NSFW (Apparently) What am i doing wrong?

MWHCVT said:
Right looking at the Exif is shows that you were shooting at a very wide aperture for light trails, and this has blown out that distant headlights, this coupled with the angle that the camera would have been to have it level based on looking at the bridge that you were on causes the blown area and the flare to line up, so think in conjunction with the wide aperture IMO is the cause of the flare :shrug: close the aperture up more and I think that you would have been just fine :thumbs:

Matt
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Okay, I'll certainly give it a try. I appreciate the help, I'll have to try it with my kit lens though, since the 50mm is in a bad way.
 
liam08 said:
Okay, I'll certainly give it a try. I appreciate the help, I'll have to try it with my kit lens though, since the 50mm is in a bad way.
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You'll likely get better results from the kit at 18mm anyway :thumbs: as in most situations 50mm is a bit long especially on a crop body for light trails

Just Dave said:
Thats why I PMd you to look :thumbs:
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It's appreciated :thumbs:

Matt
 
MWHCVT said:
You'll likely get better results from the kit at 18mm anyway :thumbs: as in most situations 50mm is a bit long especially on a crop body for light trails



It's appreciated :thumbs:

Matt
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Oh, I didn't realise that. Thanks you. :)
 
Liam,

The last image you posted clearly shows an inverted reflection of the main image. That rules out light leakage on that particular image. It is looking like it is reflected from somewhere in the light line.

You have said you had no filter of any kind fitted, not even a UV or a Protect filter but did you have a lens hood on with a shiny inner surface by any chance?

Mark
 
iPhoto said:
Liam,

The last image you posted clearly shows an inverted reflection of the main image. That rules out light leakage on that particular image. It is looking like it is reflected from somewhere in the light line.

You have said you had no filter of any kind fitted, not even a UV or a Protect filter but did you have a lens hood on with a shiny inner surface by any chance?

Mark
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I don't own a hood. It was just the Lens and Camera. I took the filter off last week, after being told they served very little use. I really hope I can sort this, it seems strange.
 
why not cover the viewfinder its what the camera makers expect you to do hence the built in ones?
 
liam08 said:
I took the filter off last week, after being told they served very little use.
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Hmmm, A top bit of advice that was :nono: Had you left it on you may not have knackered up your lens when if fell off your tripod :bang:

Mark
 
iPhoto said:
Hmmm, A top bit of advice that was :nono: Had you left it on you may not have knackered up your lens when if fell off your tripod :bang:

Mark
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Well, to be fair, the lens split in two and it's actually the inside of the lens that scratched. The glass closest to the shutter.
 
The 50mm's always fall apart but can be fixed, no filter would have saved that.

Just Dave said:
but if its leakage the live view would cut that out as the mirrors lifted :thinking:
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Yeah, just like in the photo Dave... I don't get what you mean?
 
whom said:
The 50mm's always fall apart but can be fixed, no filter would have saved that.
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My point exactly, but such as life. You live and learn, I'll make sure I'm less careless with it from now on.
 
SussexBlue said:
Sensor reflection
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^^^ Exactly this. Bright light bounced off the shiny surface of the sensor, and back again from a rear surface of one or more elements inside the lens as a ghost image. You can't see it through the viewfinder, but you can in live view. Quite common with night scenes where it shows up more readily against darker areas.

Filters make it much worse, and it's also more common at wider apertures as at higher f/numbers the partially closed diaphragm cuts off most of the return path back through the lens.
 
HoppyUK said:
^^^ Exactly this. Bright light bounced off the shiny surface of the sensor, and back again from a rear surface of one or more elements inside the lens as a ghost image. You can't see it through the viewfinder, but you can in live view. Quite common with night scenes where it shows up more readily against darker areas.

Filters make it much worse, and it's also more common at wider apertures as at higher f/numbers the partially closed diaphragm cuts off most of the return path back through the lens.
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So what would the answer be? Start at f/1.8 and work my way back?
 
liam08 said:
So what would the answer be? Start at f/1.8 and work my way back?
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First you have to be aware of when it's likely to happen. Situations like that, sunsets etc, particularly when the bright light is close to the centre.

Use live view and you'll see it. Often quite a small change in camera angle will swing the reflection off to one side so it bounces back harmlessly into the mirror box. And/or use a higher f/number so the diaphragm cuts off most of the return path.

It may also be that your lens (50 1.8?) is more prone to it, being basically a heritage lens originally designed for film that doesn't suffer from this particular form of 'flare' that is primarily caused by the shiny surface of the sensor. More recent lenses are more likely to be designed with an internal optical structure and specific coatings to reduce it.

In practise it's 90% a filter related problem though.
 
HoppyUK said:
First you have to be aware of when it's likely to happen. Situations like that, sunsets etc, particularly when the bright light is close to the centre.

Use live view and you'll see it. Often quite a small change in camera angle will swing the reflection off to one side so it bounces back harmlessly into the mirror box. And/or use a higher f/number so the diaphragm cuts off most of the return path.

It may also be that your lens (50 1.8?) is more prone to it, being basically a heritage lens originally designed for film that doesn't suffer from this particular form of 'flare' that is primarily caused by the shiny surface of the sensor. More recent lenses are more likely to be designed with an internal optical structure and specific coatings to reduce it.

In practise it's 90% a filter related problem though.
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I'll take that on board, the only thing I can't understand, is that I had the camera and lots of different positions and it was on every photo.
That said, I've been told to use my kit lens to do long exposures, so maybe I'll try that first. I'm really new to photography, everything is just me trying and failing and trying again.
 
Hi,

That looks like a reflection/refraction of light in the lens...

Bit weird, not idea why. Do you have other lenses you can try on the camera and see whether the effects happen (has to be along exposure with a light source)?

Sorry to hear your lens split, definitely time for a new one ! - insurance?

Nice long exposure from the bridge though!
 
ecniv said:
Hi,

That looks like a reflection/refraction of light in the lens...

Bit weird, not idea why. Do you have other lenses you can try on the camera and see whether the effects happen (has to be along exposure with a light source)?

Sorry to hear your lens split, definitely time for a new one ! - insurance?

Nice long exposure from the bridge though!
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I'm going to try my kit lens tonight, also, I'll try the 50mm and open it up to 1.8 instead of 22. Ha, novice mistake.
 
light leak around mirror usually causes a "glow" around the edge of the frame.
I once though I had that problem, tested it by putting lens cap on and shining small desk lamp into eyepice andtaking 10 or 20 min exposure. I didn't have any leak, it was the big stopper filter leaking.
 
admirable said:
Quick clone in PS
fixg.jpg
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samems said:
Cloning is not the answer though.
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Seems to work ;) :lol:
 
This is totally non-constructive post regarding your problem, but +1 for the speed-knob!
 
It's most certainly lens flare caused by light refraction within the lens, a common issue with kit lens at 18 mm. The brighter the original light source, the obvious the flare effect becomes (note how the blue spot "matches" the cluster of bright headlights in the distance).
I get those in some of my night time long exposure photos, a quick bit of clone sorts it out.
 
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