Large Format photography group - From "zero to hero!"

Perhaps at the next meet? Looks like a special plate rather than Arca Swiss or RC2... or am I wrong? (There's one on fleabay for £110 used once...)

EDIT Gosh: weight 1.2 kg, rated only 5 kg according to Manfrotto!

My 410 currently has my Toyo monorail on it (5.5 kg), and I'm able to move the axes easily with 2 fingers. Manfrotto will be underrating the load capacity to cover themselves if someone overloads it with 15 kg of gear and it falls off.
 
Any thoughts on the MPP Micro Technical? There seem to be a few around at reasonable prices, I understand there are quite a few versions, any to prefer/avoid?
 
Any thoughts on the MPP Micro Technical? There seem to be a few around at reasonable prices, I understand there are quite a few versions, any to prefer/avoid?

They are very solid, well made and well specked cameras which will do anything you want from a latge format camera.... but, they are immensely heavy, they make an RB 67 seem like a feathery, light thing. :D
I think, and I'm not just saying this because I know Steve, but if you are currently thinking of trying large format then you won't get better value for money than the Chroma.

I have a Wista field 45 which is wood and brass and is pretty light and portable and i was lucky to get it fairly cheaply but they are generally over £350 and they are all used, the Chroma is much cheaper and is brand new. No brainer really ;)
 
Loaded some dark slides for the first time in a while, a long while. Few finger prints I expect.

GP3 arrived it's quite thin and what idiot thought to seal it in a plastic lined paper bag which is near impossible to rip!
 
They are very solid, well made and well specked cameras which will do anything you want from a latge format camera.... but, they are immensely heavy, they make an RB 67 seem like a feathery, light thing. :D
I think, and I'm not just saying this because I know Steve, but if you are currently thinking of trying large format then you won't get better value for money than the Chroma.

I have a Wista field 45 which is wood and brass and is pretty light and portable and i was lucky to get it fairly cheaply but they are generally over £350 and they are all used, the Chroma is much cheaper and is brand new. No brainer really ;)

I reckon you must be due some commission by now Andy. I’ll build your Chroma in a special hipster weave fabric [emoji6]

Seriously though, thanks for the recommendation, I honestly do appreciate everyone’s support (and advice of course!)
 
Thanks @Andysnap, I have looked at the Chroma a few times, after the goings-on in the other thread I am just weighing up options really and wondering if this is a slippery slope I want to get involved with.

I find the picture taking mindset to be quite similar between medium format and large format, in the sense that they're both tripod-based and I take a more considered approach. (Talking about a MF SLR setup rather than a folder or other hand-held type.) Overall, MF is a bit quicker when going from deciding to take a photo, to having done so and packing the gear up before moving on, but both are much slower than using a 35mm camera. In other words, in the wider context, MF and LF can be pretty similar types of photography. If trying to choose between one or the other, it's maybe more down to the detailed differences...

MF is probably a bit cheaper to get started with, but potentially not by much. The typical Bronica ETRS (body, 75mm lens, waist level finder, one film magazine) comes in at the thick end of £300, while LF tends to be a bit more if a view camera is the basis: maybe £250 for the body, £100 on a lens, add a couple of film holders and a cheap loupe - getting on for £400. Possible to spend much more, of course, and being system-based equipment, even the cheaper starting gear tends to be added to as time goes on (lenses, filters, film magazines/holders). For B&W, cost of film can range from pretty similar per shot to a bit more for LF, but lab processing is much higher for LF - about £5 per shot for 5x4. LF colour film is much more expensive to buy, per shot, than 120, while lab processing costs remain about the same. Much cheaper if you process yourself, but that also takes some investment - 5x4 tanks tend to cost more (and most 35mm users who already develop will likely have a tank that can do 120). And 5x4 loading tends to be easier in a changing tent rather than a changing bag (too cramped - fabric gets in the way).

Another difference to consider is the weight and bulk. My fairly comprehensive MF kit is smaller and lighter than the LF kit, although not by a great deal. However, it could be cut down to very light if I wanted (eg, one lens instead of four). Harder to cut the LF kit down by much - the camera is simply heavier and much bigger, the lens needs to be separate if the camera doesn't fold with it fitted, and still need some film holders and a dark cloth. A bare bones MF camera can be a self-contained unit, while LF is probably still a bag of bits.

Handling of the actual film differs. Loading LF means dark tent and faffing with a box of sheets, but they're easy to handle when scanning - they stay rigid and flat. MF is easier to load and can be done in daylight, but I struggle to get flat negs in the scanner's carrier.

LF certainly has better image quality. For a given film stock, 5x4 compared to 645 has double the resolving power for a given subject and field of view: twice as wide, twice as tall, but grain stays the same size, so a given size of final image in LF has grain that is half the apparent size it would have in MF. However, in practical terms, it's neither here nor there unless you're printing very large - for practical image sizes, MF is already up on the plateeu.

If anything, the main thing that LF offers is the movements. Add-ons or special lenses can be had for MF, but they're expensive and not all systems have them. Moreover, most LF cameras will offer more movements than the MF equivalents. If you wanted movements, it might be cheaper overall to go LF. Movements do have their uses, although how essential they are can depend on the subject. Not used so much in landscape (or less extreme), but can be very handy for things like architecture.

There are also subtle differences in the lenses. For a give field of view, a longer focal length is used in LF, which means a shallower depth of field for a given aperture. It also means that you can stop down more before diffraction has an adverse effect on sharpness, and most LF lenses stop down further than MF lenses (f45 is common). They also tend to have smaller maximum apertures (f5.6 to f8, mostly).

These are practical considerations. If anything, the movements available in most LF cameras is a unique selling point - other formats might have movements, but they're not as comprehensive. Image quality might be a factor, although I tend to the view that they can both be extremely good, to the extent that it's not a major thing. To my mind, the rest are really just a bunch of pros and cons - differences in handling, costs, etc - where one or the other might dominate depending on what's important to the individual.

There are also the less practical considerations. Although I find the use of either format (on a tripod, for outdoor subjects) quite similar, I do find LF more absorbing as a picture taking experience - more goes into making each shot - there's a lot more involvement with the subject and how it's to be represented on the film. There's also an ephemeral aspect going on - LF is basically an old-fashioned plate camera with flexible plates instead of glass, and there's a feeling of engaging in a more traditional kind of photography.

I'll happily use either system, but if I had to choose one, it would be LF, mainly for the movements and that ephemeral, traditional vibe. What you might choose can differ, of course, depending on where your inclinations lie.
 
I reckon you must be due some commission by now Andy. I’ll build your Chroma in a special hipster weave fabric [emoji6]

Seriously though, thanks for the recommendation, I honestly do appreciate everyone’s support (and advice of course!)
Just the normal 10% mate, I'm not greedy :D
 
Thanks for taking the time @Nomad Z, it's really helpful to have some practical considerations. You say film loading needs a dark tent, would a large dark bag work, i.e. the sort of thing you stick your arms in for putting film in a tank or is more space needed?
 
Thanks for taking the time @Nomad Z, it's really helpful to have some practical considerations. You say film loading needs a dark tent, would a large dark bag work, i.e. the sort of thing you stick your arms in for putting film in a tank or is more space needed?

Yes. I’ve never used anything other than a dark bag and for space considerations it’s never been a problem, including when loading b&w frames taco style into a Paterson tank. It’s personal preference really, but I find it to be adequate :)
 
Thanks for taking the time @Nomad Z, it's really helpful to have some practical considerations. You say film loading needs a dark tent, would a large dark bag work, i.e. the sort of thing you stick your arms in for putting film in a tank or is more space needed?

As above, I’ve only ever used a large dark bag to load LF film. Depending on how warm it is outside there’s always the risk of sweaty palms but that’s more of an issue when loading reels of film onto spools than LF sheets.
 
A changing tent is very nice though, managed to get one from Calumet during a sale a few years back. A big dark bag definitely still works, and if you find that the fabric keeps getting in the way you can probably rig a frame of sorts something like two bendy poles like in a Harrison tent, just make sure the ends aren't sharp and the tension too high for wear reasons, to prop up the fabric.
 
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A changing tent is very nice though, managed to get one from Calumet during a sale a few years back. A big dark bag definitely still works, and if you find that the fabric keeps getting in the way you can probably rig a frame of sorts something like two bendy poles like in a Harrison tent, just make sure the ends aren't sharp and the tension too high for wear reasons, to prop up the fabric.

I've never done it myself but have seen other photographers using a flattened cardboard box inside a dark bag before so they can simply open it out when loading/unloading film so it keeps the sides of the bag out of the way.
 
So exactly why were you swearing like a trooper with your elbows in a dark bag at the Lakes meet, Jonathan? :D:D:D
He was probably still swearing after smashing his camera onto the picnic table :D
 
So my Fujinon 125mm is at the mercy of Parcelforce and HM customs, I'm expecting about £30 total in fees, which still makes the lens cheaper than most UK sellers on eBay. It's a shame as I'd rather have spent that money on a box of expired Velvia 50 on eBay!.
 
What do people use for processing 485? I've heard of Tacos (WTF?) and there I seem to remember a Kickstarter tank that @stevelmx5 had to take his dremel to. Just saw this email about a Stearman SP-445, expensive at £96 but made me wonder... (not that I've even got a camera, let alone film, yet!)...
 
What do people use for processing 485? I've heard of Tacos (WTF?) and there I seem to remember a Kickstarter tank that @stevelmx5 had to take his dremel to. Just saw this email about a Stearman SP-445, expensive at £96 but made me wonder... (not that I've even got a camera, let alone film, yet!)...

I used the Stearman SP445 for the first time on Sunday(I have only used Patterson tanks before). I only loaded it with one sheet of film as it was my test run for using the Canham DLC. It was really easy to load and easy to use...
 
I've gone from a jobo to the streerman tank and it is better bit it is steep at the price ,though cheaper than the jobo and less hassle than the taco methods.
 
@ChrisR, The taco method is where you use a normal paterson tank that's tall enough to take two 135 reels and then you need as many (weak) elastic bands as sheets you want to develop (up to 5 at a push in my experience). take the sheet of film, curl the long edge around to meet the parallel long edge and put a band round it. you can slot 4-5 of these into the paterson tank. Make certain the emulsion is facing inwards.

The tank @stevelmx5 took his dremel to was the SP-445. In the first instance, the holders had, albeit ribbed, solid backs. This meant for some that the antihalation layer didn't come off completely. Cutting the middle out tends to solve this, and now the latest versions being sold have this feature added.
 
What do people use for processing 485? I've heard of Tacos (WTF?) and there I seem to remember a Kickstarter tank that @stevelmx5 had to take his dremel to. Just saw this email about a Stearman SP-445, expensive at £96 but made me wonder... (not that I've even got a camera, let alone film, yet!)...

The Kickstarter tank I backed was the SP-445 Chris. I cut out the centre of the sheet holding plates so the film didn't stick to them. Stearman have done the same thing to their updated holders for the tank. It's very good and doesn't need a lot of developer to develop up to 4 sheets at a time.
 
Has anyone tried the MOD54?
I've got one, it's ok, can be a bit awkward if your loading 6 slides at once but seems to work well generally.
 
I'm really not getting on with the stearman tank, two of my sheets are scratched at the sides where they're in contact with the holders and one fell out of the holder and ended up stuck to the bath and looks pretty scratched up from removal.
 
Not as light as a loupe but I've been using an OM Zuiko 50/1.8 lens reversed instead :0) Does the same job and lets me get a good magnified view for focusing.

As I've subscribed to the Chroma kickstarter, I've started looking at the other bits needed for LF, and the cost can soon add up a fair bit.

Initially I was also a little surprised at how expensive a Loupe could be, so following on from some earlier posts in this thread, decided to try the DIY route.
I looked on eBay for the cheapest camera lens available, the idea being to take it apart and see what could be done with the convex elements.
A couple of days later the postman arrived with a spares or repair Pentacon 70-210 zoom that was hard to see through due to the mold. I'd reasoned that if taking it apart in any case, it should be easy enough to clean the elements.

Well, I ended up with 2 loupes which I hope will be suitable when the camera eventually arrives:

First was using the front element, and some of the lens casing. This is easy to view from a distance and gives a large very clear image. The front bit still rotates and screws in and out a little giving a slight zoom functionality to it - maybe variation from about 3x to 4x. It also comes with its lens cap for protection:

Untitled by conradsphotos, on Flickr

Untitled by conradsphotos, on Flickr

Untitled by conradsphotos, on Flickr


The second one, I used one of the smaller elements from inside the lens and attached it to a short length of plastic pipe I had laying around, with some Sugru mouldable glue. Cutting, then sanding the other end of the pipe until it was the correct length for the image to be in focus. It looks a bit messy, but it certainly works, and with your eye close to it gives, what I'd guess to be about 5 or 6x magnification. The picture looks a bit distorted due to trying to shoot it with the phone, but it's very clear using it with your eye:

Untitled by conradsphotos, on Flickr

Untitled by conradsphotos, on Flickr



Untitled by conradsphotos, on Flickr




With both the photos through the loupes if you click on the pic to go to my flickr and then click to enlarge, you can clearly see the pixels on the computer monitor (ultra high def), so I am assuming/hoping that this will be a suitable image to enable accurate focussing on the ground glass of the camera.

Finally, the best bit was the total cost for the lens delivered (buy it now price) was £6, so that's £3 per loupe. :)

.
 
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As I've subscribed to the Chroma kickstarter, I've started looking at the other bits needed for LF, and the cost can soon add up a fair bit.

Initially I was also a little surprised at how expensive a Loupe could be, so following on from some earlier posts in this thread, decided to try the DIY route.
I looked on eBay for the cheapest camera lens available, the idea being to take it apart and see what could be done with the convex elements.
A couple of days later the postman arrived with a spares or repair Pentacon 70-210 zoom that was hard to see through due to the mold. I'd reasoned that if taking it apart in any case, it should be easy enough to clean the elements.

Well, I ended up with 2 loupes which I hope will be suitable when the camera eventually arrives:

First was using the front element, and some of the lens casing. This is easy to view from a distance and gives a large very clear image. The front bit still rotates and screws in and out a little giving a slight zoom functionality to it - maybe variation from about 3x to 4x. It also comes with its lens cap for protection:

Untitled by conradsphotos, on Flickr

Untitled by conradsphotos, on Flickr

Untitled by conradsphotos, on Flickr


The second one, I used one of the smaller elements from inside the lens and attached it to a short length of plastic pipe I had laying around, with some Sugru mouldable glue. Cutting, then sanding the other end of the pipe until it was the correct length for the image to be in focus. It looks a bit messy, but it certainly works, and with your eye close to it gives, what I'd guess to be about 5 or 6x magnification. The picture looks a bit distorted due to trying to shoot it with the phone, but it's very clear using it with your eye:

Untitled by conradsphotos, on Flickr

Untitled by conradsphotos, on Flickr



Untitled by conradsphotos, on Flickr




With both the photos through the loupes if you click on the pic to go to my flickr and then click to enlarge, you can clearly see the pixels on the computer monitor (ultra high def), so I am assuming/hoping that this will be a suitable image to enable accurate focussing on the ground glass of the camera.

Finally, the best bit was the total cost for the lens delivered (buy it now price) was £6, so that's £3 per loupe. :)

.

I’m a big fan of DIY options (you probably realised that already, thanks for your support [emoji6]) and these look great. I generally use an OM Zuiko 50/1.8 and reverse it so it gives an enlarged view.
 
I'm really not getting on with the stearman tank, two of my sheets are scratched at the sides where they're in contact with the holders and one fell out of the holder and ended up stuck to the bath and looks pretty scratched up from removal.
I haven't read the whole of this thread, but I use a patterson orbital which works really well. I started using it just with manual agitation which is quite easy, but now I have a motor as well.

Takes 1 to 4 sheets and is easy to load and easy on chemical volumes too.

I scratched the bottom as recommended by someone, but I didn't cut vanes or any thing else.

I need to shoot some more 4x5.
 
As I've subscribed to the Chroma kickstarter, I've started looking at the other bits needed for LF, and the cost can soon add up a fair bit.
Initially I was also a little surprised at how expensive a Loupe could be, so following on from some earlier posts in this thread, decided to try the DIY route.
I use a fabric magnifier for a loupe and a black polo shirt as a darkcloth. It's a bit faffy, but then I am really slow at setting up anyway.
 
Does it make a significant difference if a lens is in a Seiko (or Seikosha) shutter rather than Copal? I was thinking in the context of the Chroma... I've been looking at Fujinon LF lenses on fleabay and almost all are (a) from Japan and (b) not with Copal shutters!
 
Does it make a significant difference if a lens is in a Seiko (or Seikosha) shutter rather than Copal? I was thinking in the context of the Chroma... I've been looking at Fujinon LF lenses on fleabay and almost all are (a) from Japan and (b) not with Copal shutters!

I can cut the lens board to whichever shutter size you need Chris so let me know the diameter of the threaded rear section of the shutter and I'll make sure it fits :)
 
Thanks Steve.

Anyone any opinions on Seiko shutters for other reasons? Eg accuracy, reliability, etc?
 
As per Woodsy, I've never used a Seiko shutter but they seem to be as reliable as any others. You could always drop an email to Mile Whitehead to see if he has any thoughts on their reliability.
 
I think one of my fujinon has a seiko shutter never noticed it being anymore off than any other.
 
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