Thunderbird010
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Haha yes it's what I came from. Just looking at my options
Nice subject George and beautifully lit, even down to the catchlights in the berries and the highlights on the "recepticle" on the candleholder itself.
I really should dig my nissin and diffuser out once in a while.
Edit: nicely done on the flame too, I always struggle to expose candle flames.
Beautiful George excellent quality and great lighting
Great perspective, and they really pop against that sky!
That is stunning mate. Great perspective and dramatic rendering.
Really like that Dave, great shot.A bit of more conventional street photography. For once I managed to start shooting before all light had faded from the sky, meaning this was shot at about f/4 and 1/125, and everything looks a bit sharper. Still slightly front focused, but not bad for street photography on a moving target with a manual lens... I do like the combination of wet pavements and street lights, never fails to get me out of the house!
Umbrella of uncertainty by David Hallett, on Flickr
Messing about with flash. Topping out everything to get that black backdrop for free
Scout:
Scout by Enticing Imagery, on Flickr
Scrappy:
Scrappy by Enticing Imagery, on Flickr
Couple of really nice shots Keith, a difficult subject that you've caught very well.
"Hope you don't mind me saying, but Just a thought. Had you considered using a reflector of some sort above and slightly behind the subject angled at about 45 degrees forwards? it would help separate the subject from the background and also stop a bit of stray light from the flash hitting the backdrop."
George.
I've been messing about in my studio at home with an X-T2 etc, and all I can say is I'm absolutely blown away with the image quality that can be obtained from these cameras.
X-T2, 105mm Micro Nikkor Lens, 1/Sec @ F11, ISO-200, Multi Flash with 1st Curtain Sync & Longish Exposure.
Christmas Dec (5)-03765 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr
for looking.,
George.
Look like he's used a black backdrop, but you can also 'blacken' the background by underexposing the ambient and letting the flash/strobelight light the subject. You don't have to have a black background though if you underexpose the ambient enough. For example this was shot in a bright room with white walls. It's not a good portrait at all, but it was just part of the free Nikon class I went to demonstrating how to do exactly this, ie remove the background by underexposing and using flash to light the subject. This was done using 3 hand held flashes that weren't diffused hence the harsh light.Thats stunning. Can I ask how you captured the shot and yet kept the subject so well lit and the background ....unlit really ?
You need 'ample' separation from the background, plus you can direct the light with modifiers so that it goes where you want to and not spill too much. Also you can PP the background if you get a bit of light spill, as I did with thisThanks... that was the part I was most fascinated by.... how to avoid the flash lighting the room and not such a specific subject. I shall have a play......
Thats stunning. Can I ask how you captured the shot and yet kept the subject so well lit and the background ....unlit really ?
Look like he's used a black backdrop, but you can also 'blacken' the background by underexposing the ambient and letting the flash/strobelight light the subject. You don't have to have a black background though if you underexpose the ambient enough. For example this was shot in a bright room with white walls. It's not a good portrait at all, but it was just part of the free Nikon class I went to demonstrating how to do exactly this, ie remove the background by underexposing and using flash to light the subject. This was done using 3 hand held flashes that weren't diffused hence the harsh light.
DSC_0771 by TDG-77, on Flickr
This shows the room
DSC_0761 by TDG-77, on Flickr
For the first shot she was stood about 6 feet from the wall so that no flash light spilled onto the wall.
Haha yes it's what I came from. Just looking at my options
I've been messing about in my studio at home with an X-T2 etc, and all I can say is I'm absolutely blown away with the image quality that can be obtained from these cameras.
X-T2, 105mm Micro Nikkor Lens, 1/Sec @ F11, ISO-200, Multi Flash with 1st Curtain Sync & Longish Exposure.
Christmas Dec (5)-03765 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr
for looking.,
George.
I've been messing about in my studio at home with an X-T2 etc, and all I can say is I'm absolutely blown away with the image quality that can be obtained from these cameras.
X-T2, 105mm Micro Nikkor Lens, 1/Sec @ F11, ISO-200, Multi Flash with 1st Curtain Sync & Longish Exposure.
Christmas Dec (5)-03765 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr
for looking.,
George.
George, as others have said, that's a technical masterpiece! [emoji106]
Very well balanced and presented
Cheers! Much appreciated.Really like that Dave, great shot.
I was thinking you got a lot more cooperation from your cats than I would have expected Nice shots!This, is what I did for the cats and the spooky Emily image earlier.
I was thinking you got a lot more cooperation from your cats than I would have expected Nice shots!
Really banal question here, but I have a blind spot about it: I'm really, really bad at remembering to turn off OIS when I put the kit lens on a tripod. And if I do remember, I'll probably forget to turn it back on later!
Anyone got any tips, other than drink more coffee?
It's rubbish.... but this was the shot I took with a Panasonic TZ25...quickly tweaked the exposure to -2 , in shutter mode and pre flash. Made my hands look all jaundiced but still pleased to see the black background. Terrible shot but follows the basic principals as suggested with the "correct" effect. I'm still amazed what can be achieved in a well lit room
Must try with my X-T1 when I get a chance.... I do like the effect....when done properly of course
Most of the time you'll get away with it, but as mentioned above put a note on your tripod or tripod plate.Really banal question here, but I have a blind spot about it: I'm really, really bad at remembering to turn off OIS when I put the kit lens on a tripod. And if I do remember, I'll probably forget to turn it back on later!
Anyone got any tips, other than drink more coffee?
If a black background is your aim, you can take the image into Lightroom and take down the blacks a bit more. Using the XT-1 and an off camera flash [allowing you to direct it from an angle, not straight on, here you are still getting some backdrop detail in] will allow you do it without any need for that though, just takes a bit of trial and error
I will indeed thanks. It was just a quick "snap" with my little travel camera. I was pleased...not surprised..... that it worked so well after the advice I was given and the examples. Its a good effect and I will have play with my various bits and pieces... thanks again
I have often forgotten to switch off VR/VC/OS/OIS on a tripod, I don't think it makes a bit of difference. But, maybe put a sticky note on your tripod plate that reads "switch off OIS"?
Most of the time you'll get away with it, but as mentioned above put a note on your tripod or tripod plate.
It can, but as I say most of the time you'll get away with it.Yes, thank you both, that's a good idea. I don't know how much difference it makes, but I'm told the OIS gets confused when the camera is held completely still, which can affect sharpness.
Maybe put a OIS sticker on the cameras shoe mount cover.Really banal question here, but I have a blind spot about it: I'm really, really bad at remembering to turn off OIS when I put the kit lens on a tripod. And if I do remember, I'll probably forget to turn it back on later!
Anyone got any tips, other than drink more coffee?
I believe I have once, but can't be 100% sure it was down to that or something else. I've forgotten to turn IS off on many occasion without any ill effectsI have never seen OIS affect a still, maybe a long exposure it might.
Agreed, always best to do so just in case, but if you do forget it's unlikely to be the end of the worldI would always switch it off on a tripod, when i remember to. But with Nikon VR I never had any issue. Fuji's OIS could be more finicky because it's actually more active and adjusts for more stops.