Pedal Power Thread

I have been using schwalbe inners as they had a nice range that covered both my 25 and 28 tyres. Now I only have 25's I will be going with whatever I can get at a good price!

I have one of these that I carry in the middle pocket of my short sleeve jerseys:

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/topeak-mini-dx-master-blaster-pump-with-gauge/

I have one of these CO2 jobbies (sure I paid less that that though!):

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/genuine-innovations-air-chuck-elite-tyre-inflator/

Get CO2 refills from one of the places cheap online.

As for puncture repair, use the park instant patches, they are great. I also carry one of their tyre boots. Make sure you get good tyre levers as well, not some rubbish cheapo ones- they need to be strong!
 
ah - tyre boots - I just carry a section of 3cm wide 10cm long Emery Cloth... use the rough side against the inside of the tyre and it'll stay in place - plus it serves double use as being handy for roughening/losing the moulding lines on inner tubes prior to patching.

(though I'll admit - I've used everything from a Gel Wrapper or discarded crisp bag through to a £5 note as makeshift boots in the past. Fortunately clincher sidewalls seem to be a bit tougher than they used to be when the first generation 700c narrow clinchers came out... Michelin Elan's - I had 5 tyres lose a sidewall before one of them actually wore the moulding pip's off the rolling surface! - I went back to Tub's for a year or so until the technology matured a little... Switched to Wolber W20's and never looked back)
 
TheBigYin said:
ah - tyre boots - I just carry a section of 3cm wide 10cm long Emery Cloth... use the rough side against the inside of the tyre and it'll stay in place - plus it serves double use as being handy for roughening/losing the moulding lines on inner tubes prior to patching.

(though I'll admit - I've used everything from a Gel Wrapper or discarded crisp bag through to a £5 note as makeshift boots in the past. Fortunately clincher sidewalls seem to be a bit tougher than they used to be when the first generation 700c narrow clinchers came out... Michelin Elan's - I had 5 tyres lose a sidewall before one of them actually wore the moulding pip's off the rolling surface! - I went back to Tub's for a year or so until the technology matured a little... Switched to Wolber W20's and never looked back)
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The boots were part of a last minute panic buy for the dynamo but are small and were relatively cheap I just keep them in my commuting saddlebag. I have heard of many things being used though to cobble together a working tyre! ;)
 
TheBigYin said:
ah - tyre boots - I just carry a section of 3cm wide 10cm long Emery Cloth... use the rough side against the inside of the tyre and it'll stay in place - plus it serves double use as being handy for roughening/losing the moulding lines on inner tubes prior to patching.

(though I'll admit - I've used everything from a Gel Wrapper or discarded crisp bag through to a £5 note as makeshift boots in the past. Fortunately clincher sidewalls seem to be a bit tougher than they used to be when the first generation 700c narrow clinchers came out... Michelin Elan's - I had 5 tyres lose a sidewall before one of them actually wore the moulding pip's off the rolling surface! - I went back to Tub's for a year or so until the technology matured a little... Switched to Wolber W20's and never looked back)
Click to expand...

danmon_81 said:
apparently a fiver is useful as a patch!!
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:)
 
But what do you buy the cake with when you stop? ;)

(Unless you are at the top of box hill, where you need to take out a second morgage to be able to afford a coffee and a cake!)
 
menthel said:
But what do you buy the cake with when you stop? ;)

(Unless you are at the top of box hill, where you need to take out a second morgage to be able to afford a coffee and a cake!)
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As I go out on my own, don't take a lock with me, cake stops are not exactly on the agenda... I don't ride far enough to merit a cake stop anyway, can't remember when I last got topside of 90 miles in a day... you can do that on a bottle of water and a PB&J butty.
 
TheBigYin said:
As I go out on my own, don't take a lock with me, cake stops are not exactly on the agenda... I don't ride far enough to merit a cake stop anyway, can't remember when I last got topside of 90 miles in a day... you can do that on a bottle of water and a PB&J butty.
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A 5 minute cycle is enough excuse for cake for me! Mmm, cake...
 
I don't like to stop when I cycle. I get on the bike at my door and ideally don't put my foot on the ground again until I get back to my door.
 
TriggerHappy said:
I don't like to stop when I cycle. I get on the bike at my door and ideally don't put my foot on the ground again until I get back to my door.
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I usually make a point of stopping and stretching every 4-5 hours otherwise my hip plays up the following day, but, for as a general principle I'd agree with your plan of attack :)
 
I picked up what I think was a great bargain from eBay.

Noticed a Gary Fisher Level Betty described in very good condition for its age (15 years). It was local to me and I have been thinking about getting a full suspension bike for a while having started getting out and about a lot more this year on my bike, so I thought I'd take a look.

I was astounded, the bike looked about 2 years old and had clearly been very well cared for and not abused. The guy selling it a garage full of bikes for the family all in excellent condition. He then went and got the manuals etc that came with it when he bought it from his local bike store - they were still sealed up!

Anyway I seem to have acquired the bike for £150. It may be 15 years old and technology has moved on but it is fantastic to ride and I get the feeling it'll last many more years. The only thing I have done us replace the Icon pedals with my Shimanos. The Icons may look very splendid in shiny red but I don't fancy falling over again as I struggle to extricate my cleats from them :)
 
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While planning outing to city tomorrow, I found out that there is a bike show in Excel....On my way there now...
 
Can recommend Swiss stop greens. For them put on my bike whilst it was in for its service and they are very stoppy! Should be better in the wet too hopefully. That was what I got them for.
 
Wondering if people can recommend me a good bike for commuting, I would say my budget is around £400-500, My commute is about 6 miles each way all on road or foot paths, currently doing this route on my Specialized mountain bike with some slick tyres fitted but wondering if it's worth moving up to a 700c sized wheel bike?

Looking to treat myself to an Orange Crush hardtail as well as they have just launched the 2014 version with 650b wheels. so dunno if it's worth using this for commuting and swapping the tyres for something a bit slicker but dunno if i want the faff of constantly swapping tyres when I want to ride off road.
 
stop using SIS high5 and other isotonics!!!!!

I have found the best one there is!!!! and it tastes like Beer!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Untitled by Lukasz Baszko, on Flickr
 
I ran a series of "challenges" on another website this spring which were themed around the spring classics, and gave "spot prizes" for photographic proof of appropriate mid-ride refreshments and post ride recovery drinks...

now bearing in mind most of the spring classics are either in or near enough to belgium, you can imagine what the "appropriate" items were...

believe me, most belgian "dubbels" and "trippels" are NOT an appropriate post 70-100km ride source of rehydration. didn't stop me trying to find one that was though...
 
Back home after 32miles cycle.
Wanted to meet Jim but my other half decided to come back earlier from Canterbury so needed to leave early.
Main reason is to clean flat before she comes back ;)
 
bastic said:
Back home after 32miles cycle.
Wanted to meet Jim but my other half decided to come back earlier from Canterbury so needed to leave early.
Main reason is to clean flat before she comes back ;)
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Sorry we were late- the side effect of having a 4 year old lunatic to look after. Glad you had a nice ride.

The whole freeride was a bit bonkers. Kind of like commuting at its worst, I would have preferred cars! Still, everyone was having fun and my son seemed to enjoy himself!
 
menthel said:
Sorry we were late- the side effect of having a 4 year old lunatic to look after. Glad you had a nice ride.

The whole freeride was a bit bonkers. Kind of like commuting at its worst, I would have preferred cars! Still, everyone was having fun and my son seemed to enjoy himself!
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No worries.
If SHMBO wouldn't change her mind, I would hang around for longer.
As for madness, yes..I agree...few times.I had to burn my breaks as few year old ones decided to turn my way.
It was cute to see small kids on bikes but it would be nice if they would stick to left hand side of the road.
All in all great experience
 
OK I admit that I haven't read through this thread so perhaps this topic has already been covered...if so, then my appologies.

I'm in need of tyre renewal .....at present using 700 x 23 Michelin Lithion

Used this brand/style for quite some time but feel the need to try something different as although they've served well, they don't offer the best traction when the roads are humid.

Hutchinson and Mavic tyres seem to be popular down here ...exactly which model I'm not sure tbh.

I don't do competition but i do ride when I ride if you understand what I mean so a certain amount of performance is required although losing grams of weight is not an issue in itself.

Similar kevlar lined isn't a necesity although some umphh again is in order not least of all to cope with the road surfaces!

What do you guys use on your road bikes??
 
continental gator skin is great all rounder
 
Went and watched the pros come through Raynes Park today- blimey they are quick! Shame none of the spare bikes fell off into my hands. ;)
 
Watched most of it today on the box.


Its now made me want a road bike, or at least a fast hybrid.
Trouble is, I've just spent a wad on a new mtb so funds will be pretty small if I do decide to go ahead.
 
menthel said:
Went and watched the pros come through Raynes Park today- blimey they are quick! Shame none of the spare bikes fell off into my hands. ;)
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I've seen them on tv...they were blazing fast
 
lewis about to rip the trails

1000921_10201548627739132_1406203035_n.jpg
 
Just done my first clubrun in over 3 years, averaged over 17mph so happy with that. Just need to be able to get out more regularly which should be easier in the coming weeks
 
guys need help..
have noticed that there is movement between headset and frame.
if it should be stiff and there should be no movement at all, then there is a lot...

9490582695_c862a3acce_c.jpg


on the photo : there is a small gap between frame and headset - you can see it, it all moves.
Vertical line shows which way it all moves..

is that something bad ? how do I tighten in ?
Screw on top of headset is tight and won’t get tighter

Please advise
 
bastic said:
guys need help..
have noticed that there is movement between headset and frame.
if it should be stiff and there should be no movement at all, then there is a lot...

9490582695_c862a3acce_c.jpg


on the photo : there is a small gap between frame and headset - you can see it, it all moves.
Vertical line shows which way it all moves..

is that something bad ? how do I tighten in ?
Screw on top of headset is tight and won’t get tighter

Please advise
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undo the stem bolts on the steerer, tighten the nut on top of the steerer until the movement goes away but the steering doesnt become too stiff. retighten stem bolts.
 
neil_g said:
undo the stem bolts on the steerer, tighten the nut on top of the steerer until the movement goes away but the steering doesnt become too stiff. retighten stem bolts.
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This. Should be a two minute fix with an Allen key.

I am struggling not to tell you to slam that stem, though :D
 
Ok. Hopefully you have some Allen keys as they will be needed for this simple job.

Loosen the two Allen bolts on the stem, next to the 'I' on your picture. This will should make the handle bars loose meaning you can turn them and the front wheel does not do alot.

Then tighten the top cap half a turn. The top cap is the single Allen bolt through the top of the stem.

Now give your front brake a squeeze and rock the handle bars forward and backwards. There should be no play or movement in the headset. Once this is the case tighten up the two stem Allen bolts, making sure the bars are straight.

At this point the steering may feel stiff. This means you have over tightened the top cap and squeezed the forks a bit too tight in to the bearings. You may need to complete the process again and ease off the tightness a little.

Doing this simple adjustment a couple of times in the headset bearings life is ok. But if it happens with regularity then it may be time to change the bearings and possibly the headset.
 
MG TF 135 said:
Ok. Hopefully you have some Allen keys as they will be needed for this simple job.

Loosen the two Allen bolts on the stem, next to the 'I' on your picture. This will should make the handle bars loose meaning you can turn them and the front wheel does not do alot.

Then tighten the top cap half a turn. The top cap is the single Allen bolt through the top of the stem.

Now give your front brake a squeeze and rock the handle bars forward and backwards. There should be no play or movement in the headset. Once this is the case tighten up the two stem Allen bolts, making sure the bars are straight.

At this point the steering may feel stiff. This means you have over tightened the top cap and squeezed the forks a bit too tight in to the bearings. You may need to complete the process again and ease off the tightness a little.

Doing this simple adjustment a couple of times in the headset bearings life is ok. But if it happens with regularity then it may be time to change the bearings and possibly the headset.
Click to expand...

perfect way to do it :)

but I agree the stem needs slamming a bit (y)
 
done what you guys said, it is better but still there is small movement...much smaller then it was earlier..

am unable to tight it more with top screw...dont want to force it too much...
 
bastic said:
done what you guys said, it is better but still there is small movement...much smaller then it was earlier..

am unable to tight it more with top screw...dont want to force it too much...
Click to expand...

I'd have it looked at by someone who knows what they're doing - not necessarily have to be a bike shop - anyone of the 3 or 4 people who posted above could probably sort in 5 minutes, as could I, if it was in front of me in my workshop - there are a few things it could be - all pretty obvious "in the metal" but hard to diagnose in words.

Could be the expander plug in the fork tube has slipped and come upwards, so you can't get the tension because the top-cap is already tight to the expander plug.

Could be that the steerer had been cut a little long, so as you tension with the top-bolt the top-cap has come into contact with the end of the steerer tube, and can't be tightened any more.

Could just be the bearings are shagged.

top and bottom of it, get it looked at by someone you trust, asap, as the knocking WILL damage something - if you're lucky, the bearings, if you aren't then the bearing seats in the frame or the frame head-tube itself.
 
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