The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

Well LCE Guildford have 4 star (max is 5) one for 280.
I have always found their 4 star kit to be fine.
 
Argh. It doesn’t look like Fuji will be doing double cash back on lenses for Black Friday: https://www.fujirumors.com/fujifilm...ings-x-pro2-x-e3-and-more-black-friday-deals/

Where is good to look for discounts? I need to order a 23mmf2 this weekend!

I'm in the same boat! I'm off on holiday on Saturday and am desperate to get a 23mm f/2 to take with me. I might get lucky and find one available for collection on a deal somewhere on Friday, but I'm not holding my breath lol
 
IMO mpb are going the way of Wex.
When they first started they were competitive and not so picky, now, based on my recent experiences, they are about equal.
 
IMO mpb are going the way of Wex.
When they first started they were competitive and not so picky, now, based on my recent experiences, they are about equal.
Hope not. I’ve had too many bad experiences with Wex. They used to be OK when they were Warehouse Express, but I think they’ve outgrown customer service.
 
Argh. It doesn’t look like Fuji will be doing double cash back on lenses for Black Friday: https://www.fujirumors.com/fujifilm...ings-x-pro2-x-e3-and-more-black-friday-deals/

Where is good to look for discounts? I need to order a 23mmf2 this weekend!

This is an email I have received from Fujifilm:

'We all know how much of a mad rush Black Friday can be and that’s why we’re giving you a little forewarning that there will be some amazing offers available from 23 November.

Between 23 and 26 November, you will be able to make the most of a long list of fantastic savings on a huge range of FUJIFILM gear, including the X-H1, X-Pro2, X-T20, X-E3, X-T100 and X-A5 cameras, not to mention a selection of XF lenses. Make sure you beat the crowds to take advantage of these unmissable deals!

Products will be available while stocks last, so make sure you register on FUJIFILM-Connect.com to be the first to find out about our Black Friday deals.'




You might still be able to get good prices on lenses
 
Just had a look through your wildlife album, some very impressive work you have there.
I have the 100-400 & 1.4TC and just don't seem to get on with it at all. Last week I was at a RSPB site took 400 images and just saved 8!....so many out of focus and no chance of much cropping because of this. I always get the 'green' light, yet some are completely blurred, even with plenty of speed dialled in. The few I do get are excellent. Tried many variations of settings, with no difference. I do feel my 55-200 is sharper, I even sent it back to Fuji thinking there may be a fault.....but none found.

I would be interested in your settings for general bird shots.

The images with the XF50-140mmF2.8 also look very clean and sharp.

Hi Mulch,

Firstly, thank you for your kind words. Personally I would like a few more sharper images, but wouldn't we all? :D

As for settings, it really does depend on the situation, but in general I have the lens wide open to get the fastest shutter speed possible, as in the UK, there's not a lot of light at f8 (min with the 1.4TC). OIS is always on, I very rarely use a tripod, but do often shoot from hides (a lot of the stuff from WWT sites is from within their hides). Shooting from a hide allows me to rest the lens on the window ledge giving a bit of support.

ISO is normally 1600, but I don't worry about 3200 or even 6400 if I have to, the Fuji files are generally clean enough to require just a little tidy up. Focus is generally on a single spot, sometimes on AF-S, sometimes on AF-C, depending on the situation. Boost is always on, I always use the grip with this set up as it helps balance the whole thing out. Other than that, I'm not really doing anything with the other settings. Just make sure you don't under expose, as pulling stuff out of the shadows at 3200 ISO will add more noise to the image, but you could say that for all images anyway.

The one "issue" I do have is that if the subject is small in the frame, even with a small focus point that is green, I'm never that happy with the output. However, I felt the same about my 7D2 & Sigma 150-600 as well, so I think it's just a fact of life. Fill the frame (or even 50% of it) and you'll get a good image.

It will be good to see how you get on. I'm moving house to South West Wiltshire early next year, so I hope to find some better places to shoot than I can here in West London....
 
Does anyone use their X-T2/3 for wildlife photography? What lenses do you use?

Anyone shoot with the fuji 1.4x or 2x teleconverter? I have a Fuji 55-200mm which I was thinking of adding a converter to rather than buy a new lens. The stop down in aperature will probably rule out sunset or dusk shots though!


Another 100-400 user. Again, with a 1.4x telecon. I've got a 2x as well but only use it when pixels are more important than ultimate resolution (cropping into a 1.4x is sharper than an uncropped 2x image, although when stopped down a bit, the 2x is acceptably sharp.) For static subjects (Herons and roosting birds), you can get away with stopping down a bit, even with the 2x telecon - the lens's OIS is pretty damn good!
 
This is an email I have received from Fujifilm:

'We all know how much of a mad rush Black Friday can be and that’s why we’re giving you a little forewarning that there will be some amazing offers available from 23 November.

Between 23 and 26 November, you will be able to make the most of a long list of fantastic savings on a huge range of FUJIFILM gear, including the X-H1, X-Pro2, X-T20, X-E3, X-T100 and X-A5 cameras, not to mention a selection of XF lenses. Make sure you beat the crowds to take advantage of these unmissable deals!

Products will be available while stocks last, so make sure you register on FUJIFILM-Connect.com to be the first to find out about our Black Friday deals.'




You might still be able to get good prices on lenses
Thanks, that sounds promising! I have registered.
 
Hi folks. Over the summer I missed many decent shot opportunities (sunsets; passing planes etc) while my X-T2 has been occupied doing city time lapses. Very frustrating when I sometime have a 50-140mm sitting in my bag.

So I've been thinking about buying a light and cheap body for a while.

Last week I picked up a X-A5 for around £250 (after cashback), but I haven't opened it yet.

Any thoughts on whether it's a decent option as a second camera given Bayer sensor? Will I notice a big difference in IQ? (Plastic build and 15fps 4K video obv don't bother me)

I wonder if I'm better of with an X-E2 or a (second hand) X-E3? Thoughts anyone?
 
Hi folks. Over the summer I missed many decent shot opportunities (sunsets; passing planes etc) while my X-T2 has been occupied doing city time lapses. Very frustrating when I sometime have a 50-140mm sitting in my bag.

So I've been thinking about buying a light and cheap body for a while.

Last week I picked up a X-A5 for around £250 (after cashback), but I haven't opened it yet.

Any thoughts on whether it's a decent option as a second camera given Bayer sensor? Will I notice a big difference in IQ? (Plastic build and 15fps 4K video obv don't bother me)

I wonder if I'm better of with an X-E2 or a (second hand) X-E3? Thoughts anyone?

Great sensor, I’ve experience of it in X-T100
 
So it arrived today and something tells me it has not had much use...

RNjSugC.jpg


25df71bd-1c4c-417e-92bb-29735a1ff6ad


That sounds like a cracking deal. I've used Park before as @AndyWest works there and they are spot on with their descriptions. Enjoy the ride!
 
Can anyone recommend a third party remote shutter?
For something so simple I have never felt the need to pay £30 for the manufacturers switch and six inches of cable, but looking at the offerings on amazon has left me a little confused. I was sure that the x-t3 has a jack socket for the remote shutter, but there seems to be both jack cable and usb cable variants available and I am not sure which is correct and I don't have my body to hand to check.

Thanks. :)
 
Managed to get out for a few hours on Sunday afternoon/evening and with some decent light too.

This one taken with X-T3, 10-24mm, Little Stopper and Polariser.

This is Bloody Foreland in the far north-west of Ireland - as per the Flickr description, although its name might conjure up thoughts of some long ago massacre it actually gets its name from the way the setting sun brings out the intense red hue of the rocky shoreline.


Cnoc Fola
by

Brian M
, on Flickr
 
Managed to get out for a few hours on Sunday afternoon/evening and with some decent light too.

This one taken with X-T3, 10-24mm, Little Stopper and Polariser.

This is Bloody Foreland in the far north-west of Ireland - as per the Flickr description, although its name might conjure up thoughts of some long ago massacre it actually gets its name from the way the setting sun brings out the intense red hue of the rocky shoreline.


Cnoc Fola
by

Brian M
, on Flickr


That's just lovely
 
Another 100-400 user. Again, with a 1.4x telecon. I've got a 2x as well but only use it when pixels are more important than ultimate resolution (cropping into a 1.4x is sharper than an uncropped 2x image, although when stopped down a bit, the 2x is acceptably sharp.) For static subjects (Herons and roosting birds), you can get away with stopping down a bit, even with the 2x telecon - the lens's OIS is pretty damn good!

I think the cost of the 100-400mm is just too much for me to justify for how much use I would get out of it unless I could get a good second hand deal. I will keep an eye out.

I wonder why the 55-200 isnt compatable with the teleconverters?
 
Can anyone recommend a third party remote shutter?
For something so simple I have never felt the need to pay £30 for the manufacturers switch and six inches of cable, but looking at the offerings on amazon has left me a little confused. I was sure that the x-t3 has a jack socket for the remote shutter, but there seems to be both jack cable and usb cable variants available and I am not sure which is correct and I don't have my body to hand to check.

Thanks. :)


I use my phone and the Fuji App.
 
I use my phone and the Fuji App.

The app is good when it works but I've found it totally unreliable for those shots when I want to put myself in the picture - it drops the signal far too easily (same problem with X-T3 and X-T2). You can still use it from a considerable distance but not if the signal has been broken for any reason (like phone in pocket to leave hands free, or walking behind a physical obstruction) and unless somebody can tell me differently it will not re-establish the connection without hands-on the actual camera. This is quite frankly a PITA when you've just climbed/scrambled/rowed into position. The image below is one that I really wanted to take with the Fuji - apart from anything else the app would have really helped with composition - but I lost signal as soon as the phone went into my pocket (so I could row!) and then had to paddle back - and walk back to the car to retrieve my Nikon and wireless remote to get the shot.

I use a SMDV RFN-4S remote for the Nikon - a fantastic piece of kit that has never let me down but they don't seem to make it for Fuji. Looking on eBay and this looks like it would do a similar job but I'd welcome any recommendations for a reliable wireless remote for the X-T3!


Midnight Paddle
by Brian M, on Flickr
 
I use my phone and the Fuji App.

The app is good when it works but I've found it totally unreliable for those shots when I want to put myself in the picture - it drops the signal far too easily (same problem with X-T3 and X-T2). You can still use it from a considerable distance but not if the signal has been broken for any reason (like phone in pocket to leave hands free, or walking behind a physical obstruction) and unless somebody can tell me differently it will not re-establish the connection without hands-on the actual camera. This is quite frankly a PITA when you've just climbed/scrambled/rowed into position. The image below is one that I really wanted to take with the Fuji - apart from anything else the app would have really helped with composition - but I lost signal as soon as the phone went into my pocket (so I could row!) and then had to paddle back - and walk back to the car to retrieve my Nikon and wireless remote to get the shot.

I use a SMDV RFN-4S remote for the Nikon - a fantastic piece of kit that has never let me down but they don't seem to make it for Fuji. Looking on eBay and this looks like it would do a similar job but I'd welcome any recommendations for a reliable wireless remote for the X-T3!


Midnight Paddle
by Brian M, on Flickr

Thank you both.

I have tried the app but don't get on with it, I have found it to be slow to connect and unreliable. I also don't require the remote to be wireless, just a very basic wired remote is all I need. :)
 
Can anyone recommend a third party remote shutter?
For something so simple I have never felt the need to pay £30 for the manufacturers switch and six inches of cable, but looking at the offerings on amazon has left me a little confused. I was sure that the x-t3 has a jack socket for the remote shutter, but there seems to be both jack cable and usb cable variants available and I am not sure which is correct and I don't have my body to hand to check.

Thanks. :)
I thought Canon compatible (2.5mm jack) would work, or at least that was what I am planning on getting for my X-T2. At the moment I'm using an old threaded one from one of my film cameras. I have also used the app in the past, but haven't found it to be too reliable.
 
Can anyone recommend a third party remote shutter?
For something so simple I have never felt the need to pay £30 for the manufacturers switch and six inches of cable, but looking at the offerings on amazon has left me a little confused. I was sure that the x-t3 has a jack socket for the remote shutter, but there seems to be both jack cable and usb cable variants available and I am not sure which is correct and I don't have my body to hand to check.

Thanks. :)

I got a totally wireless job from eBay for about £18. It plugs in to the flash module and then the micro usb to connect to the camera.

The controller has about a 30m range so I can set up my camera and then just sit in car if I’m up a mountain doing star trails.
 
The app is good when it works but I've found it totally unreliable for those shots when I want to put myself in the picture - it drops the signal far too easily (same problem with X-T3 and X-T2). You can still use it from a considerable distance but not if the signal has been broken for any reason (like phone in pocket to leave hands free, or walking behind a physical obstruction) and unless somebody can tell me differently it will not re-establish the connection without hands-on the actual camera. This is quite frankly a PITA when you've just climbed/scrambled/rowed into position. The image below is one that I really wanted to take with the Fuji - apart from anything else the app would have really helped with composition - but I lost signal as soon as the phone went into my pocket (so I could row!) and then had to paddle back - and walk back to the car to retrieve my Nikon and wireless remote to get the shot.

I use a SMDV RFN-4S remote for the Nikon - a fantastic piece of kit that has never let me down but they don't seem to make it for Fuji. Looking on eBay and this looks like it would do a similar job but I'd welcome any recommendations for a reliable wireless remote for the X-T3!


Midnight Paddle
by Brian M, on Flickr


"Excellent" Fujigraph, and very well presented.(y)

George.
 
Thanks George but if you read my post you will note that this is actually a Nikograph;).


Woops !!! I missed that, never mind I'll not hold that against you,:D "Its still a great shot"(y)

George.
 
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