I went with a friend who has been a few times and he recommended we do the tour. It wasn't cheap and I probably wouldn't have booked one without his recommendation - that would have been a BIG mistake!
We booked a morning and afternoon tour and got sunrise and sunset. The costs was $250 each for the day but it was well worth the cost. The guides take you to places you can't access on your own (you only get to see a tiny part of the area on the public tracks) and they know all the best photo spots. Make sure you pre-book with an official firm, there are some guys there who offer to take you round for cash but you may well end up getting ripped off from the tales i was told by some people who used them. We booked through Phillps' Photography Tours and did the Sunrise Tour together with Mystery Valley Sunset tour. They were superb and my friend always uses them. Don't expect luxury transport but you will have an amazing experience
If you want somewhere different to stay the I really recommend the View Hotel - they have some amazing lodges. This was the view from our lodge:
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Dave Proctor, on Flickr