Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 & Mark 2 Owners Thread

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Nice images! - On the banding, the only thing I can think of off hand is to try various shutter speed to counter, try different match ups of ISO/SS, trial and error. DO you have any images from the gig that didn't have banding? check the exif data from those, see what worked on that occasion
In my experience banding has been related mainly to shutter speed, and partly to the type of shutter used, it being more prevalent with the electronic shutter, and at higher shutter speeds.
Interesting.... yes not all had banding and I was using a higher shutter speed than I usually would. It did seem to be with certain lights. I swapped lenses and settings a bit but not a lot.... and there may have been alcohol involved which might have impaired the user's judgement....

Here's one where the banding is bad - SOOC just raw converted to jpeg. I was using silent shutter.

190427210146-P4270046.jpg
 
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Maarten
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Interesting.... yes not all had banding and I was using a higher shutter speed than I usually would. It did seem to be with certain lights. I swapped lenses and settings a bit but not a lot.... and there may have been alcohol involved which might have impaired the user's judgement....

Here's one where the banding is bad - SOOC just raw converted to jpeg. I was using silent shutter.

View attachment 244021
Sorry if this is a naive suggestion but why not use mechanical shutter in this scenario? My understanding is that this makes this type of banding far less likely? Alternatively, one of the articles below suggests a really slow shutter speed might get around the problem (1/15s), but this might obviously result in movement blur.

More info here:
https://www.lumixgexperience.panaso...onic-v-mechanical-shutter-modes/#.XMtYgWhKi70
https://enthusiastphotoblog.com/silent-shutter-banding/
 
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Typical stage lighting for music is a mishmash of lots of sorts of sources mixing all the time so it may be a few of the lights were really causing you problems but multi colour leds may make it very hard to work out which.

I had similar horrible banding in an art gallery last week - switching to mechanical shutter sorted it completely but there it was just flat flooded white light.
 
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Sorry if this is a naive suggestion but why not use mechanical shutter in this scenario? My understanding is that this makes this type of banding far less likely? Alternatively, one of the articles below suggests a really slow shutter speed might get around the problem (1/15s), but this might obviously result in movement blur.

More info here:
https://www.lumixgexperience.panaso...onic-v-mechanical-shutter-modes/#.XMtYgWhKi70
https://enthusiastphotoblog.com/silent-shutter-banding/
Not naive, I just didn't realise it would make any difference and I tend to leave it on silent shutter. Next time I will know better. I know I got caught out one time because the flash won't work in silent shutter. You live and learn!

Yes slow shutter speeds wouldn't work. I actually went higher than usual this time at 1/160 up to 1/250s Usually I go for slower but they are moving about on stage.

Thanks for the links, I will have a read.
 
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Typical stage lighting for music is a mishmash of lots of sorts of sources mixing all the time so it may be a few of the lights were really causing you problems but multi colour leds may make it very hard to work out which.

I had similar horrible banding in an art gallery last week - switching to mechanical shutter sorted it completely but there it was just flat flooded white light.
Yes I think it was just a few lights. I've noticed very slight banding in the past sometimes, but I've shot quite a few gigs and never seen it like this. Hmm although perhaps most have not been with mirrorless and maybe I've flukily been in mechanical shutter on my Olympus. Oh well, thanks to you all here, I know for next time!
 
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Sorry if this is a naive suggestion but why not use mechanical shutter in this scenario? My understanding is that this makes this type of banding far less likely? Alternatively, one of the articles below suggests a really slow shutter speed might get around the problem (1/15s), but this might obviously result in movement blur.

More info here:
https://www.lumixgexperience.panaso...onic-v-mechanical-shutter-modes/#.XMtYgWhKi70
https://enthusiastphotoblog.com/silent-shutter-banding/
Those links are great, thanks for sharing. I shall be going back to mechanical shutter!
 
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Keith
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Interesting.... yes not all had banding and I was using a higher shutter speed than I usually would. It did seem to be with certain lights. I swapped lenses and settings a bit but not a lot.... and there may have been alcohol involved which might have impaired the user's judgement....

Here's one where the banding is bad - SOOC just raw converted to jpeg. I was using silent shutter.

View attachment 244021
Yup, that is the source of your issue right there, the ES .. I only ever use this on the G80 outdoors in strong sunlight, couldn't trust it under artificial lighting
 

Skyline

Emmet Brickowski
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Olympus E-m10 Mark II

Went to take the card out last night and the battery cover just fell apart on the floor. I know the thing felt flimsy from new but I din't expect it just to fall apart like that.
I can not work out what goes where, so is it easier for me to buy a new battery cover and is it easy to remove the battery cover to fit a new one?

(I've had the camera over a year)




 
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Olympus E-m10 Mark II

Went to take the card out last night and the battery cover just fell apart on the floor. I know the thing felt flimsy from new but I din't expect it just to fall apart like that.
I can not work out what goes where, so is it easier for me to buy a new battery cover and is it easy to remove the battery cover to fit a new one?

(I've had the camera over a year)




I had a similar problem on a EM5.2 I bought used from Camera Jungle. On mine the little plastic catch snapped off first time I opened the door. Camera Jungle sent me a replacement door and I fitted it in around 2 mins. Although looking at your pics, the EM10 battery door is different.
 
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Olympus E-m10 Mark II

Went to take the card out last night and the battery cover just fell apart on the floor. I know the thing felt flimsy from new but I din't expect it just to fall apart like that.
I can not work out what goes where, so is it easier for me to buy a new battery cover and is it easy to remove the battery cover to fit a new one?

(I've had the camera over a year)




I would be inclined to just get a new one from Luton Cameras http://www.lutoncameras.co.uk/ fourth row down right hand column, £10.00 plus shipping.
 

Skyline

Emmet Brickowski
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I had a similar problem on a EM5.2 I bought used from Camera Jungle. On mine the little plastic catch snapped off first time I opened the door. Camera Jungle sent me a replacement door and I fitted it in around 2 mins. Although looking at your pics, the EM10 battery door is different.
I got mine new from Jessops, but it's over a year old now.


I would be inclined to just get a new one from Luton Cameras http://www.lutoncameras.co.uk/ fourth row down right hand column, £10.00 plus shipping.
I've got that tab already open from searching :)
Thought I would ask on here first if it's an easy fix. I've worked out where the parts go except for that little bronze pin.
 

Skyline

Emmet Brickowski
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I found another one of those bronze pins on the floor by my pc last night. As nothing is open until tomorrow I thought I would try and work out what went where. I only worked it out :) When done it I put 3 tiny dabs of super glue on the little holes and now it's more solid then when I bought the camera :D

If this ever happens to anyone else on their EM10 MK2 give me a shout and I'll walk you through it :)
 
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That little metal thing is what causes the 40 -150 hood to fall apart or rather, allegedly, the glue. I sent my hood away and it isn't back yet but bank holiday weekends slow everything down I guess.
 
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Love that @Phiggys

You must be getting better weather there than here.

One from the bank holiday. Was shooting with my D800 but I like having the E-M5ii aloing for the ride as it gives me something to play with while the big camera is sat on a tripod waiting for some light. The tilty screen and IBIS allows you to mess around with composition so easily.

St Mary's Island
by G.A.D, on Flickr
 
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Love that @Phiggys

You must be getting better weather there than here.

One from the bank holiday. Was shooting with my D800 but I like having the E-M5ii aloing for the ride as it gives me something to play with while the big camera is sat on a tripod waiting for some light. The tilty screen and IBIS allows you to mess around with composition so easily.

St Mary's Island
by G.A.D, on Flickr
I shoot like that with my E-M5ii on the tripod and shoot with the E-M1 handheld and I often prefer the handheld shots.
 
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Some great images there Snerkler - especially impressive are the ones at ISO6400 - look pretty good to me, and it seems the Panny lens is singing on your EM1 MK II
Thanks very much. Yes, the EM1-II is much better at higher ISO than people would have you believe.
 
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As promised here's a selection of photos that I took with the Olympus for Versus Arthritis at the London Marathon (more on flicker, although taken with the D850)

P4280691
by TDG-77, on Flickr
P4281040-2
by TDG-77, on Flickr
P4281095
by TDG-77, on Flickr
P4281283
by TDG-77, on Flickr
They are great Snerkler. Ian and I have noticed how rich the colours are when using the Olympus. The rugby photos are looking really good using it.
 
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They are great Snerkler. Ian and I have noticed how rich the colours are when using the Olympus. The rugby photos are looking really good using it.
Thanks :)
 
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Some for YWP yesterday. Light wasn't my friend though :(

1.
P5050001
by TDG-77, on Flickr

2.
P5050038
by TDG-77, on Flickr

3.
P5050053
by TDG-77, on Flickr

4.
P5050433
by TDG-77, on Flickr

5.
P5050439
by TDG-77, on Flickr

6.
P5050464
by TDG-77, on Flickr

7.
P5050529
by TDG-77, on Flickr
Another good set from the YWP. The warty pig at iso 6400 is very impressive, very clean and lots of detail. Whilst the Em1.2 high iso is pretty decent I fancy good metering and exposure was a factor in it being so clean.
 
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Another good set from the YWP. The warty pig at iso 6400 is very impressive, very clean and lots of detail. Whilst the Em1.2 high iso is pretty decent I fancy good metering and exposure was a factor in it being so clean.
Thanks. It is important you don’t have to raise exposure in post when using high ISO.
 

sirch

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I bought a Canon to Olympus lens adaptor a few months ago on a bit of a whim thinking I might use it for some moon photos and the like but since buying it we haven't really had a good moon on a clear night so it hasn't really had any use. Since I was going for a walk this afternoon I thought I'd take the EM5ii and the Canon EF 28-105 f4 just to see what it could do. I'm quite pleased with the result!

OrchidsAndCowslips
by Chris H, on Flickr
 
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I bought a Canon to Olympus lens adaptor a few months ago on a bit of a whim thinking I might use it for some moon photos and the like but since buying it we haven't really had a good moon on a clear night so it hasn't really had any use. Since I was going for a walk this afternoon I thought I'd take the EM5ii and the Canon EF 28-105 f4 just to see what it could do. I'm quite pleased with the result!

OrchidsAndCowslips
by Chris H, on Flickr
Which adapter? I use a Viltrox EF-M1 on the G80, also have a fringer EF to Fuji one for the XH1. I don't actually have any native lenses for either atm :D but I'm enjoying using cheap Canon lenses, they work pretty well. The fringer one is the better of the 2, but the Viltrox isn't bad for M43. Cost me only £80, the fringer is 3x that.
 

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Which adapter? I use a Viltrox EF-M1 on the G80, also have a fringer EF to Fuji one for the XH1. I don't actually have any native lenses for either atm :D but I'm enjoying using cheap Canon lenses, they work pretty well. The fringer one is the better of the 2, but the Viltrox isn't bad for M43. Cost me only £80, the fringer is 3x that.
It's a Commlite, I bought it second hand on here, it works OK with Canon lenses but I've got a Tamron that won't autofocus with it.
 
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It's a Commlite, I bought it second hand on here, it works OK with Canon lenses but I've got a Tamron that won't autofocus with it.
I haven't tried any third party lenses on the Viltrox, but what I have, the 50mm 1.8 and the 55-250 STM work pretty decent. They will hunt in less than ideal light, but in general using S-AF they work just fine for my needs. C-AF is not so good, unusable actually, but on the Fuji with the fringer pro C-AF works great, even in video it's very usable - obviously they're doing something a little extra with their adapter - pity they don't do one for M43. But .. they are also expensive, the adapter new costs more than both lenses I have! :D
 
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A couple from lunch. Further to another thread I might give focus bracketing a go at some point and see how that works.

OI000057
by alligator1975, on Flickr

OI000059
by alligator1975, on Flickr
Focus bracketing is almost impossible for images likes these, if the subject even moves a mm it can mess the whole thing up. It's hard even with static subjects out in the field as a slight breeze can throw it off too [say if you're trying to stack some flower or plant images] - never really got into it myself as I always feel stacked images are obviously so, and there's an unnatural feel about them. But they can be impressive nonetheless.
 
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Focus bracketing is almost impossible for images likes these, if the subject even moves a mm it can mess the whole thing up. It's hard even with static subjects out in the field as a slight breeze can throw it off too [say if you're trying to stack some flower or plant images] - never really got into it myself as I always feel stacked images are obviously so, and there's an unnatural feel about them. But they can be impressive nonetheless.
Thanks that makes sense. The bee would have been hard, but the frog possible as they literally freeze when you are near. Was a but windy today which made things difficult.
 
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