My thoughts from today.

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casfan

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Edit My Images
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I need 10 good pics for my OU course assignment on the 10th dec, Got a few marco shots that I like, but need some variety, so set off to the local nature reserve, with my new second hand d 40 and kit lens 18-55, took some nothing shots of the pond came out of the hide with camera still set on manual and a stoat pops up in front of me I fire off 2 shots before he disappears but settings were wrong. So blurred. The birds seamed too far off to shot with the 55 lens I just couldn’t get close enough.
Got back in the car and a rabbit flew out in front of me followed by a stoat, again grab camera and fire of a shot thorough the wind screen again not good results.
Then go over to high force waterfall, what a pain it is getting the exposure right, I could get the rocks and water ok but the sky would go a grey colour, or I could get a blue sky and rubbish for ground.

So couple of questions, how do people get really sharp close ups of animals/birds.
And how the do I sort out the exposures?

TIA
 
casfan said:
So couple of questions, how do people get really sharp close ups of animals/birds.
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I think the really good wild life photographers have a lot of patience and time coupled with a knowledge of the behaviour of the animal they are shooting. And of course a longer lens helps, but I think you know that.
 
Good fieldcraft is the answer. You can't expect to get the camera out and just take good wildlife shots. You need to develop an affinity for the subject. Obviously a longer lens or a macro lens will help but unless you can get in the right place the longest lens in the world won't make a difference.
 
What is the criteria for your 10 shots, if it is anything, then think about themes, architecture modern and old, portrait, flowers ( try the local florist this time of year ), macro, interiors, seascape, landscape, still life setups like the Old Masters used to paint. That should give you some ideas.
 
Quite a few of us have done the OU course, which part are you on?

To answer the exposures question......filters. A filter that is darker at the top will hold back the exposure in the sky so it balances. Called a graduated ND (neutral density). They also come in all sorts of colours but an ND or two should sort you out.
 
Thanks im on the final stretch the 10 photos to submit for my final assignment, which can be anything just have to show different techniques and things I have learned from the course. It did recommend that you don’t put up all the same kind of stuff. I mean I like macro so got a few of them but need to get some other stuff to show variety. Thinking of some kind of portrait shots? Only have the D40 and kit lens so could be interesting.
 
the average safari/wildlife stuff from africa which may take 3 hours to show over three weeks...can take years to shoot...not just because of seasonal rain...
i think its a bit like roulette...you have to have your marker in the right spot...ready!

and the programme about the snow leopard...the guys sat in a freezing hut for up to 3 months...till finally...they got the shots

zoo's/safari parks are the only places imho where one can kid on a bit about wildlife photography
 
casfan said:
Thanks im on the final stretch the 10 photos to submit for my final assignment, which can be anything just have to show different techniques and things I have learned from the course.
Click to expand...

Just out of interest (and concern) if this is your final assignment one assumes you have been doing the course for some time. If it is a photography course would you not be expected to understand about exposure before you reach the final? If you are asking people here about how to get that right then it's not a course I would want to recommend.

I might have it completely wrong so forgive me if I am missing something.
 
Its a short course, 10 weeks at level1, just doing it as a break from the level 3 database (mind numbing ) courses i normally do.
Would i recomend it well not for most people on here. Its mainly about sharing images. TBH I have learned more from on here then there :)
 
ND filters can be very useful for flat horizons but they darken anything sticking up, which is a PITA.

It is very often impossible to get both the land and sky correctly exposed in a single shot. The camera cannot handle such a broad exposure range. The solution (if you have time) is to take two (or more) shots at the same aperture, one timed to expose the sky correctly, the other to expose the other parts of the scene. The camera should be on a tripod. The photos can then be merged together in photoshop (or some other program) to give a well-balanced result.
 
Ah ok I understand. Sorry if I sounded negative (sic).

In which case I agree with what others said. The skill in getting good wildlife pictures is knowing where the wildlife is going to be and waiting very patiently.

With the waterfall and exposure issue - can you shoot the waterfall from an angle that doesn't include the sky? That way you meter off the water to get that part right and the rest shouldn't be too far off. Your only alternative is taking more than one picture and blending in photoshop or using grad filters.
 
i'm doing the same course... hard to pick final ten and have done my head in so far.. so not even looking at them until after the manchester meet.. (fingers crossed I can get a couple of new shots good enough to submit)

they want to see a range of styles and techniques.. but as far as I can see will mark down if all of the same type, eg.. indoors shots or are all from the same session..

have enjoyed the course but you get no feedback from tutors at all.. you upload images to an open studio and are meant to give/receive comments and critique with others in your group each week.... not good when you get little or no feedback.. or 'nice shot' etc :suspect:

good luck with it casfan.. are you on the flickr group for it?
 
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