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Well I was happy just using the ETRs with 75mm lens for about 20 years (have the RB with 65mm and 180mm), anyway in the last 2 years have bought three lenses and this morning decided to test them out for sharpness...erm but learnt the hard way in that when changing lenses and all hands over the body LOCK THE SHUTTER BUTTON as I wasted two frames :(

Too tip - I'll remember that!!
 
Too tip - I'll remember that!!

For those who don't know:- the RB and Etrs (and probably others) you have to load the shutter etc otherwise you can't change lenses....if storing (I'll have to check with the manual) and if it's the same as the RB, it's best to uncock the shutter (on the lens) un re-cock it to fit to the camera....phew.
 
As an aside, I'd like to say that Peak were excellent and will probably use them again next time! Sent off Sunday night Freepost, came back Friday(received at peak on weds). Quick turnaround and responded to my queries very quickly!
 
Assuming the camera and back are functioning properly, you can take the back off anytime you want provided the dark slide is inserted, as far as I'm aware.

Well I thought Shaheed meant........ if you take the back off can you change lenses without cocking the shutter.
 
you can take the back off anytime you want provided the dark slide is inserted
That's my understanding too.

if you take the back off can you change lenses without cocking the shutter.
I don't think so.

It's also my understanding, and I'd be happy to be corrected on this, you need to insert the dark slide before changing lenses.
 
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That's my understanding too.


I don't think so.

It's also my understanding, and I'd be happy to be corrected on this, you need to insert the dark slide before changing lenses.

I just meant that if you took the back off, regardless of whether you have to cock the shutter, you won't waste frames.
 
I just meant that if you took the back off, regardless of whether you have to cock the shutter, you won't waste frames.

Ah but easier to just lock the shutter button by turning it to the red dot.
 
I just meant that if you took the back off, regardless of whether you have to cock the shutter, you won't waste frames.

Ah but easier to just lock the shutter button by turning it to the red dot.

You two are beginning to confuse me and I'm pretty darn familiar with the workings of the various Bronica cameras.

If you don't want to accidentally take a picture, you have a few options with Bronicas: lock the shutter button, leave the dark slide in, or don't wind onto the next frame (after taking a shot) until you're ready to take the next photo.

Even if you accidentally do take a picture, however, if the lens cap is still on (e.g., tripped the shutter while camera in bag), you could just flip the multi-exposure lever, which will allow you to drop the mirror and cock the shutter when you wind the crank, but the film will not advance to the next frame, so you're still good.

As for cocking the shutter, which is in the lens, I always left the shutters in my lenses cocked 100% of the time and I never had any problems. Whether the shutter is cocked or not has nothing to do with the backs.
 
You two are beginning to confuse me and I'm pretty darn familiar with the workings of the various Bronica cameras.

If you don't want to accidentally take a picture, you have a few options with Bronicas: lock the shutter button, leave the dark slide in, or don't wind onto the next frame (after taking a shot) until you're ready to take the next photo.

Even if you accidentally do take a picture, however, if the lens cap is still on (e.g., tripped the shutter while camera in bag), you could just flip the multi-exposure lever, which will allow you to drop the mirror and cock the shutter when you wind the crank, but the film will not advance to the next frame, so you're still good.

As for cocking the shutter, which is in the lens, I always left the shutters in my lenses cocked 100% of the time and I never had any problems. Whether the shutter is cocked or not has nothing to do with the backs.

In the RB67 manual it says:- if storing the lens un cock the shutter...I assume it's because it's not good to leave the springs tensioned.
 
In the RB67 manual it says:- if storing the lens un cock the shutter...I assume it's because it's not good to leave the springs tensioned.

I think it says the same thing in the Bronica manuals, but I still haven't had any problems with this in practice as far as I'm aware.

It's possible that it's a bigger issue for the Mamiya as the RB67 is mechanical, whereas Bronicas have electronically-controlled shutter speeds.
 
I used a Bronica ETRS for years, no idea how many weddings and portraits i must have covered.
I could just pick it up and work effortlessly, so simple to use no mass of buttons and endless menus, it was like an extension of myself.

I came across the case last year with it all packed inside. When I saw it I was dying to get it out and hold it, caress it like a long lost love.
I opened the box, I had to sit down, my heart sank and I burst into tears.
It had been stored at a mates flat and the damp had got in to it, it was covered in a fine dust like coating and the paint was peeling off.
I must have cried for over an hour,
This thread has brought it all back. I feel a need to get another and go shoot portraits with it.
 
I used a Bronica ETRS for years, no idea how many weddings and portraits i must have covered.
I could just pick it up and work effortlessly, so simple to use no mass of buttons and endless menus, it was like an extension of myself.

I came across the case last year with it all packed inside. When I saw it I was dying to get it out and hold it, caress it like a long lost love.
I opened the box, I had to sit down, my heart sank and I burst into tears.
It had been stored at a mates flat and the damp had got in to it, it was covered in a fine dust like coating and the paint was peeling off.
I must have cried for over an hour,
This thread has brought it all back. I feel a need to get another and go shoot portraits with it.

Sorry to hear about your camera. That's just horrible.

If you've any medium format portraits, stick them in the portraits on film thread.

Look forward to seeing your work!
 
I used a Bronica ETRS for years, no idea how many weddings and portraits i must have covered.
I could just pick it up and work effortlessly, so simple to use no mass of buttons and endless menus, it was like an extension of myself.

I came across the case last year with it all packed inside. When I saw it I was dying to get it out and hold it, caress it like a long lost love.
I opened the box, I had to sit down, my heart sank and I burst into tears.
It had been stored at a mates flat and the damp had got in to it, it was covered in a fine dust like coating and the paint was peeling off.
I must have cried for over an hour,
This thread has brought it all back. I feel a need to get another and go shoot portraits with it.

Sad but it still might work....for me I couldn't care less what a camera or lens looks like as long as it works and produces results I want....as good as new cameras are inconvenient as you are always worried about scratches and dents.
 
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and if it's the same as the RB, it's best to uncock the shutter (on the lens) un re-cock it to fit to the camera....phew.

Why? There is no need to un-cock a lens for storage. The tension in an un-cocked spring is probably about 90% of the pressure of a cocked spring. The difference is negligible.


Steve.
 
Why? There is no need to un-cock a lens for storage. The tension in an un-cocked spring is probably about 90% of the pressure of a cocked spring. The difference is negligible.


Steve.

Well if you want to argue with the bloke who wrote the manual...I'm just the messenger. ;) But it depends on how much a spring is stressed for it to lose it's properties and then it could be months or 100 years.
 
Sad but it still might work....for me I couldn't care less what a camera or lens looks like as long as it works and produces results I want....as good as new cameras are inconvenient as you are always worried about scratches and dents.

I know what you mean but I seem to remember the lenses are also full of fungus :(
Should soften the image nicely though.
 
Sorry to hear about your camera. That's just horrible.

If you've any medium format portraits, stick them in the portraits on film thread.

Look forward to seeing your work!

I have a few 20x16 prints knocking around I would have to copy those.
Cant scan negs as my scanner will not work with Win7 or Win10 - No drivers :(
 
Well if you want to argue with the bloke who wrote the manual...I'm just the messenger. ;) But it depends on how much a spring is stressed for it to lose it's properties and then it could be months or 100 years.

Perhaps if you're going to store it for years (or many months) but just swapping between lenses, there is no point.


Steve.
 
I know what you mean but I seem to remember the lenses are also full of fungus :(
Should soften the image nicely though.

Well get the lenses out into the fresh air and sunlight ASAP that should stop further growth and if you store in dry conditions it shouldn't get worse.....fungus on the front lens is less important than fungus on the rear one.
 
Perhaps if you're going to store it for years (or many months) but just swapping between lenses, there is no point.


Steve.

Well guys selling on the bay could be selling lenses cocked that they have had for say 15 years...what difference that makes is anybody's guess. :eek:
 
So, I've been on hols this week before starting a new job. In one of my favourite places -Northumberland. Made me realise that my next investment should be a light meter (unless I can locate my l308 at home) as I've been carrying the d800 and Bronica around. My main issue was not trusting the meter on the iPhone but I believe the histogram/meter on the d800.

Got sick of carrying them both today....so ditched the d800! I'll see how badly exposed the pics are when they come back[emoji85][emoji85][emoji85]

IMG_1470342536.921225.jpg

Need to get a more comfy strap - any suggestions?
 
I wouldn't worry about the iPhone meter. I use it for shooting velvia slide film which has pretty much no latitude and haven't had any incorrect exposures yet (other than user error!)
 
I wouldn't worry about the iPhone meter. I use it for shooting velvia slide film which has pretty much no latitude and haven't had any incorrect exposures yet (other than user error!)

Maybe I just don't trust myself then!!!!
 
I have that on my d800 and my daughters d90[emoji106]

How do you attach the strap to the camera. The Bronica strap has the metal triangle bits on the end and the optech didn't look straightforward to attach!

If you look at the range of connectors they have them for all MF cameras you choose the type for either Hasselblad,Bronica,etc.

I use them on all my MF cameras so I have three types of connectors and just two straps,it is an excellent system.
 
I have that on my d800 and my daughters d90[emoji106]

How do you attach the strap to the camera. The Bronica strap has the metal triangle bits on the end and the optech didn't look straightforward to attach!

Another Optech user - i went for the "uni-loop adaptor" connectors onto the metal triangular things - I've basically 2 of the main straps, and different "ends" for my main cameras, but the uni-loop ones are so easy to remove and swap to any camera with a strap loop, they serve multiple duty...

IMG_0052.jpg
 
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I didn't realise you could get different connectors.

Both the straps I have came with those uni-loops
 
So, I've been on hols this week before starting a new job. In one of my favourite places -Northumberland. Made me realise that my next investment should be a light meter (unless I can locate my l308 at home) as I've been carrying the d800 and Bronica around. My main issue was not trusting the meter on the iPhone but I believe the histogram/meter on the d800.

Got sick of carrying them both today....so ditched the d800! I'll see how badly exposed the pics are when they come back
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Doesnt the film packet still have those little pictograms on the inside that show exposures for different conditions?
Its based on the sunny 16 rule.
 
Doesnt the film packet still have those little pictograms on the inside that show exposures for different conditions?
Its based on the sunny 16 rule.

The ilford fp did I think, but I can't remember. I did end up mentally using the sunny 16 rule as a check. The portra 5 pack certainly didn't as I only had the foil wrappers!!

I guess because I learnt on digital (despite knowing exposure triangle etc) I never really had to worry too much about it (that looks a bit dark, histogram skewed to the left, I'll just reshoot that and add in some exposure compensation/slow shutter speed/open up the aperture). One of the main reasons for shooting film (apart from the quality) was to feel more part of the process (yes you can shoot manual on digital but it's not the same).

Found something at home that I wish I'd have thought about earlier though[emoji85]
 
IMG_1470422992.536484.jpg

So I've had this in my office for a couple of years. Bought it for when I was learning to use flash......hence why it didn't occur to me to use it for film. Stupid is as stupid does.

It's in like new condition as it's barely been used!!

Time to rtfm as I've forgotten how to use it!
 
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So I've had this in my office for a couple of years. Bought it for when I was learning to use flash......hence why it didn't occur to me to use it for film. Stupid is as stupid does.

It's in like new condition as it's barely been used!!

Time to rtfm as I've forgotten how to use it!
LOL :)
 
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