ChrisR
I'm a well known grump...
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That effect seems to be approximately what the Lensbaby tilt lens does, ie more selective blurring than selective plane of focus. I was interested in the latter!
Currently looking at lenses for my zorki 4k.... I have a 50mm but want a few more
There are a few M39 screw lenses out there... which ones do you have in mind?
I have the possibility of a 1950s 135mm. Canon f3.5 IIRC
I have already got hold of a view finder turret covering 135/80/35mm (I think those were the sizes)
They would indeed, the canon is sort of available hence the reason I mentioned it.No russian lenses then?... because a Jupiter 9, 11, 12 and a KMZ Turret Finder would complete a very nice set.
Just like a VW Campervan should be, on the back of a transporter.Not strictly film kit but something which is going to help with photographic trips!!
View attachment 98949
Just like a VW Campervan should be, on the back of a transporter.
Yes, but if you tax it today you'll pay from the start of March (and for 30 days you've not used it!), or is it different these days now it's gone electronic?It's just arrived off the boat......in time to avoid the road tax hike from tomorrow!!
Yes, but if you tax it today you'll pay from the start of March (and for 30 days you've not used it!), or is it different these days now it's gone electronic?
I really miss my M6. Had two M2's previously, both in good nick, the second was pretty much as god as you could expect from a 60 year old camera. Enjoyed both and great to use but had a hankering for an M6 - as I shoot my kids a fair bit it was a bit of a pain to faff with a meter. The M6 was a dream. Picked up a great sumicron at a decent price too and it was a great combo. I sold as I didn't use it as much as I should and wanted the money for other stuff, but if i was to go back i would get an M6 like a shot.
Sunny 16 seems to work ok. I printed out a chart and stuck it on the rolleiflex. Works fine with Portra. I'm not sure whether Ektar would be quite so tolerant. Set to 1/250 instead of 1/500 though for 400 speed film as that is an awkward speed to get at on the Automat.
Shooting at half box speed AND metering for shadows? Both at once?Yeah it's handy to have something with you as reference. I did find that the less I worried about it, the happier I was. I stick to Portra or Tri-X/HP5 usually and often overexpose by shooting at half box speed and metering for shadows. Been pretty happy with the results.
Shooting at half box speed AND metering for shadows? Both at once?
Shooting at half box speed AND metering for shadows? Both at once?
Shooting at half box speed AND metering for shadows? Both at once?
.....shadows metering plus O/E of a stop if not twoHeck, I often meter for the shadows and overexpose by two stops.
The Leica R7. Wondering whether it is a better choice than the R4 or R5...
If you lived near Edinburgh, you could have borrowed mine for a trial.
It's pretty heavy but feels solid and well screwed together.
A Canon T90... goodness knows why, I have an A1 and an EOS-3, so I have the 35mm manual focus, multi-mode, and auto-everything with machine gun type motor-drive options covered, so I don't know why I'm even thinking of a T90! All the size and weight disadvantages of a later auto-focus 35mm camera, with the encumbrance of manual focus! With any luck I won't be able to find a nice one at a good price and the feeling will pass!
I know what you mean, I used to own two of them in the 90s (complete with paperback instruction book!), 300TL flash, interchangeable focusing screens and a selection of FD lenses from 24mm to a 600mm mirror. In the end I bit the bullet, sold the lot, and switched to auto-focus via a second hand EOS 600 (just to make sure they'd got this new-fangled autofocus sorted!).You gotta get the matching flashgun 300 TL to go with it, and with both you'll enjoy your time in the small room trying to get thru' the instruction manuals.
I've now decided I don't like manual focus SLRs so the OM Olympusssessss and the R7 are for the high jump. I am Tigger. Tiggers did think they liked MF SLRs but it turned out they were lazy and preferred AF ones.
I've now decided I don't like manual focus SLRs so the OM Olympusssessss and the R7 are for the high jump. I am Tigger. Tiggers did think they liked MF SLRs but it turned out they were lazy and preferred AF ones.
I love my dynax but I think I want a Nikon equivalent ish. Maybe with a fast 35mm prime instead of my usual 50mm.... are there any 35mm f2 lens that would go with a nikon 2000s vintage slr that wouldn't be silly money ie under £200 the lot? Or would my usual 500 f1.7 come in for that with a nikon AF body? It can't be too heavy. Or shiny tat colour. Black only. The R7 is too heavy and that's much of the reason I'm getting rid. It's heavier than the Fuji 120 P & S beast for a start.
I would get another dynax but the 7 has the aperture control issue that kills them and I think the 5 also does. I haven't seen another 9 for sale in donkeys. I'd think the old Nikon Pro bodies will be like cock roaches for longevity too.
You might consider:I love my dynax but I think I want a Nikon equivalent ish. Maybe with a fast 35mm prime instead of my usual 50mm.... are there any 35mm f2 lens that would go with a nikon 2000s vintage slr that wouldn't be silly money ie under £200 the lot? Or would my usual 50mm f1.7 come in for that with a nikon AF body? It can't be too heavy. Or shiny tat colour. Black only. The R7 is too heavy and that's much of the reason I'm getting rid. It's heavier than the Fuji 120 P & S beast for a start.
No, they are compatible with Leica M or Leica screwmount, not R. You could buy an adapter, but it won't be rangefinder-coupled. You could buy an adapter for some lighter SLR, but it doesn't seem worth the bother to save a few grams and lose open aperture metering, etc. (it won't be auto anything).Other thought is to get an auto exposure body which is much lighter than the r7 which takes the same summicron r lens.
Would any of the voigtlander bessa bodies fit this? R7 is about 900g and feels more. It's not much more than the dynax but somehow it feels twice the weight.
I've been puzzling over the meter in my new eBay purchase, an Exakta RTL1000. It seems to go from "extremely under" to "extremely over" in one click of the aperture ring - might this be because I've got the wrong kind of battery in it? I stuck a generic 1.5v button cell in there, but I remember reading somewhere that the slightly more expensive silver button cells give a smoother voltage? Would this possibly be the cause?
Ahaaaaa, my lack of electronics knowledge betrays me! Thanks for the explanation. I'll do a few more tests in different light situations, see what the problem might be. Then give up and use the meter on my phone!I'm not sure that it's the cause of your problem, but silver oxide cells maintain a constant voltage throughout their lifespan, and then suddenly fail altogether, whereas alkaline batteries gradually lose voltage before failing. Based on this, a silver oxide cell is the better choice for a light meter as it will be consistent throughout it's life. Even if it's the wrong voltage for the camera (e.g. 1.5v instead of 1.35v), at least you can compensate consistently for it's effect on the meter reading.