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Pity the fool who gets the camera with no door at all
I will be putting these settings in later .worth a try anywayHopefully tomorrow after work, the light will hold, set up the C1 slot for birds in flight settings, and heading down the local park to catch some ducks.
Was watchingView: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0hBOO3udIA
and realised that I'm attempting it slightly wrong.
Note, those settings don't apply to insects in flight
I think for flying birds I need a wide angle viewfinder with a target marker in the center, showing me where the zoom is pointed.
[edit] Hot News:
And, I just scored a vintage one, with parallax adjustment off the bay for a tenner.
Some tweaks are, turn off image review in your viewfinder and use the electronic shutter.I will be putting these settings in later .worth a try anyway
put them in now ,have to wait till the weekend for a proper test .. it certainly makes canikons menus look easy peasy though.Some tweaks are, turn off image review in your viewfinder and use the electronic shutter.
I know when I initially switched , my thoughts were what have I done ,but it gradually falls into place and you realise how complex these babies really areA new twist or perhaps shock would be a better term to use under the circumstances to my new EM1 and 12-40 purchase
Once I regained some enthusiasm and knowing I have 35 days to return for a full refund I undertook further extensive tests.
Thanks to @AMcUK for suggesting a website that gave suggested settings to use, read through and something called "anti shock" caught my attention.
By this time I had tested the 12-40 on my Panasonic GX80 and found it as expected to be flawless, so it was back to the body as the culprit...……………..
TBC, its breakfast time and will update this gripping (or not) saga shortly
Shutter shock, the bane of M4/3 for some reason. I had it really bad on an EM5-II, sent it back for a replacement and the second one was fine. However, I just use antishock mode now as a matter of course, I can't see any downsides to using it so why run the riskA new twist or perhaps shock would be a better term to use under the circumstances to my new EM1 and 12-40 purchase
Once I regained some enthusiasm and knowing I have 35 days to return for a full refund I undertook further extensive tests.
Thanks to @AMcUK for suggesting a website that gave suggested settings to use, read through and something called "anti shock" caught my attention.
By this time I had tested the 12-40 on my Panasonic GX80 and found it as expected to be flawless, so it was back to the body as the culprit...……………..
TBC, its breakfast time and will update this gripping (or not) saga shortly
I'm on the edge of my seatAfter a very boring breakfast, pot of tea and porridge its back to the saga
Further investigations told of shutter shock, something I was unfamiliar with despite using APS-C mirrorless for roughly four years.
My readings told of firmware updates and settings needing to be changed, got even more confusing when what seemed like a deck of cards became involved (diamonds, hearts, what is that all about?)
Anyway as the candle burnt down it became clear that I had probably stumbled across the cause of my initial disappointment, but was this really the answer?
Final part of the trilogy coming soon, need to nip up the shops for a few bits.
Shutter shock, the bane of M4/3 for some reason. I had it really bad on an EM5-II, sent it back for a replacement and the second one was fine. However, I just use antishock mode now as a matter of course, I can't see any downsides to using it so why run the risk
I'm on the edge of my seat
Final part of the trilogy coming soon, need to nip up the shops for a few bits.
as some may know I have recently started playing with manual focus lenses and getting quite a collection now plus adaptors ,heres the first test shot from a nikon nikkor 50mm f1.4 lens ,very pleased with this think its a keeper camera om10-mkii
pen pot by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
Yes, antishock is the drive mode with the little diamond, you can set it for single shot or continuous (although not sure you can set it to continuous high from memory). There's also the drive modes with the heart shapes which are full electronic so will also be antishock. However, as it's full electronic curtains you have the issue of the jello effect with moving subjects/if you pan.What are your settings for antishock mode. I'm assuming you have to choose the drive mode which has the little diamond shape next to it?
I'd say be careful you don't fall off, but you'll be fine, you've got IBIS
Yes, antishock is the drive mode with the little diamond, you can set it for single shot or continuous (although not sure you can set it to continuous high from memory). There's also the drive modes with the heart shapes which are full electronic so will also be antishock. However, as it's full electronic curtains you have the issue of the jello effect with moving subjects/if you pan.
Do you leave the time for anti-shock at 0?Yes, antishock is the drive mode with the little diamond, you can set it for single shot or continuous (although not sure you can set it to continuous high from memory). There's also the drive modes with the heart shapes which are full electronic so will also be antishock. However, as it's full electronic curtains you have the issue of the jello effect with moving subjects/if you pan.
I do yes, I want the camera to respond instantly to my inputDo you leave the time for anti-shock at 0?
I get the x2 to 100mm bit but I I don’t understand where your then doubling up the aperture to f2.8 as far as I’m aware that stays static at f1.4 . To apply a doubling up of apertures would turn m4/3 zoom lenses of f5.6 into f11 and that simply doesn’t happenOf all the focal lengths to adapt, I always think 50mm makes more sense than most. You end up with something akin to a 100mm f/2.8 FF equivalent in terms of results which is quite a desirable length and still quite fast. Adapting things like 28mm 2.8's etc never had the same appeal.
I get the x2 to 100mm bit but I I don’t understand where your then doubling up the aperture to f2.8 as far as I’m aware that stays static at f1.4 . To apply a doubling up of apertures would turn m4/3 zoom lenses of f5.6 into f11 and that simply doesn’t happen
Never seen this problem before, certainly not on my Pen-f or a mates EMD1 Mk IIRefund obtained, the new settings certainly had a positive effect, can imagine how bad it was before the problem was known about.
Did think about keeping it, but know I would always be checking to make sure the shock effect wasn't affecting the photos.
Are later models similarly affected and in need of the anti shock prevention settings?
Shutter shock can plague all cameras that use mechanical shutters, some more than others. From reading around m4/3 does seem to be more prone to it than DSLR's and other mirrorless on the whole, although there are certain models of DSLR for example that are also known to be very prone to shutter shock. As for the exact reasons that this might be I'm not sure. With DSLR you also get the added problem of mirror slap which can give a similar result. For the most part it's unnoticeable, but there is a reason why landscape togs for example like to us mirror up mode and/or electronic first curtain.Refund obtained, the new settings certainly had a positive effect, can imagine how bad it was before the problem was known about.
Did think about keeping it, but know I would always be checking to make sure the shock effect wasn't affecting the photos.
Are later models similarly affected and in need of the anti shock prevention settings?
Refund obtained, the new settings certainly had a positive effect, can imagine how bad it was before the problem was known about.
Did think about keeping it, but know I would always be checking to make sure the shock effect wasn't affecting the photos.
Are later models similarly affected and in need of the anti shock prevention settings?
Shutter shock can plague all cameras that use mechanical shutters, some more than others. From reading around m4/3 does seem to be more prone to it than DSLR's and other mirrorless on the whole, although there are certain models of DSLR for example that are also known to be very prone to shutter shock. As for the exact reasons that this might be I'm not sure. With DSLR you also get the added problem of mirror slap which can give a similar result. For the most part it's unnoticeable, but there is a reason why landscape togs for example like to us mirror up mode and/or electronic first curtain.
I don't believe the EM1 is anymore prone to shutter shock than any other M4/3 camera tbh, I've certainly not noticed it with mine. I did have an EM5-II with very noticeably shutter shock (which is a later model than the EM1) which went back and the next one was fine. However, as I've also mentioned earlier after an initial hesitation (was convinced there'd be some negative with using anti shock) I finally decided to use anti-shock all the time, 'just in case'
Unfortunately there's the odd duff example of any model, and it just seems like you had a rare duff EM1 I'm cursed with cameras, I've had a duff Sony A77, Duff EM5-II, Duff Nikon D750 (after Nikon got their hands on it), and Duff Nikon D850I always used mirror lock up when taking landscapes with my 5D MkII mounted on a tripod using a remote shutter release.
Never noticed this problem with any of my Fuji's and doesn't seem to show up in my daughters EM5 ii
Seems very strange why it should be worse in different examples of the same model.
Definitely noticeable in the EM1 I have just returned, glad for you it appears ok in your camera.
Panasonic seem to have found a cure and been reading that Olympus have mounted the sensor on some form of shock absorbers in the EM1 ii
Thanks for everyone here for bearing with me and offering up assistance, at least it wasn't a costly mistake apart from some time and a gallon of petrol
Unfortunately there's the odd duff example of any model, and it just seems like you had a rare duff EM1 I'm cursed with cameras, I've had a duff Sony A77, Duff EM5-II, Duff Nikon D750 (after Nikon got their hands on it), and Duff Nikon D850
Got that marked off on watchI just found you can get these dot sights with hotshoe mounts on a slow boat from the bay. Big saving over the official Olympus ones.
If you guys want to try one.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Reflex-Red-Green-Dot-Sight-4-Patterned-Reticle-for-Camera-Shooting-Hot-ES/302809474059?_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIM.MBE&ao=2&asc=52543&meid=8b440c9cb59b4e9ab7b7fc68de4037c3&pid=100005&rk=4&rkt=12&sd=322453751862&itm=302809474059&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
Been there done that a few times . This is a handy investment for the tripod accessibility https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Arca-Swi...872682?hash=item3d52c8702a:g:VMAAAOSwhDBZ5x1hI tried the Pen F with the flash at a party this week and couldn't get it to fire... it took me a long time at home to work it out - the flash won't fire when it is in silent mode. :banghead: