Frame / Mitre clamps

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Scott
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May fit better here than in equipment....

This post is brought to you by the letters "prints arriving damaged = buy a big printer" and "well if I'm printing, I might as well try mounting" and the number 42

I'm looking to "try" framing, having had enough of getting damaged / wrong frames in the post. I've bought a nice Bosch mitre saw (needed it for chopping wood anyway) and got some nice wide, curved framing wood which had given me a nicely mitre cut frame.

I now need to clamp it so I can glue / staple. I'm potentially framing bigger than A1 - last pano I printed for someone was 120cm ( x 30).

Anyone got any recommendations for clamps??
 
As it happens I am going to re-start framing. I already own a mount cutter., but I've always used bought frames in the past.
Today, as a cheap start I purchased on of these.
It will take me a few weeks to get going as my mount cutter is still in store (we moved earlier this year) and Covid has made the move tortuous.
 
Just a thought.
Kitchen fitters and joiners use 'Mitre Mate' or similar from Howdens/Screwfix etc.
It is almost impossible to break the joint. We use it for pelmets and so on instead of nails.
It's normally a 10 second hold and then it's set.
 
I make my own frames and have a pretty comprehensive set up. I use a Cassese underpinner, which is a press that pushes v nails into the underside of the frame. Along with wood glue (Titebond III) it makes a strong joint. I also use band clamps (Bessey and a few Stanley ones) to keep everything tight until the glue goes off. If you have space an underpinner is definitely the tool to use..... Logan make a tabletop pinner, which is supposed to be okay. Framing equipment is quite pricey but will save you a fortune in the long run if you have a need to frame work often.
 
For clamping lightweight frames these work quite well:

.

Never used an underpinner. Second the use of Titebond. Mitre Mate is useful stuff but it's unforgiving if everything isn't perfectly aligned, and a sod to get off if you need to redo the joint for any reason.

For strength and visual interest, I cut slots in the corners and glue in splines of a different species wood, but getting into different territory.
 
For clamping lightweight frames these work quite well:

.

Never used an underpinner. Second the use of Titebond. Mitre Mate is useful stuff but it's unforgiving if everything isn't perfectly aligned, and a sod to get off if you need to redo the joint for any reason.

For strength and visual interest, I cut slots in the corners and glue in splines of a different species wood, but getting into different territory.

I did put one of those clamps in my basket with Axminster, and then realised it doesn't do big enough frames :/

Was it you who did a post on Framing last year @Phaedrus? I did see one where someone had used their own wood and glued in splines - well beyond my level of ability right now I'm afraid! The fact I'm getting a clean 45 degree cut from a brand new mitre saw is an achievement for me! :ROFLMAO: But was that statement more an "I never use an underpinner because I do it differently" or was it more an "NEVER USE AN UNDERPINNER THEY'LL RUIN IT ALL!"?
 
It wasn't me who posted before. I keep a low profile.

I've never used an underpinner because I haven't got one. I use a tablesaw. Could use a biscuit jointer.

What size frames are you planning to make? As you'll know, the Veritas clamp goes up to 585mm square; if you're going much bigger than that I'd consider using something in addition to just glue on the corners.
 
my first frame is 850 x 350 so way out of the range of the veritas clamp :( Looked ideal too! but I tend to do a fair number of large prints and panos, which will take me outside of those dimensions routinely. I guess that's where the underpinner comes in - suspect it's made my decision for me to a large extent!
 
think it'll be something I could move on to if I get into framing in a meaningful way - baby steps at the moment, especially given my woodworking ability! :ROFLMAO:
 
The only problem with the Kreg pocket hole jig is that the holes for the fixings will be visible on the outside of the frame and will need to be plugged and filled. I agree, they are brilliant for other sorts of joinery, I've just used the more basic one for making some built-in shelving and the joint is very strong.

@James Blonde - the Charnwood pinner looks very much like the Logan one... great price too.

For clamping, I would highly recommend - Stanley Clamps

Or better still - Bessey Clamp
 
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As it happens I am going to re-start framing. I already own a mount cutter., but I've always used bought frames in the past.
Today, as a cheap start I purchased on of these.
It will take me a few weeks to get going as my mount cutter is still in store (we moved earlier this year) and Covid has made the move tortuous.
I recently built some speaker cabinets using the same clamps, and will be making some frames soon too.
Just a thought.
Kitchen fitters and joiners use 'Mitre Mate' or similar from Howdens/Screwfix etc.
It is almost impossible to break the joint. We use it for pelmets and so on instead of nails.
It's normally a 10 second hold and then it's set.
..and I was going to suggest the same thing, but not surprised that you mentioned it given your work skills. Excellent product !
 
Mitre Mate may be unforgiving (yep, it is) but that shouldn't be a problem if you do it right :)
How many times does one redo frames?
I suspect that nails are a bugger to redo too.
 
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