I Can't Wait!!

twhite87

twhite87

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Tim
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I'm so excited!!! My film developing kit turned up today. So excited. Really tempted to just shoot anything and 'waste' the film just so I can start playing!

Anyone got any tips of pearls of wisdom before I have a go with my first roll?
 
Great that enthusiasm for film is returning.

First gem is to practice loading the film with an old reel and spool in the light.

If its a Paterson Kit then getting the film going onto the spool in the dark was always the tricky bit. Also check you have properly blacked out the room by standing in it for 5 minutes to check it is properly sealed, and putting a big notice on the door to stop anyone bursting in at a critical moment.

Other than reading and memorising all the procedures.....Good Luck.
 
Take your time when your hands are in the changing bag. It can get hot in there and you don't want to get sweaty hands when handling film. I find that feeding the leader of the roll into the spiral outside the bag works well, that bit of film has already been exposed when you load the camera so it's easier and the spiral should hold it in place while you get your hands into the bag.

And remember to put your scissors in the bag!
 
My only tip is for B&W developing and that's don't get yourself too worked up about exact temperature. Get it to around 22 degrees (balance hot/cold water from the tap to get the temperature then fill a jug) and then pour your water into the three measuring cylinders for Dev/Stop/Fix. After that just sit them in the room you're developing in. Also, write Dev/Stop/Fix on each cylinder in sharpy so you don't get them mixed up :0)

Other than that, good luck and enjoy the witchcraft of pulling out a roll of film with images in it!
 
Strappy said:
Take your time when your hands are in the changing bag. It can get hot in there and you don't want to get sweaty hands when handling film. I find that feeding the leader of the roll into the spiral outside the bag works well, that bit of film has already been exposed when you load the camera so it's easier and the spiral should hold it in place while you get your hands into the bag.

And remember to put your scissors in the bag!
Click to expand...

I suffer from that one and sometimes I put one of those freezer blocks that you put in cool boxes in the changing bag to keep cool. I often load one at a time too.

Check you have everything, I once forgot to put Patterson tank lid in the bag. I had to invert the tank to keep the light out before unzipping the bag!

Mark
 
You're using 120? If you spoil a film, then don't throw it away. Keep it in the backing paper and use it for reeling practice in light. I personally use a film changing bag - I know its not the perfect solution, but it works for me. As already said - wash your hands, keep cool if it goes wrong. I carefully roll the paper first, feeling for the start of the film, then roll the paper and film apart. Tear the tape, then feed the rolled film onto the Paterson spool. I avoid touching the inside and also the edges. A tiny bit of sweat on film edges can make some films on some reels stop. Try not to buckle the film if it does jam. It will damage and appear as crescents across the images. Either start again, or if it is a Paterson type, try finishing it off by tiny little shuffles of the reels until it completes loading on.

I use a large bucket for rinse water, and I place my chems in bottles in it first, to correct overall temp. Totally agree on not being too worried if the temp is not exact. C41 is fussy, but b/w process is quite tolerant. I aim for 18.5 C to 21 C. I confess, I've successfully developed without a thermometer.

Important parts are develop, fix, and rinse. Keep your chems well labelled and stored. B/W processing at home becomes very cheap once you've mastered that.

If you process in a bathroom, then hanging films to dry works really well and dust free, if the bath or shower have recently been used. Dampens down the dust in the room.
 
I always feel guilty about not listing the orrible hoolies that will in all likely hood befall the enthusiastic beginner....:D

but, its how we learn, I learnt a multitude of ways to fux things up, some common and some hitherto undocumented, but I feel it was a richer experience for it......rofl...:ROFLMAO:
 
If you realise after unrolling a film that you forgot to put the spool in the changing bag, don't panic. Lock the film(s) inside the tank, and then you can unzip the bag and put the spool in.

Never done this myself, obviously. A, uh, friend told me about it.
 
Thanks Guys. This is quite possibly the longest week I've ever experienced. Weekend cannot come quickly enough!!
 
It is a magical moment when you give the films that final wash and take a quick peek at the roll and there are actually images on the film... wonderful. Looking forward to seeing the results.

I've got 5 rolls waiting to develop, hopefully get some done tonight and the rest tomorrow, not my first time and I'm still excited by the process.

Andy
 
This may have been asked on previous threads, but is there anything stopping you mixing the developer, stop, and fixer in bulk if you know you're going to be developing a lot of film?
 
I'm also looking for a bit of an idiots guide if anyone can point me in the right direction. I've read instructions and things, but would just like something I can follow in the darkroom should I get myself mixed up.
 
As for me re: b/w process.

Developer. I use mainly ID11 / D76. With both, I have to mix a stock (powder into water) at higher temperature in advance. The stock lasts up to six months. In ID11 I buy enough to make 5 litres.

Developer

On using some ID11 / D76 stock, I'll usually dilute it further at 1:1 stock to water, or sometimes pure stock, or diluted down to 1:3 with water. I use it as one shot, so in the case of 120, I'll mix for example 1:1 = 250ml ID11 stock, and 250mm water.

Sometimes I alternatively use Rodinal/R09 developer - just a squirt into 500ml water as directed.

In any of the above cases - one shot - then chuck away. Still, a 5 litre of ID11 lasts me well enough. At 1:1 it develops 20 120 films. Many films, will develop with a dilution of 1:3 albeit with extended times. Even more films if you have time and are prudent. At 1:3 that develops 40 120 films! Remember though - squeezing air out, shelf life is recommended 6 months.

Stop / Fix

I invested in collapsible 1 litre bottles. I make one litre of either. Squeeze the air out. The stop is more rugged, but I give the film a quick rinse of water either side of the stop to keep my chems clean. With both Stop and Fix, I pour a half of the 1 litre stock into a 120 loaded Paterson tank. After using Stop and then the Fix, I pour the 500 ml back into the 1 litre bottles - mark the bottles well, do not put it back in the wrong bottle. A 1 litre bottle of fixer lasts maybe something like 15 - 25 films? Stop at least equally as well.

Wetting Agent

A squirt into water - one shot. Just a little squirt. Make it last. I have used Fairy liquid, but prefer proper stuff.

That is how I do it. But I've only been processing film for a few years (albeit a lot!).
 
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Where do you get those collapsible bottles?
 
Well, I'm in the same position as you and couldn't wait to get developing. Tried my first one the other day and it was very disappointing. I tried cross processing c41 in rodinal 1:100 for one hour but I got the temperature all wrong and it was awful BUT I'm not giving in. So second attempt, same scenario but I didn't realise that the spiral was sitting too high in the tank and I didn't use enough liquid so the whole film looks like one panorama shot of rolling hills in silhouette!!! Third time lucky! I'll try again this weekend. I will not be defeated (although I might just get a couple processed at tesco as well) ;-)
 
Jon Kincaid said:
Well, I'm in the same position as you and couldn't wait to get developing. Tried my first one the other day and it was very disappointing. I tried cross processing c41 in rodinal 1:100 for one hour but I got the temperature all wrong and it was awful BUT I'm not giving in. So second attempt, same scenario but I didn't realise that the spiral was sitting too high in the tank and I didn't use enough liquid so the whole film looks like one panorama shot of rolling hills in silhouette!!! Third time lucky! I'll try again this weekend. I will not be defeated (although I might just get a couple processed at tesco as well) ;-)
Click to expand...

Great attitude. Keep going. It will be worth it.
 
Jon Kincaid said:
Well, I'm in the same position as you and couldn't wait to get developing. Tried my first one the other day and it was very disappointing. I tried cross processing c41 in rodinal 1:100 for one hour but I got the temperature all wrong and it was awful BUT I'm not giving in. So second attempt, same scenario but I didn't realise that the spiral was sitting too high in the tank and I didn't use enough liquid so the whole film looks like one panorama shot of rolling hills in silhouette!!! Third time lucky! I'll try again this weekend. I will not be defeated (although I might just get a couple processed at tesco as well) ;-)
Click to expand...


You've done proper b&w before yeah? It's c41 films don't respond that well to b&w chemicals.
 
Yes, WHS ^^^, I would personally start off with traditional b&w film processed in b&w chems, just till I'd got a few under my belt. But, horses for courses and whatever floats your goat etc. (y)

Andy
 
steveo_mcg said:
You've done proper b&w before yeah? It's c41 films don't respond that well to b&w chemicals.
Click to expand...
No, I only have colour film, lots of it old stuff from a couple of bagfulls of cameras I was given. I know you're not going to get really crisp images xpro'ing c41 in rodinal but I can practise and hone a technique and see what I can get, I've nothing to lose. Having another go this weekend :-)
 
Biggest tip I can give - if using a changing bag is to remember this. Getting the film onto the spool can be very frustrating at first - just remember that if you get all wound up and feel like just pulling your hands out and sod it (like I did with my first roll - ruining it) - then just pop the film as it is into the dev tank - screw the lid on - and take your hands out. Have a brew - calm down - and try again :)
 
-Oy- said:
Biggest tip I can give - if using a changing bag is to remember this. Getting the film onto the spool can be very frustrating at first - just remember that if you get all wound up and feel like just pulling your hands out and sod it (like I did with my first roll - ruining it) - then just pop the film as it is into the dev tank - screw the lid on - and take your hands out. Have a brew - calm down - and try again :)
Click to expand...
Nice idea , wouldn't have thought of that. Any other pro tips for us noobs would be gratefully received.

;-)
 
Jon Kincaid said:
No, I only have colour film, lots of it old stuff from a couple of bagfulls of cameras I was given. I know you're not going to get really crisp images xpro'ing c41 in rodinal but I can practise and hone a technique and see what I can get, I've nothing to lose. Having another go this weekend :)
Click to expand...


Cool, as long as you know what your in for.
 
Practise loading film in daylight 10 20 30 times then again with your eyes closed, Practise Practise Practice
 
Discipline yourself ritually NOT to throw away your stop or fixer as though they are one shot. Nor to mix up their bottles. Being a chaotic kind of person, I made every kind of mistake in the first 30 or so films.

Mistakes that I made:
  • Throwing away good fix or stop solutions. As though it were one shot like the developer.
  • Putting C41 bleach into my lovely expensive C41 fix.
  • Not putting enough developer solution into my tank - underdeveloped all along one side.
  • Crescent marks from rough handling/loading
  • Loading 120 film back to front in a camera - exposing the paper backing instead of the film.
  • Transferring a film from a 120 spindle to a 620 to use in a 620 Kodak, but somehow managing to transfer it back to the 120 spindle.
  • Smartphones. I know there are developing apps - but smartphones do not operate with wet conditions. I now use a Poundland or 99p stopwatch and hang it around my neck.
  • Washing my electronic infra red thermometer under the tap as though it was a jug or stirrer.
  • I'm sure there were more.
 
Can you pre mix a load of dev/stop/fix in large bottles and keep them, or will they go off rapidly?
 
Stop and fix keep fine, fix can be used to exhaustion which is easily checked, have a search for fixer testing. I don't know about life expectancy for stop.

Rodinal should only be mixed just prior to use.
 
Stop usually has a marker dye in it and will turn purple once its exhausted. I normally change mine every couple of months unless it's gone sooner.

Fix depends on which one you have - I used to use a standard Ilford fix and it lasted well, I changed to Ilford Rapid Fix and found that tends to go off in a couple of weeks. I've got a new bottle of something called EcoFix that I bought with my last order from maco to try next. As Steve says, it's easy to test, drop the piece of leader that you cut off the film into a little tub of fixer and time how long it takes to go clear. If that goes over a couple of minutes, bin the fixer and mix up a new batch.

Developer really depends on what you're using. Rodinal and Ilfosol 3, for example, are one-shot developers so mix them as you need them and pour away each time. I've also got some XTOL to use, with that you mix up 5l of developer that will keep for a few months. The data sheet for the developer should tell you what's what with your developer.
 
Thanks guys. Can't wait to move into the new house and have a go at developing. Going to try and set up a darkroom in the loft.
 
so i bought a dev kit off someone here, didnt come with bottles but 3 jugs, should i get a extra. couple of bottles to store fixer and stop?, or can i use soft drink bottles?
 
Supermarket 2 pint milk bottles. Most times, if you squeeze the sides until all the air is gone, you can then tighten the cap and the air won't get back in. This works like a concertina bottle, except that you need to keep the bottle in the dark for best results. You can usually squeeze out about a third of the 2 pint volume.
 
1 litre kilner bottles from Denholm Elliot... er Dilhelm Mills... or summink. I think they were £2.99 each.
 
So I've tried again this weekend and had much more success. I've processed about 7 films and was really excited when I held the first film up to the light and could see images - that was me hooked. It's bizarre that the images look clear as a bell on the negative but are a right mess when scanned! I have an epson precision 1670 so I guess the combination of c41 in rodinal with a poor scanner is bound to mean that they have their limitations! Oh yeah and the composition, exposure, overall lack of experience etc etc etc [emoji1]
 
After a lot of fun rodinal processing over the weekend , I have a few queries if anyone can help.

What happens if the fixer is spent and how would I know? What effect will it have on the negs? If I make up 500mm of 1:4 rapid fix (cheap firstcall) how many 35mm films can I expect it to fix, roughly?

Do I have to dispose of the spent fixer in any special way?

When washing the film at the end, do you have to be gentle? Can the method of washing have a bearing on the negs?

Im sure there are more questions buf it's getting late!

Jon
 
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