If you are new to photography use RAW, it has more detail than jpegs should you need to do a lot of PP, if you are new, then you will need to do PP until you start to get a better grasp of how everything works..
Jpegs have many uses as well, the RAW only disciples sometimes fail to realise that.
Initially, shoot RAW though.
I'd say it's the other way around, without work raw looks flat and dull, JPG looks much better straight out of camera so for a beginner it makes sense to do that and concentrate on taking pictures.
Anyway, read the link an decide for yourself.
Heres to the first of 2012So why did you not explain a little more in your first reply to the OP :shrug:
Once an image is compressed to JPEG your pretty screwed in regards to any serious photo post processing and you've already lost tons of pixel quality and important image information.
Jpeg is fine for the novice hobby happy snapper, but for serious post pro Photographer then RAW is the way to go.
Getting it right in the camera is a bit of a myth, even pros don't get right in the camera most times, you can get close in the camera, but never perfect .
the big question, to shoot jpeg or in raw. I am new to dslr photography and am interested in which way to go.It seems to me raw is a lot of hasel for only a little more benefit albeit better but is it worth it
What dose everyone else think?
Edit: A JPEG is a methematical compression. It reduces file sizes, but doesn't lose a single pixel. For example, if you have an area of plain tone, like a sky for example, you can either write that as 01010101 four million times, or 01x4m. That's how it works with a Fine quality JPEG, simply locking groups of common tones together mathematically.
Fractals n'est pas?
I shoot raw simply because with my camera it gives me so much headroom that I don't really need to use filters, I can do it in PP.
Funnily enough, the more I shoot the more I am shooting in JPG because I recognise the situations where raw won't really help so I have set up some in camera profiles to get what I want without any extra effort.
FirebrandNIRE said:In my experience Jpeg images are all too often too flat.
And, having sung the praises of JPEG, I'll happily admit that I shoot Raw now too (and JPEG). I used to shoot JPEG only, but that was when (not so long ago) a 1Gb memory card was £100.
Another big change for me was Lightroom, which is such an easy programme to work using Raw - I never got on with Photoshop, or any other previous PP software, that seemed like a lot of effort for very little benefit.
I've since reworked a lot of old JPEG images in Lightroom, so I know how much you can do - and it's quite a lot. Lighten, darken and correcting colour balance is easy. But you can't work on any data that the JPEG has deleted, and the most noticeable thing I find there is over-exposed skies that can get completely clipped when it hits the JPEG ceiling. Even if there's only a tiny bit of detail there, you can rescue it from the Raw. Ditto things like shiny cheeks and foreheads. It's not enough to make a slik purse so to speak, but every little helps when you're after that last little bit of quality.
Nonsense.
You can do far more with a JPEG in PP than most people think without any noticeable loss of quality. What kills quality is saving and resaving every time you change anything which compounds the compression, but doing it once or twice on a fine quality JPEG is virtually invisible. And if you get things right in camera in the first place, you shouldn't need to do much anyway.
You can get it 100% right in camera, and many professionals shoot nothing else. They haven't got time for post processing, and neither have the publications they work for. Wait for the Olympics - that will all be shot straight to JPEG.
Edit: A JPEG is a methematical compression. It reduces file sizes, but doesn't lose a single pixel. For example, if you have an area of plain tone, like a sky for example, you can either write that as 01010101 four million times, or 01x4m. That's how it works with a Fine quality JPEG, simply locking groups of common tones together mathematically.
Really?![]()
dont blow the highlights in the first place, job done
"save as" the JPEG and you always have a master copy, job done again

It is all too easy to shout that from the rooftops but imo it dont happen like that in real life. As with Hoppyuk stating that you can get it 100% right in camera
That will always be the case with controlled lighting in a studio or outside with lighting stands reflectors etc, but try doing it with birds or wildlife. You can be in a situation where you have your subject in the frame, it might still be sat there 2 minutes later it might be gone 3 seconds later :shrug: An overhead branch moving in the wind or a cloud passing your only light source can change your settings instantly, I have seen my shutter speed drop from 1/400 to 1/60 in the blink of an eye when using spot metering as an example. Depending on the markings of the bird this can in turn blow the highlights. The same as tracking a subject in flight or on the move on a lake, your subject changes direction the light is hitting it from a different angle and is now being lit in a completely different way. And you can recover as much with JPEG as I could with a RAW file? I dont believe that for one minute "And you can recover as much with JPEG as I could with a RAW file? I dont believe that for one minute"
???
well i shoot at night rock and roll at night and birds and wildlife during the day.
i dont think i better shoot raw in case the light changes etc.i get the photo riight in the camera as i dont want to spend ages on photoshop.
ie. that is i dont need to recover a photo.
You might need to rephrase that as I am confused now as to what format you use:shrug:straycat said:"And you can recover as much with JPEG as I could with a RAW file? I dont believe that for one minute"
???
well i shoot at night rock and roll at night and birds and wildlife during the day.
i dont think i better shoot raw in case the light changes etc.i get the photo riight in the camera as i dont want to spend ages on photoshop.
ie. that is i dont need to recover a photo.
i dont need to shoot raw because i dont need to "recover" [which infers there is something wrong] any photos.
and i said i dont like hdr
i do agree shoot raw if you want to![]()
i dont need to shoot raw because i dont need to "recover" [which infers there is something wrong] any photos.

That is fair enough but like I say what you and Hoppy came out with imo are very bold statements. Do not take this as an arguementbut for example if your pictures were that good in camera why the need then for Elements in your PP:shrug: Surely the Nikon software would be more than capable of dealing with the minimal editing you would do. I am not saying which is right or wrong to use but I think it is fair that the OP be told to have a go at using both and see how he gets on with it. There have been umpteen topics on raw v jpeg, not only on TP but various other sites. I think it would be fair to say that the general opinion would be to shoot RAW or at least have a backup of your pictures in it.
What are these bold statements that you seem to disagree with? I said the same thing in my first post!
"As a beginner, unless you really want to dive into post processing right away, shoot both. Spent a little time tweaking the pictures styles (contrast, sharpness, colour, saturation etc) so you get a decent result straight out of the camera. But keep the Raws so that if you snap a masterpiece and want to squeeze every last drop of quality out of it, or need to go back and try to rescue a disaster, you have all the original data to work on."
What I referre to Richard is you saying that " You can get it 100% right in camera " That means every shot imo, I think the law of averages would prove otherwise. Yes anybody can get a useable JPEG from camera but when you quote something like the Olympic games then those photographers are in a position to run off thousands of shots to get the few that will be used and no doubt thousands of images will be trashed in the process. The way I look at it is like this, I have spent hard earnt cash on my kit. Yes I can shoot JPEG and get it good but feel I needed to shoot RAW to get the full potential from all of it. Maybe that is the wrong school of thought :shrug:
No, I don't disagree with that at all.
Maybe that comment I made was badly expressed, though I think I've made it clear later that there is sometimes more to be had from a Raw file, if only in the area of highlight recovery.
Yes, you can often get a JPEG 100% right SOOC, depending on the subject and how you set up the camera (HTP, AOL, picture styles. Exposure!). Or near enough right most of the time, and that's plenty good enough for very many professionals. That was the point about the Olympics.