Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

Fordsabroad said:
Can anyone recommend 3rd party batteries for the m1 markiii please?
[/QUOTEi was out today temps hovering around freezing took 834 shots with 62% battery life remaining .never used my spare to date
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Well the m1 mk iii and 12 - 100 has arrived and I am just playing with it. Goodness knows how Robin Wong gets sharp images at 15+ seconds. So far I am not managing anything beyond 2 seconds and even that is only occasionally.
 
Fordsabroad said:
Well the m1 mk iii and 12 - 100 has arrived and I am just playing with it. Goodness knows how Robin Wong gets sharp images at 15+ seconds. So far I am not managing anything beyond 2 seconds and even that is only occasionally.
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Never managed 2 seconds, one on a good day, but that is still pretty decent.
The 12-100 is a superb lens, so good right through its focal range
 
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Fordsabroad said:
Well the m1 mk iii and 12 - 100 has arrived and I am just playing with it. Goodness knows how Robin Wong gets sharp images at 15+ seconds. So far I am not managing anything beyond 2 seconds and even that is only occasionally.
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Quite a lot can be changed in the menu Gordon .took me a couple of months to gel with it . Give yourself time
 
Don153 said:
Too late for Fordsabroad, but I have been using these since the beginning of September:

They seem to last at least as long as the Olympus battery and they do show their status on the LCD exactly the same as the official battery. I have tried these batteries in the Olympus charger, and they charge just fine. I have also charged the Olympus battery in this charger - and that seems to work fine too.

[edit] I should add that I normally charge "in camera" after I upload my images to the pc vis the USB.
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Judging by the font these batteries look very like the "Enegon"s which I have. They last about 50% of the time of the official Olympus batts, so I wouldn't recommend them.
 
jerry12953 said:
Judging by the font these batteries look very like the "Enegon"s which I have. They last about 50% of the time of the official Olympus batts, so I wouldn't recommend them.
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These are lasting longer than the Olympus, so they are probably not the Enegons. Mind you, I have no idea how consistent the quality is with these "cheap" batteries - so anything is possible.
 
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A quick technique question for OM users if I may.
Last nights local news showed a street that has decorated lots of houses with lights for charity. It is not too far from where I will be this weekend so I may go and take some photographs. With the canon I would plan to take a couple of shots and exposure blend or possibly try HDR. With the EM1 Mk 3 will either live view or live composite make life easier? If there are lots of people there I may have to use ND filters to extend the exposure time and I am sure I have seen that you cant combine these with live view or composite but I have external filters.

How would you shoot this?
 
Don153 said:
These are lasting longer than the Olympus, so they are probably not the Enegons. Mind you, I have no idea how consistent the quality is with these "cheap" batteries - so anything is possible.
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See the similarity? But if you're getting better performance from something that costs about 20% of the genuine original, you're quids in. I wouldn't recommend Enegon's but they were about the same price as yours and came with a similar looking charger.





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Fordsabroad said:
A quick technique question for OM users if I may.
Last nights local news showed a street that has decorated lots of houses with lights for charity. It is not too far from where I will be this weekend so I may go and take some photographs. With the canon I would plan to take a couple of shots and exposure blend or possibly try HDR. With the EM1 Mk 3 will either live view or live composite make life easier? If there are lots of people there I may have to use ND filters to extend the exposure time and I am sure I have seen that you cant combine these with live view or composite but I have external filters.

How would you shoot this?
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have a play and see what works best ,you have several built in NDfilters to play with and also hand held high def ,you also have HDR . its not my forte so best advise would be suck it and see , dont delete anything at the scene though , these cameras are deceptive and till shots are uploaded you dont get that WOW factor
 
the black fox said:
just been playing in LR this one works for me .any thoughts
the hunter by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
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Doesn’t quite make it for me. The very fact that it’s a great backlit shot makes my eyes look towards the light source - but it‘s all black so my eyes don’t believe it. If that makes sense …
 
Fordsabroad said:
A quick technique question for OM users if I may.
Last nights local news showed a street that has decorated lots of houses with lights for charity. It is not too far from where I will be this weekend so I may go and take some photographs. With the canon I would plan to take a couple of shots and exposure blend or possibly try HDR. With the EM1 Mk 3 will either live view or live composite make life easier? If there are lots of people there I may have to use ND filters to extend the exposure time and I am sure I have seen that you cant combine these with live view or composite but I have external filters.

How would you shoot this?
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Hello, I recently attended a workshop in West Sussex on long exposures, and although it was daylight, I used ND filters (10 stop and 6 stop) with live view with no problem, not sure if this answers your question though, I have certainly used live view at night to do light trails etc, it is an absolutely brilliant feature on the Olympus cameras, I haven't yet tried a live composite Probably worth an experiment, I would be interested in the result!!
 
Fordsabroad said:
. With the canon I would plan to take a couple of shots and exposure blend or possibly try HDR. With the EM1 Mk 3 will either live view or live composite make life easier? If there are lots of people there I may have to use ND filters to extend the exposure time and I am sure I have seen that you cant combine these with live view or composite but I have external filters.
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I think you might mean live bulb, live time and/or live composite?

Olympus Modes Explained | Expert Hints & Tips | Clifton Cameras

Olympus Live Bulb, Live Time and Live Composite modes explained
www.cliftoncameras.co.uk www.cliftoncameras.co.uk

Which ever way I'd have a good read up and check some YouTube videos and a practice before you go to a busy, cold location as they're not super intuitive.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-8fm_3c5q0


I've assigned Bracket and HDR to Fn buttons so I can grab night shots easily.
If I remember then setting to Bracket and Sequential Low you can fire off a good set of bracketed exposures handheld that Lightroom will happily stick together as an HDR merge.

All that said I've often just opened up the lens and stood still for night shots, you can drag a lot back in Lightroom.

Eye eye by AMc UK, on Flickr
 
jerry12953 said:
See the similarity? But if you're getting better performance from something that costs about 20% of the genuine original, you're quids in. I wouldn't recommend Enegon's but they were about the same price as yours and came with a similar looking charger.





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They are different. The Enegon label is in a moulded recess. There is no recess on my batteries.

I also notice that all 4 connection points on mine are labelled, whereas the Enegon only has a plus and a minus. I wonder if this has anything to do with the battery status being displayed correctly. I have read several reports that these cheaper batteries do not show their charge state correctly.
 

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I bought one a while back and didn't put a lot of effort into mastering it. What I found was that if you are even very slightly off with the calibration then as you viewed the bird through the sight the camera was focussing on a different spot.
 
Fordsabroad said:
Is there a hot shoe adapter so that I can use my canon flash trigger on my OM1 mkiii ?
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Don’t think so , godox tend to make some flashes and triggers or if you can find the little flash that was supplied with a mark ii it might trigger a off camera flash
 
Fordsabroad said:
Is there a hot shoe adapter so that I can use my canon flash trigger on my OM1 mkiii ?
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I find my Godox trigger for Canon works on my EM1iii and the Canon remote for firing the shutter also works no problem. (I think this was off a Canon 550D years ago - so it isn't the more expensive one with more pins).
 
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another short eared owl shot from last week . the light on the day was terrible and most good shots entailed shooting into a late afternoon setting sun . so the latest changes to L/R where you can p/p the subject and background totally separately are a godsend ,last year I doubt I would have more than one or two worth posting this new LR is a total game changer .

learning the game by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
 
I’ve only used the new LR feature to select the sky, not the subject, but I agree - it’s invaluable.
 
mossquant said:
New member of TalkPhotography here. Joining here because all my good photos are taken with one of two Olympus TG-6 cameras. Specialty: Macro photography, specifically of mosses (Bryophyta). I have two because I have done some scientific videography of mosses and used two TG-6s on tripods focused upon the same subject.
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.... Welcome to the forum! I nearly always have an Olympus TG-6 in my pocket - Very good quality and only let down by not having a viewfinder to look through.
 
I wonder if anyone can help?
I have the strangest problem with my E1M mark 3. Sometimes, usually on a dull day, I simply cannot get a sharp image. I'm fairly new to photography (as opposed to taking holiday snaps), so perhaps there is a simple explanation for what is happening.
The image below is a crop, without resizing. The image was taken through a 100-400 F5-6.3, at F6.3, ISO 1250, 1/250s.RabbitExamplePC057386.jpg

I took a whole bunch of images, and they all look similar. I tried some with small single point autofocus, and others using manual focus.
When, I tried manual focus, I could never get a sharp image in the viewfinder. I also tried all combinations of IS (Lens and IBIS).
It was as if the sensor was vibrating at very high speed( I tried a few shots at shutter speeds up to 1/800, ISO6400.

When I got home, I set up the camera indoors, and adjusted the lighting to give settings, and the images are tack sharp. As an experiment, I went down to 1/25s hand held, at 400mm, and things are just perfect.

This has happened several times, and it usually only happens on a dull day. However, I can get fantastic results indoors with almost no light.

Does anyone have any ideas?
TIA.
One other thing is that affected images do not have an obvious region of where the focus should be. They are a bit more blurry both before and after the focus point, but you have to look hard to see it.
 
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Personally I would say that you have something set very badly in your menu system . First things to check though is the lens settings have you got I.s engaged,is your range setting set correctly for general work the middle switch should be set …
Next the camera in your cog menu the setting should be .. lens i.s priority.. that’s the main one but there could be several others conflicting it . .
The shutter speed on your shot does look a tad suspect though . .

Let’s assume that in general you have the menu set o.k . And your not trying some technique off of u.tube that doesn’t work . Set the camera to A/v mode , lens at f6.3 , auto I.s.o in cog menu set a minimum shutter speed of 1/800th sec ,if you can’t find that use shutter priority mode and dial in 1/800th .
Use c.a.f on its own and start with smallest single point . . Then try that out .

The only other suggestion at this point is that you post a photo of your SCP as that may show a obvious error
 
Don153 said:
The image was taken through a 100-400 F5-6.3, at F6.3, ISO 1250, 1/250s.
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If it was shot at the 400mm end then the shutter speed is probably too low, the general rule is to keep the shutter speed above the focal length of the lens, so 1/400S or more for a 400mm lens.
 
sirch said:
If it was shot at the 400mm end then the shutter speed is probably too low, the general rule is to keep the shutter speed above the focal length of the lens, so 1/400S or more for a 400mm lens.
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2X crop factor Chris so I suggested 1/800th
 
sirch said:
If it was shot at the 400mm end then the shutter speed is probably too low, the general rule is to keep the shutter speed above the focal length of the lens, so 1/400S or more for a 400mm lens.
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.... That general rule is certainly one to bear in mind sometimes but nowadays camera system technology has blown that apart due to very sophisticated image stabilisation in both lenses and camera bodies.

Olympus are currently a world leader in this respect. I can get sharp images handheld at 1/160s at 2000mm (M1X + 150-400mm TC + MC-20).

But I agree that shutter speed may well be a factor in Donal's focus issue and it's always a better practice not to push the limits unless circumstances oblige you to.
 
Combination of shutter speed and poor handholding technique leading to camera shake I suspect
Doesn't take hardly any movement at 400mm to dramatically affect the outcome.

Much easier to do well under controlled conditions than out on uneven ground with other weather factors.
Up the shutter speed and practice getting a steady stance, maybe try kneeling to provide a better base.

Also remember critters like bunnies are very rarely still, always slightly moving which doesn't help.
 
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Without seeing the SCP it’s hard to diagnose but if indoor shots are o.k you can eliminate camera/ lens problems . So it’s either technique/ menu/ user error
 
Have you ruled out a problem with the lens? I sometimes get poor results with my Leica/Pana 100- 400 zoom which I haven't been able to explain, but I do get great results with it in good, contrasty light and if I get everything else right!

That rabbit picture is awful, I agree. it can't be a focus problem as it is mushy all over. Suggests camera shake?

Are you using a tripod with IS switched on? I sometimes forget to switch it off and get some mushy results, even with a shorter lens (12 -100 f4 zoom)
 
Would be good to see the whole image. There isn't a band of the image in more focus, which I'd expect with a long telephoto shot.

Also, what saving settings do you have - is the image from an ORF, or jpg, and what image size are you saving? If not ORF Large, then you'll be losing detail. It looks more likely to be saved as jpg and not at full resolution.
 
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