Nikon D800......

RAM memories are cheap these days, why can't go with 16GB?
All my Mac computers i have [2 Mac Mini 2009 and 2012, and 2 Macbook Pro 2008 and 2009] are with maximum Memory it can take, and one PC laptop have also maximum RAM [16GB], only left are my 3 desktop PCs i built, 2 with 16GB and 1 the best have 32GB and i may upgrade to 64GB if that will do a lot for me in Photography and also video in the future.
 
I have 8GB RAM in my laptop. It helps that it's backed up by an i7 processor of course, But I find it copes more than respectably, I never experience any noticeable slowdown in LR5, or Cs6. I do plan to upgrade to 16 - but I don't feel it's a must. I just like to play games now and then on the laptop too.
 
cambsno said:
Quick question - while the more ram the better, is 8gb fine for D800 users?
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Pretty sure my laptop is 8GB. I shoot the D800 tethered into Lightroom on it all the time and it's fine. Occasionally I'll edit stuff on there too and don't remember any real problems.

Processor is fairly old too - the one before the i5/i7 version.
 
What make a really difference is my hard drive, because i replaced all the HDD in my all computers [Mac & PC] to SSDs, those drives are faster in read and right, so booting time is faster and processing time is also faster, and coupling this with higher RAM [8GB and above] will make your machine to fly or cream for DSLRs files, i work with my H4D-60 files with no problems.
 
Hi, My laptop only has 4gb of ram with an i5-450m processor. I process D800 Raw files with it with no problem.

I also use the same laptop from time to time with a D800 for shooting tethered with Lightroom 4.4.

Hope this helps.
 
I use a 4gb i7 laptop. I shoot full size raw and the initial import via Lightroom 5 can take a while but once they are in, the speed is what I would consider acceptable. Its not particularly slow but could be better. I've thought about sticking another 4gb memory in there to polish up the performance. I would certainly recommend 8gb but can get by with 4gb if you are able to compromise.
 
If you move your camera from the horizontal position to the vertical position can you hear something moving inside the camera????
I can
Dave
 
Thanks Pete, yes it does go away when the flash is lifted.
Cheers for your help
Dave
 
pmac said:
yeah i get this its the bar within the flash i think, goes away when you pop the flash up..try and see if yours does the same.
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yes, mine too. i noticed exactly this just 4 days ago when i was cleaning/charging my kit :geek:
 
macvisual said:
Ok I'm very new to Nikon, I've been shooting with Canon for a couple of years and hope to pick up a Nikon D800 within next few days etc...

Need advice as to any extension tubes that Nikon make please? When I shot using Canon I owned a Canon 12mm extension tube and had great results with it and it wasn't silly money to buy.

So any advice to see what Nikon do extension wise please..? Any advice most welcome.
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The Kenko tubes are as good as any.
got some for the Mrs via ebay easily enough (y)
 
macvisual said:
...So any advice to see what Nikon do extension wise please..? Any advice most welcome.
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It depends on which lenses you want to use them with.

Nikon do four tubes but you'd need a Nikon lens with an aperture ring. You can't use any of them with G-type lenses (which don't have an aperture ring) - see https://nikoneurope-en.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/18874.

Kenko make some Nikon fit tubes but you'd need to check which Nikon lenses they'll work with - http://www.wexphotographic.com/buy-...on-tubes-set-36mm-20mm-12mm-/p1007657#details.
 
The Kenko tubes i got for the Mrs autofocus with AFS & AF lenses as they have the electrical contacts AND the screw drive running through them along with the aperture control finger.
have a look on the pics on ebay, some of them show more detail than others (y)
 
you could go into shooting menu- set picture control-right paddle-then right paddle again on each of standard thru to landscape. that will get you sharpening contrast brightness-saturation and hue.
or
live view -white balance to K - keep finger on WB and turn front dial, then you can see the different colour settings

depends what you want but I just leave it in Auto

Or
take picture -press ok- into retouch menu- filter effects or colour balance
 
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Just got my D800e - took a quick jpeg - 1 actuaction... looking forward to playing with this now.... Just waiting for a CF card to arrive & play this weekend.
 
Measurably, yes.... visibly, not really unless you do really pedantic tests like shooting lens test charts etc. To be honest, the G is the better lens... AF is faster and quieter, and it's not as if it's expensive. Given a choice, I'd be wondering why anyone would opt for the D unless they're on a really tight budget... but you've just bought a £2000 camera... so I doubt that.
 
Well, they're both AF lenses, so MF is as terrible on both as it usually is on AF lenses. Why not buy a MF lens if that's how you roll? You can get a f1.8 AI-S for around £40 on Ebay.
 
The base of the D800 is ISO 100. Lo 1.0 slows it down by one stop to ISO 50. Lo 0.7 slows it down by a third of a stop and Lo 0.3 by two thirds.

The Hi settings do the opposite at the other end of the ISO range.
 
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PS. I can't remember, but it might be written as Lo 1 in the camera's displays (instead of Lo 1.0) but it still means a whole (i.e. 1.0) stop.
 
Lo1 (50 ISO) does not yield better quality than ISO100 BTW... just in case anyone thought that it did. 100 is the base ISO... Lo1 just attenuated the sensor output to facilitate longer exposures to aid with daylight slow speeds and flash syncing.

@macvisual These recent shots you are posting.. well.. the last 3 anyway... don't seem particularly sharp or detailed to me. I can get more detail from my D800... what lens are you using? Your EXIF seems corrupt... one says 5mm, and the rest say 0mm... so something's gone weird there.

Are they excessively JPEGed? You shooting RAW? How were these processed? Seems to be some fringing around the objects contrasting against the sky too... which is usually excessive radius and detail when sharpening.

Some test shots
Nikkor 24-70 f2.8 @ f11 (click for full res, then click again to zoom in (may not work on phones and some tablets)


Nikkor 50mm f1.8D @ f8 (click for full res, then click again to zoom in (may not work on phones and some tablets)


I suspect you're over JPEGing.
 
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