Large Format photography group - From "zero to hero!"

I actually do it with the holders the other way round, so I'm pushing the film away from me, rather than pulling it towards me.
 
So, here we are - scans!

My first two large format photographs in all their glory.

1)
Chroma 4x5
Fujinon NW 135mm f/5.6
Fomapan 100
Fomadon R09 1+50 9 mins @ 20°

f/5.6 | 0.2 secs

My first ever large format photograph. I was struggling to see the screen for this one and using a 50mm lens as a loupe, so the fact that Santa's face is largely in focus (the bit I was actually focusing on) is a good thing. Sadly, I think I mist have set the camera up with some of the movements uncentred as there's a clear drop off in focus for Santas body, but some of the foregrouund is sharp, so I guess I had some tilt going on that I hadn't intended). I also shot it wide open, which won't have helped. It was a test picture though, so no big deal.


Advent calendar by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

2)
Chroma 4x5
Fujinon NW 135mm f/5.6
Fomapan 100
Fomadon R09 1+50 9 mins @ 20°

f/9 | 1 secs

This one, while not likely to win any awards for content or composition, is much better I think. I had a proper loupe this time and I also deliberately added a bit of tilt to get the whole of the foreground bottle in focus - which I seem to have done! And I added a bit of exposure compenstion for some bellows extension factor - look at me, running before I can walk! :D

Pretty happy with this one though. It's another test shot, really, but I'm pleased with how it turned out.


Wine miniatures by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

There's loads of detail in the scans, so I'm looking forward to trying out some more interesting subject matter to see what I can do.

Thanks for all the advice and assistance from you good folks. It's much appreciated and all very helpful. :)

Even larger versions available on Flickr if you click through.
 
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@FishyFish Assuming that you use the different colours located on the darkslide ( usually black and white) for reference as to which sheet of film is exposed**, be sure to have the correct side ( usually white) facing outwards to show unexposed.

** Some people prefer to number the holders and keep seperate written notes as to what is exposed along with film type etc.
 
One way of focusing if the screen is too dark is to use a small torch to either add extra illumination, or, if you can position it at the subject position, focus on that.
 
So, here we are - scans!

My first two large format photographs in all their glory.

1)
Chroma 4x5
Fujinon NW 135mm f/5.6
Fomapan 100
Fomadon R09 1+50 9 mins @ 20°

f/5.6 | 0.2 secs

My first ever large format photograph. I was struggling to see the screen for this one and using a 50mm lens as a loupe, so the fact that Santa's face is largely in focus (the bit I was actually focusing on) is a good thing. Sadly, I think I mist have set the camera up with some of the movements uncentred as there's a clear drop off in focus for Santas body, but some of the foregrouund is sharp, so I guess I had some tilt going on that I hadn't intended). I also shot it wide open, which won't have helped. It was a test picture though, so no big deal.


Advent calendar by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

2)
Chroma 4x5
Fujinon NW 135mm f/5.6
Fomapan 100
Fomadon R09 1+50 9 mins @ 20°

f/9 | 1 secs

This one, while not likely to win any awards for content or composition, is much better I think. I had a proper loupe this time and I also deliberately added a bit of tilt to get the whole of the foreground bottle in focus - which I seem to have done! And I added a bit of exposure compenstion for some bellows extension factor - look at me, running before I can walk! :D

Pretty happy with this one though. It's another test shot, really, but I'm pleased with how it turned out.


Wine miniatures by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

There's loads of detail in the scans, so I'm looking forward to trying out some more interesting subject matter to see what I can do.

Thanks for all the advice and assistance from you good folks. It's much appreciated and all very helpful. :)

Even larger versions available on Flickr if you click through.
They are darned good efforts tbh.

The Santa being mostly in focus wide open without purposely using movements is quite an achievement imo as 5.6 o54 format equates to some ridiculously narrow dof on 35mm

Probably less than F/2

@StephenM will no doubt know for sure …… it’s easier for me to request his advise than to try calculate it myself……yes I can be lazy! :p

Édit: About F/1.4 , so even on 35mm you would struggle to get focused like you’ve done .
Tbh wide open setting is generally used for composing and focusing before stopping down.
F/11 or F/16 are the norm for me.( on 54)
Occasionally I’ll stop down further.

I have exposed at F/8 but I don’t think I’ve ever shot wide open ( except in error )
 
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One way of focusing if the screen is too dark is to use a small torch to either add extra illumination, or, if you can position it at the subject position, focus on that.
Alternatively stop down to F/64 and pray!:exit::LOL:
 
Definitely worth practising with the exposed sheet

I had trouble getting the sheet under the "notch" (I think it's called). My solution in the end was to move the dark slide down to the notch, before putting it into the dark bag. That way the notch was easy to find, on both sides. But I suspect your manipulative capability is way better than mine, so this might not be necessary.
I did this little video a while back. Hope it helps some here.

Always wear gloves

View: https://youtu.be/HbMvPSe-7IA
 
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So, here we are - scans!

My first two large format photographs in all their glory.

1)
Chroma 4x5
Fujinon NW 135mm f/5.6
Fomapan 100
Fomadon R09 1+50 9 mins @ 20°

f/5.6 | 0.2 secs

My first ever large format photograph. I was struggling to see the screen for this one and using a 50mm lens as a loupe, so the fact that Santa's face is largely in focus (the bit I was actually focusing on) is a good thing. Sadly, I think I mist have set the camera up with some of the movements uncentred as there's a clear drop off in focus for Santas body, but some of the foregrouund is sharp, so I guess I had some tilt going on that I hadn't intended). I also shot it wide open, which won't have helped. It was a test picture though, so no big deal.


Advent calendar by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

2)
Chroma 4x5
Fujinon NW 135mm f/5.6
Fomapan 100
Fomadon R09 1+50 9 mins @ 20°

f/9 | 1 secs

This one, while not likely to win any awards for content or composition, is much better I think. I had a proper loupe this time and I also deliberately added a bit of tilt to get the whole of the foreground bottle in focus - which I seem to have done! And I added a bit of exposure compenstion for some bellows extension factor - look at me, running before I can walk! :D

Pretty happy with this one though. It's another test shot, really, but I'm pleased with how it turned out.


Wine miniatures by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

There's loads of detail in the scans, so I'm looking forward to trying out some more interesting subject matter to see what I can do.

Thanks for all the advice and assistance from you good folks. It's much appreciated and all very helpful. :)

Even larger versions available on Flickr if you click through.
Bloody good results.

It sure is fun this 4x5 stuff.

How do you manage to keep a wine bottle full long enough to take a large format image of it. I barely manage a digital picture before it's open ;)
 
So, here we are - scans!

My first two large format photographs in all their glory.

1)
Chroma 4x5
Fujinon NW 135mm f/5.6
Fomapan 100
Fomadon R09 1+50 9 mins @ 20°

f/5.6 | 0.2 secs

My first ever large format photograph. I was struggling to see the screen for this one and using a 50mm lens as a loupe, so the fact that Santa's face is largely in focus (the bit I was actually focusing on) is a good thing. Sadly, I think I mist have set the camera up with some of the movements uncentred as there's a clear drop off in focus for Santas body, but some of the foregrouund is sharp, so I guess I had some tilt going on that I hadn't intended). I also shot it wide open, which won't have helped. It was a test picture though, so no big deal.


Advent calendar by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

2)
Chroma 4x5
Fujinon NW 135mm f/5.6
Fomapan 100
Fomadon R09 1+50 9 mins @ 20°

f/9 | 1 secs

This one, while not likely to win any awards for content or composition, is much better I think. I had a proper loupe this time and I also deliberately added a bit of tilt to get the whole of the foreground bottle in focus - which I seem to have done! And I added a bit of exposure compenstion for some bellows extension factor - look at me, running before I can walk! :D

Pretty happy with this one though. It's another test shot, really, but I'm pleased with how it turned out.


Wine miniatures by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

There's loads of detail in the scans, so I'm looking forward to trying out some more interesting subject matter to see what I can do.

Thanks for all the advice and assistance from you good folks. It's much appreciated and all very helpful. :)

Even larger versions available on Flickr if you click through.
These are fabulous, Nige. I think my Chroma is in the right hands at last!
 
Thanks Asha. I used the Stearman tank. I practiced a few times beforehand, but it all went pretty smoothly, even within the confines of the changing bag. I now have an empty film holder so the next challenge will be loading some sheets of film into that.
One thing I have found with my Stearman is that occasionally the neg sticks to one of the film holder ribs and the anti-halation layer doesn't get removed in that area. To overcome this I have been inverting the thank "flat" rather than side on. My thinking being that the developer will push the neg away from the film holder IYSWIM and since I have been using this technique I haven't had the problem.
 
One thing I have found with my Stearman is that occasionally the neg sticks to one of the film holder ribs and the anti-halation layer doesn't get removed in that area. To overcome this I have been inverting the thank "flat" rather than side on. My thinking being that the developer will push the neg away from the film holder IYSWIM and since I have been using this technique I haven't had the problem.
Do you have a earlier model? I think they redesigned the holders because of this and you can buy the new holders if you wanted
 
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Well done Nige. Sadly I've got all the kit but work and other stuff has prevented me using it for some time, a problem I'm hoping to resolve soon. You've really started to get the hang of it, I hope I casn do as well when I resume my efforts - my first two negs were blank - I dev'd unexposed film; learned that lesson. Then I double exposed the next two! Re-learned the same lesson. It gave me some samples to practice loading the Stearman and film holders with though!
 
IMG_3986.jpeg

Tested with 300ml and all working praise the lord, the pump is from Japan and although expensive for a pump was cheaper than the official jobo one, the tank was from Germany for £230 and the motor base £50 in the UK
 
View attachment 378189

Tested with 300ml and all working praise the lord, the pump is from Japan and although expensive for a pump was cheaper than the official jobo one, the tank was from Germany for £230 and the motor base £50 in the UK
Wow that costs more than one of my 5x4 cameras!

I'm sure it will make processing much easier than any of my options, but I couldn't imagine spending that much on processing hardware.
 
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Wow that costs more than one of my 5x4 cameras!

I'm sue it will make processing much easier than any of my options, but I couldn't imagine spending that much on processing hardware.
ha ha yeah, at least it wasnt a full price jobo!
 
I've not yet put film through my 5x4, but I'm gradually getting closer - I've finally got my fastest 150mm lens (purchased in October 2021) mounted on a lens board. This lens came as part of a job lot & weighs 2.2kg, so I probably won't be taking it out for any hikes/photowalks!
IMGP8795small.JPG

IMGP8802 small.JPG

Coverage of this monster is more than adequate for 5x4, even with the front standard shifted fully to the side & a little tilt added.
Image is nice & bright but DOF is minimal (not to surprising given it's roughly f/1.2). I think I'm going to have to make some waterhouse stops before trying film with it!
FWIW these images show it focused to about 1.5m so the bag bellows will likely to be needed for most shots.
 
I made my first cock-up(s) today.

I set up one shot of a chapel that I've photographed before. Spent time setting up the camera and getting focus correct. Exposure calculated and correct shutter speed and aperture set. Took the shot. Packed up and moved on to the next location.

As I was setting things up for the next shot I realised what I'd done for the first one - removed the rear dark-slide instead of the front one, thereby exposing the sheet of film through the ground glass. Thinking back, I can even remember seeing the dark-slide being removed through the ground glass. FFS!

Realising what I'd done, I was able to at least shoot the unexposed sheet. So, again, I set up a shot, got everything ready, fired the shutter, went to put the dark-slide back in and... it won't go in. I could feel resistance - a sort of springy resistance like it was pushing on the edge of the sheet of film. After perservering for a while I had to give it up as a bad job. Again, FFS!

So that's two sheets of HP5+ down the toilet.

I did shoot a sheet of Fomapan 100 and two other sheets of HP5+ seemingly without issue. But who knows if they'll be successful given my lack of luck and attention for the first two?

:headbang:
 
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I made my first cock-up(s) today.

I set up one shot of a chapel that I've photographed before. Spent time setting up the camera and getting focus correct. Exposure calculated and correct shutter speed and aperture set. Took the shot. Packed up and moved on to the next location.

As I was setting things up for the next shot I realised what I'd done for the first one - removed the rear dark-slide instead of the front one, thereby exposing the sheet of film through the ground glass. Thinking back, I can even remember seeing the dark-slide being removed through the ground glass. FFS!

Realising what I'd done, I was able to at least shoot the unexposed sheet. So, again, I set up a shot, got everything ready, fired the shutter, went to put the dark-slide back in and... it won't go in. I could feelfeel resistance - a sort of springy resistance like it was pushing on the edge of the sheet of film. After perservering for a while I had to give it up as a bad job. Again, FFS!

So that's two sheets of HP5+ down the toilet.

I did shoot a sheet of Fomapan 100, and two other sheets of HP5+ seemingly without issue. But who knows if they'll be successful given my lack of luck and attention for the first two?

:headbang:
First of many, if my experience is anything to go by. My best one was taking half plate sized dds when the camera had the wholplate back fitted. :asshat:
 
I made my first cock-up(s) today.

I set up one shot of a chapel that I've photographed before. Spent time setting up the camera and getting focus correct. Exposure calculated and correct shutter speed and aperture set. Took the shot. Packed up and moved on to the next location.

As I was setting things up for the next shot I realised what I'd done for the first one - removed the rear dark-slide instead of the front one, thereby exposing the sheet of film through the ground glass. Thinking back, I can even remember seeing the dark-slide being removed through the ground glass. FFS!

Realising what I'd done, I was able to at least shoot the unexposed sheet. So, again, I set up a shot, got everything ready, fired the shutter, went to put the dark-slide back in and... it won't go in. I could feelfeel resistance - a sort of springy resistance like it was pushing on the edge of the sheet of film. After perservering for a while I had to give it up as a bad job. Again, FFS!

So that's two sheets of HP5+ down the toilet.

I did shoot a sheet of Fomapan 100 and two other sheets of HP5+ seemingly without issue. But who knows if they'll be successful given my lack of luck and attention for the first two?

:headbang:
Popped your cherry! The next one wont sting as much!
 
I made my first cock-up(s) today.

I set up one shot of a chapel that I've photographed before. Spent time setting up the camera and getting focus correct. Exposure calculated and correct shutter speed and aperture set. Took the shot. Packed up and moved on to the next location.

As I was setting things up for the next shot I realised what I'd done for the first one - removed the rear dark-slide instead of the front one, thereby exposing the sheet of film through the ground glass. Thinking back, I can even remember seeing the dark-slide being removed through the ground glass. FFS!

Realising what I'd done, I was able to at least shoot the unexposed sheet. So, again, I set up a shot, got everything ready, fired the shutter, went to put the dark-slide back in and... it won't go in. I could feelfeel resistance - a sort of springy resistance like it was pushing on the edge of the sheet of film. After perservering for a while I had to give it up as a bad job. Again, FFS!

So that's two sheets of HP5+ down the toilet.

I did shoot a sheet of Fomapan 100 and two other sheets of HP5+ seemingly without issue. But who knows if they'll be successful given my lack of luck and attention for the first two?

:headbang:
Wait til you have but one sheet left available, come across a once in a lifetime shot and make an error !

You’ll make plenty more that’s for sure even after you become more experienced.

Like Peter I’ve got to location , all set up etc only to realise that I have the wrong format dds to hand.
On one occasion I had forgotten to pack any!

At least leaving the light meter or darkcloth at home can be overcome with sunny 16 and a jacket so it’s not always a catastrophy.

.
 
No film was wasted in this learning experience....

Repeat a few times.

And congratulations on making an error I'd never thought of - removing the wrong darkslide. I've made your other error though.
 
Went out today to test Fomapan 100 at different speeds with the intention of printing to see which shadow detail I prefered. Everything was going so well till after Id shot all 4 sheets I realised my boo boo

On todays episode of 4x5 cock ups:

Adjust apeture for bellow, check
Adjust aperture for shutter speed, check
Keep film within reciprocity, 1/2 second, check
Meter for the shadows, check - I metered on the dirt and leaves next to the red bush under the left window
Adjust exposure for to put shadows on zone 3, OH FOR F* SAKEEEEEE

So now I have 4 overexposed shots, but its not all bad news, it will allow me to practice with the jobo tank without risking anything precious,

I was metering with the Revini spot meter as well and even in London the battery temp got too cold and had to stick the batteries in my hand for a couple of minutes



IMG_4016.jpeg
 
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Keeping with the cock-ups theme...

I developed a couple of sheets of Fomapan 100 today - one which I shot a couple of weeks ago, and the other shot yesterday. The one from a fortnight back is not good...


4x5 light leak by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

Any clues as to the cause of the light leak? My first thought is that the film holder wasn't seated properly or something. None of the other photos I've made so far have suffered in this way.

Outside of the light leak, I've clearly got some unwanted tilt going on too. I blame myself for this, for not checking focus across the entire composition.

The next shot is better. No light leaks (developed at the same time).

This one is sharp where it counts - the cottages - but the focus drops off on the left hand edge. I'm wondering if I got some swing going on this time? I did use a wide aperture because the wind was getting up, but don't think it's that as otherwise the little seal in the foreground would be out of focus too, I presume.


Turnerwood by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr
 
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Yeah Id chalk it up to film holder seating and shoot again making note of the holders and each shot
 
Yeah Id chalk it up to film holder seating and shoot again making note of the holders and each shot

I didn't make a note of which film holder had the problematic sheet inside and I've now loaded two of them with fresh film. Hopefully it won't happen again, but I'm going to start noting which holder was used for each shot along with the other details.
 
Getting the darkslide between the holder and back while trying to put it back in can cause this. Quite easy to do, especially in portrait
 
The DDS has a ridge on it that sits in a grove on the camera back and I guess it is there to help keep the holder in place whilst pulling out the dark slide. IDK about the Chroma but on my MPP it is possible to put the DDS in the wrong side, if someone :whistle: ever happened to do that then the ridge is creating a light leak becuase it is holding the DDS away from the back at one side.
 
Realising what I'd done, I was able to at least shoot the unexposed sheet. So, again, I set up a shot, got everything ready, fired the shutter, went to put the dark-slide back in and... it won't go in. I could feel resistance - a sort of springy resistance like it was pushing on the edge of the sheet of film. After perservering for a while I had to give it up as a bad job. Again, FFS!
I guess you had missed one or both of the film retaining channels when loading? Again all part of the learning experience...

One thing about this game is that it keeps you on your toes
 
The DDS has a ridge on it that sits in a grove on the camera back and I guess it is there to help keep the holder in place whilst pulling out the dark slide. IDK about the Chroma but on my MPP it is possible to put the DDS in the wrong side, if someone :whistle: ever happened to do that then the ridge is creating a light leak becuase it is holding the DDS away from the back at one side.
Thanks Chris. I’ll beat this in mind. In fact I might spend some time practice-loading the film holders into the camera without taking any photos, looking at how they fit more carefully.
I guess you had missed one or both of the film retaining channels when loading? Again all part of the learning experience...

One thing about this game is that it keeps you on your toes
The film was already loaded in this one when I got it, but it didn’t look like it was out of the channels when I took it out of the camera. I think the notch was at the dark slide end, but I don’t know if this might cause a snag? I’ve loaded my new sheets with the notch at the flap end of the holders.

I’ve also seen a few mentions of it being more likely in portrait mode, as @Karl.t1965 mentions.

In fact, this Bryan Birks video made me smile when I rewatched it earlier. :)

View: https://youtu.be/zMSWSICC-xE
 
I didn't make a note of which film holder had the problematic sheet inside and I've now loaded two of them with fresh film. Hopefully it won't happen again, but I'm going to start noting which holder was used for each shot along with the other details.

Not something I do, or have ever done, but this may interest you on identifying holders.

View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vkm0rwF_WQs
 
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Not something I do, or have ever done, but this may interest you on identifying holders.

View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vkm0rwF_WQs
Flipping eck, talk about making things complicated.

Everybody to their own I guess.

If a problem arises, look further into the source of the problem but I wouldn’t go all out to be able to trace back every last detail of every exposure just for the sake of it.


Just load the film and expose it.!
 
Given my DIY skills, cuting notches into a film holder isn't likely to end well. I'd probably pierce the entire holder and take one of my fingers off in the process.:runaway:

The dark slides in the holders I have are numbered, so combining that with writing the film stock on the top of them will hopefully suffice. I'm attempting to remember to make notes for every sheet I expose (date, subject, film, lens, aperture, shutter speed, and any notable movements / bellows extension etc.), so if I add the number of the film holder / dark slide used then I should be able to track the potential source of any problems.
 
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