How to focus on eyes

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I was wonderng, how do people get their subjects eyes bang on focus when using f/1.8? If the eyes fall naturally on a focus point then ok fine, but what do you do if the eyes aren't on a focus point? My 400d has 9 af points. Do people have to re-compose the shot or is there another way around this?
 
Centre (single) point focus and recompose
 
Change the focus point until it does and/ or move the camera.
 
why centre point? that's a bit rubbish surely, what if i don't want my subject right in the middle
 
Center point and recompose. Ie half press shutter button whilst center point on eyes - it will focus and lock, then recompose accordingly to suit framing - then push all way to fire shutter.

Edit: must not be in continuous focus AF mode.
 
^Yes, I've been doing it for years with compacts, comes like second nature... no piece of kit is perfect
 
I would use the nearest focus point and recompose, not necessarily the centre point, so to minimise the chance of losing focus when you recompose at such a shallow DOF.
 
why centre point? that's a bit rubbish surely, what if i don't want my subject right in the middle

Which is why you recompose so that your subject is not in the centre, holding down the button half depressed.

Of course you can use any other point you want to, it's just that you have to constantly change the point for different shots. By using centre point, you always know which one you have set it on. A matter of convenience really, so please don't hit me.........:D
 
From what I remember it is the center AF point that is the most accurate?

/Prepares to be shot down
 
Isn't there a danger with this method that if you have a shallow dof then when you recompose the focus may be slightly out? Especially if the subjects head is turned , you could be as far as a cm or so out - Surely that's enough to break the shot, especially if you're fairly close.

Then with a 1.4 or 1.2, you'd still say focus lock and recompose? I'm sure then you'd 100% lose the correct focus.
 
I use 51pt 3D on the D3 - focus point on eyes then move camera to re-compose and the focus point stays on the eyes - magic! :)
 
Then with a 1.4 or 1.2, you'd still say focus lock and recompose? I'm sure then you'd 100% lose the correct focus.

Deffo not with these fellows. Above is a good way with a kit lens for general use.

On 1.2 I would probably use manual tbh.
 
Centre (single) point focus and recompose

Ditto. Life is too short to faff around with different focus points (exception: tracking focus on a moving subject).

Another problem is that with default settings on modern SLR's the shutter button both defines exposure and focus. That's great if what you are focussing on happens to be 18% grey card, otherwise its rubbish.

Generally the ergonomics of modern Nikons and Canons is very badly thought through IMHO.

One option is to use the AEL button and disable the shutter button for determining exposure, but that's not great if exposure is constantly changing, and rather a slow cumbersome way to operate.

With Nikon, the only reasonable way I found was to disable AF on the shutter button and to use only the AF button on the rear of the camera. That way you can use the shutter button to determine exposure and the AF button to focus. It takes a little getting used to, but is an extremely fast and accurate way of working if you want to maintain close control of focus and exposure without it slowing you down.
 
From what I remember it is the center AF point that is the most accurate?

/Prepares to be shot down

^^^ Vaguely remember something to that effect... I thought that the central AF point is a cross type - i.e. it picks up OOF information in horizontal and vertical planes, whereas the other AF points are single plane ones. Again, i'm also readying my parachute :lol:
 
go at least for one eye...the one 'closest' to you
then the chances of the other being sharpish are better...dof rules
 
Centre focus point & refocus is fine... IF you can GUARANTEE to not move your plane of focus while you recompose - which, generally speaking, you can't :(

So, either assign a different focus point to the eye in question when you have already recomposed, or as I do (lazy sod that I am) lock focus on the eye in question, recompose, then move your body & hence camera in or out slightly (you have to figure out which is best, in or out) and shoot 5+ images as you do so - this poor practise saves loads of time & hassle on a Wedding shoot :) - but needs a steady finger on the delete button :lol:

DD
 
why centre point? that's a bit rubbish surely, what if i don't want my subject right in the middle

If you are going to ask a question I would suggest you show a bit more courtesy when people take the time to reply.
 
Some road rage creeping into the forums i think.:shrug:
 
using centre point to focus for portraits I'm certain is the single reason that so many portraits have the eyes in the middle of the frame and acres of space above the head.
 
I only have a D40x at the moment - D700 on the way - so I am pretty much stuck with centre point focus lock, re-compose. Can be a bit hit and miss, but your're not wasting any film so just keep clicking...

or - why not treat yourself to a Hasselblad HD4 with..wait for it..."absolute position lock” Tracks the geometry of the focus & recompose move (using accelerometers I guess) and adjusts the focus position accordingly! Genius...! But I'd have to sell my house :-)
 
Ditto. Life is too short to faff around with different focus points (exception: tracking focus on a moving subject).

Another problem is that with default settings on modern SLR's the shutter button both defines exposure and focus. That's great if what you are focussing on happens to be 18% grey card, otherwise its rubbish.

Generally the ergonomics of modern Nikons and Canons is very badly thought through IMHO.

One option is to use the AEL button and disable the shutter button for determining exposure, but that's not great if exposure is constantly changing, and rather a slow cumbersome way to operate.

With Nikon, the only reasonable way I found was to disable AF on the shutter button and to use only the AF button on the rear of the camera. That way you can use the shutter button to determine exposure and the AF button to focus. It takes a little getting used to, but is an extremely fast and accurate way of working if you want to maintain close control of focus and exposure without it slowing you down.


What he said....mostly......:D
 
I'm really surprised to read so many people reccomending focus using centre and recompose. Especially since the OP asked about 1.8 aperture.

As some others have said you'd miss the focus almost every time doing this unless they were literally face on or when you recompose you are just side stepping rather than twisting or changing angle. The dof at 1.8 is so shallow that this method results in oof eyes. I know cos I used to do it and all the shots since i've used point focus by actually moing the point have resulted in massive improvements.

My rec to the OP is to use point focus and change the point each time.
 
I suppose it depends on the subject really. A posed portrait would give you time to swap the focus point, or even just do it manually. Then again, such shallow depth of field is going to be a nightmare on all but stationary subjects anyway. Personally, I would use manual focus. With the aperture closed down a bit to at least f2.8, back button af at centrepoint and recompose seems to be the best balance of speed and accuracy for me.

Andy
 
If you are going to ask a question I would suggest you show a bit more courtesy when people take the time to reply.


OOOOOOOOOO Colin, you look different when you are stern. :lol:
 
I'm really surprised to read so many people reccomending focus using centre and recompose.

For a reasonably close portrait, as I move the camera after focussing, I also try to move my head back slightly to compensate for the swinging of the focal plane. I don't think I do it consciously any more, it's an engrained habit. I'm using a f1.4 50mm, so not much room for error. They normally come out focussed in the right place! Before this one I had the same lens in MF, and the thought of pushing focal points around wasn't an option.

There are other potential problems - how do you know that the AF has focussed on the actual eye rather than , say, the bone surrounding it? The autofocus points are a little vague as to exactly how wide the AF area within each focussing spot is.

If the subject is further away, like in a big room, the shift in focal plane is physically larger and head movement won't cut it, I would probably focus on something the same distance away as the subject in the middle of the frame rather than the subject itself, even a patch on the carpet can do. I tend to do this anyway, since otherwise the subject knows well in advance you're going to take a photo...

In practise, the pics normally come out nice and sharp in the right place, assuming no camera shake etc.
 
wow thanks for all the VERY USEFUL replies. EVEN the first response, which i totally misunderstood :bonk:

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Originally Posted by bomberman View Post
why centre point? that's a bit rubbish surely, what if i don't want my subject right in the middle
If you are going to ask a question I would suggest you show a bit more courtesy when people take the time to reply.

There was no malice meant in my answer. It probably didn't help that i misunderstood what he was talking about. I've shown nothing but good manners on this forum and i only used the words "a bit rubbish" to prompt further discussion.
 
wow thanks for all the VERY USEFUL replies. EVEN the first response, which i totally misunderstood :bonk:



There was no malice meant in my answer. It probably didn't help that i misunderstood what he was talking about. I've shown nothing but good manners on this forum and i only used the words "a bit rubbish" to prompt further discussion.

Don't take it to heart, I think the mods are a little grumpy this Friday evening.

It's all good
 
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