The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

Cuchulainn said:
Nice placement for the capture!

With regards the motion blur, that does seem like it's excessive considering the shutter speed. Were you on electronic shutter by any chance? Then the individual pixels would be at 1/400 but the whole frame is closer to 1/60.
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Hi, I am new to the Fuji and I am intrigued by your electronic v mechanical shutter and pixels being individually at 1/400 yet the whole frame is closer to 1/60th.. I am keen to learn more and would appreciate an explanation of what you mean.. I scratch my head a bit with regards mechanical v electronic shutter and the pros and cons of each.
 
Well, electronic means it can use faster shutter speeds. Digging a little deeper though, it seems each pixel is regarded as an individual shutter for all intents and purposes. So while each pixel may only be "active" for 400/1 for example, it still takes the sensor roughly 60/1 to scan from top to bottom... Which is why you get the rolling shutter effect.
 
trevjm said:
Hi, I am new to the Fuji and I am intrigued by your electronic v mechanical shutter and pixels being individually at 1/400 yet the whole frame is closer to 1/60th.. I am keen to learn more and would appreciate an explanation of what you mean.. I scratch my head a bit with regards mechanical v electronic shutter and the pros and cons of each.
Click to expand...
Jimmy gave a good explanation of it.

In rolling shutter setups (which is what the electronic shutter is doing), a band of pixels (which could be as few as a single row, or up to a whole half of a sensor) are turned on to detect light for the "exposure" time - in the case we're talking about this is the 1/400s. Once that's done, the next block (row, set of rows..) is turned on and read out, followed by the next and so on until the whole sensor has been exposed to light and the picture formed. So while the individual pixels have had the "exposure time" worth of light exposure, the whole image (or "frame time" as I referred to it) is a lot longer. Due to the physical requirements of getting the data out of each set of pixels, switching to the next, and so on, this is typically comparatively slow - 1/60s or so for the electronics in a Fuji camera. If you did e.g. a 1s exposure on electronic shutter then you'd not notice the extra 1/60s, but if you're trying to control action then it becomes a problem as the pixels on one side of the frame are exposed at a much earlier time than those at the other side. So the electronic shutter is great for controlling the light in really bright situations (which is one reason for a short shutter time) but not for freezing action (which is another reason).
 
jimmyjamjojo said:
Well, electronic means it can use faster shutter speeds. Digging a little deeper though, it seems each pixel is regarded as an individual shutter for all intents and purposes. So while each pixel may only be "active" for 400/1 for example, it still takes the sensor roughly 60/1 to scan from top to bottom... Which is why you get the rolling shutter effect.
Click to expand...
Well explained! Next time I'm reading the manual and I think to myself what the f**k does that mean, I'll know who to come to. :D
 
Cuchulainn said:
Jimmy gave a good explanation of it.

In rolling shutter setups (which is what the electronic shutter is doing), a band of pixels (which could be as few as a single row, or up to a whole half of a sensor) are turned on to detect light for the "exposure" time - in the case we're talking about this is the 1/400s. Once that's done, the next block (row, set of rows..) is turned on and read out, followed by the next and so on until the whole sensor has been exposed to light and the picture formed. So while the individual pixels have had the "exposure time" worth of light exposure, the whole image (or "frame time" as I referred to it) is a lot longer. Due to the physical requirements of getting the data out of each set of pixels, switching to the next, and so on, this is typically comparatively slow - 1/60s or so for the electronics in a Fuji camera. If you did e.g. a 1s exposure on electronic shutter then you'd not notice the extra 1/60s, but if you're trying to control action then it becomes a problem as the pixels on one side of the frame are exposed at a much earlier time than those at the other side. So the electronic shutter is great for controlling the light in really bright situations (which is one reason for a short shutter time) but not for freezing action (which is another reason).
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Now your just showing off. :D
 
jimmyjamjojo said:
Well, electronic means it can use faster shutter speeds. Digging a little deeper though, it seems each pixel is regarded as an individual shutter for all intents and purposes. So while each pixel may only be "active" for 400/1 for example, it still takes the sensor roughly 60/1 to scan from top to bottom... Which is why you get the rolling shutter effect.
Click to expand...

Okay. Understand that. Thanks very much.
 
jimmyjamjojo said:
Well, electronic means it can use faster shutter speeds. Digging a little deeper though, it seems each pixel is regarded as an individual shutter for all intents and purposes. So while each pixel may only be "active" for 400/1 for example, it still takes the sensor roughly 60/1 to scan from top to bottom... Which is why you get the rolling shutter effect.
Click to expand...

Okay. Understand that. Thanks very much.
Cuchulainn said:
Jimmy gave a good explanation of it.

In rolling shutter setups (which is what the electronic shutter is doing), a band of pixels (which could be as few as a single row, or up to a whole half of a sensor) are turned on to detect light for the "exposure" time - in the case we're talking about this is the 1/400s. Once that's done, the next block (row, set of rows..) is turned on and read out, followed by the next and so on until the whole sensor has been exposed to light and the picture formed. So while the individual pixels have had the "exposure time" worth of light exposure, the whole image (or "frame time" as I referred to it) is a lot longer. Due to the physical requirements of getting the data out of each set of pixels, switching to the next, and so on, this is typically comparatively slow - 1/60s or so for the electronics in a Fuji camera. If you did e.g. a 1s exposure on electronic shutter then you'd not notice the extra 1/60s, but if you're trying to control action then it becomes a problem as the pixels on one side of the frame are exposed at a much earlier time than those at the other side. So the electronic shutter is great for controlling the light in really bright situations (which is one reason for a short shutter time) but not for freezing action (which is another reason).
Click to expand...

Thanks for this explanation. All a lot clearer now.
 
jimmyjamjojo said:
Well, electronic means it can use faster shutter speeds. Digging a little deeper though, it seems each pixel is regarded as an individual shutter for all intents and purposes. So while each pixel may only be "active" for 400/1 for example, it still takes the sensor roughly 60/1 to scan from top to bottom... Which is why you get the rolling shutter effect.
Click to expand...

Okay. Understand that. Thanks very much.
Cuchulainn said:
Jimmy gave a good explanation of it.

In rolling shutter setups (which is what the electronic shutter is doing), a band of pixels (which could be as few as a single row, or up to a whole half of a sensor) are turned on to detect light for the "exposure" time - in the case we're talking about this is the 1/400s. Once that's done, the next block (row, set of rows..) is turned on and read out, followed by the next and so on until the whole sensor has been exposed to light and the picture formed. So while the individual pixels have had the "exposure time" worth of light exposure, the whole image (or "frame time" as I referred to it) is a lot longer. Due to the physical requirements of getting the data out of each set of pixels, switching to the next, and so on, this is typically comparatively slow - 1/60s or so for the electronics in a Fuji camera. If you did e.g. a 1s exposure on electronic shutter then you'd not notice the extra 1/60s, but if you're trying to control action then it becomes a problem as the pixels on one side of the frame are exposed at a much earlier time than those at the other side. So the electronic shutter is great for controlling the light in really bright situations (which is one reason for a short shutter time) but not for freezing action (which is another reason).
Click to expand...

Thanks for this explanation. All a lot clearer now.
 
One thing you do need to watch which caught me out while using the electronic shutter on my X-T1 is that it can cause some strange effects if others around you are using flash as i couldn't work out originally why i had missing lines of pixels on some images where other people where taking pictures with fill flash.
 
Anyone using back button focusing on the X-T2? I've read there are two ways to set it up but I'm not sure in what situations it's best suited.
 
Spiritflier said:
I haven't been up to the Mach Loop for six months at least... I headed up there yesterday with the X-T2 and the 100-400mm to see what would pop in to say hello. All in all, it wasn't a bad day with a fair amount of traffic. I found a couple of things that annoyed me a little using the Fuji in that situation but they weren't major.

The camera/lens was too light to hold steady in 30mph+ winds so panning was tricky.
The viewfinder blackout was unhelpful as I was trying to track but that's something I'll get used to.
The plastic hood on the 100-400 is so 'soft' that it marked/scratched really easily.

Here's a half dozen from the day... The rest are on Flickr too. :)

1.


2.


3.


4.


5.


6.
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By any standard these are a "Cracking" set of images Si, nuff said.(y)

George.
 
Question is;

I've a minty/used X-T1 body arriving with me next week (curiosity of Justin of this parish), do I need my existing X-E2 and X-Pro1 bodies...? I don't shoot sports or wedding photography etc.........or just keep it all just in case....?

Thanks;
Peter
 
macvisual said:
Question is;

I've a minty/used X-T1 body arriving with me next week (curiosity of Justin of this parish), do I need my existing X-E2 and X-Pro1 bodies...? I don't shoot sports or wedding photography etc.........or just keep it all just in case....?

Thanks;
Peter
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I can't see you really need them Peter, but I be tempted to keep one as back up but thats just me. I suppose the other question is how much are they worth?
 
macvisual said:
Question is;

I've a minty/used X-T1 body arriving with me next week (curiosity of Justin of this parish), do I need my existing X-E2 and X-Pro1 bodies...? I don't shoot sports or wedding photography etc.........or just keep it all just in case....?

Thanks;
Peter
Click to expand...

I have an X-T1 and an X-E2 and I have just added an X Pro1. I intend to keep certain lenses attached to certain bodies to avoid having to change lenses when I'm out and about. I thought you liked the Pro1 for its 'film-like' rendition Peter
 
I must admit, my initial thoughts would be to sell on the X-E2 once you're happy enough with the X-T1. The X-Pro 1 is an itch I'd like to scratch but new glass needs come first just now.
 
Rosedalelad said:
I have an X-T1 and an X-E2 and I have just added an X Pro1. I intend to keep certain lenses attached to certain bodies to avoid having to change lenses when I'm out and about. I thought you liked the Pro1 for its 'film-like' rendition Peter
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Oh I do enjoy/love the X-Pro1, it's an iconic camera. That's a great idea about keeping different lenses on certain X bodies.........you've just hammered home how important it is to keep all three, clever Andrew, I like your style......l!

Cheers for that reply, appreciated. They all stay.

:)
 
So, the X2 arrived today, at my other halfs office as I was out visiting clients. Very thoughtfully she opened it up and charged the battery !!

So, here's the first pic, shot with the 35mm f1.4 @ f2. Bear in mind all I have done is tick a battery in it, slot in a card, and select ACROS. Straight out of camera, in a dull room and a moving rabbit !!

I think I'm going to love this camera....

Fizz.jpg
 
Spiritflier said:
I haven't been up to the Mach Loop for six months at least... I headed up there yesterday with the X-T2 and the 100-400mm to see what would pop in to say hello. All in all, it wasn't a bad day with a fair amount of traffic. I found a couple of things that annoyed me a little using the Fuji in that situation but they weren't major.

The camera/lens was too light to hold steady in 30mph+ winds so panning was tricky.
The viewfinder blackout was unhelpful as I was trying to track but that's something I'll get used to.
The plastic hood on the 100-400 is so 'soft' that it marked/scratched really easily.

Here's a half dozen from the day... The rest are on Flickr too. :)



3.
Click to expand...

This one is awesome!
 
macvisual said:
Question is;

I've a minty/used X-T1 body arriving with me next week (curiosity of Justin of this parish), do I need my existing X-E2 and X-Pro1 bodies...? I don't shoot sports or wedding photography etc.........or just keep it all just in case....?

Thanks;
Peter
Click to expand...

Keep the pro 1. You love that camera. And you won't get much if you sell it. Let the xe2 go..
 
Last edited:
ASH said:
Anyone using back button focusing on the X-T2? I've read there are two ways to set it up but I'm not sure in what situations it's best suited.
Click to expand...

Yep, I use it all the time, I have ever since I've had a camera that can do it! It's not all that well set up in the Fuji IMO, but for anything other than tracking fast moving subjects that need machine gunning to capture, it's what I'll use, with the camera in Manual focus mode rather than turning off shutter button AF altogether. That way I get to keep shutter button AF for AFC, and the rest of the time it's AF by back button and easy manual over ride if needed.
 
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Spiritflier said:
I haven't been up to the Mach Loop for six months at least... I headed up there yesterday with the X-T2 and the 100-400mm to see what would pop in to say hello. All in all, it wasn't a bad day with a fair amount of traffic. I found a couple of things that annoyed me a little using the Fuji in that situation but they weren't major.

The camera/lens was too light to hold steady in 30mph+ winds so panning was tricky.
The viewfinder blackout was unhelpful as I was trying to track but that's something I'll get used to.
The plastic hood on the 100-400 is so 'soft' that it marked/scratched really easily.

Here's a half dozen from the day... The rest are on Flickr too. :)

1.


2.


3.


4.


5.


6.
Click to expand...

Looking good! I find the evf blackout and lag much improved compared to X-T1, with the 2 I'm finding myself able to catch split second stuff that the T1 was just too slow to capture. I can't pan for love nor money so I'm particularly envious of your technique too!
 
Alan Clogwyn said:
Yep, I use it all the time, I have ever since I've had a camera that can do it! It's not all that well set up in the Fuji IMO, but for anything other than tracking fast moving subjects that need machine gunning to capture, it's what I'll use, with the camera in Manual focus mode rather than turning off shutter button AF altogether. That way I get to keep shutter button AF for AFC, and the rest of the time it's AF by back button and easy manual over ride if needed.
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Hi Alan, I found this online. http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/3978-two-ways-to-back-button-focus-on-x-t2/
Which way did you go about setting yours up?
 
Seamaster75 said:
I feel a little behind the curve with the dinosaur that is the X-T1, but here's a couple paired with the 100-400 - an excellent combo for for wildlife!

1.

Waterbuck hiding in the bushes by Andrew Colgan, on Flickr

2.

Watch My Back by Andrew Colgan, on Flickr

3.

Playground Showdown by Andrew Colgan, on Flickr

4.

Mother & Calf by Andrew Colgan, on Flickr

Thanks for looking!
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These are all top notch, great work :) Clearly you have a great eye for a photo, and have also demonstrated that the x-t1 is still perfectly capable.
 
ASH said:
Hi Alan, I found this online. http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/3978-two-ways-to-back-button-focus-on-x-t2/
Which way did you go about setting yours up?
Click to expand...

No. 2 in that link, as it still gives me a convenient way to get to shutter focus should I want it, or should I need to give my camera to a non photographer for whatever reason. Focus dial to S - shutter focus as normal. Focus Dial to C - continuous shutter focus, FOcus dial to M - Back button focus only for AF or do it manually with the lens ring. Exactly as it was on the X-T1 for me.

If you turn the shutter AF off, you have to use back button when the focus dial is set to S or C as well.
 
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Is there a post/thread discussing the pros & cons of the menu set ups etc for the X-T2 ?
 
Alan Clogwyn said:
Yep, I use it all the time, I have ever since I've had a camera that can do it! It's not all that well set up in the Fuji IMO, but for anything other than tracking fast moving subjects that need machine gunning to capture, it's what I'll use, with the camera in Manual focus mode rather than turning off shutter button AF altogether. That way I get to keep shutter button AF for AFC, and the rest of the time it's AF by back button and easy manual over ride if needed.
Click to expand...

On the X-T2 isn't it the same as the X-T1 where you can't release the shutter button fully, you have to go back to the half pressed point in order to keep shooting? So exposure is fixed from the first shot.
 
Seamaster75 said:
I feel a little behind the curve with the dinosaur that is the X-T1, but here's a couple paired with the 100-400 - an excellent combo for for wildlife!

1.

Waterbuck hiding in the bushes by Andrew Colgan, on Flickr

2.

Watch My Back by Andrew Colgan, on Flickr

3.

Playground Showdown by Andrew Colgan, on Flickr

4.

Mother & Calf by Andrew Colgan, on Flickr

Thanks for looking!
Click to expand...


Really great set of images Andrew, with some fine detail & composition. Particularly liking the mono shots.(y)

"Why on earth should you feel behind the curve so to speak by using an X-T1 ? They are an "Excellent" bit of kit by any standards, and certainly not a dinosaur in any shape or form"

George.
 
Alan Clogwyn said:
No. 2 in that link, as it still gives me a convenient way to get to shutter focus should I want it, or should I need to give my camera to a non photographer for whatever reason. Focus dial to S - shutter focus as normal. Focus Dial to C - continuous shutter focus, FOcus dial to M - Back button focus only for AF or do it manually with the lens ring. Exactly as it was on the X-T1 for me.

If you turn the shutter AF off, you have to use back button when the focus dial is set to S or C as well.
Click to expand...
Thanks Alan, really helpful. (y)
 
G.K.Jnr. said:
Really great set of images Andrew, with some fine detail & composition. Particularly liking the mono shots.(y)

"Why on earth should you feel behind the curve so to speak by using an X-T1 ? They are an "Excellent" bit of kit by any standards, and certainly not a dinosaur in any shape or form"

George.
Click to expand...
Agree with you George! The camera doesn't make the photographer. But it sometimes helps. :D
 
mickledore said:
Good shot. I believe there is some means of finding where the Milky way will be on any given night. What do you use, or is it just pot luck?
Star movement would indicate a longish eposure; at a guess 45secs and wide open on the fisheye. Am I right?
Click to expand...
Check out Stellarium, great little app once you work out how to use the controls. I think there's a free desktop version too, but obviously out in the field it's very useful to have a mobile version.
 
Seamaster75 said:
I feel a little behind the curve with the dinosaur that is the X-T1, but here's a couple paired with the 100-400 - an excellent combo for for wildlife!


Thanks for looking!
Click to expand...

Great wildlife shots!
 
G.K.Jnr. said:
Really great set of images Andrew, with some fine detail & composition. Particularly liking the mono shots.(y)

"Why on earth should you feel behind the curve so to speak by using an X-T1 ? They are an "Excellent" bit of kit by any standards, and certainly not a dinosaur in any shape or form"

George.
Click to expand...
Sarcasm mostly! I love the X-T1 and feel no real pull for the X-T2 at the moment. Maybe next year ;)
 
Was covering a basketball game this morning with my Canon gear and decided to give the XT2 a go for a couple of minutes. Shot these with the 35mm f2 and with battery grip.Very impressed but won't be giving up the Canon gear.bb1.jpgbb2.jpg
 
I was experimenting with the metadata filters in Lightroom and I got some surprising results. It's only one of my lightroom libraries but my biggest (and main).
My most used focal length is 18mm approx twice as many as 23mm, 35mm was half as many as 23mm . My most used camera was my X-T1 very closely followed by my X Pro 2. It kind of makes me think why I favour zoom lenses. I was also amazed how sharp the photos I've taken with my XF 60mm are, I gotta use this lens more.
 
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