes not around much these days.
I've given up scanning, I'm just shooting and printing b/w, there are quite a few optical printers here, if not printing and posting them right now, they're still a good few years of experience in front of me and have loads of useful advice about shooting, developing and printing negs with an enlarger.
 
Michael, it's worth considering the films you want to shoot with and if there is a developer (or dilutions that will allow you to use a single developer) that will accommodate all these films. We find id-11 is pretty robust and works well for a whole range of B&W films. As absoujaparov rightly mentioned, you don't need a great deal of space or equipment for developing. In some ways 120 is slightly easier than 35mm (as you don't have to retrieve the film if it's all the way in the canister), just remember to spool up the film and not the backing paper! If you want to know our exact process and equipment, hit me up with a PM and I will make a list for you!

Kind regards,

Chris.
 
I started developing my own film a couple of months ago as well, and I have a couple of things that you might find useful. These won't help you start developing, but you might find they save you some stress once you've got going.

1. Put the film onto the spool and into the tank before you start mixing the chemicals or warming them up in a water bath. It's much, much easier to put the film on when your hands are bone dry I find. Also make sure the spool is totally dry, otherwise the film sticks a bit as it goes round.

2. Cut a small radius onto the leading corners of the film. Most of the youtube videos I've seen say to cut the corners off at 45 degrees, but I find the resultant corners from this seem to snag more as the film goes around the spool. This might just be me though!

3. If the film snags in the spool just give it a little wiggle back and forth very gently, and it should free up. To start with I got frustrated and ended up kinking some film by trying to be too forceful with getting it to go round.

4. You might find it easier to cut the film ends in daylight instead of in the bag. I unroll my films just enough to show the end few mm of the film and then trim the corners. I find it a heck of a lot easier than doing it in the dark bag, but you have to be really careful not to unroll it so that exposes more than a few mm, or you'll ruin the end image (it's actually a little tricky to cut with such a little amount showing). Some people will probably disagree with me on this point, but I find it works for me!

5. Hang them in the shower when you're finished, as bathrooms tend to be low on dust. You'll come to hate dust and the time it takes to remove it in Lightroom or Photoshop! Also make sure that your squeegee is free from any particles or you'll get nice long scratches down your film. This one comes from experience lol.

Good luck!
 
ccimaging said:
Michael, it's worth considering the films you want to shoot with and if there is a developer (or dilutions that will allow you to use a single developer) that will accommodate all these films. We find id-11 is pretty robust and works well for a whole range of B&W films. As absoujaparov rightly mentioned, you don't need a great deal of space or equipment for developing. In some ways 120 is slightly easier than 35mm (as you don't have to retrieve the film if it's all the way in the canister), just remember to spool up the film and not the backing paper! If you want to know our exact process and equipment, hit me up with a PM and I will make a list for you!

Kind regards,

Chris.
Click to expand...

Thanks Chris, I'll certainly send you a PM for that info.
 
Thanks for everyone's advice, you've all been very helpful :ty:
 
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