EOS 7D - Hints And Tips.

Back to AF sensitivity, I set it to low for moving bird shots and high for static shots. Has anyone experience of surf photography. Should I also set sensitivity to low or keep it at medium?

Any thoughts appreciated
 
Blackbird said:
Back to AF sensitivity, I set it to low for moving bird shots and high for static shots. Has anyone experience of surf photography. Should I also set sensitivity to low or keep it at medium?

Any thoughts appreciated
Click to expand...
When you alter AF sensitivity it's important to understand that the tracking speed remains the same regardless of whether you set the sensitivity to fast or slow.

What actually changes is the systems reaction time to momentarily losing focus on your main subject after you've obtained focus lock, either due to a weaving BIF, where you momentarily get the AF spot on the bg, or in the case of a surfer -another surfer or boat etc, comes between you and the surfer on which you've locked focus. With a slow setting the focus wont react so quickly and focus on the bg or the object coming between you and the subject before you can get that AF spot back on your target subject.
 
CT said:
When you alter AF sensitivity it's important to understand that the tracking speed remains the same regardless of whether you set the sensitivity to fast or slow.

What actually changes is the systems reaction time to momentarily losing focus on your main subject after you've obtained focus lock, either due to a weaving BIF, where you momentarily get the AF spot on the bg, or in the case of a surfer -another surfer or boat etc, comes between you and the surfer on which you've locked focus. With a slow setting the focus wont react so quickly and focus on the bg or the object coming between you and the camera before you can get that AF spot back on your target subject.
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Thanks for that explanation, makes more sense now (y)
 
My 7d arrives tomorrow, found this thread at the right time as I'm in the studio on Thursday!
Just a quick one and apologies if it's "off topic", but swag72, where did you buy your 3rd party batteries from? I've ordered some off ebay that come with their own charger and clearly state that they won't show as being in the camera.

swag72 said:
If you are considering buying 3rd party batteries, they may not charge in the Canon charger.

They are also not showing in the charging meter in the battery menu. They will show as having no charge, despite them being fully charged. Also when you first put them in the camera you have to accept them as it says that the battery is not recognised by the camera.

They will work fine as a back up, but had I known this prior to buying I wouldn't have bothered.

Hope that helps someone that is looking into these.
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jj_glos said:
Just before I unsubscribe to this thread, I have one last tip.... trade for a 1D mk III, I did and it's grand! :D
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Not the most helpful post in a thread meant to be helping 7D users. :shrug:
 
ConfusedChicca said:
My 7d arrives tomorrow, found this thread at the right time as I'm in the studio on Thursday!
Just a quick one and apologies if it's "off topic", but swag72, where did you buy your 3rd party batteries from? I've ordered some off ebay that come with their own charger and clearly state that they won't show as being in the camera.
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The Canon 7D batterioe sare admittedly expensive, but they're chipped so they can be recognized by the camera, whereas 3rd party ones wont be, and they wont charge in the Canon charger either.

The uisable life of the Canon batteries though on a single charge is tremendous I must say... really very impressive.
 
jj_glos said:
Just before I unsubscribe to this thread, I have one last tip.... trade for a 1D mk III, I did and it's grand! :D
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i just did this and while i hate to say it as the 7D is new tech the 1D's image are just in another league to the 7D in terms of noise, iq and af.
but i am now unsubscribing from the thread as i no longer own a 7D

alastair
 
CT said:
The uisable life of the Canon batteries though on a single charge is tremendous I must say... really very impressive.
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I was impressed the night before last, when I was doing some shots for star trails - 500 30s exposures over 4 hours before the battery died.
 
CT said:
Not the most helpful post in a thread meant to be helping 7D users. :shrug:
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nigpd said:
:agree: and perhaps a little churlish too
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I was a 7D user, I bought it for sports and taking photos of a always mobile toddler. I really liked the 7D and had no particular issues with it, but I got the opportunity to trade for a 1D mkIII and that is a far better camera for my needs (never got on with the video on the 7D so don't miss that). Hence my tip of the day was to trade. :love:
 
Yes, but for those of us that have just bought a 7d or have no interest in upgrading, your comment is neither a hint or a tip. And I thought you were unsubscribing?
 
jj_glos said:
Well in that case you may ignore my tip :)
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How about starting your own thread with some pics from the 1D3 - some real world examples of how it's actually better. Just telling us it's great means absolutely nothing tbh.
 
I did the trade with jj_glos and don't regret it for one moment. I :love: the 7D.
 
I got me a nice new 7d:clap: but can't view my raw files in cs3. I have searched for a raw file but don't seem to be able to find one, does anyone know and can point me in the right direction
thanks
kim
 
Orville said:
My top tip is to purchase one of these Nintendo DS screen protectors for your LCD. Two protectors are included, the smaller one fits very nicely and the larger one can be cut to size.
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Never see the need as Canon screens are already protected the rear is NOT the LED screen but a cover screen which it I believe scratch proof.
 
kimo said:
I got me a nice new 7d:clap: but can't view my raw files in cs3. I have searched for a raw file but don't seem to be able to find one, does anyone know and can point me in the right direction
thanks
kim
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I don't think CS3 can reads 7D raw files, you either have to convert the raw files to tiff using Canon's software (that came with 7d) or use adobes raw to DNG convertor, CS3 can then open the DNG file.

The raw-DNG convertor (here- free download)

http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/detail.jsp?ftpID=4803
 
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You need the latest ACR which I don't think is compatible with CS3. Either upgrade to CS5 or download adobe raw->.dng converter.
 
You need DNG converter 5.6 which you can get from here with instructions with what to do it says it is for cs4 and later but may work with earlier versions...

This is from the adobe website

Release Notes
DNG Converter 5.4 and subsequent updates include new DNG Compatibility conversion options. These choices help address the additional options available with the new DNG l
• Camera Raw 5.4 and later: The DNG file will be readable by Camera Raw 5.4 (Photoshop CS4) and later, and Lightroom 2.4 and later. The DNG file will often be readable by earlier versions, depending on the camera model
• Custom:
o Backward Version Option: DNG 1.1, DNG 1.3 (default 1.3)
o Checkbox: Linear (demosaiced) (default unchecked)
o Checkbox: Uncompressed (default unchecked)
This version of the DNG Converter is now provided with an installation utility. The installation utility is designed to place the DNG Converter application in the Application(Mac) or Programs(Win) directory and install a set of color profiles required for the DNG Converter to function properly. These profiles are copied to a common resource location.
 
kimo said:
I got me a nice new 7d:clap: but can't view my raw files in cs3. I have searched for a raw file but don't seem to be able to find one, does anyone know and can point me in the right direction
thanks
kim
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you not installed your software then your canon software will read it and do a lot of the work needed, not as god as PS I agree well not the CS4
 
Just acquired my 7D and found out something interesting when doing a bit of digging - this may of course have been around for ages but it passed me by so I guess possibly others too ...

If you set a Picture Style this is carried over with the RAW file (yes, RAW file) if you use DPP. You can of course back off the effects if you so choose, but it does allow you to do a bit of 'post' work on RAW images in-camera.

Now, if like me you use Lightroom (don't know about Aperature or anything else) this data is NOT carried over so you get an 'unprocessed' RAW image (you can of course apply settings on import). You may have noticed that the thumbail image changes as Lightroom writes it's own preview - the original thumbnail is generated in-camera so includes the picture style settings. Some people have reported seeing the image they like dissapear before their very eyes, to be replaced by a flat, dull version, and they don't know why!

Some good tips in this thread - thanks!

Andy
 
andybeach said:
Just acquired my 7D and found out something interesting when doing a bit of digging - this may of course have been around for ages but it passed me by so I guess possibly others too ...

If you set a Picture Style this is carried over with the RAW file (yes, RAW file) if you use DPP. You can of course back off the effects if you so choose, but it does allow you to do a bit of 'post' work on RAW images in-camera.

Now, if like me you use Lightroom (don't know about Aperature or anything else) this data is NOT carried over so you get an 'unprocessed' RAW image (you can of course apply settings on import). You may have noticed that the thumbail image changes as Lightroom writes it's own preview - the original thumbnail is generated in-camera so includes the picture style settings. Some people have reported seeing the image they like dissapear before their very eyes, to be replaced by a flat, dull version, and they don't know why!

Some good tips in this thread - thanks!

Andy
Click to expand...
Yep, DPP has always picked up the Camera picture styles.
One thing to bear in mind if you shoot in RAW and do not use DPP is that the Camera Histogram does not give a true reflection of your shot. You can overcome this by using a user defined picture style: I use Sharpness 0 Contrast -3 and Saturation -3. This gives quite a good reflection of what I get in ACR especially in relation to clipped highlights.
 
Focus points galore....!

Had a quick browse through this thread and couldn't see it mentioned but you can 'kind of' have of 5 focus points pre set up, I say kind of because there's a few caveats and you lose one gaining another :) anyway...

I tend to use a single focus point other than when using expansion tracking for moving objects and the AF-ON back focus button.

So as previously mentioned in the thread you get 1 horizontal point, then turn the camera portrait for 1 different vertical point and lets say these are the top left of the points, next as previously mentioned you can push the joystick button in on focus point point selection to centre it.

Here's the extra bit :)
C.FnIV 1 for the AE Lock button (*) set it to "Metering and AF start" but press the "IINFO" button and move the option over to "Registered AF point". Save and quit, now in normal operation bring up the select af point menu, move it to your desired point lets say the top right, now hold the af point selection button and the button on top that lights up the LCD display, if you've done it right it should beep once. You can do this same procedure in portrait mode.

Now move the af point off this and you should get the normal square which works with the AF-ON button and it should leave behind a little square which works with the AE Lock button. So you end up with 4 instant focus points and the joystick push to centre which obviously loses you the wandering AF point but gives you the fifth point.

Hope that makes sense :) and I'm sure someone will say it's been mentioned before :(
 
Calzor Suzay said:
Focus points galore....!
I tend to use a single focus point other than when using expansion tracking for moving objects and the AF-ON back focus button.
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Most of that went over my head :) but what d'you mean by AF-ON back focus button? I have my AF-ON set to switch focus off, so I basically have one shot although I'm on servo. Is that what you're saying?

Interesting thought about expansion for moving objects. I still haven't decided if single point is better or not when tracking something moving.
 
No the shutter button for me just takes the shot my AF-ON button starts the auto focus in one shot, if I want AI Servo I have it so I hold the DOF preview button in to turn on AI Servo. With AF-ON and AE Lock as above you get 2 independant focusing points.

Maybe this line was confusing "I tend to use a single focus point other than when using expansion tracking for moving objects and the AF-ON back focus button". I meant I normally have the camera on single point focusing and pick it, if I want to track something moving I'll move to the expansion focus point with the extra four points around the central moveable one and finally I use the AF-ON back button focus method, probably better described here :)
 
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I also use the AF-ON button for all my focussing and have done so for years - I would find it very strange using the shutter butter to focus these days.
I also always shoot in AI servo mode (for birds and wildlife) and when used in conjunction with back button focusing you have, pseudo one shot, AI servo and full time manual all without changing a thing. When using this you need to learn how/when to bump the focus.

I also mainly use single point focussing but for flyers I normally switch to single point expansion although with a clean BG (like open sky) then Zone AF also does very well and gives you a bigger focus area. All of these options should also be used with the tracking sensitivity options changed to suit what you are trying to shoot - for most stuff I have this set the the Sloooooowest which gives you plenty of time to get back on a flyer if you happen to lose it (if it is set faster then it will latch on to something in the BG faster thus throwing you wildly OOF). The only time I change this is if I am shooting some fast flyers that are in a group (like Swallow or finches) - in this case I would set it to fast and use zone AF which gives you a better chance of nailing one.
 
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Just want to add my appreciation for this very helpful thread.

I am a 60D owner, and we don't seem to have a similar thread, but many of the tips and links are relevant and/or thought provoking enough for the 60D too
 
I just ordered a meike battery grip for my 7D and it came with 4 generic batteries and they work without having to accept them and show the battery info. And they charge in the canon charger with no problems. Must of been lucky I guess.
 
I've tried non-genuine batteries in a couple of cameras inc the 7D. They are much cheaper, but I definitely would not recommend them. They don't always have the same life as an original one and Canon claim some will even damage your camera. Not worth the risk. I bought a genuine pack of two from Warehouse Express, which was discounted.

Best wishes,
Dayve

swag72 said:
If you are considering buying 3rd party batteries, they may not charge in the Canon charger.

They are also not showing in the charging meter in the battery menu. They will show as having no charge, despite them being fully charged. Also when you first put them in the camera you have to accept them as it says that the battery is not recognised by the camera.

They will work fine as a back up, but had I known this prior to buying I wouldn't have bothered.

Hope that helps someone that is looking into these.
Click to expand...
 
The genuine Canon batterie are expensive but their performance is nothing short of phenomenal! I use the battery grip with two batterie in and I often go weeks without charging with fairly regular use. I've gone out on a wing and a prayer with both batteries showing less than 20% charge and still managed a full days shooting without the batterie actually dying on me, and that's using the 500mm f/4L - which must be a real demand on the batteries using the AF system on that lens.
 
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Dayve said:
I've tried non-genuine batteries in a couple of cameras inc the 7D. They are much cheaper, but I definitely would not recommend them. They don't always have the same life as an original one and Canon claim some will even damage your camera. Not worth the risk. I bought a genuine pack of two from Warehouse Express, which was discounted.

Best wishes,
Dayve
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I have a £9.99 7D battery from 7dayshop, been using it since February, it hasn't damaged my camera, the usage counters work perfectly and there's no noticeable difference in performance and life expectancy.
 
Although I have only got the supplied Canon battery with my 7D I have used 3rd party batteries in the past with other Cameras (350D, 30D 40D) and the only battery that has ever failed for me was a Canon one !!!. I have never noticed any difference in performance between the Canon and 3rd party ones myself.
 
Roy C said:
I also use the AF-ON button for all my focussing and have done so for years - I would find it very strange using the shutter butter to focus these days.
I also always shoot in AI servo mode (for birds and wildlife) and when used in conjunction with back button focusing you have, pseudo one shot, AI servo and full time manual all without changing a thing. When using this you need to learn how/when to bump the focus.

I also mainly use single point focussing but for flyers I normally switch to single point expansion although with a clean BG (like open sky) then Zone AF also does very well and gives you a bigger focus area. All of these options should also be used with the tracking sensitivity options changed to suit what you are trying to shoot - for most stuff I have this set the the Sloooooowest which gives you plenty of time to get back on a flyer if you happen to lose it (if it is set faster then it will latch on to something in the BG faster thus throwing you wildly OOF). The only time I change this is if I am shooting some fast flyers that are in a group (like Swallow or finches) - in this case I would set it to fast and use zone AF which gives you a better chance of nailing one.
Click to expand...

I use more or less the same set up, but have found a problem using slow sensitivity. If a BIF is coming towards you, as opposed to a side to side flight, I found the AF wont react to the changes quickly enough to keep focus. For this reason I keep mine on the medium to fast setting for BIF. I only change this if I am in an area where trees or something else could come between the camera and the bird, then, depending on the location I may change to medium or medium slow.
 
Trev4 said:
I use more or less the same set up, but have found a problem using slow sensitivity. If a BIF is coming towards you, as opposed to a side to side flight, I found the AF wont react to the changes quickly enough to keep focus. For this reason I keep mine on the medium to fast setting for BIF. I only change this if I am in an area where trees or something else could come between the camera and the bird, then, depending on the location I may change to medium or medium slow.
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That's strange Trev, I cannot say I have ever noticed this. According to Canon the tracking sensitivity doesn’t adjust how quickly the autofocus tracks. It just determines how quick it will switch to another subject if you lose the subject. Mind you if it works for you Trev then that is all that matters.

This is how Canon explain it:-

The focus tracking sensitivity refers to how the camera responds and switches to another subject during focus tracking. This response sensitivity refers to how long the camera waits before switching to a new target subject when the current target subject escapes an AF point. It doesn’t adjust how quickly the autofocus tracks. The shorter the response time, the faster it will switch subjects to track a new subject. Therefore, if you want to quickly track changing subjects, set the sensitivity to a faster level.

However, if you want to track the same subject as much as possible without switching to another subject, set this sensitivity to a slower level to force the camera to continue tracking the same subject, even if a distracting subject enters the frame or if the subject is erratic and likely to escape from an AF point.
 
Roy C said:
That's strange Trev, I cannot say I have ever noticed this. According to Canon the tracking sensitivity doesn’t adjust how quickly the autofocus tracks. It just determines how quick it will switch to another subject if you lose the subject. Mind you if it works for you Trev then that is all that matters.

This is how Canon explain it:-

The focus tracking sensitivity refers to how the camera responds and switches to another subject during focus tracking. This response sensitivity refers to how long the camera waits before switching to a new target subject when the current target subject escapes an AF point. It doesn’t adjust how quickly the autofocus tracks. The shorter the response time, the faster it will switch subjects to track a new subject. Therefore, if you want to quickly track changing subjects, set the sensitivity to a faster level.

However, if you want to track the same subject as much as possible without switching to another subject, set this sensitivity to a slower level to force the camera to continue tracking the same subject, even if a distracting subject enters the frame or if the subject is erratic and likely to escape from an AF point.
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Cheers Roy (y). I understand what your saying and agree about the Canon explanation. I based my thoughts on experience but wonder if it was me for some reason!
I first noticed this when I was taking BIF shots at a raptor flying display. I lost focus on many shots when they were flying towards me. On checking in DPP, the shots where the AF point was on the bird were still out of focus, something I hadn't had so many problems with when they were flying side to side. On this occasion the sensitivity was set to medium slow.
This is where I based my theory. Admitted, I havent had the opportunity to take similar shots since, but for general BIF shots have used the settings I mentioned with more success. Perhaps its time for me to experiment more to find out the best settings
 
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