Studio Lighting Outdoors With A Mamiya RZ67?

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elliekidg

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Ellie
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Hello...

So I've been wanting to experiment with this sort of strange balanced portrait where the subject is lit by flash (I have an elinchrom portable unit) yet the natural light in the background is still visible. I've seen a few photographers achieve this and I'm yet to try it for a project I'm currently on.

I'm using a Mamiya Rz67 Pro (not pro ii), I have a sekonic light metre and soft box for the flash

Can anyone tell me what the best shutter speed and aperture would be to achieve this look? On a time limit with my project and any info would be great!

Thanks
 
To put it very simply, you just expose for the ambient light and then use the flash to add light to your subject.

It would be a long explanation to type here, but there are plenty of tutorials on YouTube and articles written about it if you did a basic internet search.

'Settings' will vary on the day and on your subject.
 
This is normally achieved by using high speed sync flash.

I doubt whether the RZ will have this capability.

I'd meter for the ambient light and use a very low power flash / set the flash quite far away from the subject to add just a touch of fill.

I'm sure others who have more knowledge than me of lighting will be along soon.

@Garry Edwards. Anything you can add?
 
Pretty sure the RZ will have a leaf shutter in the lens, therefore will flash sync at all speeds. High speed flash is only an issue if trying to freeze action.

As said, expose for background, adjust flash as needed for subject.
 
ancient_mariner said:
Pretty sure the RZ will have a leaf shutter in the lens, therefore will flash sync at all speeds. High speed flash is only an issue if trying to freeze action.

As said, expose for background, adjust flash as needed for subject.
Click to expand...

Electronic Seiko shutters apparently.

Max sync speed of 1/400th
 
GreenNinja67 said:
Electronic Seiko shutters apparently.

Max sync speed of 1/400th
Click to expand...
Actually, that's the max shutter speed setting on the camera... but that does also make it the max sync speed :).

Typically the best way of dropping the background is by using an ND filter... it leaves you with a bit more flash power compared to using HSS. But HSS is typically the only suitable method when you also need to use a high SS to freeze motion.
Of course, you could also do the shot late/early when the sky/BG might not need dropped much.

elliekidg said:
Can anyone tell me what the best shutter speed and aperture would be to achieve this look?
Click to expand...
Low ISO film, 1/400 SS, aperture as required; f/32 should be adequate in most situations, but if not add a CPL (for 1 stop and colors) and/or ND as needed.
 
Last edited:
I'm not sure that I can help further, but it's a very simple process..
The max sync speed is 1/400th (the minimum shutter speed).
There's a video that may make it clearer, but I haven't watched it myself, can't stand the accentL)
 
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