Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

my one worry when I changed systems to MFT was would it cope with the owls on the marsh in the winter . the place where they are is peculiar as your shooting brown birds against brown sea /marsh grasses and also 50% of the time your shooting directly into the sun . even with the best equipment your looking at a huge delete every shoot . .. my confidence in olympus MFT is growing with each outing ,yes I would love a 300mm f4 and t.c but its out of my pension price range for the time being . so I have to cope with the PL 100-400 f6.3 . .I also have a 50-200 f2.8-f4 four thirds zoom ..but you do need the reach with the owls .
plus I totally cocked up my settings the other day but as I keep saying its a learning curve I really should try using manual mode to get the best out of things but need to read up on it more
 
RedRobin said:
.... Nice one! Horses make me happy! The Oly 300mm F/4 Pro is one heck of a good lens and even with the TCs mounted.

As a rider and jumper in my youth I like to photograph Horses but not had the opportunity to do many since I moved from Canon to Olympus two months ago. But here is a composite of two images both shot on Olympus E-M1X + ED 40-150mm F/2.8 Pro. :

Blonde vs Blonde! Comtois Draught Horse 'Pierre' has some serious competition here from a visiting young horse lover. At Exeter Equine Fair in Dorset UK.

BLONDE vs BLONDE by Robin Procter, on Flickr
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@RedRobin I hope you didn't inform the young lady you thought she resembled the rear of a horse...hehehehe.
 
He was to busy hoping the hair would move out of the way of her bum :beer::beer:
 
the black fox said:
my one worry when I changed systems to MFT was would it cope with the owls on the marsh in the winter . the place where they are is peculiar as your shooting brown birds against brown sea /marsh grasses and also 50% of the time your shooting directly into the sun . even with the best equipment your looking at a huge delete every shoot . .. my confidence in olympus MFT is growing with each outing ,yes I would love a 300mm f4 and t.c but its out of my pension price range for the time being . so I have to cope with the PL 100-400 f6.3 . .I also have a 50-200 f2.8-f4 four thirds zoom ..but you do need the reach with the owls .
plus I totally cocked up my settings the other day but as I keep saying its a learning curve I really should try using manual mode to get the best out of things but need to read up on it more
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You know what they say practice, practice and practice. I noticed Bence mate users the pana quite often so it still must be a capable lens.
 
have been viewing a few tutorials tonight ,I usually shoot in a/v mode always have since my early days with canon .. but I have just input manual mode with auto iso set see how this works over the weekend .I know I can trust the camera up to 6400 iso so we will see . to many changes in light values this time of year to do manual iso adjustments
 
the black fox said:
plus I totally cocked up my settings the other day but as I keep saying its a learning curve I really should try using manual mode to get the best out of things but need to read up on it more
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.... You already understand the effects of which Aperture / Shutter Speed / ISO individually have on your final captured image and so all you are doing with Manual-mode is giving yourself more control rather than letting the camera decide any of those setting's values for you. The camera does a good job for you, but.

When you have Manual-mode selected you can decide on the fly without taking your eye out of the viewfinder and the big advantage of mirrorless is seeing the histogram and WYSIWYG.

Try setting ISO to Auto with a lower threshold of ISO 200 and upper one of say 1600? 2000? 2500? 3200? < you can override is easily on the fly. You'll have to experiment in the field to decide which ISO upper threshold suits the session best accoring to the light.
 
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Another example of how well the Olympus E-M1X Pro system can work in poor light. It was taken very late in the afternoon of a grey overcast day. The subject is grimy and was shot at ISO 2500 @12mm (24mm equivalent), F/2.8, 1/125s.

I think it fair to assume that the Olympus E-M1 mk2 will perform similarly as the differences are only a few features and an integrated battery grip carcass.

Best viewed on Flickr.

FIENDISHLY COMPLICATED BUT BEAUTIFULLY SIMPLE by Robin Procter, on Flickr
 
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A GREAT START TO 2020!

A grey overcast day wasn't going to stop me taking photographs! This image is shot in colour! A Blackbird In my wildlife garden in Dorset UK.

Photographed on Olympus E-M1X Pro system and best viewed on Flickr.

A NEW DAWN 2020 by Robin Procter, on Flickr
 
bloody fuming ,the rubber grip on my camera in front of the shutter is peeling away and appears stretched .. going to have to send it back to Portugal for repair grrrrrr 4 week turn around I believe
 
the black fox said:
bloody fuming ,the rubber grip on my camera in front of the shutter is peeling away and appears stretched .. going to have to send it back to Portugal for repair grrrrrr 4 week turn around I believe
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Shouldn't this be in the WAMT thread :)
Look on the bright side, it's going to rain for a few days/weeks so no need for a camera.
 
the black fox said:
bloody fuming ,the rubber grip on my camera in front of the shutter is peeling away and appears stretched .. going to have to send it back to Portugal for repair grrrrrr 4 week turn around I believe
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Hi Jeff it appears its quite a common problem from what my research has shown you would think with a camera that is peddled as a "pro" body by Olympus would at least be built to a better standard. Hope you get it sorted
 
the black fox said:
bloody fuming ,the rubber grip on my camera in front of the shutter is peeling away and appears stretched .. going to have to send it back to Portugal for repair grrrrrr 4 week turn around I believe
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.... E-M1 mk2? Still under warranty? Even if not under warranty, check out A.J.Johnstone (they are appointed repairers by all the major brands and also HDEW's first recommendation). You will have to pay them and then claim under warranty or insurance. I have used them when I accidentally dropped a Canon 7D-2 (Park Cameras where I bought it were useless dealing with it quickly).

A retailer will only send it to an appointed repairer anyway - Cut out the time-delaying middleman!

0141 221 2106

https://www.ajjohnstone.co.uk

Let us know how you get on.
 
MatBin said:
Look on the bright side, it's going to rain for a few days/weeks so no need for a camera.
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.... You've got to be joking Matt - Wildlife photographers aren't put off by a bit of rain or any other weather! :D
 
robin its 3 months old so gone back to olympus. and bought from LCE so u.k model. now sent off anyway
 
the black fox said:
robin its 3 months old so gone back to olympus. and bought from LCE so u.k model. now sent off anyway
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.... Have LCE told you how long it is expected to take to repair yet? Olympus might simply give you a new replacement body. If you kept a record of its serial number you'll be able to tell.
 
No robin wrong end of the stick again , it’s gone back to Olympus via there warranty service .. not much point in taking to LCE as there only The retailer . I kicked off on the phone to Olympus service about being left without a camera at a busy time but no joy from them . Got the wife’s Nikon D7000 but no decent lens for it basic 70-300 .
 
the black fox said:
No robin wrong end of the stick again , it’s gone back to Olympus via there warranty service .. not much point in taking to LCE as there only The retailer . I kicked off on the phone to Olympus service about being left without a camera at a busy time but no joy from them . Got the wife’s Nikon D7000 but no decent lens for it basic 70-300 .
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Might be a good time to pick up a second hand back up in case anything like this happens again.
Expect there are some well priced E-M5ii about since the Mk iii was launched.
Always handy to have a spare especially when travelling to places you may never visit again.

I leave a camera with lens attached, charged battery and memory card in the hotel.
Same goes with a spare charger, not so vital if the camera can charge via usb
 
cheers rich ,got the nikon D7000 for now .. was selling it but took it off sale for the moment . will make my mind up when I calm down . p***ed off is putting it mildly
 
the black fox said:
bloody fuming ,the rubber grip on my camera in front of the shutter is peeling away and appears stretched .. going to have to send it back to Portugal for repair grrrrrr 4 week turn around I believe
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That sucks :(
mazdaman said:
Hi Jeff it appears its quite a common problem from what my research has shown you would think with a camera that is peddled as a "pro" body by Olympus would at least be built to a better standard. Hope you get it sorted
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I must admit I’ve not heard of that, I’ve always found Olly bodies to be great.
 
snerkler said:
That sucks :(
I must admit I’ve not heard of that, I’ve always found Olly bodies to be great.
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I hope Olympus bodies are OK just ordered my M1 MK2 tonight (y)
 
mazdaman said:
I hope Olympus bodies are OK just ordered my M1 MK2 tonight (y)
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.... It can happen on any camera body - I had the same problem on a Canon 7D-2 a while back.

It would be reported all over the hyperinterwebbynet if it was a common Olympus problem and so I wouldn't worry. Besides, we don't know how roughly or not Jeff handles his cameras.
 
Ya cheeky old git , I treat it with more tenderness than i show the mrs.. needed sorting though as it takes away the waterproofing ,and according to the American site it is a common fault
 
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the black fox said:
Ya cheeky old git , I treat it with more tenderness than i show the mrs.. needed sorting though as it takes away the waterproofing ,and according to the American site it is a common fault
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.... I just Google'd the problem and most of the reports go back several years to 2017 and so I like to think that Olympus are aware and have done something about it. Certainly when close inspecting my M1X each rubber surface area is very flush with the magnesium carcass and consequently, in theory at least, it lessens the likelihood of a problem.
 
the black fox said:
Ya cheeky old git , I treat it with more tenderness than i show the mrs.. needed sorting though as it takes away the waterproofing ,and according to the American site it is a common fault
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Sorry to hear this but i think most of the problem is the need for Olympus to be able to remove it for repairs, lets be honest they could use a glue that would never lose its bond.
With a bit of luck the reair time quoted is a worse case scenario and you will get it back a lot quicker.

When i used m4/3 i did have a spare body but i dont now ime using Nikon Z, my longest lens is F mount so i could borrow a body from my LCS if needed.
 
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@blackfox I had to send my EM1ii back under warranty and I got it back quite quickly. I can’t quite remember now but it was definitely less than a week.

I had a problem with the card insertion that showed up within the last week of warranty. I was very impressed with the Olympus service.

Hope it gets sorted soon for you.
 
I remember I had a problem with my EM1 MK II about 6 months after getting it (early 2017) and it had to go back under warranty. Door to door the repair (faulty LCD) took 5 days.
 
RedRobin said:
.... It can happen on any camera body - I had the same problem on a Canon 7D-2 a while back.
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I know of someone who had the same rubber problem on a fairly new Panasonic G9
Another one that suffered badly from this problem was the Fuji X-T1, before that it was the Nikon D300

Pretty rubbish really for such costly items, is it the materials, lax manufacturing or poor quality control?
 
tijuana taxi said:
Might be a good time to pick up a second hand back up in case anything like this happens again.
Expect there are some well priced E-M5ii about since the Mk iii was launched.

Always handy to have a spare especially when travelling to places you may never visit again.

I leave a camera with lens attached, charged battery and memory card in the hotel.
Same goes with a spare charger, not so vital if the camera can charge via usb
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.... Hmm, if you are travelling to places you may never visit again then surely leaving your 'spare' camera back in your hotel in case your 'primary' camera fails can result in missed shots even if your hotel is within a short walk from where you are shooting.

Personally I advocate a 'spare' camera body which is exactly the same as your 'primary' and which even has your exactly matching customisations loaded (easily done via Olympus Workspace) - Muscle Memory should never be disregarded as unimportant in achieving your goals.

But in my case, I have two identical bodies with me when out shooting - They are both 'primary' although I am aware that if one fails out in the field then I still have the other I can shoot with. If you are wondering why I do this it's because I'm a poser and it looks cool :D it's because I view my lenses as 'primary' (not in the prime/zoom sense) and the bodies are just controller units - I don't lose time and miss wildlife shots while swopping between two lenses and there is less risk of internal ingress of debris/rain etc etc.

But of course it depends what kind of photography you do.
 
RedRobin said:
.... Hmm, if you are travelling to places you may never visit again then surely leaving your 'spare' camera back in your hotel in case your 'primary' camera fails can result in missed shots even if your hotel is within a short walk from where you are shooting.

Personally I advocate a 'spare' camera body which is exactly the same as your 'primary' and which even has your exactly matching customisations loaded (easily done via Olympus Workspace) - Muscle Memory should never be disregarded as unimportant in achieving your goals.

But in my case, I have two identical bodies with me when out shooting - They are both 'primary' although I am aware that if one fails out in the field then I still have the other I can shoot with. If you are wondering why I do this it's because I'm a poser and it looks cool:D it's because I view my lenses as 'primary' (not in the prime/zoom sense) and the bodies are just controller units - I don't lose time and miss wildlife shots while swopping between two lenses and there is less risk of internal ingress of debris/rain etc etc.

But of course it depends what kind of photography you do.
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Having two bodies is a luxury not a necessity for amateurs/enthusiasts imo, not everyone has endless money to spend on their hobbies (y)
 
tijuana taxi said:
I know of someone who had the same rubber problem on a fairly new Panasonic G9
Another one that suffered badly from this problem was the Fuji X-T1, before that it was the Nikon D300

Pretty rubbish really for such costly items, is it the materials, lax manufacturing or poor quality control?
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.... I suggest it is none of those reasons but down to the type of adhesive used to attach the rubber skin. As well as being an adhesive which is able to withstand extremes of heat and cold it has to allow the rubber skin panels to be removed for access when doing repairs. < EDIT : Ooops! I missed @mikew 's post #18,033 in which he said exactly the same about the need for removal access.

But the bottom line is that such problems are very easily repaired and that Olympus offer a very good aftersales customer service and there are officially appointed repairers such as A.J.Johnstone & Co who always aim for a fast turnaround.
 
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RedRobin said:
.... Hmm, if you are travelling to places you may never visit again then surely leaving your 'spare' camera back in your hotel in case your 'primary' camera fails can result in missed shots even if your hotel is within a short walk from where you are shooting.

Personally I advocate a 'spare' camera body which is exactly the same as your 'primary' and which even has your exactly matching customisations loaded (easily done via Olympus Workspace) - Muscle Memory should never be disregarded as unimportant in achieving your goals.

But in my case, I have two identical bodies with me when out shooting - They are both 'primary' although I am aware that if one fails out in the field then I still have the other I can shoot with. If you are wondering why I do this it's because I'm a poser and it looks cool:D it's because I view my lenses as 'primary' (not in the prime/zoom sense) and the bodies are just controller units - I don't lose time and miss wildlife shots while swopping between two lenses and there is less risk of internal ingress of debris/rain etc etc.

But of course it depends what kind of photography you do.
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I tend to have a base so might lose one days photos, but rest of the trip might be saved.
Can't cover every eventuality and just try to have a bit of back up, most places I visit have shops anyway

Don't subscribe to the muscle memory business, everyday we use many different gadgets and my ordinary memory copes with that ok.
Cost also plays a part, something many on here tend to forget and just assume everyone has loads of cash to chuck at gear.

After all its supposed to be enjoyable, lugging s***loads of gear around busy cities wouldn't be my idea of fun.
Quite the opposite of cool, more like looking a right prat with cameras hanging all over the show
Us older geezers will never be cool anyway, well must of us won't
 
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