Yes these are with the f/2.8 version. It's lovely and sharp and light. It works really well with the extender, but then you have f/4.nice couple of shots especially with that messy background , I'm presuming this is the 40-150 2.8 pro lens , been hovering on buying one all week but don't know if there's enough range for what I do really .. these are swaying me though
Nice shots! I like that idea with butterflies - I must try it.If you use it on a butterfly and press as they leave the flower they often fly backwards, it then looks like you caught them landing...
Yes these are with the f/2.8 version. It's lovely and sharp and light. It works really well with the extender, but then you have f/4.
Nice shots! I like that idea with butterflies - I must try it.
I tried pro capture again with football yesterday. It does help get better shots if you're timing's not quite on the money, but I came home with 1400 shots instead of around 400-500 - far too many. I think I'll stick to using it with nature photographs. It might be more suited to not using back button focusing as I do too.
I think I read somewhere that in high pro capture it uses one shot whereas with lo it uses C-Af.
I only tried the pro-capture high and that always changed it from CAF to SAF, didn't try the Pro-capture low as at that point (and still now) I don't know the difference.
Cheers Keith ,I think your right .. the 45mm f1.8 arrived this morning as new condition plus Olympus lens hood toYou're flying with the em1mkII Jeff, it seems to have re-sparked your enthusiasm, great to see
Another from Sunday morning at Steetley Pier, this time around 20 minutes before the sun rose.
Steetley Pier by Simon Harrison, on Flickr
EM1 mk II + Panny 8-18mm + Haida 0.9 SE ND Grad filter.
Cheers,
Simon.
Very interesting mike thanks for posting .. worth keeping on the back burner for future use . Does this work with RAW files to
why have you sold it mikeAs well as i can remember yes, i only used low when i had my 40-150 2.8
why have you sold it mike
I haven’t got a clue what your on about can you expand on itAny reasons not to adjust the highlights to -7 ?
Any reasons not to adjust the highlights to -7 ?
I haven’t got a clue what your on about can you expand on it
and what is that supposed to do ... your shooting so you say with a lens a PL100-400 that needs a lot of light as it starts at f6.3 the only things you need to worry about in reality is shutter speed and iso levels ..Highlight & Shadows adjustment Page 66
Ignore other settings on SCP.
View attachment 254978
Plus I find moving the power switch to the FN lever very convenient.
I haven’t got a clue what your on about can you expand on it
Im thinking that by setting the highlights to -7 it reduces highlight loss in the image, thats why I'm asking if anyone thinks its a bad idea and why?and what is that supposed to do ... your shooting so you say with a lens a PL100-400 that needs a lot of light as it starts at f6.3 the only things you need to worry about in reality is shutter speed and iso levels ..
but if you can explain any advantage in setting highlights to -7 it might help
I also note you say ignore other settings but this is NOT the set up for a 100-400 lens is it
Im thinking that by setting the highlights to -7 it reduces highlight loss in the image, thats why I'm asking if anyone thinks its a bad idea and why?
I said to ignore the settings on the SCP image because it is off the internet. I only used it to illustrate the area I was talking about.
That said Im not using the cameras IS system at present
Are you shooting raw or jpeg? I think (although don't quote me on this) that settings like this only affect jpeg.Im thinking that by setting the highlights to -7 it reduces highlight loss in the image, thats why I'm asking if anyone thinks its a bad idea and why?
I said to ignore the settings on the SCP image because it is off the internet. I only used it to illustrate the area I was talking about.
That said Im not using the cameras IS system at present
I haven’t got a clue what your on about can you expand on it
Are you shooting raw or jpeg? I think (although don't quote me on this) that settings like this only affect jpeg.
Are you shooting raw or jpeg? I think (although don't quote me on this) that settings like this only affect jpeg.
Had a quick look at the book and wonder if it's only for in-camera PP
This is the case on any camera afaik. It also affects video
Robin Wong covers this in his latest video around maximising dynamic range from OMD cameras. Changing the shadow / highlight curve is one of the tips he gives that will only benefit JPEG shooters.
Skip to around 9 minutes in.
View: https://youtu.be/PIUeUOIBM10
Cheers,
Simon.
Yeah haven't looked into the flatness, as I'm just play around with the settings. However on a basic flower image it does retain more details. I looked at the warnings setting previously with the EM5mk2 and hated it. Maybe its time I spent a little time revisiting it?If you're shooting JPEG, then this can help preserve your highlights but you will run the risk of producing flat looking image.
Make sure you've enabled the highlight and shadow warnings for your EVF. This will show clipped highlights in red and shadows in blue. You can also adjust the RGB values that these appear at to give more latitude. I find this extremely useful.
Hope this helps.
Simon.
Robin Wong covers this in his latest video around maximising dynamic range from OMD cameras. Changing the shadow / highlight curve is one of the tips he gives that will only benefit JPEG shooters.
Skip to around 9 minutes in.
View: https://youtu.be/PIUeUOIBM10
Cheers,
Simon.