Exposure Compensation
- Thread starter Barney
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OP
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- Wayne
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For an effect I am looking for I need to pull the film, but will exposure compensation just push it back?
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- Kevin
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When an automatic exposure mode is used:
You might use it in a situation where the built-in exposure meter will not give the result you seek. For example, a with a backlit subject you could use positive exposure compensation to increase the exposure on the subject, otherwise the bright background would "fool" the meter into underexposing the subject.
On a shot-by-shot basis, the same effect can be achieved by varing the ISO set on the camera (as Gramps says, this does not actually change the ISO of the film).
It is most likely to be of use when the camera has automatically set the ISO using the DX code, or when a user is not confident with manual exposure.
- A positive exposure compensation will increase the exposure.
- A negative exposure compensation will decrease the exposure.
You might use it in a situation where the built-in exposure meter will not give the result you seek. For example, a with a backlit subject you could use positive exposure compensation to increase the exposure on the subject, otherwise the bright background would "fool" the meter into underexposing the subject.
On a shot-by-shot basis, the same effect can be achieved by varing the ISO set on the camera (as Gramps says, this does not actually change the ISO of the film).
It is most likely to be of use when the camera has automatically set the ISO using the DX code, or when a user is not confident with manual exposure.
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The ISO setting and exposure compensation have the same effect, they change the response of the meter, but it’s helpful to separate their use so you’re less likely to get confused:
Think of the ISO you set on the camera as being locked to how you will develop the film. So in your case you may be using a 400 speed film, but using it at ISO 200. To pull it, you would then develop it as though it was an ISO 200 film (pulled one stop).
The exposure compensation is used when taking each photo, I.e. not related to the development. For instance, if you went out in the snow, you may want to add one or two stops to the exposure compensation to make the snow white instead of muddy grey on the negatives.
Think of the ISO you set on the camera as being locked to how you will develop the film. So in your case you may be using a 400 speed film, but using it at ISO 200. To pull it, you would then develop it as though it was an ISO 200 film (pulled one stop).
The exposure compensation is used when taking each photo, I.e. not related to the development. For instance, if you went out in the snow, you may want to add one or two stops to the exposure compensation to make the snow white instead of muddy grey on the negatives.
OP
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- Wayne
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Then what would you develop at?
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- Geoff Brown
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At the ASA the film is rated at
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- Ian Grant
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It is nor as simple as that. The EI (Exposure Index) you use is based on the combination of film and developer chosen, then the development time also affects contrast and density required. Ideally you do some tests to determine the best effective EI.
Essentially you expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights, some of us use or pay lip service to the Zone System.
When I used Tmax 100 I always shot it at 50EI, but Agfa APX100 (original) at 100EI, same development times same contrast.
Ian
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I knew that there was a very good reason why, after exposing and developing thousands of films (literally) I jumped to digital with a loud "hooray"!
