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I have a couple of 5x4 cameras for sale in the classifieds
The minimum IC to cover 4x5 is 153mm so the lens you are watching offers 20mm outside of that which imo is not an awful lot ..... ideal for landscapes requiring just a little bit of front or rear tilt but for more extreme rise fall etc to correct verticals in architecture, i think you may find it too restrictive. Saying that I have lenses that only just cover the formats and I manage pretty much ok with them.. we adapt to what we have available.
Anyway here’s a chart that may offer you some helpful info
lenses for 4x5 in
www.largeformatphotography.info
However if you use the full rise allowance for example and then require some swing or tilt, the limitations will become evident.
It might be worth putting a Wanted ad in the F&C sale/swap section as someone may be thinking of upgrading or changing a lens they have. Having a willing buyer for their existing lens can help this process along. (no, I'm not thinking of changing mine!)oh well, went up in price last minute, decision made for me
It wasn’t meant to be.oh well, went up in price last minute, decision made for me
I was still unsure about making the move into 5x4, however missing the lens, followed 7 minutes later by missing a couple of mint dark slides because I tried to be clever despite not using ebay for about 5 years (who knew you had to press confirm bid :/ ) has left me surprisingly disappointed, suggesting deep down I really want to give this a go.
another question (or confirmation) please if you could be so kind.
Am I correct in understanding that a Compur 0 shutter and Copol 0 shutter have the same opening size for a lens board (34.6mm)?
thanks
thanks, link added to bookmarks
Next question needs to be one I can’t answer so someone else can have a turn lol
Besides I need to learn something too
So can anyone tell me where the hell is the SD card slot on my intrepid ??
I was looking for the spec of a Symmar S 180mm lens and founf that Schneider Optics historical data page has gone. Thankfully, an enthusiast has recovered this data and hosted it on his blog at this linked site. Star man
I'm not familiar with the Wayback machine and what it might contain, I'm afraid. It seems a fairly petty thing for Schneider to have done, since it is a proud history.I wonder if anyone saved the original page(s) on the Internet Archive WayBack Machine?
In actual fact, perhaps @stevelmx5 might fancy making a self adhesive 3D ‘card’ holder like what is found on the back of some film cameras to carry the film box card showing the film that’s loaded??A little project for anyone like me using a grafmatic and having to sometimes push the film.
To benefit from the full range of speeds available and to rememberwhich holder holds which sheet, I have numbered the septum’s to relate to the number dial on the grafmatic and attached a check box on the rear to keep a record of film speed that each septum was exposed at.
Obviously to clarify the septum’s, the film would have to be removed and stowed in the dark ( tank) before viewing the number but if the septum’s become mixed up when removed, this method offers a way of clarifying each sheet and thus ensuring correct development.
I’ve little doubt it has already been done by many folk but for anyone who for whom it may help, here it is explained.
View attachment 300010View attachment 300011
The image is (someone correct me if I'm wrong here) formed on the ground side of the glass, and the issue is to get the groundglass mounted the correct face outward. Unless the glass is replaced, this shouldn't be an issue. The same does apply to a Fresnel screen, if fitted.
Ah OK what I've read suggests the GG is on the lens side not the viewing side, What you have said makes more sense in terms of focussing, and I wondered if it was the other way around because of the construction of the dark slides (ie to slot the film into the same plane as the GG required the GG to be on the lens side).
Thanks Stephen that helps
Large Format Photography and the Ever Deepening Mystery of Focussing Loupes
So many options, so little time, is a cheapo fixed focus loupe good enough? or is there an issue with this focussing on the "wrong" side of the GG as a number of interweb sites suggest (which does make sense in a way, but does 2mm of glass really make a difference)? In which case I need a vari-focus version, but these seem to be a little rarer than unicorn horns unless I'm prepared to sacrifice a kidney.
Any advice would be very welcome
As has been said it depends on your eyes but I mainly use some 3.5x reading glasses (cheap from ebay) for focussing, for comparison I normally use 1.5x reading glasses. There are some times when I use a loupe but that is only if I am trying to get clever with focusing, you could start with the cheap glasses and then get a loupe if you feel the needLarge Format Photography and the Ever Deepening Mystery of Focussing Loupes
So many options, so little time, is a cheapo fixed focus loupe good enough? or is there an issue with this focussing on the "wrong" side of the GG as a number of interweb sites suggest (which does make sense in a way, but does 2mm of glass really make a difference)? In which case I need a vari-focus version, but these seem to be a little rarer than unicorn horns unless I'm prepared to sacrifice a kidney.
Any advice would be very welcome
As has been said it depends on your eyes but I mainly use some 3.5x reading glasses (cheap from ebay) for focussing, for comparison I normally use 1.5x reading glasses. There are some times when I use a loupe but that is only if I am trying to get clever with focusing, you could start with the cheap glasses and then get a loupe if you feel the need
The ground side is definitely on the lens side of the glass, and matches the film plane within standard sheet film holders [emoji1303]
I now have a 6x loupe with diopter control but 4x is generally sufficient and used by the majority I think.
Depends on your eyesight but the higher the magnification the increase in viewing the GG grain which in turn makes focusing more difficult.
I would recommend a 4x to start tbh.
If you need diopter control and decent optics then possibly search on Linhoff studios outlet whilst at the same time googling the contact details of your local kidney removal clinic [emoji23] lmao
I also use very strong reading glasses if I'm wearing contact lenses, on a neck cord so I can slip them off where emerging from the focusing cloth so I can see what I'm doing!
Without contacts, my short sight means I have to get to about 6 inches from the ground glass, which is fine.
My current loupe (Rodenstock, 4x, dioptre adjustment) requires me to wear contact lenses or glasses as it doesn't adjust enough for my eyes!
If you take the lens off to focus on the ground glass itself, you should get the dioptre adjustment spot on, but can you lock the adjustment?
OK so what I read previously is correct, but does that affect the loupe operation? or is a couple of mm of glass between where the loupe rests and the plane on which the image is focussed irrelevant? I've read tales of removing the lens and focusing on the grain of the GG with the loupe to "commission" it, which suggests a basic loupe is no good. (Would also suggest reading glasses as others describe and seem to be using successfully are also no good) or am I missing something here?
I'm looking currently at a 6x with diopter control (etone professional photography 6x loupe) and a basic Peak 1960 loupe magnifier with 5x magnification, which is about 20% of the cost. If I need (or would benefit) from the diopter control, and I am short sighted), then I'd probably plump for the Silvestri 4x from Linhoff Studios, which is the price of the other two together :/ I don't think I need dioptre control, but do I need adjustable focus on the loupe?
I wear glasses full time for distance, but close up my eyesight is reasonable (I read without glasses), even though due to rapidly advancing age my optician has seen fit to prescribe vari-focals.
To be fair, if the loupe doesn't have markings, you could make one. But I just go for what looks sharp. There may be marks on the ground glass (grid or whatever) that you can use to check, but even if yoy're a little off in the adjustment in my experience it's still easy to see focus come and go as you rack past the focus point.
Don't lose sight of the fact that you aren't going to be enlarging much, even with the miniature 5x4 format.
My need for glasses is for close up work predominantly hence a fixed focus loupe is no good to me anymore, hence why I sold it and bought one with a diopter.And that's the $64000 dollar question, if you can't lock it then it's a tedious step to take (if it's not necessary) each time you use it
It's just a few days until I can use my Intrepid MK3 birthday present. I think I have an understanding of reciprocity failure and have been trying out theoretical exposure with the use of an app that compensates for this (I've been surprised to see how much this increases exposure time on Foma 400).
This has thrown up a couple of other exposure related questions:
1- will use of a yellow filter require any compensation adjustment? If so 1/3, 1/2 stop etc?
2. I'll be using a 135mm lens. When would a Bellows Extension Factor come into play? I've tried to research this but I don't really get this concept. If anyone has a straight forward explanation or link to this it would be very helpful. Thanks