OFFICIAL I HAVE A NEW (FILM RELATED) TOY THREAD!!

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Pete
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After coming across a box of old photography equipment in the shed, I found these - a Zeiss Ikon Nettar 6x6cm and another 6x9cm. They appear to be in good condition, the shutter and aperture seem to work okay and I can't see any light leaks in the bellows.
I bought a couple of rolls of film yesterday and will report back when I've given them a try out.
Zeiss Ikon Nettar
by Peter Clegg, on Flickr
 
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Peter
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After coming across a box of old photography equipment in the shed, I found these - a Zeiss Ikon Nettar 6x6cm and another 6x9cm. They appear to be in good condition, the shutter and aperture seem to work okay and I can't see any light leaks in the bellows.
I bought a couple of rolls of film yesterday and will report back when I've given them a try out.
Zeiss Ikon Nettar
by Peter Clegg, on Flickr
They look to be in pretty good condition Peter, so quite a find! It's probably worthwhile running through all the shutter speeds a few times to exercise them before actually loading film.
 

ChrisR

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After coming across a box of old photography equipment in the shed, I found these - a Zeiss Ikon Nettar 6x6cm and another 6x9cm. They appear to be in good condition, the shutter and aperture seem to work okay and I can't see any light leaks in the bellows.
I bought a couple of rolls of film yesterday and will report back when I've given them a try out.
Zeiss Ikon Nettar
by Peter Clegg, on Flickr
Goodness me, that's a find! Do tell us more, is that something left by a previous occuant, or just so,ething you'd put aside some time ago and forgotten?

One tip for reading the numbers in the little red window at the back, you can get a little red LED torch, that can make them easier to see.
 
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Pete
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Goodness me, that's a find! Do tell us more, is that something left by a previous occuant, or just so,ething you'd put aside some time ago and forgotten?

One tip for reading the numbers in the little red window at the back, you can get a little red LED torch, that can make them easier to see.
I bought them over 20 years ago, I reckon and never put a film through either of them and then forgot I had them.
Thanks for the tip about the red LED torch.
 
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Picked up this Tamron SP 90mm f2.8 AF 72E from a Cash Converters in Blackpool today. It was £49.99 which I believe is a bargain for this lens. It's a Canon EOS mount but I didn't bring any Canon cameras with me to test it with and they only had bridge cameras and a T70 in the shop. The T70 is £14.99 if anyone is interested. IMG_20200106_171617.jpg
 
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Bought a Canon EOS 500 for £9.99 from a Cash Converters in Preston. I tested the Tamron SP 90 and it works perfectly. Also got a Minolta Program 3200i flash for £3 from the same shop.
I always check a Cash Converters when I pass one. I got a Canon EF 50 1.8 Mark III in mint condition for £40. I subsequently decided to concentrate on manual focus gear but sold the lens for a profit.
 
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Not from a Cash Converters this time but I picked this up today. It appears to be an early disposable camera. You send it back to Rank in the enclosed envelope, they process it and send another camera along with the prints. Not bad for £3.45. This must have been one of the replacement cameras because there's also a credit note for 10p in the box .
IMG_20200110_195521.jpg IMG_20200110_195605.jpg IMG_20200110_200048.jpg
 

Tori_T

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Just had a poke around.
16 shot 110 film, fixed focus 4ft to infinity f/11 lens 1/80th sec exposure. Museum examples dated from around 1973-6, so around 45 years old.
Made for Rank by Lure Camera Company in California.
Is it still unused?
 
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It was on 11 when I got it. I took two pictures to see if it was more than 12 exposures. I read that it was 16 exposures, the box has all of the info about the camera but not the film. It seems small for 110.
 
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Today's buys are a Minolta X-300, Minolta 50/1.7 and a Vivitar Series 1 70-210mm f3.5 (V2) all still boxed. The zoom has a Hoya Skylight filter with it, the 50mm had a B+W 49ES KR1.5 1.1x and a rubber lens hood. The camera has a body cap and viewfinder cover plus warranty and manual.

Everything is clean and working and cost a total of £32.50. £15.00 for the body, £7.50 for the 50mm and £10 for the zoom.
 
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eBay delivery today... I've had 2 hours unpacking and playing and not opened everything yet.
The Meopta enlargers are good. I used to churn out 30 or 40 10x8s in an evening when I used one and it gave me no trouble over several years.
 

RaglanSurf

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Today I picked up a Minolta 35-80mm zoom for £7, the one with the built in lens cap, a Canon Sureshot AF-7 for £2.99 and an Olympus AF100 for £2. The AF-7 is the version with the control dial on the front enabling the flash to be turned off.

I also saw a Polaroid Image 2 but I don't think you can get film for it now can you? I believe it takes 1200 film for a wide instant picture.
 
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The Meopta enlargers are good. I used to churn out 30 or 40 10x8s in an evening when I used one and it gave me no trouble over several years.
I used it last night and was impressed how well it works. The nearly full 100 box of 5x7 paper was used and is great too. Don't think I said previously but all the equipment in both photos plus a print dryer came to £57.50.
 
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Today I picked up another Balda, this time a Baldalux. I noticed in the shop that it had two windows on the back like my Baldessa, which is 6x9 but has a 6x6 mask. This is 6x9 but it has a 6x4.5 mask and, as you can see, has a roll of exposed Kodacolor II film. Once I check the bellows I'll shoot with this using an external rangefinder as the viewfinder is tiny and filthy. IMG_20200125_125015.jpg IMG_20200125_125027.jpg IMG_20200125_125049.jpg
 
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Today I picked up another Balda, this time a Baldalux. I noticed in the shop that it had two windows on the back like my Baldessa, which is 6x9 but has a 6x6 mask. This is 6x9 but it has a 6x4.5 mask and, as you can see, has a roll of exposed Kodacolor II film. Once I check the bellows I'll shoot with this using an external rangefinder as the viewfinder is tiny and filthy. View attachment 266822 View attachment 266823 View attachment 266824
And you actually have the mask! I have a number of dual format folders but only one complete with the masks.

Are you going to develop the film?
 
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I've never developed colour film before. I suppose I could cross process it. It was my first thought, that the mask wouldn't be there but it was. It fits more snugly than the Baldessa's, which is probably why.

I guess the 6x9 finder that goes on the front of the camera was optional as there wasn't one on either camera. The Baldessa does have a flip up sports finder with a 6x6 mask.
 

Asha

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Today I picked up another Balda, this time a Baldalux. I noticed in the shop that it had two windows on the back like my Baldessa, which is 6x9 but has a 6x6 mask. This is 6x9 but it has a 6x4.5 mask and, as you can see, has a roll of exposed Kodacolor II film. Once I check the bellows I'll shoot with this using an external rangefinder as the viewfinder is tiny and filthy. View attachment 266822 View attachment 266823 View attachment 266824
I had a Balda Baldix folding Rangefinder (6x6 iirc) that dated back to the fifties i think and had been owned by an ex RAF pilot whom I met when I purchased it.

The lens was a Schneider iirc and the glass rendered images incredibly sharp….On a par with my Sekor lenses that i had for my Mamiya RZ67.

The wind on and cocking of the shutter was quite an interesting proceedure and if done wrong, resulted in losing frames ….I lost plenty!

've never developed colour film before
Unless you really want the images ( if there are any) to be in colour, bearing in mind there will probably be severe colour shifts due to film age etc, I would cross process it in b&w chems and semi stand it for an hour in 1:100 solution of whatever film developer you have available.
 
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Thanks, I was looking at the 1:100 with Rodinal, that's the only one I have besides some CineStill monobath. A Baldix came up on eBay when I was looking up the Baldalux and I thought one of those might be nice too.
I would raise the temperature slightly as well. This will tend to protect the detail which is likely to be reduced on an old latent image.
 
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Thanks, I've just remembered my Bessa I has a 6x4 mask too. It just has worn bellows. I've seen replacement bellows on eBay but they're more than I paid for the camera. IMG_20200125_195227.jpg IMG_20200125_195056.jpg
 
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Picked this up today at a local charity shop. The lens still has the protective film on the front and rear elements. I'm fairly surprised because going by the label it's been there since the 10th.

I already have this in Canon mount, like this one and 35mm F2 variants in Canon and Nikon mounts. IMG_20200128_005628.jpg
 

excalibur2

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Picked this up today at a local charity shop. The lens still has the protective film on the front and rear elements. I'm fairly surprised because going by the label it's been there since the 10th.

I already have this in Canon mount, like this one and 35mm F2 variants in Canon and Nikon mounts. View attachment 267065
H'mm unless it has superior optics over a Canon 50mm or Minolta, Nikon etc I can't see any reason why anyone would want it or buy it....but of course if you got it for £2 it might be interesting to play with. ;)
 
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H'mm unless it has superior optics over a Canon 50mm or Minolta, Nikon etc I can't see any reason why anyone would want it or buy it....but of course if you got it for £2 it might be interesting to play with. ;)
There is an ad in the Wanted section for a 35mm Canon mount one.
 
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H'mm unless it has superior optics over a Canon 50mm or Minolta, Nikon etc I can't see any reason why anyone would want it or buy it....but of course if you got it for £2 it might be interesting to play with. ;)
The reason I bought my 35mm ones initially was the price. They cost me about £75 each at the time, a lot less than Nikon's FX 35mm AF or Canon's. There is a bit of a comparison here between the 50's: https://petapixel.com/2014/12/25/first-review-40-yongnuo-50mm-f1-8-nifty-fifty-clone/
 

excalibur2

My F4's Broken...
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The reason I bought my 35mm ones initially was the price. They cost me about £75 each at the time, a lot less than Nikon's FX 35mm AF or Canon's. There is a bit of a comparison here between the 50's: https://petapixel.com/2014/12/25/first-review-40-yongnuo-50mm-f1-8-nifty-fifty-clone/
Our local RSPCA has a nice collection of cameras and lenses going cheap, but buyer beware as the guy knows nothing about cameras and has a Minolta mount Tokina 24mm f2.8 for a fiver... on examination the iris lever doesn't return automatically and looking at my other lenses it would seem either a spring is broken or come off which I might be able to fix. If they can't sell something, they have a half price sale or whatever and bought a lovely as new warm winter coat for £3...anyway getting back to the lens I said to the guy if you can't sell it maybe you would have a sale for this lens...err well that's tight wad me as I don't think it's worth a fiver if I can't fix it although it probably could be used manually. i.e. stopping down and opening the iris manually :rolleyes:.
 
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Wooo, advertised as fully functioning, arrives with a dud light meter.
I can't speak for the FE, but the meter on the FE2 doesn't work until the frame counter reaches 1. It can be tested by switching to M250 or B, but I don't know if the FE has similar settings?
 
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Wooo, advertised as fully functioning, arrives with a dud light meter.
I can't speak for the FE, but the meter on the FE2 doesn't work until the frame counter reaches 1. It can be tested by switching to M250 or B, but I don't know if the FE has similar settings?
I think Peter is right. The exposures prior to frame 1 are shot at 1/250.

http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfeseries/fe/basic1.htm

The FE is one of my favourite ever SLRs.
 
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I can't speak for the FE, but the meter on the FE2 doesn't work until the frame counter reaches 1. It can be tested by switching to M250 or B, but I don't know if the FE has similar settings?
I have a film loaded; once I get to over f/8 the meter drops to bulb immediately. The aperture follower thingy is a bit sticky, so I guess it needs a CLA.
 
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