"Panasonic G series" Owners Thread

Keith... it was the Oly 30mm f3.5. It is insanely sharp and can focus as close as 9cm.

Jeff.... Once i’ve set it up how I like it and had a little play, I will do the said comparisons.

Battery on Charge...
 
Gandalf said:
Took my Gx80 and pany 45mm Macro Back today as they were just not working out hated the small viewfinder and didn’t like the size of camera, just too small. The macro lens rattled so much I thought it had been dropped. WEX accepted returns no problem.....

I can hear you all asking yourself the same question “He didn’t just turn around and leave”.... did he!!!

The answer of course.... a resounding no.. I had a play with a some Sony Cameras, then a Canon and finally a play with the EM-1 MkII. Lovely camera.... Long Story Short, came away with the MkII. So now I can do a side by side comparison with my G9. Oh and picked up a nice Oly Macro too .....
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I did the exact opposite yesterday and bought a GX9, viewfinder isn't the best, but find it adequate
From my very limited test photos its a winner and just the job for what I want it

My daughter recently bought the 60mm macro and it is a very nice lens, shame the recent cashback has ended now, think it was a 65 quid refund
 
The GX80/GX9 EVF is relatively poor by todays standards and if I look at it and think about it I think it's a real disappointment that Panasonic have fitted this to what could be great cameras and in doing so has made them rather mediocre to poor to use but when I'm out and about and not just concentrating on how relatively poor the EVF is I don't notice it so much and I actually enjoy using the cameras. Yes, the EVF is also a bit small but as I wear glasses my eye is pulled back a bit and the EVF therefore isn't so small.

I do wish they'd fit a top end EVF to a small form RF style camera though as I much prefer these over the just about as big as an APS-C SLR style cameras.

Lenses shouldn't rattle though unless it's a case of "They all do that guv" because of the IS or a floating element or summot.
 
couple of mine from yesterday ,focus is o.k (but not perfect ) but noise in the raw file was quite bad for a sunny day . two out of four consecutive shots . or should I be happy with what I'm getting ?.
lift off by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
up and away by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
 
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I can't say that I've noticed any significant differences in raw noise between whole and partial stops, or whatever they are :D but as I also have a Sony A7 I do notice that my MFT cameras have more noise but I think it's worth stepping back from looking very closely a bit and instead trying to evaluate the final picture and when doing that I'm usually happy even when taking pictures at the highest ISO's. I think I posted a picture of a squirrel at something like ISO 16,000 a while ago and I'll use the maximum 25,600 if I need it :D

Other than when looking very closely or cropping heavily the one situation in which I find that noise can be more of an issue is under some artificial lighting. I wonder if there are some natural lighting conditions which could also appear worse for noise? Maybe there aren't but I'm just wondering... and certainly there'll be some natural light compositions which show more noise in the shadows than others if the light or lack of and subject are particularly unfriendly.
 
woof woof said:
I can't say that I've noticed any significant differences in raw noise between whole and partial stops, or whatever they are :D but as I also have a Sony A7 I do notice that my MFT cameras have more noise but I think it's worth stepping back from looking very closely a bit and instead trying to evaluate the final picture and when doing that I'm usually happy even when taking pictures at the highest ISO's. I think I posted a picture of a squirrel at something like ISO 16,000 a while ago and I'll use the maximum 25,600 if I need it :D

Other than when looking very closely or cropping heavily the one situation in which I find that noise can be more of an issue is under some artificial lighting. I wonder if there are some natural lighting conditions which could also appear worse for noise? Maybe there aren't but I'm just wondering... and certainly there'll be some natural light compositions which show more noise in the shadows than others if the light or lack of and subject are particularly unfriendly.
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In post I always check images at 100%, I don't go ridiculous like 400% as I've seen some do, but I like to check critical focus and that is when i notice the noise. It's odd, I tend to skip 400 because some of the noisiest images I've shot in the past while were at 400, where other images at 650 or 1000 were cleaner or at least easier to clean up. I'm not aggressive with NR either, rarely go above 20NR, I find masking sharpness does as good a job.
 
pics to follow later but a brief resume first , today the weather was total shiite overcast grey ,so after changing a few settings last time in frustration I went back down to the estuary this morning for high tide again, the two main changes I have made are shooting in shutter priority (also tried manual mode for aperture changes ) and re-set the i.s.o to auto again . for whatever reason it seems that with these cameras you simply cannot treat them as you would a DSLR ,I have always used a/v mode but that has now gone out the window . the big lens needs a high shutter speed for moving targets I,e above 1/1600th sec luckily its still pin sharp wide open so no great loss and the camera is choosing lower i.s.o values than I would set manually , so I guess its just let it do its own thing and be happy is the rule of the day.

Sundays pics
bathtime by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr

dipping and diving by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
the poseur by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
 
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woof woof said:
The GX80/GX9 EVF is relatively poor by todays standards and if I look at it and think about it I think it's a real disappointment that Panasonic have fitted this to what could be great cameras and in doing so has made them rather mediocre to poor to use but when I'm out and about and not just concentrating on how relatively poor the EVF is I don't notice it so much and I actually enjoy using the cameras. Yes, the EVF is also a bit small but as I wear glasses my eye is pulled back a bit and the EVF therefore isn't so small.

I do wish they'd fit a top end EVF to a small form RF style camera though as I much prefer these over the just about as big as an APS-C SLR style cameras
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Think I will get one of the deeper eyecups they make for the GX9, might stop the sun getting in the sides a bit.
Had a Fuji X-E2 for a few years so used to the glare effect, the GX9 evf size and shape is very similar

Been having another mess with it today, evf could be better, but its really ok for framing purposes and I knew all about it already owning a GX80
Impressed overall with the camera, photo quality is excellent and that's the main thing
 
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As I've said many times, I think the GX80 is good value considering the quality it gives. I honestly can't see any difference between the GX80 and GX9 picture quality. I do wish it had exposure compensation in manual mode though as it's such a useful feature.
 
Guys
I'm thinking of buying a GX80 with the 12-32 lens as a walkabout camera. The main considerations are: lightweight, portability and good IQ/ colours. I currently use Fuji and am used to the lovely colours so I am somewhat concerned that the GX80 might not impress. Also the 16 MP sensor isn't that much of a step up from my aging 12 MP Fuji X30. BTW, I only shoot JPEGs
Please could you tell me honestly how the GX80 stacks up
 
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Rosedalelad said:
Guys
I'm thinking of buying a GX80 with the 12-32 lens as a walkabout camera. The main considerations are: lightweight, portability and good IQ/ colours. I currently use Fuji and am used to the lovely colours so I am somewhat concerned that the GX80 might not impress. Also the 16 MP sensor isn't that much of a step up from my aging 12 MP Fuji X30. BTW, I only shoot JPEGs
Please could you tell me honestly how the GX80 stacks up
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Having had quite a few Fuji cameras and a GX80 I think you will find the colours less vibrant, possibly on the dull side albeit more lifelike
Fuji are renowned for their Jpegs and they do look good, but I have never been convinced how accurate they are.
No problems with IQ, excellent little lens and surprised me with its quality, ibis works well too

I have just bought a GX9 and from my very limited time using it I think the colours are stronger than the GX80, but still more realistic than Fuji
Can't really go wrong with the GX80 combo at current prices and has replaced my X-E2 and XC16-50 to carry around all the time
 
Be aware though that that lens doesn't have a focus ring so in situations in which af would struggle (through glass, foliage, busy scenes etc) switching to mf is a not as easy as with a more conventional lens. Personally for a small zoom I have the more conventional 14-42mm mega ios which is still small for a zoom.
 
Rosedalelad said:
Guys
I'm thinking of buying a GX80 with the 12-32 lens as a walkabout camera. The main considerations are: lightweight, portability and good IQ/ colours. I currently use Fuji and am used to the lovely colours so I am somewhat concerned that the GX80 might not impress. Also the 16 MP sensor isn't that much of a step up from my aging 12 MP Fuji X30. BTW, I only shoot JPEGs
Please could you tell me honestly how the GX80 stacks up
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If you only shoot Jpeg then the 'Vivid' profile on Panasonic cameras provides nice punchy colours. I've had a bunch of Fuji cameras [X10, X100s, X-T1, Xpro1] , and yes they do produce nice Jpeg files, but I think many over exaggerate about this whole 'colour science' thing. I found Fuji cameras over saturated reds, I often had to tame them in post, they would sometimes look like reds were 'bleeding' into other colours, like a dodgy print. I don't get anything like this with the G80 [same sensor as the Gx80 afaik] The 12-32 is highly rated for a kit lens, possibly one of the sharpest kit options for M43, but as woof states, no manual focus ring - if that matters? 16mp is more than enough for general use, and for moderate sized printing too. Bags of detail in the images, I have found M43 lenses to be sharper then Fujis like for like
 
More from the Leyburn (North Yorkshire) 40's weekend.

I have tried to present them with a 'look' sympathetic to the era, but I may be way out.

All taken with a gx8 and either the Lumix 12-35 f2.8 or Lumix 35-100 f2.8.


i-tXGwc3D-X2.jpg




i-DfM9Lx3-XL.jpg




i-XmZddKR-XL.jpg




i-vDCZxJf-XL.jpg




i-45g56gw-XL.jpg
 
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they may have suited b/w colour wasn't really around them days ,if your processing in photoshop cc they do have lots of new presets that may work better btw ,its the four little square boxes at the top right of the Lightroom page ,just keep scrolling through till one looks right
 
The vignette is way too heavy for me, I don't think old-feel really requires it. My dad has photos of family going back 100 years, and there's no vignette in any of the pictures. I would pull that right back, and just go for more muted tonnes, B&W or even sepia - like it or not, images from that era were most likely to be in a sepia tone. As black fox says, LR and PS have some pretty decent presets now for an aged photo look.
 
so I'm back for the foreseeable future! Returned the Leica as it didn't jump out at me; So ended up with a G80, 12-60 and the 100-300 which seems very good so far! This is all going to be used against my M50; time shall tell! These shall be my main ones now, look forward to adding some pictures here!
 
welcome back to m4/3 ,I rather fancy one of the 100-300 for the wife to use on the olympus or a oly 75-300 all I need now is some money :LOL::LOL::LOL:
 
Cagey75 said:
16mp is more than enough for general use, and for moderate sized printing too.
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I'm curious about what you consider "moderate sized".

My first digital camera was a 6mp Canon 10D - I regularly printed to A3+ off that and an normal viewing distances is was absolutely fine. Admittedly, any serious cropping could be an issue, but a "full-sized" file printed was fine.
 
BT Bob said:
I'm curious about what you consider "moderate sized".

My first digital camera was a 6mp Canon 10D - I regularly printed to A3+ off that and an normal viewing distances is was absolutely fine. Admittedly, any serious cropping could be an issue, but a "full-sized" file printed was fine.
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Large wall print or whatever. Yes, I know you can get nice prints from any camera that will look alright from various distances, I'm talking a good size wall print for a living room that will look great viewed up close also. I'm defending the lower mp count here btw
 
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Few from this afternoon with the G80 and 100-300. Very pleased! Processes in camera using the raw converter and wified across to my iPhone! Round about 1000 ISO

IMG_0272.JPGIMG_0273.JPG
IMG_0274.JPGIMG_0275.JPG
 
Rosedalelad said:
Guys
I'm thinking of buying a GX80 with the 12-32 lens as a walkabout camera. The main considerations are: lightweight, portability and good IQ/ colours. I currently use Fuji and am used to the lovely colours so I am somewhat concerned that the GX80 might not impress. Also the 16 MP sensor isn't that much of a step up from my aging 12 MP Fuji X30. BTW, I only shoot JPEGs
Please could you tell me honestly how the GX80 stacks up
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If you really want to shoot just jpg then I'd probably look at Olympus (second hand e-m1/5/10s are reasonably cheap) or Fuji again.
Otherwise learn to edit RAW, it opens up so many possibilities for your images
 
Hi Guys,

As posted above, I am a novice using Lightroom and PS, any good tutorials, books etc to get me started.

I’ve been happy with my own photo’s but now feel I need a little further help.

Cheers
 
Ste_S said:
If you really want to shoot just jpg then I'd probably look at Olympus (second hand e-m1/5/10s are reasonably cheap) or Fuji again.
Otherwise learn to edit RAW, it opens up so many possibilities for your images
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Thanks for your advice but I've used RAW before and TBH I can't be bothered with it - I now shoot JPEG only because I prefer it as I don't want to be sitting in front of a computer for hours. Fuji JPEGs are good and I'm looking for that in a smaller lighter format
 
Rosedalelad said:
Thanks for your advice but I've used RAW before and TBH I can't be bothered with it - I now shoot JPEG only because I prefer it as I don't want to be sitting in front of a computer for hours. Fuji JPEGs are good and I'm looking for that in a smaller lighter format
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I spend about 5mins per photo - and that's for the ones that I'm sharing, otherwise I don't bother.
I'll spend longer though if I'm printing.

If you're stuck on jpg only you're probably better off sticking with Fuji if you like their jpg output already ? The X-E1/2/3 and X-T10/20/30 are all reasonably small and not that much bigger than the Panny GX80
 
Ste_S said:
I spend about 5mins per photo - and that's for the ones that I'm sharing, otherwise I don't bother.
I'll spend longer though if I'm printing.

If you're stuck on jpg only you're probably better off sticking with Fuji if you like their jpg output already ? The X-E1/2/3 and X-T10/20/30 are all reasonably small and not that much bigger than the Panny GX80
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Thanks, I think I have probably come to the same conclusion - but I needed to get user views as I have no experience with M43
 
Rosedalelad said:
Thanks for your advice but I've used RAW before and TBH I can't be bothered with it - I now shoot JPEG only because I prefer it as I don't want to be sitting in front of a computer for hours. Fuji JPEGs are good and I'm looking for that in a smaller lighter format
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I use a panasonic G80 and shoot jpeg only.
There's plenty of settings in camera to get the look that you're after.
 
Enjoying my newly acquired GX9, still getting used to the menus and bought one of the expanded manual type books in eBook form from Amazon.
Jpegs are excellent, RAW's haves plenty of leeway to play with, shame they don't work directly with my standalone LR6, always the DNG converter though

If anyone wants to try this system out I have my GX80 for sale in the classifieds, shame for it to gather dust now I have this new camera.
 
I have a GX9 but I can't bring myself to sell my GX80 as its such a good camera for very reasonable price. GLWTS though :D

On raws and spending hours in front of the pc. That really isn't my experience, I apply a preset to my raws and then check the WB and any exposure issues or shadow recovery and very often that's all the picture needs. Thinking about the time it takes, I think easily less than a minute per picture but I do accept that if you shoot a lot of pictures the time in front of the pc can increase :D

I use raws for the extra flexibility when needed and also for a bit of futureproofing as when I went from using Rawshooter Essentials to CS I saw a real improvement in shadow recovery and overall image quality and I actually went back and reprocessed a lot of raws with the new software and it's always in the back of my mind that in 5 or 10 years time I might be using some future processing software which will give another real improvement :D
 
ian-83 said:
I am bored of waiting for my G80 to return from its repair.
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Buy my GX80 from the classifieds then, could probably get it to you for Monday or Tuesday at the latest if it was sorted in the next half hour or so
 
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I do find that I’m spending more time on the computer these days ,buts that’s simply down to choosing which pics to process out of the good ones , both my g80 and oly m10 have a good burst rate and the keeper levels are right up there with my previous canon 1D3 and 1D4 bodies in actual fact probably a bit higher these days .

The main difference is you really have to learn these cameras and think about every situation as there’s no one size fits all
 
tijuana taxi said:
Buy my GX80 from the classifieds then, could probably get it to you for Monday or Tuesday at the latest if it was sorted in the next half hour or so
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I have been tempted to get a range finder style body the Pen-F really appeals to me and a handful of nice primes to go with it.
 
GX80 - Every time I look through the EVF, my finger or nose touches the lcd screen and messes with the focus point. Is there any way to lock this so that it doesn't happen?

Been using it to shoot footy and it's really annoying now :mad:
 
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