Nikon D750 & D780

Have that tiger and buzzard gone? Is it safe for the sheep to come out again? :D

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Happy New Year to you all guys.

May not post much here in the New Year as considering trading my Nikon kit in for Fuji kit to take me in a different direction… just something about them I can’t stay away from. :D

You’re a boy lol Happy New Year mate.
 
Hi people, I’m in a bit of bother and you guys may be able to help me.

I’m currently in South Africa on holiday and my D750 is playing up. Despite a hard reset of the camera, my single AF point is refusing to budge on both my 20-70 and 70-200 lenses. I’ve tried cycling through AF-S, AF-C and AF-A and all the various other number of focus point options and it’s not doing anything.

Any ideas? Have wiped the lens contacts too. Can’t think of anything else to try!

In a mass panic as we’re about to drive the garden route!
 
Hi people, I’m in a bit of bother and you guys may be able to help me.

I’m currently in South Africa on holiday and my D750 is playing up. Despite a hard reset of the camera, my single AF point is refusing to budge on both my 20-70 and 70-200 lenses. I’ve tried cycling through AF-S, AF-C and AF-A and all the various other number of focus point options and it’s not doing anything.

Any ideas? Have wiped the lens contacts too. Can’t think of anything else to try!

In a mass panic as we’re about to drive the garden route!
Hi,
I would take a guess and say that you have the camera on lock, where you got the OK button (right hand side of screen) you have a switch, you see the letter "L" this is LOCK, turn the dial to the dot.
Hope this helps.
 
Hi,
I would take a guess and say that you have the camera on lock, where you got the OK button (right hand side of screen) you have a switch, you see the letter "L" this is LOCK, turn the dial to the dot.
Hope this helps.

Oh you little beauty. All fixed. Thank you so much. I was about to drive to Port a Elizabeth to buy a new body! Didn’t even know that lever existed. Thank you!!!
 
Oh you little beauty. All fixed. Thank you so much. I was about to drive to Port a Elizabeth to buy a new body! Didn’t even know that lever existed. Thank you!!!
To be honest, I have read this a few times on the FB D750 group, its actually funny reading what people put (mostly Americans/Canadians) but its worth the read.
Good luck with your holiday.
 
I know mate, grass is always greener and all that, having second thoughts already. Really need to keep off social media to stop this GAS! :rolleyes::p

Happy New Year to you and yours too mate. :cool:

Happy New Year to you all too.

So...other than slightly smaller (I don’t ever get that one myself as there’s not much in it with a pro lens) and a nostalgic ‘feel’ of them, what other benefits will you gain?

Will you lose money in the switch? How about a special lens for the current system?
 
I have both 750and XT-20.
Fuji has smaller form factor but it is APSC against full frame.
As a hobbyist I enjoy using both but would only consider giving up Nikon for another full frame.
 
Happy New Year to you all too.

So...other than slightly smaller (I don’t ever get that one myself as there’s not much in it with a pro lens) and a nostalgic ‘feel’ of them, what other benefits will you gain?

Will you lose money in the switch? How about a special lens for the current system?

In real terms I lose nothing other than a bit of a weight saving for both lenses and body... IQ I still believe I lose out a little, I still think the D750 files are better than the Fuji files - indeed my Df files are better than the Fuji files. Anyway, took the D750 out today and it's just such a great camera, I think it'll end up staying. Next year, I really want to move to more landscape/urbanscape type stuff to get out and shoot more, so I may re-align some of the lenses I have, sell the Df which I really like but (don't really need) and look at the 70-200 f4 which is light enough to carry and shoot with (for me)!
 
In real terms I lose nothing other than a bit of a weight saving for both lenses and body... IQ I still believe I lose out a little, I still think the D750 files are better than the Fuji files - indeed my Df files are better than the Fuji files. Anyway, took the D750 out today and it's just such a great camera, I think it'll end up staying. Next year, I really want to move to more landscape/urbanscape type stuff to get out and shoot more, so I may re-align some of the lenses I have, sell the Df which I really like but (don't really need) and look at the 70-200 f4 which is light enough to carry and shoot with (for me)!

Sounds like you need a project and shoot more of what you enjoy, the gear probably won’t change your enjoyment either way. I’ll give drop you a line later.

Still haven’t been to the Lickey’s, must get around to it.
 
Sounds like you need a project and shoot more of what you enjoy, the gear probably won’t change your enjoyment either way. I’ll give drop you a line later.

Still haven’t been to the Lickey’s, must get around to it.

Yep, for sure. My aim is to shoot a lot more and make time for me to shoot. I quite like the idea of a project… sounds intriguing. :D
 
Saw this over xmas, thought it might be useful to some people on here.

Can't say I've noticed it, but definitely worth a quick check later. Not sure if it would effect the final image or just the way the image is rendered to the screen in LR?

Lightroom CC and grainy photos
https://forums.adobe.com/thread/2398916

If it does affect me i'm not sure if i'll turn it off, they could fix it later and introduce the issue again by disabling?
 
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really like that.

What are they sat on, is the chair edited out in post?

He’s sat on a stool Mark, if you look closely you can see the top of it. She’s just sat on his knee. I dropped the background a bit to lose that to be truthful but largely the overall exposure isn’t too far from OOC, just dodged the highlights a bit to provide more contrast.
 
GAS alert...so I have shot almost everything with the sigma 35...mostly family shots, kids, travel but getting a bit bored. Any suggestions for something a bit different?
 
Saw this over xmas, thought it might be useful to some people on here.

Can't say I've noticed it, but definitely worth a quick check later. Not sure if it would effect the final image or just the way the image is rendered to the screen in LR?

Lightroom CC and grainy photos
https://forums.adobe.com/thread/2398916

If it does affect me i'm not sure if i'll turn it off, they could fix it later and introduce the issue again by disabling?

I get black images in develop now with gpu acceleration. Really need to look at other editors if this is how LR continues.
 
Anyone know if the NIKON ML-L3 Infrared IR Wireless Remote Shutter Control works with the D750?

Got a wired one but fancy a wireless option.
 
I get black images in develop now with gpu acceleration. Really need to look at other editors if this is how LR continues.
Odd, what system are you using as I don't get this? (I'm using Mac running OS Sierra)

Anyone know if the NIKON ML-L3 Infrared IR Wireless Remote Shutter Control works with the D750?

Got a wired one but fancy a wireless option.
It does, I used one at first but found it limiting (no options for continuous shooting, bulb, and you have to watch line of sight) so bought one of these instead and have been more than happy

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pixel-Wire...9&sr=8-1&keywords=wireless+shutter+Nikon+d750
 
I've a few studio shoots to do and finished a few of my niece and nephew from the other day. Here's the together shot.

38557411105_364484b9b7_b.jpg


The others are here if interested:

https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/more-home-studio-more-added.670024/
Can i ask a question regarding the setup of this?

How do you go about determining the exposure for this type of shot. Obviously you're fighting the ambient light. So do you always start out at ISO100?

My initial thought process is:
ISO100
F8 (2 people, f5ish for 1 person)
Shutter 1/250

It would be good to know your thought process, where you start with the exposure etc
 
Don't forget to turn the wireless remote on in the menu otherwise you be wondering why it's not triggering the camera (p.193 of the manual).

Cheers mate. Wouldn’t have even thought about that and would have been screwing at both :D
 
Can i ask a question regarding the setup of this?

How do you go about determining the exposure for this type of shot. Obviously you're fighting the ambient light. So do you always start out at ISO100?

My initial thought process is:
ISO100
F8 (2 people, f5ish for 1 person)
Shutter 1/250

It would be good to know your thought process, where you start with the exposure etc
There's a variety of methods that you can use. Arguably to get the most accurate you should use a lightmeter placed next to the subjects face, take a test shot and then the light meter will tell you the settings depending on what you have dialled in. Remember that below the sync speed shutter speed won't (in theory) affect the exposure (of the flash/strobe). The way I've seen it done in studio is that they've set the strobe power, set the ISO and shutter fired a test shot and the lightmeter will tell you what aperture to use. Some people set the camera settings and then adjust the strobe/flash power accordingly. I do the latter. I don't have a light meter so I take a test shot, review it then adjust flash power as required. This is a case when the histogram is very useful. Another tip that I was given was to shoot in black and white (as it won't affect RAW) as you can see the highlights and shadows better. I've not experimented enough to know if I prefer this method or not.
 
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There's a variety of methods that you can use. Arguably to get the most accurate you should use a lightmeter placed next to the subjects face, take a test shot and then the light meter will tell you the settings depending on what you have dialled in. Remember that below the sync speed shutter speed won't (in theory) affect the exposure. The way I've seen it done in studio is that they've set the strobe power, set the ISO and shutter fired a test shot and the lightmeter will tell you what aperture to use. Some people set the camera settings and then adjust the strobe/flash power accordingly. I do the latter. I don't have a light meter so I take a test shot, review it then adjust flash power as required. This is a case when the histogram is very useful. Another tip that I was given was to shoot in black and white (as it won't affect RAW) as you can see the highlights and shadows better. I've not experimented enough to know if I prefer this method or not.
How do light meters work when you're killing the ambient light? or doesn't it matter as it's metering the light at that specific spot?
 
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