High-end bridge cameras: Sony RX10, Panasonic FZ1000 etc

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Andrew
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I was out today operating with the following settings for the first time - using P mode, with ISO on auto. (range 100 to 800)

The conditions were quite bright, so occasionally I was making adjustments with the exposure adjustment control.

I was shooting Single Shot, definitely not multi etc.

Initially shots were normal as would be expected, then later on on numerous occasions I was getting like a motor drive of multiple shots, then it came up processing which took at a guess 7 or 8 seconds and produced one image. Then later when it got cloudier it reverted to normal shooting.

Any ideas anyone ?
 
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Andrew
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If I'm correct they can only be changed by menus so the answer is definitely no that I can see, as the odds of switching an option on then off, whilst having the camera in standby or useage I would have thought very long odds. The first time it happened I called up the onscreen live view options and went through them and all seemed ok. Not going out today so am going to see if can recreate situation in the garden. Also going to look at the EXIF info today to see if there are any clues and how the offending instances ended up
 
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As an update checking the EXIF information, early on in the session it started as Multi Segment meter mode, and later for some reason changed to Centre Weighted meter mode although I didnt knowingly change anything.

However in the latter mode when I did have what seemed multi exposure, I knew some of the shots where it ran like that, but I also knew certain shots where it ran as single so am totally confused as to what has happened.

All ISOs rate as ISO 200 as it was so bright. Exposre program read as Normal.

Think I will drop a line to Sony support to see if they have any ideas
 
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dibbly dobbler
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Mike
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wow no matter what I try I cannot get them this sharp, how close did you manage to get before it flew away Mike ? What PP did you apply to the cropped image ?
Thanks :)

I was quite close - maybe 3-4 meters I guess. A lot of luck is involved and there are many many failures I can assure you! Main thing I find is keeping a fast shutter is essential especially for the little birds - 1/1000 as a minimum - so you really need good light otherwise the iso gets unusably high.Other than that just the obvious stuff like getting nice and close, keeping yourself steady and ideally the sun at your back.

I didn’t do a lot of pp - just a wee bit of dehaze to the body of the bird to make it pop. I don’t tend to add much sharpening

Keep at it and you’ll get there I’m sure!

Cheers
 
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Thanks for that Mike, I have been trying to get my shutter speeds higher recently but have been using P mode, tempted to go back to Shutter mode on the camera. Do you put whiskey in the water for the birds, can get nowhere near as close down here :cool:

Always interested to hear about PP on photos, I too use dehaze and noise reduction as I find sharpening isnt worth the effort usually - I use RAW / Topaz. I prefer the images I get when using the 600mm max lens length and RAW, as opposed to the longer lens length which has to use JPG. I still open JPGs in the RAW interface but tey obviously don't have the full depth that RAW does.
 
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dibbly dobbler
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2,065
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Mike
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Thanks for that Mike, I have been trying to get my shutter speeds higher recently but have been using P mode, tempted to go back to Shutter mode on the camera. Do you put whiskey in the water for the birds, can get nowhere near as close down here :cool:

Always interested to hear about PP on photos, I too use dehaze and noise reduction as I find sharpening isnt worth the effort usually - I use RAW / Topaz. I prefer the images I get when using the 600mm max lens length and RAW, as opposed to the longer lens length which has to use JPG. I still open JPGs in the RAW interface but tey obviously don't have the full depth that RAW does.
Makes sense - I stick to Aperture mode but with auto iso set to either 1/500 or 1/1000 minimum shutter depending on subject and conditions. I usually edit the RAW file also. Cheers
 
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