Soft Images

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Hi Guys,

I was wondering if you could help me with some set-up questions, I am assuming that there is something in my settings that I could change to help.

7764687112_86670c408c_c.jpg


As an example here is one of the pictures.

my settings were;

1/500
ISO-160
Focal Length 300mm
F/5.6

Camera Nikon 5100
Lens Tamron 70-300mm

Let me know if you need any more info.
 
Stopping your lens down a bit and then increasing the ISO (to keep the shutter speed above 1/300th) would probably have helped. You'd have had a bit more depth of field and also most lenses tend not to give best results wide open.
 
Can't tell from the size of the photo but the piece of rope looks sharper than the people.
Your DoF could have been a tad too low meaning the people a bit behind the rope are not as in focus.
It is also not helped by the people being in shade.
 
I can't really tell from looking at the photo - it looks pretty much in focus to me, but a few things come to mind that could affect the sharpness/softness (as well as points already raised by other posters) - equipment (lens and it's 'sweet-spot' - what aperture does it give best IQ? Does it get softer at 300mm than it is at 270mm? etc.) and also PP - how far it has been cropped (the posted image is 800px × 450px), sharpening settings applied et.al. There seems to be a bit of green and (some but less) purple fringing too.
 
I don't see much wrong here sharpness wise!

+1. Sharpness is ok, not sure about the accuracey of focus. The rope is the clue.
 
+1. Sharpness is ok, not sure about the accuracey of focus. The rope is the clue.

I think that the girl's hair is as much (if not more) in focus as the rope - but the rope contrasts more against the background and just appears sharper because of that.

I've taken the liberty to do some drastic sharpening to illustrate how different the PP can make the image.

soft1.jpg
 
Just out of curiosity I opened the picture in FastStone image viewer (free download) and put the sharpening slider up to 10 and it looks much better IMO. Any higher than 10 looks a bit unnatural I think.
 
Stopping your lens down a bit and then increasing the ISO (to keep the shutter speed above 1/300th) would probably have helped. You'd have had a bit more depth of field and also most lenses tend not to give best results wide open.

I have always tried to avoid upping ISO for fear of graining but maybe I'm being over cautious so will give that a go.

Thanks for the tip


I can't really tell from looking at the photo - it looks pretty much in focus to me, but a few things come to mind that could affect the sharpness/softness (as well as points already raised by other posters) - equipment (lens and it's 'sweet-spot' - what aperture does it give best IQ? Does it get softer at 300mm than it is at 270mm? etc.) and also PP - how far it has been cropped (the posted image is 800px × 450px), sharpening settings applied et.al. There seems to be a bit of green and (some but less) purple fringing too.

Sorry for the idiot question but was is 'IQ'?

In all honesty I haven't played around with the lens enough to discover its sweet spot so maybe I need to do that to understand it a little better.

As for Cropping, I haven't got the original image to hand but it was quite heavily cropped.

With regards to the green and purple fringing, is there something you can advise to help with that? I'm completely in the dark with PP on photo's so any advise for this would be good.

Thanks everyone for your comments so far, hopefully this will help me get the pictures right and improve my knowledge.
 
IQ is Image Quality.

Don't worry too much about ISO until 800, your camera can cope just fine. After that it still copes well the noise is just a little more apparent.

Are you shooting RAW? If so you need to some sharpening when you get home, the fringing is (likely) caused by Chromatic aberration and can be corrected (to a degree) in post processing.

Have you got access to Light Room or the like? I'm sure the default software that comes with your camera will have some, most, of these features any way.
 
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I have always tried to avoid upping ISO for fear of graining but maybe I'm being over cautious so will give that a go.

Thanks for the tip




Sorry for the idiot question but was is 'IQ'?

In all honesty I haven't played around with the lens enough to discover its sweet spot so maybe I need to do that to understand it a little better.

As for Cropping, I haven't got the original image to hand but it was quite heavily cropped.

With regards to the green and purple fringing, is there something you can advise to help with that? I'm completely in the dark with PP on photo's so any advise for this would be good.

Thanks everyone for your comments so far, hopefully this will help me get the pictures right and improve my knowledge.


I really wouldn't worry too much about graining. The D5100 handles noise excellently to the point where you'll get usable results up to 6400. ISO 200 or 400 will show almost no noise at all. It's good to keep ISO low but not if it's going to detriment your images.

IQ= Image Quality.

Is this the standard 70-300 Tamron or the VC model? If it's the cheaper standard one, you have to accept that it isn't the sharpest lens ever conceived but it is capable of delivering reasonable results with a bit of care. Stopping down to F/8 would be a big help as would getting the shutter speed even higher to make absolutely sure you're eliminating camera shake. As others have said, you'd probably find the lens sharper at 200mm than 300mm, just the nature of the beast but if you can't get closer, that's not much use!

The green and purple fringing is CA (chromatic abberation). Again things will improve at shorter focal lengths.
 
IQ is Image Quality.

Don't worry too much about ISO until 800, your camera can cope just fine. After that it still copes well the noise is just a little more apparent.

Are you shooting RAW? If so you need to some sharpening when you get home, the fringing is (likely) caused by Chromatic aberration and can be corrected (to a degree) in post processing.

Have you got access to Light Room or the like? I'm sure the default software that comes with your camera will have some, most, of these features any way.

Image Quality, wow I probably should have worked that out! I thought it was going to be some super duper technical term!

good to know about ISO, I did go up to around 400 the other day in fairly dark conditions and was convinced the images would be shocking. Good to know I can push that up a fair bit.

The image above was shot in raw and did have a little sharpening but I don't like to go too far with it as I think it can sometimes ruin an image but maybe I didn't go far enough with this.

I don't have Light Room, I think I'm probably at far too amateur level to be investing in software like that just yet and would prefer to get some better kit before I go down that route (no external flash, tripod is a little sketchy etc).

I am just using the standard "View NX2" that came with the camera which has done me ok for now bearing in mind I don't have much experience with PP, I just make a few tweaks to see what I think brings out a good result.

I really wouldn't worry too much about graining. The D5100 handles noise excellently to the point where you'll get usable results up to 6400. ISO 200 or 400 will show almost no noise at all. It's good to keep ISO low but not if it's going to detriment your images.

IQ= Image Quality.

Is this the standard 70-300 Tamron or the VC model? If it's the cheaper standard one, you have to accept that it isn't the sharpest lens ever conceived but it is capable of delivering reasonable results with a bit of care. Stopping down to F/8 would be a big help as would getting the shutter speed even higher to make absolutely sure you're eliminating camera shake. As others have said, you'd probably find the lens sharper at 200mm than 300mm, just the nature of the beast but if you can't get closer, that's not much use!

The green and purple fringing is CA (chromatic abberation). Again things will improve at shorter focal lengths.

It is unfortunately just the standard Tamron so I do appreciate that its not always going to produce the best results.

I'll defiantly look to bring the aperture down by playing more with ISO. Good point about the shutter speed as I think the lens is known for suffering with shake due to a lack of VR.

Chromatic aberration is something is a term I have heard mentioned but I don't know a lot about it so will probably need to do some reading.

Really appreciate all the feedback so far, some really good information coming out here.
 
The Tamron won't be as sharp as an 'L' series lens but it is capable of giving acceptable results.

If you're cropping heavily, then IQ will suffer - if you crop to a quarter the original size, then you are only using 4 of your 16 megapixels - don't expect it to look as sharp as the full frame displayed at the same size. At 300mm, 1/500sec shutter speed should reduce camera-motion blur. As others have said, reducing your aperture to about f9 or f11 (and upping your ISO to maintain the shutter speed) should get more from the lens - as might giving the zoom ring a little twist away from the 300mm end - experiment (but don't get pre-occupied with pixel-peeping) :)

High contrast and bright/dark edges will bring out the worst CA (fringing) and it is an aspect of the lens - just be aware. Some software has fringe-reducing tools.
 
Have to ask - why are you taking a picture of these people at 300mm and cropping, are you trailing them? :)
 
Have to ask - why are you taking a picture of these people at 300mm and cropping, are you trailing them? :)

Haha no, I was actually taking pictures of my Daughter (the girl in the picture) and nephews whilst doing some Archery and the only decent angle I could get and due to the potential danger of getting hit by arrows I had to be quite far.

At this point my daughter had just finished and ran off to stand with her Aunty whilst the nephews did their stuff and just thought I would try and get a pic of them.
 
You used ISO 160 which is not the base ISO of the camera. From what I remember the base ISO is 200? if you use an ISO that is less then the base one the IQ will not be as good .
 
Doesn't look to bad most budget zooms are a little soft at the high end of the zoom. You have also have the aperture wide open at f5.6 this will also soften the image.
 
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