New To Film: Olympus OM-1n

Born On A Different Cloud

Born On A Different Cloud

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I'm always up for a fresh challenge and never having taken a single film photograph, I thought it was about time I did what I've been saying I'm going to do for the past two years and get talking some film shots.

So yesterday, the local charity shop put out a wonderful display of cameras and I spotted the Olympus. Having doing some research a few years back I remember it being quite well thought of and the similarities to the Leica... (naughty Olympus!!) haha

Im going to pick up a new battery and some film this weekend. I was trying to find the age of it - I know they were first released in 72 - however I was wondering if there is anyway to check the serial number? 1653052 - had a look but not been able to find anything to pin point its age. Its in cracking condition - not been out of its leather case by the looks.

Anything else anyone can tell me about it at all? tips, tricks past experiences using these... Thank you all.
 
The OM1 takes a mercury type battery, the sale of which was banned a number of years ago, so you won't be able to get an original one. Most modern equivalent batteries that will fit are of a higher voltage and will usually result in inaccurate meter readings. There are a few options to get round this, which include using Wein air cells (not cheap and only last a few months); buying a specially made battery converter so you can use a modern alkali or silver oxide button battery; forgetting about the in-camera meter and using a separate light meter (or a light meter smartphone app); or sending your camera to a good camera technician to get it converted to take a modern equivalent.

If I were in your position I'd probably buy an air cell and put a roll of film through it to see if the camera works properly and I enjoyed using it. If the answer to both was yes, then I'd get a quote for a full 'CLA' camera service and battery conversion from a good camera technician such as Miles Whitehead (MW Camera Repairs) and send my OM 1 to them if I thought the price was right for me. Hope this is useful, best of luck and welcome to the wonderful world of film photography. :)
 
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Welcome,

This is a quick cheap fix so that you can use cheaper hearing aid batteries at 1.4 volts.

http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-111.html

Sorry,but,for some reason would not hyper-link. Just copy and paste into google.
 
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If you are a 'tight-wad' like me you can use a zinc-air hearing aid battery ( can get a 6pack at Poundland) and an o-ring or small washer round it to stop it rattling. The batteries do not last more than a week or two so I take them out when I finish a film
 
Well it does differ from camera to camera,but, between 6-9 months, that is why the conversion I have posted #5 is the better route.

Maybe no longer battery life,but, 10% of the cost.
 
Quendil said:
I am going to get one of these for my OM1 and Praktica cameras http://www.smallbattery.company.org.uk/sbc_mr9_adapter.htm
You can use the 386 cell batteries with them so they will last longer than the air ones
Click to expand...

I have one of those. I don't use it in my OM-1 as I've had it converted to use 1.5v cells, but it works well in my 35RC.

@Born On A Different Cloud Great camera choice BTW. I love my OM-1. The viewfinder is awesome, the camera rakes lovely photos, and it looks the business too. :)
 
Mr Badger said:
The OM1 takes a mercury type battery, the sale of which was banned a number of years ago, so you won't be able to get an original one. Most modern equivalent batteries that will fit are of a higher voltage and will usually result in inaccurate meter readings. There are a few options to get round this, which include using Wein air cells (not cheap and only last a few months); buying a specially made battery converter so you can use a modern alkali or silver oxide button battery; forgetting about the in-camera meter and using a separate light meter (or a light meter smartphone app); or sending your camera to a good camera technician to get it converted to take a modern equivalent.

If I were in your position I'd probably buy an air cell and put a roll of film through it to see if the camera works properly and I enjoyed using it. If the answer to both was yes, then I'd get a quote for a full 'CLA' camera service and battery conversion from a good camera technician such as Miles Whitehead (MW Camera Repairs) and send my OM 1 to them if I thought the price was right for me. Hope this is useful, best of luck and welcome to the wonderful world of film photography. :)
Click to expand...
The OM1 uses a system of centering the needle in the viewfinder. This suggests that it is a bridge circuit type meter which means that when the needle is centred there is no current flow through the meter. No current flow means that the exact voltage will not matter. I certainly use a 1.5 v battery in my OM1 and get excellent exposures.
 
Born On A Different Cloud said:
I was trying to find the age of it - I know they were first released in 72 - however I was wondering if there is anyway to check the serial number? 1653052 - had a look but not been able to find anything to pin point its age.
Click to expand...
Dating Olympus cameras is simple. open the back and remove the pressure plate. This is more simple than it sounds as it is held loosely in place on four rivets and it will just pull off. On the back of the pressure plate are some digits. The first is the factory code - ignore this. The 2nd number represents the last digit of the year of assembly (e.g. 5 = 1975, 0 = 1980). The 3rd number or letter representing the month of assembly, 1-9 for Jan-Sep, X, Y, Z for Oct-Dec. For example; N2Y = November 1972. As the OM1 was introduced in 1972, the last digit of then year is all you need.
 
Have sent two OM1's, an MD & an N to MW Camera Repairs for CLA's & battery mods & the cost was £50 each. Recommend a CLA as Olympus put foam light seals near the prism & in time they rot & ruin the silvering. Remember him saying the MD was caught just in time. Could really feel a difference in them when they came back compared to before.

Will be a third OM1 off to him in time. Bagged an early non MD one off ebay last week. The foam has rotted & ruined the prism silvering, got a bid on a broken OM10 for that & it is jammed, but it should live again. Just wanted an early one.

I also have a Praktica MTL5 intended for the same banned mercury battery. That has a bridge circuit & meters accurately off of an alkaline battery.
 
john.margetts said:
Dating Olympus cameras is simple. open the back and remove the pressure plate. This is more simple than it sounds as it is held loosely in place on four rivets and it will just pull off. On the back of the pressure plate are some digits. The first is the factory code - ignore this. The 2nd number represents the last digit of the year of assembly (e.g. 5 = 1975, 0 = 1980). The 3rd number or letter representing the month of assembly, 1-9 for Jan-Sep, X, Y, Z for Oct-Dec. For example; N2Y = November 1972. As the OM1 was introduced in 1972, the last digit of then year is all you need.
Click to expand...

Cracking knowledge mate. I’ll have a look in to that.
 
Well the good news is.... I went in to The real camera company in Manchester as I was eager to start using it.... picked up a battery, three roles of film (ilford 400 b&w, some Kodak colour and ilford 3200 for when I shoot live show)

The needle is working fine and the camera is really nice to use too. Having never shot film before, I’m looking forward to getting to grips with it. :)
 
john.margetts said:
No current flow means that the exact voltage will not matter. I certainly use a 1.5 v battery in my OM1 and get excellent exposures.
Click to expand...

This is interesting!

Makes one wonder if the "conversions" are nothing but a gimmick:thinking:
 
john.margetts said:
The OM1 uses a system of centering the needle in the viewfinder. This suggests that it is a bridge circuit type meter which means that when the needle is centred there is no current flow through the meter. No current flow means that the exact voltage will not matter. I certainly use a 1.5 v battery in my OM1 and get excellent exposures.
Click to expand...
And yet I've read that people have found that 1.5v batteries cause incorrect readings in their OM 1 - and as the error varies with the light it's not possible to compensate for this across the range by changing the ISO/ASA setting. Perhaps you're lucky, or as a long-shot, perhaps your camera's meter is 'out' but the voltage increase sets it right for some reason? Or did Olympus change the circuit at some time?

As I said above, Wein air cells only last a few months, so are OK to test kit with but would be an expensive long-term option if you're going to keep and regularly use the camera.

In my view, a battery converter would be worth thinking about if you're likely to buy another camera that uses the same type of obsolete mercury cell battery, as you could swap it between them. However, if you're only likely to use the OM1 then I think the best long-term option would be to have it cleaned, serviced, converted and adjusted. That way the moving parts will be properly lubricated (as old oil and grease tends to set hard after a couple of decades) and the camera should be good for many more years to come. If a battery conversion is done at the same time as a 'CLA' by someone like Miles Whitehead then I doubt it would cost as much as a battery converter?

If someone bought an old car that hadn't been used for years, the first thing they'd probably do is change all the oils and put fresh grease on any relevant moving parts. I doubt they'd just put it on the road as they'd found it and start driving round in it! However, when people buy an old camera with dozens of moving parts in it they seem to just use it without a second thought... until it jams or something starts squeaking.
 
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Asha said:
This is interesting!

Makes one wonder if the "conversions" are nothing but a gimmick:thinking:
Click to expand...
I doubt someone like Miles Whitehead would be doing conversions for people if it was genuinely not needed for some reason.
 
Mr Badger said:
I doubt someone like Miles Whitehead would be doing conversions for people if it was genuinely not needed for some reason.
Click to expand...

Agreed that Miles is not someone to take money off folk for no good reason but given what john said about voltages…………
 
Asha said:
Agreed that Miles is not someone to take money off folk for no good reason but given what john said about voltages…………
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I did say that it 'suggests' to me that the OM1 uses a bridge circuit. I have not disassemble the circuit to find out for sure.
 
Asha said:
Agreed that Miles is not someone to take money off folk for no good reason but given what john said about voltages…………
Click to expand...
It's not what I've read elsewhere though, so, if ownership experience differs, it would be interesting to find out why. (y)
 
Another point regarding the OM1 is that it's completely manual so you can use it without the meter if need be as they're only linked to get your exposure reading, not to control the shutter speed.
 
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