Show us yer film shots then!

excalibur2 said:
Nice shot and also nice to know that someone here also uses a Konica camera and lenses, but anyone thinking of a getting a Konica camera would advise not to get the latest ones e.g. FT1 and FS1 etc
Click to expand...
Thanks Brian, the T2 seems pretty solid, and in the absence of mercury batteries, I use it without batteries as a fully manual camera. I originally bought it for just £27 with a 57mm f1.2 lens (which has fungus but still performs well) and have just added the 40mm f/1.8 lens to my kit.
 
Kevin Allan said:
Thanks Brian, the T2 seems pretty solid, and in the absence of mercury batteries, I use it without batteries as a fully manual camera. I originally bought it for just £27 with a 57mm f1.2 lens (which has fungus but still performs well) and have just added the 40mm f/1.8 lens to my kit.
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Well I've fitted two ag13-1.5v batteries in my Autoreflex TC (with the usual corrections)........... Maybe yours is the similar if you want to use the exposure meter.
 
excalibur2 said:
Well I've fitted two ag13-1.5v batteries in my Autoreflex TC (with the usual corrections)........... Maybe yours is the similar if you want to use the exposure meter.
Click to expand...
I read somewhere that the output of LR44 batteries (equivalent to AG13) will fluctuate over time so that a single calculation of how much to shift exposure won't be reliable. But if they work for you, that's great.
 
What is going on here?
My first chrome in 4X5. There is a blue band at the top of the frame and it seems like I have a light leak.

FirstLFE6.JPG
 
LF guys. Where is this light leak coming from?
And what's causing the blue band at the top of all my pictures?
LF SUCKS!

FirstLFE6 (3).JPG
 
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soupdragon said:
The dynamic range of e100 is not great.
View attachment 402015
Click to expand...

The dynamic range of E100 is quite good for a Positive film but you have the incorrect exposure!

Your shot is underexposed, Exposure with E100 is critical; unless you get it right results will be poor, get it right and the film is awesome.

Again - this could be a development issue? How did you develop this film; developing Positive film is even harder than colour negative.

Cant help with lightleak, sorry
 
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Jammy Dodger said:
The dynamic range of E100 is quite good for a Positive film but you have the incorrect exposure!

Your shot is underexposed, Exposure with E100 is critical; unless you get it right results will be poor, get it right and the film is awesome.

Again - this could be a development issue? How did you develop this film; developing Positive film is even harder than colour negative.

Cant help with lightleak, sorry
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Since you mention it, I have a feeling it's a processing problem.
It was a clear day and I was using ambient light readings.

As for the rest of the problems I have two brand new Toyo film holders being delivered on Wednesday.
 
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soupdragon said:
LF guys. Where is this light leak coming from?
And what's causing the blue band at the top of all my pictures?
LF SUCKS!

View attachment 402023
Click to expand...
The dark band could be due to having insufficient developer in the tank, if you are using a system where the film lies horizontally in the tank.

The light leak could be from the bellows and/or the film holder.
 
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I'd go with the film holder. The diagonal white stripe makes me think that there may be a crack. Depending on how Tony loads his holders, the corner to check should be easy to check. I load mine so that the notches are at the opening end, so that I can check easily in the dark if a slide is loaded. If Tony does it that way as well, then the hinge tape could be looked at.
 
Kevin Allan said:
The dark band could be due to having insufficient developer in the tank, if you are using a system where the film lies horizontally in the tank.

The light leak could be from the bellows and/or the film holder.
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I thought that at first but it's a MOD54 holder in a Paterson tank.
 
Lovely picture @PeterSpencer the ostrich at the foreground looks like an old lady yapping at someone that’s about to trespass
 
After I had acquired my Asahi Pentax S3 body a few months ago I picked up a lens off Ebay for it which came with a rear lens cap in the form of an Asahi Pentax SV body. As received the slow shutter speeds did not work, all returning a speed of around 1/60. I would occasionally pick up the body and exercise the shutter and a couple of weeks ago the slow speeds suddenly started working. This encouraged me to put a test roll of Foma 400 through the SV. Saturday was wet so was a no go but Sunday morning was dry, although dull with a heavy overcast, but with withdrawal symptoms kicking in I took my chance and shot the entire roll in the morning dog walk. Brighter weather would have been nicer, I was struggling with the focus at time and missing the split image screen of my OMs! But at least I had no light leaks and frame spacing was consistent so I'm counting it as a success.

Bertie and Gussie cadging treatsIMG_8737.jpeg
Fomapan 400
Super-Takumar 55mm f/1.8
Asahi Pentax SV
Developed in Ilford Microphen
 
Excellent Nige, b&w works great on this one
 
In a fit of madness I decided to see if my Dad's old No. 1 Pocket Kodak still had light tight bellows and put a roll of Fomapan 200 through it last weekend. I developed the roll today and was pleased to see no light leaks. I got the usual black spots and marks which seem to be a 'feature' of certain batches of the Foma 200 120 roll film.

The internet tells me that the No. 1 Pocket Kodak was made in USA from 1926 to 1932 and in the UK from 1929 to 1933. I assume mine is the UK model as the instruction book has Kodak's English address. Mine has the cheaper achromatic meniscus lens with four aperture settings marked 1,2,3 and 4 and as you can see my guesses as to the f numbers were a bit off. Of course, the shutter speeds, a choice between 1/25 and 1/50, might be off too, as might my use of a Zeiss Ikon Ikophot light meter! It was the morning dog walk and the fact that the sun hadn't risen above the hills to the east of the village didn't help either. Still, no light leaks so I'm counting this as a win!

Fairlie ParkIMG_8826.jpeg

Castlepark Drive, FairlieIMG_8824.jpeg

Station Pets, FairlieIMG_8825.jpeg

Fairlie Yacht ClubIMG_2023-09-30-194518.jpeg

Fomapan 200
No. 1 Pocket Kodak
Ilford Microphen, 9 mins @ 20°C
 
Your camera was probably using the US system of apertures (invented in the UK, "US" stands for "Uniform System").

Uniform System of lens apertures

Description of the Uniform System of lens apertures.
www.sizes.com
 
StephenM said:
Your camera was probably using the US system of apertures (invented in the UK, "US" stands for "Uniform System").

Uniform System of lens apertures

Description of the Uniform System of lens apertures.
www.sizes.com
Click to expand...

I think it's actually the "simple" scale which is described here - https://throughavintagelens.com/2010/01/the-u-s-f-stop-system/
"1" is roughly equivalent to f/11
"2" is roughly equivalent to f/16
"3" is roughly equivalent to f/22
"4" is roughly equivalent to f/32
 
Flighter said:
In a fit of madness I decided to see if my Dad's old No. 1 Pocket Kodak still had light tight bellows and put a roll of Fomapan 200 through it last weekend. I developed the roll today and was pleased to see no light leaks. I got the usual black spots and marks which seem to be a 'feature' of certain batches of the Foma 200 120 roll film.

The internet tells me that the No. 1 Pocket Kodak was made in USA from 1926 to 1932 and in the UK from 1929 to 1933. I assume mine is the UK model as the instruction book has Kodak's English address. Mine has the cheaper achromatic meniscus lens with four aperture settings marked 1,2,3 and 4 and as you can see my guesses as to the f numbers were a bit off. Of course, the shutter speeds, a choice between 1/25 and 1/50, might be off too, as might my use of a Zeiss Ikon Ikophot light meter! It was the morning dog walk and the fact that the sun hadn't risen above the hills to the east of the village didn't help either. Still, no light leaks so I'm counting this as a win!

Fairlie ParkView attachment 402630

Castlepark Drive, FairlieView attachment 402632

Station Pets, FairlieView attachment 402631

Fairlie Yacht ClubView attachment 402633

Fomapan 200
No. 1 Pocket Kodak
Ilford Microphen, 9 mins @ 20°C
Click to expand...

They really are very good, considering.
 
Thanks @StephenM and @Kevin Allan

I think it may be indeed be the 'simple scale' which helps to explain my results as I had proceeded on the basis that 1 was f/8.

The introductory page to the instructions mentions that the camera has either a "Single or "Kodar" f7.9 Lens" and indeed the picture of the Kodar lens has aperture stops at 7.9, 11, 16, 22, 32 and 45. Thinking about it more, it is unlikely that the cheaper single lens would also have a maximum aperture of 7.9. If the simple scale applies the the maximum aperture, marked 1, would be f/11, whereas under the US scale 1 would equate to f/4.

I've seen various statements on the web that the camera uses uses an achromatic meniscus lens with a maximum aperture of f/6.3 or f/7.7 but I think this is optimistic if the more expensive Kodar lens was only f/7.9.IMG_8829.jpegIMG_8830.jpeg
 
These are the instructions for selecting the aperture. A shutter speed of 1/25 sec is suggested and aperture 1 is suggested unless the sunlight is unusuallystrong in which case aperture 2 is recommended. Applying 'Sunny 16, if 2 is f/16, suggests that the film speed would be ASA 25 which doesn't seem out of line for a general purpose film in the 1930s (Verichrome Safety Film (the predecessor to Verichrome Pan) ?).IMG_8832.jpeg
 
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