Official Talk Leica thread

Manual focus telephoto to capture instantaneous laughter that's gone a second later? :D

Whilst I don't want to hold the Leica SL to the same standard of the D750, the D750 never had such trouble..it's frustrating.

Well, I've used my longest manual lens, 135, for such. If you have the focus somewhere near and use peaking it's almost as quick as AF and possibly more accurate and reliable in low light. For a whole image anyway... pixel peeping at 100% may prove you've missed focus on your intended eyelash I suppose.

Give it a try. You can always come back and slag the kit off some more later.
 
Well, I've used my longest manual lens, 135, for such. If you have the focus somewhere near and use peaking it's almost as quick as AF and possibly more accurate and reliable in low light. For a whole image anyway... pixel peeping at 100% may prove you've missed focus on your intended eyelash I suppose.

Give it a try. You can always come back and slag the kit off some more later.

Does anyone simultaneously zoom and manual focus their 70-200 for event photography?

Sounds crazy..but you say it's not so I will try.
 
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Does anyone simultaneously zoom and manual focus their 70-200 for event photography?

Sounds crazy..but you say it's not so I will try.
I'm with you Dan, manually focussing with wide open tele lens trying to capture a fleeting moment ain't going to happen. Yes you could work around it by having a large DOF and/or prefocussing on someone hoping that they may do something you want to capture, but it ain't the same IMO.

It's times like this when photography is not just about the person behind the camera (without making compromises).
 
You using AFC or AFS as if you use AFC and tracking it has issues.. try AfS and tracking or be like me and only ever use AFS because you are too lazy to learn
How do you use tracking with AF-S :thinking:
 
You using AFC or AFS as if you use AFC and tracking it has issues.. try AfS and tracking or be like me and only ever use AFS because you are too lazy to learn

I'm using static af, continuous on mirrorless is asking for trouble.

d750 is better continuous af than this is static..
 
You using AFC or AFS as if you use AFC and tracking it has issues.. try AfS and tracking or be like me and only ever use AFS because you are too lazy to learn

I'm also trying single point af static on eye, eye brow, hairline anywhere with contrast and it takes five seconds until it decides if it finds focus or not.
 
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I'm using static af, continuous on mirrorless is asking for trouble.

d750 is better continuous af than this is static..
Apparently AF-C on the XT2 is as good as some top end DSLRs, although without trying it myself I'm still slightly skeptical, in terms of initial acquisition at least anyway ;)
 
Apparently AF-C on the XT2 is as good as some top end DSLRs, although without trying it myself I'm still slightly skeptical, in terms of initial acquisition at least anyway ;)

'some top end' it's either a D750 competitor or its not.

There is not that many top end..

So that sounds good then sound like it's the best camera in the world to be fair
 
The Leica SL in low light is a bloody nightmare.. using 90-280mm lens.

Field focus or spot focus - in ...out.....in....out....focus? if not try again.

I tried the 'zone' focus, put the majority of the nine focus squares on this subject, it chose the background time and time again...

View attachment 91507

This is ISO 5000, f2.8, 1/60th - so it wasn't even that bad..

I can get the shots I need with persistance, but this is beyond belief. I put the field/point over eye, eyebrow, hair line - trying to find contrast for the camera - still it messes it up time and time again.

There is an AF assist lamp, but I've never seen that as an option if you want to avoid annoying your subjects during a steathy candid shot..

Anything I can do? short of selling the SL and buying that damn fuji....lol
Not sure what the issue is here Dan, I think you've nailed the focus on the painting ;)

Fuji can do this too though, I've had my XT1 do this, once even in bright daylight :eek: Had the small AF square selected, placed over the eye (AF square was way smaller than the oerson's head) yet it focussed on an object behind them:confused:
 
Not sure what the issue is here Dan, I think you've nailed the focus on the painting ;)

Fuji can do this too though, I've had my XT1 do this, once even in bright daylight :eek: Had the small AF square selected, placed over the eye (AF square was way smaller than the oerson's head) yet it focussed on an object behind them:confused:

You should stop relying on af and use mf..
 
Apparently AF-C on the XT2 is as good as some top end DSLRs, although without trying it myself I'm still slightly skeptical, in terms of initial acquisition at least anyway ;)
Toebee it's not trust me. The D750 hands down is far better at auto focus. Now I dont have the grip but I really didn't have many issues with my Nikon. But I am beginning to like the Fooj, we the good photos ive taken. By good I mean by my standards
 
'some top end' it's either a D750 competitor or its not.

There is not that many top end..

So that sounds good then sound like it's the best camera in the world to be fair
I believe folk have said it's better than a D810, with it coming second only to the 1DX-II and D5. If true it sounds a very handy bit of kit. It's weird though as I still have my doubts yet I have no reason to disbelieve the folk who have said it :confused: It's probably because I have an extreme knack of finding flaws in things :LOL:
 
I believe folk have said it's better than a D810, with it coming second only to the 1DX-II and D5. If true it sounds a very handy bit of kit. It's weird though as I still have my doubts yet I have no reason to disbelieve the folk who have said it :confused: It's probably because I have an extreme knack of finding flaws in things [emoji38]
They are all tossers.
 
Toebee it's not trust me. The D750 hands down is far better at auto focus. Now I dont have the grip but I really didn't have many issues with my Nikon.
But you've never used Af-C ;)
But I am beginning to like the Fooj, we the good photos ive taken. By good I mean by my standards
:LOL:
 
I believe folk have said it's better than a D810, with it coming second only to the 1DX-II and D5. If true it sounds a very handy bit of kit. It's weird though as I still have my doubts yet I have no reason to disbelieve the folk who have said it :confused: It's probably because I have an extreme knack of finding flaws in things :LOL:

Only comes second to d5, so better than d750 wow.. stilling talking AFC mind you since AfS isn't usually an issue unless you are a leica sl indoors
 
You should stop relying on af and use mf..
Yeah, what was I thinking expecting a modern camera's AF system to be reliable in bright daylight ;)
 
Only comes second to d5, so better than d750 wow.. stilling talking AFC mind you since AfS isn't usually an issue unless you are a leica sl indoors
Disclaimer: I'm only quoting XT2 users on here that have or have had both ;)
 
It's over rated. Now let's keep this thread on track with these lovely expensive cameras and not my toy.
Yeah, back to talking about cameras neither of us will ever be able to afford ;)
 
Yeah, back to talking about cameras neither of us will ever be able to afford ;)

Yes so the issue is that I cannot capture the moment only the moment after.

Waiting for follow up reactions on the subject you now have in focus can yield good images, but that's not a great compromise.

I either find a solution, accept the frustration of get kit that works.

But first I'm going to video the issue so other can see what is the issue without putting their own spin on it of how they were able to get a shot in focus this one time in low light just fine..
 
Yes so the issue is that I cannot capture the moment only the moment after.

Waiting for follow up reactions on the subject you now have in focus can yield good images, but that's not a great compromise.

I either find a solution, accept the frustration of get kit that works.

But first I'm going to video the issue so other can see what is the issue without putting their own spin on it of how they were able to get a shot in focus this one time in low light just fine..
I think barring maybe one or two it is something you either have to accept with mirrorless or look elsewhere unfortunately. With these kind of light levels how fast/reliable is AF with a fast lens?
 
Yes so the issue is that I cannot capture the moment only the moment after.

Waiting for follow up reactions on the subject you now have in focus can yield good images, but that's not a great compromise.

I either find a solution, accept the frustration of get kit that works.

But first I'm going to video the issue so other can see what is the issue without putting their own spin on it of how they were able to get a shot in focus this one time in low light just fine..

Are you half pressing or full pressing the shutter button?
 
I think barring maybe one or two it is something you either have to accept with mirrorless or look elsewhere unfortunately. With these kind of light levels how fast/reliable is AF with a fast lens?

There are only two zooms for the sl a 50mm 1.4 is due later.
 
There are only two zooms for the sl a 50mm 1.4 is due later.
Ah, ok. Pretty limited at the mo. I'm guessing you've had no such issues with the Q though as you've not had any complaints with that I don't believe.
 
Ah, ok. Pretty limited at the mo. I'm guessing you've had no such issues with the Q though as you've not had any complaints with that I don't believe.

No complaints with Q. but it has an advantage of being 28mm... wide lenses don't tend to hunt like telephoto in my experience


Might be nonsense, but it seems possibly true :)
 
Welcome to mirrorless Dan. Whatever anyone says, they all still struggle to AF quickly when the light gets lower. Some body/lens may be faster than others but none are as fast as a DSLR yet. You're also trying to move a lot of elements in that long lens compared to the fixed 28 on the Q which is going to make a difference.
 
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Whilst I don't want to hold the Leica SL to the same standard of the D750, the D750 never had such trouble..it's frustrating.

Sorry to say this Dan but for the price you paid for it, the SL should be more than capable but unfortunately the technology isn't there, as with other systems. In good light the sensor/lens delivers great results as you've already shown but low light is always going to be a challenge for mirrorless. You're also shooting F4 at the long end so a faster lens would help too, once one is made.
 
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No complaints with Q. but it has an advantage of being 28mm... wide lenses don't tend to hunt like telephoto in my experience


Might be nonsense, but it seems possibly true :)
No you're right, teles tend to struggle more.
 
In an effort this morning to figure out the real limitations and a solution I found out the joystick button can be used to focus on the SL without triggering the metering. Which will be good for studio when the screen goes black with metering :)
 
In an effort this morning to figure out the real limitations and a solution I found out the joystick button can be used to focus on the SL without triggering the metering. Which will be good for studio when the screen goes black with metering :)
Well duh! We all knew that. Simple Google would have told you that one ;)
 
I assume you're referring to digital cameras here?

No, any camera that's wearing a mechanical lens, be that a film body, or a Leica M or a DSLR or mirrorless with a "legacy" lens via a mount adapter

If the aperture is not controlled electronically, then the camera cannot pick and chose when to implment the users aperture selection
 
it's just my technique though Neil...

I can overcome the AF system... the world will tell me how..

Just seen this and want to reassure you that it's probably not your technique. If you want fast low-light AF you realistically need a lens that's faster than F4 to get more light in to give the AF sensor a chance. You probably also need to shoot with a D750.
 
No, any camera that's wearing a mechanical lens, be that a film body, or a Leica M or a DSLR or mirrorless with a "legacy" lens via a mount adapter

If the aperture is not controlled electronically, then the camera cannot pick and chose when to implment the users aperture selection
Again it must be the adapter that's the key. The reason that I asked was that, as mentioned previously, my zuiko 50mm f1.8 on my OM1 only narrows the aperture when the shutter is pressed. As far as I'm aware there's no electronic communication between the camera and lens. The only 'electronics' on the camera is the light meter which is powered by a tiny watch battery, not enough to let the camera communicate with the lens I wouldn't have thought, although as always I'm happy to be proven wrong ;)
 
There's a physical linkage on the OM1 that pushes the stop down lever in the lens. That linkage is connected to the mirror/shutter in the camera body so the lens stays wide open until you take the shot. On a digital body, the adaptor has a small bar built in that permanently presses the stop down lever in the lens. As a result, as soon as you turn the aperture dial on the lens, the blades stop down.
 
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