Nikon D7xxx owners thread

BillN_33 said:
as Rob indicated

I shoot Manual mode 95% of the time and knowing the ISO info constantly is really important to me - or maybe it is something that I am used to seeing and it feels strange without the same set up as the D750 ............... especially, as far as i can see the UI is similar apart from this ........... and I move between the D750 and now the D7200 quite a lot at the same time........ I welcome the up to 1/8000th sec on the D7200 over the 1/4000th sec on the D750 ..... really strange that they limit the D750 to this ...
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But why is it important? What are you going to do if the ISO goes too high? Not take the shot? If you have the aperture set and the shutter speed you require, then there isn't much else you can do about it.
 
minnnt said:
But why is it important? What are you going to do if the ISO goes too high? Not take the shot? If you have the aperture set and the shutter speed you require, then there isn't much else you can do about it.
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Do you take bird shots David?

what am I going to do - adjust the settings, (with the two control wheels), on the fly to take the next similar shot ....... on a tripod

An example
if I can get away with f8 at an ISO setting that I am happy with OK ....... if not I will roll it back to f5.6 ........ or whatever ....... same with the shutter speed ... start at 1/1000th sec - or whatever depending on the conditions and then roll it back or forwards - I have initial preferences depending on the type of shot/conditions/ and also anticipations, (what is the bird going to do?)

The indicative ISO can vary significantly 1 inch either side of the bird and more importantly on the bird if you are using spot exposure - (at the same Av and S settings)
half press shutter - move slightly on bird - I want to see if the ISO changes and I want to see this in the VF

I do not trust what I don't see
 
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minnnt said:
Why not just use F5.6 so that the ISO is lower anyway?
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that was a "for example" situation

I could use f4 or f2.8 then it would be even lower ...... which I do sometimes and don't some other

I could just put it on the fully automatic setting .. and bugger bothering about the settings - or I could just get a point and shoot zoom

or is your question why would I use f8 and not f5.6 or f4 or f2.8 or even f1.8 ... or even f32

you are just arguing for the sake of it

I'm out of this ..... and ignore list
 
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Finally settled on a lens, I'm going to ask Father Christmas for the Sigma 18-35mm F1.8. :D no thanks to @minnnt

I'll have to PX my 18-200 to help fund it, but at least I've managed to convince her indoors.

I've noticed you can buy a dock for it for fine tuning. Would anyone recommend I get this? I'd have thought it'd be pretty spot on straight out of the box - anyone with the other Art lenses got the dock? Worth the fiddling about or not?
 
minnnt said:
Haha. You won't regret it.

The dock is handy for updating firmware and tinkering with the AF but mine was fine. The D7200 has fine tune anyway so I'm not sure if it's really needed.
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Still got your dock?
 
minnnt said:
Haha. You won't regret it.

The dock is handy for updating firmware and tinkering with the AF but mine was fine. The D7200 has fine tune anyway so I'm not sure if it's really needed.
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Good point, well made!

I'll assume, for now, it's going to be sweet as and save myself 40 notes. Roll on Christmas! :)
 
Be interesting to see what you think of it, if I ever have any spare cash it'd be hard to pick between the 18-35 or the 24 1.4 Art, I reckon I'd like that one as well. I might be interested in your 18-200 if you've still got it!
 
I'm half tempted by the 18-35 too. I love my 24-70 but every now and then want a little wider with good IQ.
 
banjokat said:
Be interesting to see what you think of it, if I ever have any spare cash it'd be hard to pick between the 18-35 or the 24 1.4 Art, I reckon I'd like that one as well. I might be interested in your 18-200 if you've still got it!
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I do, I was planning on PX'ing it for the Sigma.

In a previous conversation with LCE, they've quoted me between £250 and £300 based on condition (they haven't seen it yet). If you're interested, I'll post a thread with pics in the classifieds (no obligation, obviously)...
 
Chuckoir said:
I do, I was planning on PX'ing it for the Sigma.

In a previous conversation with LCE, they've quoted me between £250 and £300 based on condition (they haven't seen it yet). If you're interested, I'll post a thread with pics in the classifieds (no obligation, obviously)...
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Thanks but sorry, I hadn't realised they went for much!
 
I'm still getting to grips with the settings on mine. I seem to be getting a lot more 'soft' images with my 35mm. And figuring out how to get it to focus 'where I want' is a bit more of a challenge. I usually shoot in Aperture mode (and use my knowledge to work around problems), but might need to reassess this now.

The Warwickshire Golf & Country Club by SD, on Flickr

Owyn by SD, on Flickr
 
ERU said:
I'm still getting to grips with the settings on mine. I seem to be getting a lot more 'soft' images with my 35mm. And figuring out how to get it to focus 'where I want' is a bit more of a challenge. I usually shoot in Aperture mode (and use my knowledge to work around problems), but might need to reassess this now.

The Warwickshire Golf & Country Club by SD, on Flickr

Owyn by SD, on Flickr
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What focus mode and number of AF points are you using? With single focus point selected you should be able to move the point anyway within the frame to the point you want to focus on.
 
There is one more, that has a slight scratch on the front (doesn't state if this is on the lens, or the body) for £359 (with the 30% applied) on the Warehouse Deals if anyone else fancies taking a gamble - it's eligible for 30-day return if you're not satisfied.
 
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rob-nikon said:
What focus mode and number of AF points are you using? With single focus point selected you should be able to move the point anyway within the frame to the point you want to focus on.
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I'm not 100% sure how to change to 'single point' yet - I will look later.

Under the a: Autofocus menu I currently have:
a1: Focus
a2: Focus
a3: AF 3 normal
a4: on
a5: auto / on
a6: wrap on
a7: AF51
a8: off
 
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ERU said:
I'm not 100% sure how to change to 'single point' yet - I will look later.

Under the a: Autofocus menu I currently have:
a1: Focus
a2: Focus
a3: AF 3 normal
a4: on
a5: auto / on
a6: wrap on
a7: AF51
a8: off
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Have a read of p83 of the manual. The focus mode button is located on the front right (left side on looking through the viewfinder) under the lens mount. If you press the switch and turn the scroll dials it changes the focus mode and number of active points. I think the front dial changes the focus type (AF-S, AF-C or AF-A) and the rear dial changes the number of points (single point, 9, 21, 51).

Most of the time I use single point but move it around the frame to choose where I focus. Occasionally I use 9 and 51 point but it's very dependant on light type and subject movement.
 
ERU said:
Criicky! I've just figured it out - thanks. I didn't realise the Af/M switch also had a button on top of it. Happy times.
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There are a few hidden buttons. The good thing is nikon seem to be keeping the d7xxx,d6xx and d7xx ranges quite similar so it's easy to find your way around the different models.
 
It's arrived! What a beaut of lens - only taken a few snaps with it so far, but I'm very impressed with the sharpness of this lens - and considering I only paid £375, it's a bloomin' bargain!

20151219_151709 by Chuckoir, on Flickr

Weighs a ton 'n' all. :D
 
This is probably a daft question, but why does the shutter speed increase when switching to Liveview?

For example, in my poorly lit lounge right now, using the viewfinder the shutter speed is around 1/4th of a sec, yet when I switch to Liveview it goes up to 1/80th of a sec. I'm sure the answer is blindingly obvious but it's left me stumped.
 
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