"I was struggling to keep shutter speed fast enough to avoid shake"
Did you actually see signs of shake, or just working by "old theory" ?
Reason I ask is that the stabilisation should give useful advantage. I find I can use 1/15 without too much trouble on the 12-32.
Another possible option is the 12-60 Power OIS, then you can use dual stabilisation, which makes things quite a bit better.
If you are using JPEG, you can set the sharpening and noise reduction as low as it will go, and then you can use one stop faster ISO, and denoise and sharpen with software later, (and always sharpen last of all, watching carefully for any halo or artefacts)
If you are using RAW, you will have that advantage already.
The 20mm 1.7 has quite a few things going for it, and it is the only prime I have kept. (No, not true, I also have kept the 9mm "lens cap", which give surprisingly good results when the distortion is corrected, and is also very small)