InsTLR Project

Rather than uneven development, it appears to be a light leak on both test shots I've taken. The leak is exactly the same shape on both so is either caused by the slot where the film ejects (a possibility because my donor cam was missing the sprung door on the eject slot although the slot looks pretty light tight anyway), or I've caused the leak when I've been messing with the film pack during the build which is also pretty likely!

I'm going to shoot the next image completely in the dark then process it. I'm hoping the light leak is still visible which means it's already on the film.
 
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Can anyone that shoots Instax let me know if they generally underexpose (on those cameras that give the option) or shoot at 'box' speed. I believe Instax mini is iso800 but the test shots so far look a bit overexposed.
 
Thanks Matt. I've ordered another pack of film today because I'm pretty sure I've exposed it to light while doing the test fits which will affect the films. Once I've bonded the Instax part to the TLR back and sealed it all I'll test again.
 
I'm getting closer to something resembling an image although my film is definitely fogged as I've just mummified the camera/back in black tape before shooting the last image and still got leaks!

I also realised today that the focal plane was a mile off because even though the underside of the Instax film tray was sitting flush to the TLR film plane, the Instax film actually sits around 3-4mm back from that [emoji17]. I've just spent a bit of time 'persuading' the film tray so the front face of the film cartridge sits flush with the film plane. I think the focus will still be off slightly but I'm going to have to embrace the Instax methodology!

1) From first image to today;

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2) My most successful image yet;

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Well, it's attached now so no going back!

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I've bonded the Instax back to the TLR back using hot melt glue so it dries quickly to keep it in place. I sprayed the Instax pieces Matt black before bonding them so they match up better. I've also heated the top of the 3D printed back slightly so I could shape it to match the Instax back. Whilst it's not perfectly flat anymore, it sits more flush with the Instax tray to block stray light which is more important!

I was planning to cover it all in black leather but due to me not being 100% sure on the focal plane still I'm not sure if i'll bother.

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I've got another pack of film on the way so I can give it a proper test with good film so I'll leave the camera as it is for now.
 
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I've tidied up the base of the camera where the film ejects and have started to paint a few places black to match the rest.

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(Yes, I was too lazy to actually fill/smooth the original plate from the Instax camera so I've covered it instead!)

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Not the tidiest job I've ever done but it should look ok once everything is painted to match!
 
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Anothee wesome job Steve I'm surprised the boys from Lomo haven't been in touch.
 
Good job, pretty good results without any lens adjustment, next project to make an adjustable focus lens, 2 positions Film and Instant:)
 
Yas***ax or Intstica? Stupid swear filter :LOL:
 
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dizidav said:
Good job, pretty good results without any lens adjustment, next project to make an adjustable focus lens, 2 positions Film and Instant:)
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Sounds like a plan! :D
 
I'm going to raise the ground glass slightly to match the new film plane because there's no way to adjust the lens position. Looking at the test shots it's front focussing by a few feet so I won't get infinity but should be able to shoot portraits with compensation.
 
Thanks, I wasn't sure it would work either! There are surprisingly few tear down articles online for mid-90's Instax cameras so I had to hope it would actually fit within the sides of the TLR.
 
No way to rework it moving the film plane forward, Steve?
 
I need to look into the lens again but I'd need to move it further back into the body by 1-2mm to account for the Instax cartridge. Might be easiest to learn how much to compensate for it and use it for closer portraits only.
 
stevelmx5 said:
I've just a message from a guy in Texas asking how much it would cost for me to make one to fit his Rolleiflex if he sends it to me so I can measure it!
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Just ask him to assassinate DT. :banana:
 
Ok, looks like if I can raise the ground glass by around 4mm I should be able to get proper focus although I'll lose infinity. I don't think I'd be using Instax for any big landscapes anyway so I'm not too bothered about that.

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The light leak down the right hand side was caused by me removing the film cartridge so I could see if I can get any adjustment on the rear lens element.

Unfortunately, at some point in its life someone removed the wlf from my Yashica and obviously mis-placed the screws because it's been glued on with what looks like evo stick! It's never been an issue for me until now so time to get a scalpel out..
 
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Phew, I've still got all 10 fingers!

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Turns out they didn't mis-place the screws, just managed to sheer off all four of them! I'll figure out a new way to attach the wlf in a bit. The ground glass is attached directly to the wlf unit which makes it a little bit easier to move around.

I've just fitted two cardboard shims on the wlf to raise it slightly and shot another image but this time trusted the focussed image on the screen. Looking at the image developing I think it's still front focussing slightly so will need to fit thicker shims. At least with instant film I can see the effect within a few minutes instead of using up an entire roll of film then waiting for it to develop!

While I'm waiting I'll clean up the mirror seeing as it's got 30 years of crud on it.
 
Looks like 2 cardboard shims gives me better focus (4mm thickness);

Third image along

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I'll draw up a solid plastic shim so it's flat and then will replace the original screws/evo stick with a couple of knurled knobs so I can loosen the wlf and fit the shim when I want to shoot instax. I'll do some testing to find out the overall effect on the focal range but I imagine it's going to be pretty close focus now.
 
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What you need to do now is print a base and make the WLF removeable like the later Rollies, with spacers to suit Film and Instax.(y)
 
Do you mean like this one I've just finished drawing :0)

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There's a lip to keep the wlf secured to the top of the body when shooting 120 then a slot that the wlf can be put into that's 4mm higher for shooting Instax. I'll print it out once the current job has finished and see if I've got my measurements correct!
 
Looks like just the ticket, a really good solution to the problem:)
 
Then after all the exposure,:) the next thing will be the production version???
 
So long as people only want the version for the Yashica 635 it would be ok :0). I'll bring it along to the Peaks meet to test on some other TLRs but I don't reckon they're a standard size.
 
The 635/Mat/EM/124, share a lot of common parts, you can change the lens panel and lenses, WLF will fit, I havnt tried a 635 back on a Mat but they look about the same size, dont have my 635 any longer so cant check that one.
 
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