Some RAW processing software, particularly the camera manufacturers own software, apply the in camera (Picture Style. Picture Control etc) Jpeg settings to the RAW files by default, because some type of preset needs to be applied to the RAW file to display an image, and the software may be able to apply the same exact settings, and so side by side, they may look the exactly the same. Depending on the software, if it is 'guessing' at the Jpeg settings, the RAW and Jpeg file may not look the same. I think Adobe used to, or still do, create presets that try to replicate each camera's Jpeg profiles, so they have Adobe Standard. Portrait, Landscape etc, that can be applied. That, as well as the lens profiles, is why the Adobe Camera Raw updates are now so large.
If the image needs little to nothing changing, altering the Jpeg will probably be fine.
Though as BOX Brownie said above, information/data is 'lost' once the RAW file is saved as a Jpeg in camera, and so If big changes need to be made in editing, you may see limitations and artefacts start to appear with a Jpeg file, you may not. So better to edit with as much info.data as possible before the last step of saving in the lossy format.
I like to start with colour accurate images, as much as possible, before editing, and so use a ColorChecker Passport to create a profile for each camera, which is applied to RAW files on opening in Adobe Camera Raw. I'll be the one to alter colours, not a preset in a camera, I know what I was taking a picture of, how it looked, and how I may want it to look, if different.
This also has the benefit that RAW files from different cameras look very similar of the same subject, and generally similar overall. That may be very hard to do with Jpegs, firstly getting colour accuracy, and then matching images from different cameras (if needed) with each diferent camera applying a different Jpeg profile. And even cameras from the same manufacturer can look different to each other.
Another reason I use my own camera profiles is so that I can use a Flat Picture Control in my Nikon D500, so that I can try and get a more accurate Histogram. All Histograms, as far as know, create a Histogram using whatever internally set Jpeg profile applied. This may lead to uninspiring Jpegs that may be need to be changed to make them look good, but I don't record Jpegs, so don't see them.
Just a thought.
If I open a RAW file, and nothing needs to be changed, I just click Save As... and save it as a Jpeg. If I were to use Jpegs, and opened an image, and nothing needed to be done to it, I would just close it down again. For that possible extra step, I will put up with it to gain all the benefits. And not all RAW files will be turned into a Jpeg, just hopefully the good ones.
I understand that there are specific use cases, sport or journalism for example, where speed of image transfer is one of the most important steps in the endeavour, but for most other Photographers, they will edit an image in some way, so by doing that they have just negated that extra step of 'Save As...' the RAW 'shooter' has to do. And by shooting RAW you get a lot of benefits with more data enabling more editing possibilities. People have the choice to do whatever they want of course, and I just share what I do and why. Hopefully someone may find it useful.