1. Pegasus_Thrust

    Pegasus_Thrust

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    461
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    Hi, I'm planning to go and get shots of the above flying over the local dam/reservoir next week but I am a bit green re pics of propeller aircraft.

    Can anyone recommend settings/method to capture the motion of the propellers etc?..... as there will be little/no time for trial and error.

    Thank you
     
  2. Nod

    Nod Kronus

    Messages:
    29,852
    Name:
    Nod (NOT Ethel!!!)
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    Last time I shot the Lancaster(s), I used 1/200th which was maybe a bit fast. 1/125th would have been better. I used shutter priority which gave me f/14. In hindsight, full manual, 1/125th and f/11 would probably have given me better underwing detail but they are painted black underneath so maybe not! It might have blown the sky too.

    DSC_0425.jpg
     
  3. Lensman Mark

    Lensman Mark

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    Name:
    Mark
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    I took this last weekend at 1/400th. A tad fast.

    IMG_4607.jpg
     
  4. Lensman Mark

    Lensman Mark

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    Name:
    Mark
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    1/200th gave me this...

    IMG_4792.jpg
     
  5. jpgreenwood

    jpgreenwood

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    Name:
    jason
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    If you can, get tripod mounted to reduce any camera shake. Someone might correct me but if you have the focus point on the bright sky, the camera might under-expose the shot, causing the black underside to lose detail.
    Focus Point on the aircraft underside will probably overexpose to compensate for the black paint and blow out the sky.
    Best bet you can hope for is a dull, grey day which might not make the most interesting shot, but certainly capture more aircraft detail. I would also go manual mode, 1/125 second, F11 and get it all set up ready for the incoming aircraft.
     
  6. Pegasus_Thrust

    Pegasus_Thrust

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    Much appreciated. I will aim for 1/125th and aim around the f11 mark then. I just didn't want to completely f*ck it up!!!!
     
  7. gcgraphs

    gcgraphs

    Messages:
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    Name:
    GC
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    Given they are 3 bladed props and the Merlins will most likely be at high throttle I'd be aiming for 1/160th to give motion blur but still retain some blade detail. I'd go lower for a ground idle or landing shot.

    GC
     
  8. MatBin

    MatBin

    Messages:
    3,581
    Name:
    matt
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    Might be worth dialling in a bit of ove exposure too if you have a bright sky as the meter will be fooled by all that brightness. Alternatively goes for bracket exposures.
     
  9. JayJay

    JayJay

    Messages:
    547
    Name:
    Jon
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    Would spot metering with shutter priority and auto ISO work?
     
  10. gremlin16

    gremlin16

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    1/125th auto iso and (•) metering [sorry having a mind fart on the name of that mode]

    Edit: centre weighted
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2018
  11. MatBin

    MatBin

    Messages:
    3,581
    Name:
    matt
    Edit My Images:
    Yes
    Maybe, depends on how much backlight there is, but spot and auto Iso will I believe just give you a "correct" exposure as far as the camera designers were concerned, which may not be correct for the conditions. Generally speaking I used centre weighted and 1 or 2 stops exposure compensation on bright days but your camera might want/need different settings. Experiment, doesnt cost you anything, apart from card space, shutter count and a bit of battery power :)
     

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