Beginner Lens UV filters

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Simon
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Good evening, I have just "gained" a Nikon D3100 from my daughter, it has two lenses, an 18-55 DX VR and a 55-200 DX VR. I would like to put a UV filter on each,mainly, to protect each lens. Would anyone be able to point me in the right direction as to type and make? I would also like a descent polarising filter, I believe the thread size is 52mm.

Many thanks in advance.
Simon
 
Good evening, I have just "gained" a Nikon D3100 from my daughter, it has two lenses, an 18-55 DX VR and a 55-200 DX VR. I would like to put a UV filter on each,mainly, to protect each lens. Would anyone be able to point me in the right direction as to type and make? I would also like a descent polarising filter, I believe the thread size is 52mm.

Many thanks in advance.
Simon

You would be better spending your money on a hood rather than a UV filter. It will provide more protection and will not degrade the image.
UV filters are of no use to a digital sensor.

Hoya is a good manufacturer for polarising filters, if I remember correctly:
https://www.lenstip.com/115.1-article-Polarizing_filters_test.html
 
Whether it's a good idea to use a protective filter all of the time, some of the time, or never is endlessly debated. A hood offers a different type of protection. If you choose to use a filter, get a high quality multicoated filter with an 'easy clean' layer. Examples include Hoya Fusion, Hoya HD, B+W MRC, and B+W MRC Nano. Don't just go by the brand, but by the specific range, since the same companies also make uncoated filtes that can flare badly when you shoot into the light. I wouldn't suggest a Skylight filter, since these are slightly tinted. UV filters and 'protector' filters should be neutral.
 
Are you going to be using the lens in an environment where there is a chance of damaging them? I ask as whilst I do have a couple of Hoya HD protector filters that I use on occasions (now rarely) where there may be a risk of damaging the front element (mainly beaches) in 6-7 years I've yet to mark a front element. If you are going to use a filter buy good ones, cheap filters will cause even more problems. I personally use Hoya HD protectors that I bought years ago when I was really worried, the video test of dropping metal ball bearing on to them is quite impressive. I have started to use them less and less as I've noticed they do create flare issues in backlit situations. I always use a lens hood and have a rocket blower handy to blow any particles off the front element, and I try to reduce the amount of wiping clean a front element I do too.
 
Oh-Kay... D3100.. I have bought two of them, one for daughter to do her GCSE & O-Level photo courses, and one for the O/H who felt left out! Damn good camera for not a lot of money! So money where my mouth is here I am not belittling the camera at all.

But, First up, the SLR outfit you have acquired is not particularly rare or valuable or precious, or 'new'. A pair of 'good' UV filters for those lenses would cost something in the order of £30, to offer 'protection' to an entire outfit that likely has a second hand value only in the region of £150 or so.. ignoring the matter of weather or not protection filters are a 'good idea' or not, you have to start there and ask, if they can ever possibly 'save' you more than they cost you.... and as far as investment 'protection' goes, if the value of he gear is worth spending anything to 'protect', is a filter the best bit of protection you can buy for it?

First bit of 'protection' I bought for my (shop-new) D3200 and then daughter's and O/H's (2nd hand) D3100's was actually a glass rear-screen protector. Actually cheaper than a UV filter, its fit and forget 'protection' of the back-screen, which IS a make or break component if damaged, and with polymer screen the more likely to get scratched, scuffed, chipped or bashed... glass screen over it does make it more prone to glare.. that's why I bought a DSLR so I can avoid that, looking through the optical view-finder... but if back-screen doing a high-school smart-phone impression.... (Is it like shiny shoes in the play-ground in my day? Do you wonder?.... if you had shiny new shoes, the entire forth form was compelled to stamp on them to suitably 'distress' them? Now, in the new millennia, If you have a smart-phone with a complete compliment of pixels, do they have to play table-tens or something with it until there's a liquid-crystal gash or three across the screen?) .. If the back-screen bludgered, actually turning the camera 'on' and selecting settings can be almost impossible.. and a back-screen is probably more expensive to buy off e-bay, IF you can get one, and fit it DIY, than a second hand lens if damaged... £15 of protection vs a £100 replacement 'body' is still a tight call, but, ease and probability with which a back-scree may get damaged, if the camera put on its back on the table, or something is chaffing against it in the camera bag, does to my mid make it more 'useful' protection than a UV filter. which is only protecting the front element when the lens-cap is taken off....

Next 'bit' of useful protection bought, was actually a camera bag, to protect the whole camera against handling damage, and to try and keep all the bits together. Remember spends more time on the shelf or n transport than in your hands, THAT is whe its more likely to get damaged! But even here, that protection is no substitute for common sense, and telling the girl(s) ... (repeatedly!!!) NOT to leave the camera bodes knocking about loose, especially without the lenses and the back-caps or plugs fitted!

UV filters for 'protection'... I bought Kood ultra slim, I think they were around £10 each for my own lenses (that would actually take'em! the two expensive ones actually wont!) And similarly for the girls.

I the face of criticism.... IDGAS that the sensor should already have UV and IR filters in it, and its a redundant bit of kit and merely adding possible image degradation etc... if I was 'that' concerned about ultimate image quality, I wouldn't be shooting an entry level DSLR to begin with, and probably wouldn't be shooting digital or even an SLR at ALL!

In days of yore, pointing expensive film cameras at close range to rather fast motorbikes chucking sand in large rooster tails at my expensive lens and the like, suggested that such 'protection' was actually 'useful'.. not so much to stop lens front element getting scratched by flying crud.. which from riding a motorbike in such harsh conditions, and looking at the state of my helmet visor or googles after, ISN'T actually all that likely! FAR more likely is that I will do the scratching with a baby-wipe or similar trying to clean it off!.. Now if conditions or more likely ME do cause scratch to the font element, damn site cheaper and easier to replace a 'protection' filter than a front element or entire lens..... THEY CAN BE USEFUL! And if you are worried about image degradation and flare and the like in some stations you CAN take the 'off'! But like I say, if that was at the top of my list of worries, I probably wouldn't be shooting widgital or an entry level widgetal, anyway!

More pertinent in there, is that the lens is more likely to suffer from 'user damage' in ANY situation, from being dropped, to roughly cleaned, as it is any damage due to environment like sand spay or water ingress, for which a protection filter stands little change of offering complete 'protection'... bit like a motorbike crash hat... they can only save you hurt IF you crash, and then how much hurt is all situation dependent.... they wont stop you getting brain dead if you hit something hard enough, and if you don't hit anything that hard, may save any more hurt than a bobble-hat, whilst they aint going to stop you getting a broken leg!

Again, common sense has far more influence, NOT putting the camera down on the beach; not swapping lenses at the side of the track when bikes are chucking sand about, or when its raining, etc etc etc.

But as 'part' of an overall strategy from equipment protection, protection filters 'can' be quite useful, within limits, and that IS, I have to say, against the sort of damage likely, wiping rain off the front element with a sleeve or hanky, far more likely than taking track-side action shots in the rooster tails at Weston Beach-Races; And being dropped nose down off a car bonnet in a car-park? Well, you pays your money and your takes your chances! At that sort of level of potential damage, front element may be last thing to worry about, and a smashed body, or lens mount, focus elements kicked askew etc, its hoping a motorbike crash hat will save you a broken leg sort of thinking! It's just 'not' got a hope really! But probably IS more sensible to wear a crash-hat for the bit it may save, 'just in case', than not!

As an aside; curiously, in forty years of motorbiking, and plenty of competition riding in there, I can honestly say, I really cannot attribute a crash hat for EVER saving much, if any hurt! I have only come off, on tarmac a couple of times, I have to say, so prevention IS I have to say far better than protection! But, in all but one 'off' I have never suffered more than a small scratch or five to my bone-dome! Have wrecked a couple of jackets, and in serious 'off-road' competition, including falling down a 30 foot cliff on one event, many MANY pairs of jeans... and I have probably spent more on new mudguards, handlebars and levers than I have EVER spent on new crash-helmets! Which is to suggest that 'protection' is, like I say so oft about crash-hats, USING your head, not spending lots of money to stick your head in a fancy bucket ad think you have the matter covered! You DO need to look at it the topic strategically, and take a much wider view.

Which takes us Back-To-Top, and starts by asking the question, IS this gear actually worth protecting? And beyond that, if it IS, remembering that its not a fit and forget solution, or substitute for common sense and good practice!

As to the recommends? If you are going to buy and use a protection filter, get a good one. No pot skimping on it and risking added image degradation from it. As said, I bought Kood, as they are a better brand, but not so exorbitantly priced. Dependent on retailer, anything from perhaps £5-£10 per filter, its not to my mind worth risking a 'cheap' filter, especially for protection, liklely to be used for almost 100% of shots, ad I have had some anomalies and aberrations with cheap or unbranded filters, not necessarily UV's on film camera's but rsk remains, and for the small difference on price, IF you have deemed them worth the money, then not worth them making matters worse rather than better; so Lee or Hoya, or Kood, etc, avoid unbranded or the more exorbitantly priced.

Likewise the polariser. Again, I bought Kood ultra-slim for both my lenses that will take them, so I don't have to 'swap' and they are almost a semi-permanent 'fit'. About the only filter I use on digital, their effect is one you just cannot replicate in post-process or anything, they are worth the money, but they can be a lot more money, but even more so here, worth it. I have a few old liniar polarisers from the film era and one in-particular gives a very strong blue 'tint' and curious filter-fade effects, they really aren't worth stinting on.Stick to the better known brand names.

I use ultra-slim filters, to avoid vignetting issues from the mount, particularly stacking a polarser on a protection filter, after suffering it on film cameras, and with prices a lot more reasonable these days, I have one per lens that takes them. (the 18-55 & 55-300). They don't work well on wide and ultra-wide angles, due to the wide angle range of incident light causing polarization 'fade' anyway, and you dont save an awful lot of money f you have to use a step-down adapter to share filters between lenses, may as well spend that bit extra and have one per. (Especially working with wide range zooms! Be rather more onerous to have to buy one each for every 'prime' lens for each of my film cameras!).

But, that's my 'advice' all told, bar to say that a cameras no darn good unless it takes pictures, so don't be too precious about the ruddy thing! Far too many are too scared of damaging the darn things to put them at risk using them! So they sit on the back of wardrobes or get cradled under coats NOT taking pictures when they could be getting use and making memories, and, end of the day.... which would you rather have; a 'mint' example of a camera for your kids to stick on e-bay for a few pennies when you are shuffled off to the old folks home... OR pictures in the album to look at between school dinners served by women in white coats, with a seasoning of incontinence tablets!?!?!

Common sense and a bit of good practice goes a long, long way!

And, ultimate 'protection'? Well, I bought the daughter her D3100 when she started hanging upside down off climbing frames with my camera, and chucking water filled balloons about in close proximity to its sensitive electrics!!! End of the day the thing is always giong to be 'at risk', And ultimate conclusion camera gets killed and a new one bought to replace it.. so I pre-empted the conclusion and bought the replacement 'first'.. and gave it to daughter to use hanging upside down off a climbing frame or up a tree, or pricking water balloons in front of or wading into the sea with, under interesting cast iron piers etc! (Cost of entry level DSLR, could replace three or four or more 2nd hand, for the cost of one 'precious' enthusiast grade model, so what the heck!.. especially as three compacts and countless smart-phones already 'deaded' along the way!!)

Of all the early buy 'accessories' for a camera? Number one is good, fast memory cards, and spare batteries! You are far more likely to have a flat battery than a smashed lens element; you are far more likely to see that 'stunning' scene after you have filled your memory card. and taking pictures is what you buy a camera for.. so THAT is where first spend on the gadget should be prioritized.. better a picture and a broken camera, than a mint pristine camera and no pictures! At least to my way of thinking!

Remember, there will ALWAYS be a 'better' camera or another accessory out there; this moment, this photo oportunity will only be here once and fleetingly, so grab it whilst you can!
 
A high-quality UV filter shouldn't have a noticeable adverse effect on image quality (particularly if it's used with a lens hood) and will keep raindrops, sea spray, bits of grit and dust, etc. off the front element of your lens. If you ever do make a pig's ear of cleaning the filter and scratch it, then it's £40 or so down the drain, not £150 or so for a new front lens element or a similar cost to buy a second-hand lens (and hoping that you don't buy one with any faults).

I use UV filters on my lenses for that reason (plus a filter is needed to complete the weather sealing on some of the lenses I have, according to the manufacturer). As for make and type, I use Hoya HD UV filters on some of my lenses and have been happy enough with the results - other makes and models are available, and I imagine there will be some tests and reviews available on the internet about them. However, if I had some cheap lenses that were easy and cheap to replace, then I'd probably weigh things up as to whether I felt the £40+ each it would cost me for a high-quality UV filter was worth the investment.

Oh, and if you do go down the UV filter route then don't forget to take it off if you ever try to photograph the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis), as filters can cause concentric rings to appear on the photographs (I believe it's something to do with the light-wave frequency and colour)! Hope this is useful, and best of luck in deciding what to do. (y)
 
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A hood doesn't keep dust, dirt and grime off the front element of a lens like a filter does, so how would it be better for that purpose? A hood may provide some protection if the lens is dropped on the floor (if it lands front down and the impact shock isn't transferred through the lens hood in a way that damages the body structure of the lens) and keep raindrops off the front element, providing the rain is falling vertically and the lens is horizontal. Other than that, in terms of physical protection, what else would a lens hood do?
 
A hood doesn't keep dust, dirt and grime off the front element of a lens like a filter does, so how would it be better for that purpose? A hood may provide some protection if the lens is dropped on the floor (if it lands front down and the impact shock isn't transferred through the lens hood in a way that damages the body structure of the lens) and keep raindrops off the front element, providing the rain is falling vertically and the lens is horizontal. Other than that, in terms of physical protection, what else would a lens hood do?

When I am at the beach, I have a Hoya UV filter and lens hood on, then when I only in town then I only use the hood. Plus the lens hood will help with stray light :)
 
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Filters can and do affect image quality, even the best. The most common problem is not usually loss of sharpness, but flare and ghosting with bright areas in the frame, or just outside it. Sharpness can also be affected with longer lenses that magnify any flaws.

On the other hand, a lens hood can only enhance image quality, and also offers good protection.

If there's a real danger of damage to the lens (sea spray, flying mud, sand etc) then it obviously makes sense to fit a protection filter, but not permanently. The best filters are multi-coated (to reduce flare) and easy-clean coatings are also well worth having.
 
Filters can and do affect image quality, even the best. The most common problem is not usually loss of sharpness, but flare and ghosting with bright areas in the frame, or just outside it. Sharpness can also be affected with longer lenses that magnify any flaws.

On the other hand, a lens hood can only enhance image quality, and also offers good protection.

If there's a real danger of damage to the lens (sea spray, flying mud, sand etc) then it obviously makes sense to fit a protection filter, but not permanently. The best filters are multi-coated (to reduce flare) and easy-clean coatings are also well worth having.

Have a look at this @HoppyUK

https://www.ephotozine.com/article/hoya-hd-uv-filter-review-27788

Can you see an obvious loss of image quality from flare and ghosting from the 'best' UV filters in that test? Don't forget they're shot into the sun to encourage flare and haze, just the sort of issues you mention in your post above. Now ask yourself how would a slightly dusty/smeary or cleaning swirled lens (with no filter) fare in the same 'into the sun' conditions? Perhaps a bit of ghosting, flare and haze there too?

As I said in my post above, I personally find it easier and less stressful to clean a UV filter than the front element of an expensive lens. However, it's down to personal choice at the end of the day, if you dislike UV filters then fair enough, but I don't think they're as bad as some people think they are, particularly if they're used with a lens hood... best of both worlds there. :)
 
Have a look at this @HoppyUK

https://www.ephotozine.com/article/hoya-hd-uv-filter-review-27788

Can you see an obvious loss of image quality from flare and ghosting from the 'best' UV filters in that test? Don't forget they're shot into the sun to encourage flare and haze, just the sort of issues you mention in your post above. Now ask yourself how would a slightly dusty/smeary or cleaning swirled lens (with no filter) fare in the same 'into the sun' conditions? Perhaps a bit of ghosting, flare and haze there too?

As I said in my post above, I personally find it easier and less stressful to clean a UV filter than the front element of an expensive lens. However, it's down to personal choice at the end of the day, if you dislike UV filters then fair enough, but I don't think they're as bad as some people think they are, particularly if they're used with a lens hood... best of both worlds there. :)

Yes, I've seen that before. I've done similar tests on dozens of filters for my work and the results are always the same. Street scenes at night are very prone to ghosting - here's a random example I found on google https://www.dpreview.com/files/p/articles/7333331953/P1030817-small.jpeg

On your link, if you can't see the enlarged flare patch at the top-right, the further loss of contrast around the branches, and the very obvious flare spots introduced along the diagonal by the filter, then you're not looking very closely. Less obvious is the veiling glare that you often get shooting into the light, reducing contrast over the whole image, but you'd most likely never know without doing a direct with/without comparison. I don't use expensive lenses for best image quality, only to throw it away with a filter, when it's completely unnecessary.

I use a protection filter if conditions require it, but otherwise not. Always a lens hood though.
 
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On your link, if you can't see the enlarged flare patch at the top-right, the further loss of contrast around the branches, and the very obvious flare spots introduced along the diagonal by the filter, then you're not looking very closely.
To be honest, I think there's little between the first two images, to the extent that I'd want to see some more photographs as a comparison before I made my mind up, particularly as it appears that the tree leaves and twigs have moved between the two shots (windy weather?) and the flare spots are in a slightly different place, possibly indicating that the sun has crept round a bit too between the two photos being taken? With some of the other test shots the difference appears to be fairly obvious and more than I'd expect from minor lighting changes. You didn't answer my question about a slightly dirty/hazy/cleaning swirled lens without a filter? Do you think that would have a similar effect on image quality when shooting in similar conditions?

As for night shots of street lights, I've seen similar tests done, once again, some filters appeared to cope better than others, but it's easy enough to take the filter off if issues like that are encountered, or when shooting into the sun and experiencing (unwanted) lens flare. I usually opt to keep a filter on my lens to protect it, I've weighed up the pros and cons, and the pros and cons of having a slightly dirty or hazy front lens element that I'm reluctant to risk cleaning (and/or a scratched or cleaning-swirled one that I've made a mess of cleaning!) and if that means I'll lose out very slightly on image quality in certain lighting conditions then so be it. I imagine a similar loss would come my way if I ended up with a dirty or swirled front lens element, and at least I can take the filter off if I'm shooting in challenging lighting conditions. That's the way I look at it. As I said, it's personal preference, just as yours is, and I'm sure there's been enough discussion on this and other forums about UV/protective filters for people to make an informed decision on what will best suit their own individual requirements. (y)
 
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To be honest, I think there's little between the first two images, to the extent that I'd want to see some more photographs as a comparison before I made my mind up, particularly as it appears that the tree leaves and twigs have moved between the two shots (windy weather?) and the flare spots are in a slightly different place, possibly indicating that the sun has crept round a bit too between the two photos being taken? With some of the other test shots the difference appears to be fairly obvious and more than I'd expect from minor lighting changes. You didn't answer my question about a slightly dirty/hazy/cleaning swirled lens without a filter? Do you think that would have a similar effect on image quality when shooting in similar conditions?

As for night shots of street lights, I've seen similar tests done, once again, some filters appeared to cope better than others, but it's easy enough to take the filter off if issues like that are encountered, or when shooting into the sun and experiencing (unwanted) lens flare. I usually opt to keep a filter on my lens to protect it, I've weighed up the pros and cons, and the pros and cons of having a slightly dirty or hazy front lens element that I'm reluctant to risk cleaning (and/or a scratched or cleaning-swirled one that I've made a mess of cleaning!) and if that means I'll lose out very slightly on image quality in certain lighting conditions then so be it. I imagine a similar loss would come my way if I ended up with a dirty or swirled front lens element, and at least I can take the filter off if I'm shooting in challenging lighting conditions. That's the way I look at it. As I said, it's personal preference, just as yours is, and I'm sure there's been enough discussion on this and other forums about UV/protective filters for people to make an informed decision on what will best suit their own individual requirements. (y)

Yes, there's certainly been plenty of debate around this, measured in square miles, and no doubt there will be plenty more. It's one of those topics. And you're right about the movement in clouds/trees/sun in the comparisons you linked. In practise, it's very hard to do exact and properly valid comparisons like that in the wild. I've had to do it a lot and it takes several minutes, no matter how quickly you can change filters, and things change - sometimes critically when clouds are involved - as there are there. But there's still plenty of evidence to go on.

The facts are:
- filters can and do degrade image quality, quite severely in some situations
- lens hoods do not, they can only improve image quality - sometimes quite dramatically
- lens hoods also offer good physical protection

The only question is, and when in possession of all the relevant information, do you think the pros of fitting a protection filter outweigh the cons. That's up to you, though I would suggest also heavily dependent on the shooting conditions.

I don't really understand your fear about dirty/hazy/swirly lenses. Lenses should always be kept perfectly clean and while a few specs of dust make no difference (rocket blower), any greasy swirls are death to image quality. They will flare badly, as glasses wearers will testify. Greasy fingerprints are the usual culprit, and a lens hood is very effective at keeping them away.

Don't be afraid of cleaning a lens - use a firm rub with a clean microfibre cloth, or wet optical wipes for nasty stuff like grease or sea spray (I use Zeiss, though rarely necessary). They can take it. You might want to test this on a multi-coated filter by taking a key or paper clip and scratching that around the extreme edge (where is can do no damage to affect the image). You may be amazed at how tough those coatings are.
 
.....so much to learn. Thanks again for all the replies.

Taking the thread to the next stage, what is the difference between a "petal" hood and a round hood?

Sorry for the questions, I was once told "there is no such thing as a stupid question....only a stupid answer"

Simon
 
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Petal hoods are plastic hoods with cut outs

hood.jpg
Round hoods are round! with no cut outs, and are made of plastic, rubber or metal. Rubber ones can be collapsible, to fold down to take up less room when not required.
 
Sorry, didn't explain myself very well.......when would you use a petal hood and why not a round hood?
 
Sorry, didn't explain myself very well.......when would you use a petal hood and why not a round hood?
Preference.

No real difference in performance.
Rubber hoods may provide a bit more protection against knocks.

What has not been mentioned are lens caps. They provide the best protection when you are not using your lens!
... but are annoying to remove and could lose you 'the' shot, hence using a hood for protection.
 
Thanks for the reply Richard, I'm glad we agree on the fact that it can be hard to do a comparison test in daylight conditions without constraints and limitations creeping in. Also, that lenses need to be kept crystal clear if they are to avoid the same (or worse) flare or haze issues as a clean filter. I've tried various methods of cleaning front lens elements over the years, old-fashioned lens tissue and cleaning fluid, a liquid that was painted on and allowed to form a plastic film over the surface of the lens element and was peeled off to hopefully take any residue and dirt with it, lens wipes, micro-fibre cloths, et al. Many years ago I managed to put a 2mm scratch on the surface of a 50mm lens while cleaning it using lens tissues (luckily near the edge but still potentially vulnerable to causing flare or refraction if the sun or other bright light caught it in the wrong way), despite using a blower brush there must have been a tiny piece of grit on the lens or on the lens tissue. I currently use filters and use a combination of rocket blower, 'huffed' breath and a filter-pen to clean them, which I find has worked well for me so far. If they happen to get a finger print or other spot of grease or oil on them (which can be in the air when visiting motor-sport events, steam rallies, vintage railways, etc.) then I give them a clean with a Zeiss lens wipe first (after rocket blowing) to get rid of that.

My lenses and filters are thus kept crystal clear and inspected before and after use to ensure they remain that way. As we seem to agree, filters may cause issues in certain circumstances; however, when shooting into bright sunlight the effects may still be very minor (if a high-quality filter is used) and could well be avoided by using a lens hood too (which should usually be used when shooting into sunlight anyway); if not, it's easy to whip the filter off until shooting in 'normal' conditions again. If doing night street photography the filter can be removed if ghosting is encountered, and when photographing the Aurora, where UV filters may cause concentric rings to appear in the image. So rather predictable and limited circumstances where discernible adverse image quality may be encountered when using a filter or having a lens that needs cleaning.

Filters are also needed to complete the weather sealing on some lenses, and this is specified by the manufacturer. Note that they say filter and not a lens hood for this purpose. Lens hoods do offer a defence against flare and flare-induced haze (which is their main purpose), they may also keep rain off the front element of the lens providing it's not swirling drizzle or wind driven, which will defeat the 'storm porch' effect of the hood. However, lens hoods can cause vignetting on wide angle lenses (as can filters if they aren't slim enough), and there is a limit to how far a hood can protrude from the front of the lens without appearing in the image. The less they protrude the less protection a hood will give, both against flare and dust, rain and dirt. So there are pros and cons to each. As I've said, both can be used to give the best (or worst!) of both worlds. :)

Sorry, didn't explain myself very well.......when would you use a petal hood and why not a round hood?

A petal type hood features cut-out sections to maximise the shielding effect whilst avoiding certain parts of the filter appearing in the image. These days they are quite commonly used on wide-angle lenses.
 
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Sorry, didn't explain myself very well.......when would you use a petal hood and why not a round hood?

The ideal lens hood forms a rectangle just outside the image area, for maximum shading. If you hold a petal-shaped hood up to your eye, those curves magically turn into a perfect rectangle - though often the ends are squared off so the lens will stand upside-down. Petal hoods are most beneficial with wide-angles, and should be be matt-black inside, but many cheap plastic hoods are quite shiny and can actually make things worse in strong side-lighting by reflecting bright light straight into the lens. I have a couple of these and have lined them with black self-adhesive felt (80p from Hobbycraft) and all is good. Canon hoods are lined with black flocking which is probably the best material.

It's worth mentioning that hoods for zoom lenses are only at their most effective at the shortest focal length setting. They should be much deeper as the lens is zoomed out, but then they'd protrude into the image at wide-angle settings. One or two lenses, eg Nikon 24-70, are designed with a reversed optical configuration which effectively creates a zooming lens hood and provides optimum shading at all settings. Equally, if you use a full-frame lens on a crop-sensor camera, the hood will not be optimum at any time. Some Sigma lenses come with a short extension to the hood for use on crop-format cameras.

Rectangular hoods are good (eg Leica) but expensive, not as robust, and cumbersome. Petal and round hoods can be reversed over the lens for convenient carrying. Bellows hoods are excellent, often seen on TV cameras, as they can be adjusted to match the focal length exactly.
 
Separating some variables, and trying a bit to to "Keep-It-Simple-Silly"
- Hoods stop unwanted light 'glare' falling on the lens, that may get in the camera.
- Filters 'sift' light that is heading into the camera, and modify that light some-how, either blocking light of a certain colour or wave-length or as polariser oscilating in a certain direction, or as some effect filters creatig prism reflections o rainbows or wot-not.
They are two very different devices doing quite different 'things' a far as your photo's go.. and .....

Protecting the front element against mechanical damage ISN'T something either are designed to do, or can do particularly well!!!

This is a peculiar side effect of using one, where a filter, as an extra 'window' infront of the element is likely to suffer any damage before the front element, and may be more easily replaced. A hood, doesn't provide any physical barrier infront of the front element, it may offer some deflection of any air-born artifact heading towards the front element to stop it striking that, or it may offer some sort of support buffer to stop you walking the front element into a brick wall or resting the camera front element down on a table, BUT, opportunity one may have to offer 'protection' is more restricted.

For 'protection' IF you feel you want it, a sky-light or UV filter can be helpful, as said, but is no substitute for good practice and common sense.

Otherwise, use filters for filtering....and in dig-domain, only a polariser and grads are really all that much use and offer effects that cant be created after the event in post-process. Use hoods for shading, and avoiding flare, where it may occur and be appropriate and or desirable to do so; this is the primary purpose of these devices.

For 'protection'.. first call is common sense and good handling practice... after that its about risk vs reward... ultimately, best protection to getting sand in the delicate bits of camera, let alone risking a scratched font element by the stuff, is to just not take it the beach! So if you take it to the beach, you accept risk, of which flying sand debris scratching front element is but one. You accept and manage that risk, or you just ignore it, and take what comes.. and a crash-hat wont stop you crashing, so sticking anything on the front of your lens is, like a crash hat, often just an excuse to ignore the risks, presuming it a invisible force field safety suit, not manage them!
 
Separating some variables, and trying a bit to to "Keep-It-Simple-Silly"
- Hoods stop unwanted light 'glare' falling on the lens, that may get in the camera.
- Filters 'sift' light that is heading into the camera, and modify that light some-how, either blocking light of a certain colour or wave-length or as polariser oscilating in a certain direction, or as some effect filters creatig prism reflections o rainbows or wot-not.
They are two very different devices doing quite different 'things' a far as your photo's go.. and .....

Protecting the front element against mechanical damage ISN'T something either are designed to do, or can do particularly well!!!

This is a peculiar side effect of using one, where a filter, as an extra 'window' infront of the element is likely to suffer any damage before the front element, and may be more easily replaced. A hood, doesn't provide any physical barrier infront of the front element, it may offer some deflection of any air-born artifact heading towards the front element to stop it striking that, or it may offer some sort of support buffer to stop you walking the front element into a brick wall or resting the camera front element down on a table, BUT, opportunity one may have to offer 'protection' is more restricted.

For 'protection' IF you feel you want it, a sky-light or UV filter can be helpful, as said, but is no substitute for good practice and common sense.

Otherwise, use filters for filtering....and in dig-domain, only a polariser and grads are really all that much use and offer effects that cant be created after the event in post-process. Use hoods for shading, and avoiding flare, where it may occur and be appropriate and or desirable to do so; this is the primary purpose of these devices.

For 'protection'.. first call is common sense and good handling practice... after that its about risk vs reward... ultimately, best protection to getting sand in the delicate bits of camera, let alone risking a scratched font element by the stuff, is to just not take it the beach! So if you take it to the beach, you accept risk, of which flying sand debris scratching front element is but one. You accept and manage that risk, or you just ignore it, and take what comes.. and a crash-hat wont stop you crashing, so sticking anything on the front of your lens is, like a crash hat, often just an excuse to ignore the risks, presuming it a invisible force field safety suit, not manage them!

I think you're missing some important points regarding filters vs hoods as protection. A lens dropped with a hood on, where it lands front end down will be protected by a hood to a certain extent. The hood becomes a crumple zone being made from either soft or brittle plastic (metal hoods need not apply). I have had the misfortune to drop two lenses and both have come away with cracked hoods but otherwise intact. It's not a miracle worker can save your bacon on occasion.

It will also stop stones or other projectiles from hitting the front element from trajectories other than straight on. And lastly, by putting some physical distance between the front element and the the front of the hood, the element can not be inadvertently scuffed on anything either in use or in transit. It can do all this without having any impact on image quality and possibly improving image quality in certain circumstances.

I see UV filters as a one trick pony in terms of protection. They offer protection against, scuffing and dust/water. They offer little or nothing in terms of impact protection because their metal rings will simply transfer any energy straight into the lens. Similarly the glass is so paper thin that any projectile that is actually going to damage the front element is going to go through the filter glass without even noticing it is there.The front element will then be impacted by a load of nice sharp shards of glass as filter shatters against it. So in some circumstance it could be doing more harm than good. And of course they can do nothing to improve IQ but can degrade it.

So for me, I'd only use a UV filter if I was shooting in an environment where I what to protect the front element from the environment (seascapes are a good example) and that's about it. The only time I won't use a hood is if there is some practical reason not to or I'm using a polariser and need access to adjust it.
 
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