Medium Format photography group - From "zero to hero!"

AshleyC said:
ok cheers. Doesn't that change the focal length of the lens though, and consequently the size of the subject in the frame? Its a problem i have with my 5x4, trying to get the right framing of the subject while getting it in focus.
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It works the other way round actually (I'm speaking of lenses in general, nothing RB/RZ specific). The size of the image is given by the ratio of the lens to subject and lens to image plane distances (strictly measurements made from the nodal planes of the lens). If you have a lens with a fixed focal length, you have to rack the lens in or out to focus, and the image size alters. If you want a constant image size while focusing, you have to change the focal length of the lens to focus (many (all?) lenses that use internal focusing do it this way; you can compare the image size at a close distance with identical (nominal) focal length lenses and see that some have a smaller image size close up). It's easy to demonstrate.
 
On the Mamiya RZ67 body, the shutter speeds are located on the left side of the body, shutter speeds are located on the RZ lenses, you can select mirror lock up and fire off the shutter with a cable release on the side of each Z lens etc... Bellows focusing on BOTH Mamiya RZ/RB 67 bodies.

Not sure if the RB67 is similar working with shutter speeds/apertures as the RZ67 (?), maybe someone could clarify etc....
 
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On the rb the body is a dumb box, shutter speed and aperture are set on the lens barrel. It has a nice feature where by you set the exposure and can turn the two in tandem so if you stop down a stop you also reduce the shutter speed a stop and vice a versa.
 
mothdust said:
Thanks Paul - might give it a go.
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Got some of my first results from Fomapan 100 here, it was a very sunny day so the results are pretty contrasty :)

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Adam
 
Those are really nice - thanks Adam, I think I'll pick up a couple of rolls! :)
 
Strappy said:
This thread has not made me want a Pentax 645N or NII. It really hasn't.

If I keep saying it, maybe it'll come true. :oops: :$
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Why wouldn't you want one.....even a six year old can use it (albeit with a somewhat unorthodox technique):

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TheGreatSoprendo said:
Why wouldn't you want one ...
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Because I've almost got my rampant GAS under control and need to use my 500C/M more instead of buying another camera!

Not my fault that the Pentax has useful features, the lenses produce lovely crisp detail and somehow it just looks 'right'. And I've never had a Pentax and, and, and ... :oops: :$
 
Funnily enough a Hassie is one of the few cameras I still desire. I tell myself the Rolleicord is all I need in 6x6 but I still get that nagging feeling...
 
It's the 150mm FA (with a step-up ring and polariser on the front). I did have a 200mm but it was a bit long for me (and a stop slower). I am tempted by the 120mm though I do have extension rings I rarely use so might not get much use from it in truth. My other lenses are the 35mm A and the 75mm FA.
 
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robhooley167 said:
@Woodsy

We demand a progress report!
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Yes indeed!

It's lovely. Small, light, looks good, easy to handle etc. Loving it.

I have spotted a potential issue though. In using the split image focusing it appears that the lens is unable to focus at infinity. Using distant (1 km+) horizon lines, the two split images never align. Now, for landscapes, this is likely never to be an issue, however it suggests that either there is a problem with the lens, or a problem with the mirror. The lens itself looks very well looked after with no signs of impact or damage, so it's more likely to be the mirror. This is fine to an extent, as A) the misalignment of the images at infinity focusing is fairly small, so I can get the focusing on nearer objects close enough coupled with the inevitable small aperture I'll be using, and B) the focusing on the film plane is likely to be fine once the DoF from a small aperture is taken into account.

Has anyone else had issues like this with either this, or a similar camera? If so, how's best to go about fixing it?

EDIT:

Having done some reading, it appears that this is not a common issue - I suppose this is a good and a bad thing simultaneously. I'll have a look at the focusing screen / mirror tonight and see if it's seated correctly.
 
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Woodsy said:
Yes indeed!

It's lovely. Small, light, looks good, easy to handle etc. Loving it.

I have spotted a potential issue though. In using the split image focusing it appears that the lens is unable to focus at infinity. Using distant (1 km+) horizon lines, the two split images never align. Now, for landscapes, this is likely never to be an issue, however it suggests that either there is a problem with the lens, or a problem with the mirror. The lens itself looks very well looked after with no signs of impact or damage, so it's more likely to be the mirror. This is fine to an extent, as A) the misalignment of the images at infinity focusing is fairly small, so I can get the focusing on nearer objects close enough coupled with the inevitable small aperture I'll be using, and B) the focusing on the film plane is likely to be fine once the DoF from a small aperture is taken into account.

Has anyone else had issues like this with either this, or a similar camera? If so, how's best to go about fixing it?
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I've had similar issues in the past, but the issue had nothing to do with either the mirror or the lens. I've found that the focusing screen is often the culprit in such cases, so make sure that the screen is sitting in the camera properly and facing the correct direction.
 
My first thought was the focusing screen positioning. I have a vague recollection of someone having a similar problem with another camera that was tracked down to the screen.

Probably a vague recollection of one of the posts referred to above while I was typing :D
 
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My first roll of Fomapan is hanging to dry! I panicked when it rinsed out green, haha - not had that before! After some quick Googling, apparently it's ok, something about a green layer getting washed away. All looking good so far, and wasn't too curly to get onto the holder, either. My only mistake was not putting enough chemicals in, as my brain was still calculating for a roll of 35mm, not 120, but I agitated it a bit more and gave it a little longer, so when I scan it tomorrow I'll see how it comes out.
 
Woodsy said:
Thanks for the advice chaps, good to know the issue is likely to be a simply fix!
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Not sure if its actually relevant to a Super but my first S2A had focus alignment problems, the focusing screen sits in a metal frame which in turn sits on a light seal gasket, the previous owner had replaced the seals with the wrong thickness of seal material so the focusing screen was sitting too high and making infinit y focus impossible.
Actually, my first EC had a focus problem too, same mechanics but the light seal had completely gone so the screen was sitting too low.
I've also had trouble with prism finders, though you don't mention you're using one and it would be easy to discount one way or the other.
 
AdzJackson said:
Cheers, I only have the 80mm at the moment, was looking at the 35mm and 55mm though. I think I'm going to give Peak a try, process only and scan myself at first. Black and white I'll do myself when I sort out a bigger developing tank, only got a 35mm size reel at the moment!

Went out this afternoon and ran the black and white and a roll of portra through it, really enjoyed the experience of using the viewfinder, we'll see how my focusing was once I get some rolls back! Few frustrating moments but I'll learn!

Adam
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35mm for £150 still available at Teddington in the link I posted earlier it would be rare to see one for less than that.
 
mothdust said:
My first roll of Fomapan is hanging to dry! I panicked when it rinsed out green, haha - not had that before! After some quick Googling, apparently it's ok, something about a green layer getting washed away.
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If it disturbs you, you can pre-soak the film with water at your dev temp for a couple of mins. Most of the dye will wash out with the soak. I tend to pre-soak most of my film (it also gets everything to the correct temperature. As I use Rodinal, I put the film in to soak, then mix up my dev and get my other bits and pieces sorted out then then empty the pre-soak. It seems to work well that way (i.e. I don't worry about timing the pre-soak, I just give it anywhere from 3 - 5 mins depending on how efficient I am being). It's not something you need to do - it seems to be one of those marmite things with developing, but I like not having my stop contaminated with dye, even if it does nothing!
 
Cuchulainn said:
If it disturbs you, you can pre-soak the film with water at your dev temp for a couple of mins. Most of the dye will wash out with the soak. I tend to pre-soak most of my film (it also gets everything to the correct temperature. As I use Rodinal, I put the film in to soak, then mix up my dev and get my other bits and pieces sorted out then then empty the pre-soak. It seems to work well that way (i.e. I don't worry about timing the pre-soak, I just give it anywhere from 3 - 5 mins depending on how efficient I am being). It's not something you need to do - it seems to be one of those marmite things with developing, but I like not having my stop contaminated with dye, even if it does nothing!
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Thats exactly what I do. Film goes into the tank and then gets filled with water. Then I'll measure out the Rodinal and add water to get a 1+50 mix. The Rodinal goes in one jug and then the stop and developer go next to it. After that's sorted out goes the water and in goes the Rodinal! I also don't time, just a few minutes to get rid of that green tinge.

I guess a pre soak might be more important with developers that aren't one shots?
 
Thanks Brian and Carl - it doesn't seem to have affected the end result at all, so I'll carry on doing it as I do at the moment :)
 
So then, following the issue I had with my 645 Super not focusing at infinity, I just wanted to take the opportunity to give Real Camera some credit for sorting it all out quickly and professionally.

The issue with the camera was the mirror break not bringing the mirror to rest in the correct position thereby yielding both the infinity focus issue and concomitantly a potential mismatch in the focus condition at the ground glass and the film plane (though this was never actually confirmed due to my not having put a whole roll through it by the time the camera was sent back).

Real camera basically offered a free repair under warranty or a replacement body with one they had in identical condition, as well as free return delivery to me. Really pleased with how, and how quickly, they have sorted this and I want to go as far as saying that anyone on the fence about buying from them should definitely come off on the side of buying and not going elsewhere. They've been brilliant.
 
In F&C.....WE ask the questions



soooo.......this small amount of money.....



what are we gonna spend it on..:)
 
In reality, I am not sure. I don't know how much it is and I have a long list of wants.

If there is the money, I want to get something like a Bronica Sq-A, or if there is even more, a Hassie...
 
Looking for a bit of advice.
RZ67, 2 x backs, 2 x lenses & a light meter. So since I got this lot in 1997 it has been stored & carried in an alloy case (one of those that open like a tool box)
Trouble is it's heavy and cumbersome to carry any distance. So I'm looking for a bargain camera bag that will hold this gear over the shoulder to enable me to venteure out with it even more. I have looked on eBay and there seem to be some good bargains from China but I'm unsure what size I'm going to need.

Anny pointers would be great and what do you use to carry your medium format kit?
 
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steveo_mcg said:
It has a nice feature where by you set the exposure and can turn the two in tandem so if you stop down a stop you also reduce the shutter speed a stop and vice a versa.
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Also known as an irritating feature depending on whether you want it to do it or not!


Steve.
 
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