Pedal Power Thread

you say you had the cassette off... do the individual sprockets separate? (i'm not well up on 10s campag... I sort of went from 7 speed Super Record BITD to 11speed chorus a few years ago... (I still miss that bike, but it went to a good home when I moved back from Milan)

I'd just wonder if there hadn't been some tiny speck of grit/muck/even grease that had ever-so-ever-so slightly munged the inter-sprocket spacings...

EDIT: had a quick shuftie at the campag website, and it seems some of the casettes have different thickness spacers...

www.campagnolo.com/repository/documenti/en/10s_Sprockets.pdf

get them in the wrong order, and the inter-sprocket distance (and hence the indexing) will be all over the shop...
 
you say you had the cassette off... do the individual sprockets separate? (i'm not well up on 10s campag... I sort of went from 7 speed Super Record BITD to 11speed chorus a few years ago... (I still miss that bike, but it went to a good home when I moved back from Milan)

I'd just wonder if there hadn't been some tiny speck of grit/muck/even grease that had ever-so-ever-so slightly munged the inter-sprocket spacings...

EDIT: had a quick shuftie at the campag website, and it seems some of the casettes have different thickness spacers...

www.campagnolo.com/repository/documenti/en/10s_Sprockets.pdf

get them in the wrong order, and the inter-sprocket distance (and hence the indexing) will be all over the shop...

Great thought, yes each cog does come apart but I was meticulous in the order I kept them. I had a dirty stack and a clean stack and took a dirty cog individually, cleaned it, then added it to the clean stack in what I felt was perfect reverse order. Now you have me doubting whether I was as meticulous as I felt I was being at the time. It would certainly explain why the indexing is only off in the centre of the cassette, whilst the outer limits are perfectly set. I'm not sure if I cocked up something simple or I'm just unnecessarily doubting my common sense :LOL: :bang:

Edit: to make things slightly more complicated it's actually a Campagnolo-compatible Miche cassette my bike came with...I'm going to look at their technical support documents hoping to find a similar diagram. Thanks for your reply!

Edit 2: By the looks of their tech spec. (mine is the CA 12-25) it appears they have a standard spacer width between each cog (they were certainly all blue when I took it apart), so I think we can rule that idea out. In true GAS style this is pushing me towards buying a proper Campy cassette, which has been on my mind for a little while :LOL:
 
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Thats some great advise....i've now dropped around 6kg (16.10 stone to 15.5 ish) since i started last May...the majority has been in the last few months...its made a huge difference to my riding. i'm now 98kg and people on club ride have said how much my hills have improved...a new bike and increased fitness has helped but ultimately i'm putting it down to weight loss.

Its a club ride...1st big one of the year.

I'm on a bit of a reduced calorie diet anyway to loose some weight but............

As its my 1st big one i can only go off what i know my body responds to so:

Friday (tonight)...Pasta time plenty of it....i know it takes a day or 2 for it to start realising energy, hopefully in time for the 1st bit of the race...

Saturday...normal eating...something carb related on sat night...some crumpets and honey or soreen for supper

Sunday (ride morning)...up early...beetroot shot...bowl of porridge, honey, dried fruit...bit of soreen.

During ride (this is the bit i'm going into blind)...soreen with jam in pocket...Homemade banana/ fruit cake or Nutrigrain bars....Zipfit energy chews and carb drink (with extra satchets)....maybe some jelly babies.....I dont like cycling energy bars, they dont agree with me

There'll be a cafe stop too....my aim isnt to go the quickest but just to do the miles (i'm hoping to do 100).

Any tips greatly apprectiated...i'll be hydrating loads before and obviously during.

For anyone looking to loose weight my big tip is cut out bread!!!

Thanks for that Dan. Obviously need to work out what good for me and try out a few combinations.
 
Quick question of you don't mind. I'm looking at getting a pair of clipless pedals and shoes (for the first time). Just for normal everyday use and we are doing a long bike ride in July - coast to coast.

I seem to be getting conflicting information re you should go for road pedals and others say MTB pedals - (they are going on a road bike) - as they are easier to walk about with and for general use would be the better option ? So getting very confused. Don't have a lot of money to put into these...

Also do they really make a difference over pedals and toe clips / straps ???

Thanks

Andy
 
Quick question of you don't mind. I'm looking at getting a pair of clipless pedals and shoes (for the first time). Just for normal everyday use and we are doing a long bike ride in July - coast to coast.

I seem to be getting conflicting information re you should go for road pedals and others say MTB pedals - (they are going on a road bike) - as they are easier to walk about with and for general use would be the better option ? So getting very confused. Don't have a lot of money to put into these...

Also do they really make a difference over pedals and toe clips / straps ???

Thanks

Andy

I've never used toe clips or straps so I'll have to leave that for someone else.

Putting aside the usual road vs MTB rivalry and bias, clipless pedals essentially function in the same way. Road pedals tend to focus on providing a broad surface area for the contact point, which is said to improve power transfer, but certainly improves comfort by distributing the pressure over a wider area. That's not to say that MTB pedals will be uncomfortable, just that road pedals tend to be nicer if you're going to spend a day in the saddle (the stiffness of the soles on your shoe also have a major part to play in this). On the other side of the debate, road pedals usually have stiffer clipping in and out because it's needed less frequently than when you're tearing over rough ground on a MTB. This is less forgiving to beginners but is quickly got used to. Also, as you say the cleats (the bits on the sole of the shoe) are usually bigger and more obtrusive for road pedals, which will mean walking anymore than a few meters is awkward but still doable.

For someone new to clipless and on a budget I'd probably advise either the Crank Brothers Eggbeaters or one of entry-level Shimano pedals like the MD-540, which are both MTB pedals. That said, I'd never ridden anything but flats before I bought my Speedplay Zero pedals; they're probably more than you're looking to spend but it shows that you can dive right in to a proper road cleat with stiff entry and exit and not have any problems... apart from a couple of flops on my drive because I'm an idiot :D

Feel free to ask more if I've missed anything!
 
pretty much covered it - basically road pedals/shoes are not designed for walking in any further than from your door to the kerbside and back, or a quick slither across the floor of the cafe. Intending to do any more than that, I'd recommend MTB oriented pedals/shoe combos, as at least they have some form of tread on the sole.
 
Argh the more I fiddle with this the further out it gets now. I need to come back to it when I'm less frustrated and more patient! I really don't want to have to admit defeat and take it in to the LBS :bonk:
 
I've never used toe clips or straps so I'll have to leave that for someone else.

Putting aside the usual road vs MTB rivalry and bias, clipless pedals essentially function in the same way. Road pedals tend to focus on providing a broad surface area for the contact point, which is said to improve power transfer, but certainly improves comfort by distributing the pressure over a wider area. That's not to say that MTB pedals will be uncomfortable, just that road pedals tend to be nicer if you're going to spend a day in the saddle (the stiffness of the soles on your shoe also have a major part to play in this). On the other side of the debate, road pedals usually have stiffer clipping in and out because it's needed less frequently than when you're tearing over rough ground on a MTB. This is less forgiving to beginners but is quickly got used to. Also, as you say the cleats (the bits on the sole of the shoe) are usually bigger and more obtrusive for road pedals, which will mean walking anymore than a few meters is awkward but still doable.

For someone new to clipless and on a budget I'd probably advise either the Crank Brothers Eggbeaters or one of entry-level Shimano pedals like the MD-540, which are both MTB pedals. That said, I'd never ridden anything but flats before I bought my Speedplay Zero pedals; they're probably more than you're looking to spend but it shows that you can dive right in to a proper road cleat with stiff entry and exit and not have any problems... apart from a couple of flops on my drive because I'm an idiot :D

Feel free to ask more if I've missed anything!

pretty much covered it - basically road pedals/shoes are not designed for walking in any further than from your door to the kerbside and back, or a quick slither across the floor of the cafe. Intending to do any more than that, I'd recommend MTB oriented pedals/shoe combos, as at least they have some form of tread on the sole.

That's very helpful of you both, thanks very much for the replies.

Going to try to have a look at some and maybe try some in store...
 
Bike fettled- worked out what bits needed tweaking and now brakes good and gears changing. Gears are clunking but in a positive way. It's smooth under normal pressure. Other bolts etc tightened and now longer creaking. Lets hope it doesn't fall apart on my cycle in tomorrow!
 
It would seem the fairweather cyclist numpties have started to come out of hibernation. Lots of weaving, huffing and dangerous cycling out there this morning. I am not fast myself but having to overtake the same people a number of times because they don't understand red lights or road markings does get a bit silly.
 
It would seem the fairweather cyclist numpties have started to come out of hibernation. Lots of weaving, huffing and dangerous cycling out there this morning. I am not fast myself but having to overtake the same people a number of times because they don't understand red lights or road markings does get a bit silly.

the missus was saying that saturday evening, riding X abreast down twisty roads etc.
 
the missus was saying that saturday evening, riding X abreast down twisty roads etc.

I guess that I may start getting a bit of commute rage from now on! Still, its better than sweaty armpits on the train.
 
It would seem the fairweather cyclist numpties have started to come out of hibernation. Lots of weaving, huffing and dangerous cycling out there this morning. I am not fast myself but having to overtake the same people a number of times because they don't understand red lights or road markings does get a bit silly.

I could not believe the difference this morning at London Bridge. From about 6 last week to about 30 this morning.

Don't get me started on people going through red lights, or planting themselves in front of me at red lights and moving off at snail's pace, multiple times.

I'm almost wishing for cold weather again!
 
I've got to the bottom of my shifting problems on the rear cassette. The derailleur hanger had come slightly loose so the derailleur must have been at a slight angle. The 3 screws to secure this particular hanger are on the inside of the frame so you have to pop the wheel off to get to them, which is why I hadn't looked at them before. A quick tighten of each of these (each screw could be turned well over 360 degrees) and then setting up the derailleur from scratch has things running as smoothly as ever...I still want that Campagnolo Centaur cassette upgrade though :D
 
Good news on the gears. I had mine sorted and then dropped my bike so need to do it again! Then the cleaner decided to iron my gore base layer top and bloody melted it! So I bought 2 to replace it. Gah! Middle class angst!

Going to do 30k as a slow start to the dunwich dynamo buildup with my mate on Sunday. May spend most of it drooling over the condor though...
 
Gah! Middle class angst!
:LOL: That's hilarious.
On that topic though what do you cycling-commuters where when riding into work? I'm after some new gear as I don't really where anything cycling specific at the moment and so I end up getting too hot or cold. The hardest thing to find is trousers that aren't so tight that they make me blush when walking into an office full of people :puke: I also don't really need the padding of cycling specific trousers so I'm at a bit of a loss what to get :shrug:
 
I decided on cycling clothes for my commute, makes it much more comfortable. Up until now I have been wearing DHB padded tights, a gore long sleeve baselayer (when the cleaner isn't melting it), running shorts, either a running t-shirt or cycle specific one and a yellow high vis long sleeve top. Round that off with my man snood (buff), merino wool socks and cycling shoes and I look a picture! I have also started to wear my sunglasses all of the time, changing the lenses as appropriate (so clear at the moment)- it is much more comfortable in the drizzle and wind. The ones I am using were only £20 (Avenir smoke I believe) and are great for cycling in.
 
On that topic though what do you cycling-commuters where when riding into work?

I think I need some new summer kit.

Winter kit have had the lycra style long tights. They have been brilliant (though they did threaten \ try to get pictures of me in the office with it on). I've had a merino wool top, under a windproof breathable jacket, and gloves. I've been hot just in that, and have swapped a couple of times so a light thin long armed running top.

Last time I just went on wiggle and started looking at what they had. If it's not windy I expect I'll just cycle in a sports type t-shirt, but I'll probably have some sort of lycra type padded shorts.

I tend to get a bit hot after a while, and have a backpack on with my stuff as well.
 
:LOL: That's hilarious.
On that topic though what do you cycling-commuters where when riding into work? I'm after some new gear as I don't really where anything cycling specific at the moment and so I end up getting too hot or cold. The hardest thing to find is trousers that aren't so tight that they make me blush when walking into an office full of people :puke: I also don't really need the padding of cycling specific trousers so I'm at a bit of a loss what to get :shrug:

Jeans, my toe capped ESD boots, and a polo shirt. If it's raining i stick some over trousers on and a hardshell coat.
 
A bit wet out there this morning. Top half kept very dry by one of my new purchases- a superb pearl izumi jacket (the pro barrier lite). The thing weighs nothing, is nicely windproof and decently waterproof. Is also bloody tiny and weighs about 90g. Best buy so far! My bottom half was less lucky. Ended up with wet feet despite my overshoes mainly because the water tracked down my tights and into my socks. Would have been better off in shorts I think.

The weather does clear the road of 5mph bimblers though!
 
A bit wet out there this morning. Top half kept very dry by one of my new purchases- a superb pearl izumi jacket (the pro barrier lite). The thing weighs nothing, is nicely windproof and decently waterproof. Is also bloody tiny and weighs about 90g. Best buy so far! My bottom half was less lucky. Ended up with wet feet despite my overshoes mainly because the water tracked down my tights and into my socks. Would have been better off in shorts I think.

The weather does clear the road of 5mph bimblers though!

I have the Pearl Izumi Pro Softshell 180 (now discontinued), which I bought in the sales for £80. It's probably the best bike purchase I've made besides the bike itself. So warm and comfortable for something relatively thin. It could keep the cold out even in temperatures I'm too much of a wimp to face. I really can't compliment it enough!
 
I have the Pearl Izumi Pro Softshell 180 (now discontinued), which I bought in the sales for £80. It's probably the best bike purchase I've made besides the bike itself. So warm and comfortable for something relatively thin. It could keep the cold out even in temperatures I'm too much of a wimp to face. I really can't compliment it enough!

They seem to make good stuff. Mine was £50 on the sale. when my wife saw it she decided she had to have one too but hers cost her £70! Still, if it works and it lasts for awhile a good purchase all the same.
 
****, I just realised this weekend is Bespoked Bristol and I'm stuck in Shropshire. Has/is anyone gone/going?
 
I spent a nice hour this morning cleaning my bike and pulling large chunks of glass out of my tyres. Quite hardy these new tyres.

Some visible splits in the tyre- are these anything to worry about? 2-3 ml long but none all the way through.
 
I spent a nice hour this morning cleaning my bike and pulling large chunks of glass out of my tyres. Quite hardy these new tyres.

Some visible splits in the tyre- are these anything to worry about? 2-3 ml long but none all the way through.

i've been known to re-seal those little "nicks" with the gel type superglue... just to prevent any further bits of grit buring themseves in there and eventually working through... I'm sure there's probably something better, but it's worked pretty well for me :shrug:
 
i've been known to re-seal those little "nicks" with the gel type superglue... just to prevent any further bits of grit buring themseves in there and eventually working through... I'm sure there's probably something better, but it's worked pretty well for me :shrug:

Thanks Mark. I will have a look and see what I have at home to gum up the holes.
 
"back in the day" I vaguely remember that there was a specific filler compound you could get to fix the nicks in the horrendously expensive Tubular Tyres (the gloop was made by Clement iirc) - though being a cheapskate, I confess I used a product called "Shoe Goo" - which was originally made for repairing basketball shoes.

As I say, these days, the tyres are much more robust, the "breaker beads" that most manufacturers have stop an awful lot of the problems, and I find that just a drop of the gel type superglue holds the outer rubber closed reasonably well. I'm sure that the stronger "contact adhesives" would do a similar job.
 
Took advantage of the weather this Sunday and ewnt over 20 miles for the first time. Went round Bushy and Richmond Park rom home. RP was packed with cyclists and the wind was a bit crazy, on a few occasions me and the bike (a combined 100kg) were blown sideways. Lots of fun though- very jealous of my mate's condor though, beautiful bike!

Also took advantage of the weather this morning and commuted in with shorts rather than tights- might be time to shed the long sleeve base layer too it was so toasty. Happy days!
 
Yesterday was pretty Brutal - I wanted to get a decent workout in, but my regular longer loop would have seen the last 25 miles pretty much straight into the teeth of a 25mph headwind - not what you want with 50-60 miles already in your legs. So - instead I stayed fairly local to home, but did a ride that looped around and around, taking in most of the hills in a 15 mile radius, but never really keeping going in the same direction, just to get some respite from the wind here and there. Ended up with just over 83km miles and 1354m of ascent (1.63130% climbing)- to give some idea of how much harder than my "regular loop" that is - normally I do nearer 50km miles and 550m (1.1%) - Doesn't sound much in terms of % climbing I know - but it's a big step up over normal - especially when the wind was blowing around 15mph, gusting to 30+ :LOL:
 
Saw that on Strava, looked pretty tough to me! I had trouble with my 300m in 33k yesterday- the problem with RP is that if it is windy one set of hills gets a tail wind whilst the other get a head wind. Yesterday it was blustery and changable and I ended up with what felt like headwinds all the way round.

Superb stuff though Mark! ;)
 
was great weather yesterday and my outing ended up with a puncture :/
thanks to stupid women that went in front of me when I was taking a turn and she walked on to the road after seeing me and a van that were turning...so instead of hitting her managed to turn but back wheel hit on a kerb and few seconds later I have noticed lack of air in rear tyre...I know I hit just on the corner of the kerb otherwise it wouldn’t blow.
Just my luck heh…

I am selling my road shoes on TP if anyone looks for shoes :) :
 
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