The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

dave.hallett said:
All are great, but I particularly like the middle two. I really must get to grips with the 12mm and learn to use it. To that end, I've ordered a UV filter for the front, as I was a bit reticent about exposing that big front element to sea spray down on the beach. Maybe that will help, we'll see :) I'm also going to acquire a 16mm equivalent (manual 24mm plus focal reducer) when I can, as experiments this weekend comparing the Pentax K 28mm 3.5 to my 18-55 kit (the prime narrowly wins) have convinced me that my concerns about focal reducers being unsuitable for landscape work are unfounded, at least by my current standards. I won't post the shots here, as as they are very dull, but I will be duplicating the test "in the field" when I can, and happy to report further if people are interested.
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Thanks Dave I've had one previously and sold it as it didn't get used that often. Today I just took the 12mm and the 18-55 and the 12mm got used more. Ive got some nd filters and a step down ring so will have a go with some long exposures next time.

Will be interesting to see your results I need to dig out the Helios Pentax and Pentecon lenses as well!!
 
My era also Chris, bikes like these excited me.......and still do;

X7 - KH500 - RD400 - GT380 - CX500 - CBX1000 - XS750 - GT750 - CB650 - R100RT - GSXR1000 - CBR954 - TDM900 - MZ250

Love bikes I do!
 
dave.hallett said:
All are great, but I particularly like the middle two. I really must get to grips with the 12mm and learn to use it. To that end, I've ordered a UV filter for the front, as I was a bit reticent about exposing that big front element to sea spray down on the beach. Maybe that will help, we'll see :) I'm also going to acquire a 16mm equivalent (manual 24mm plus focal reducer) when I can, as experiments this weekend comparing the Pentax K 28mm 3.5 to my 18-55 kit (the prime narrowly wins) have convinced me that my concerns about focal reducers being unsuitable for landscape work are unfounded, at least by my current standards. I won't post the shots here, as as they are very dull, but I will be duplicating the test "in the field" when I can, and happy to report further if people are interested.
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Interesting, as I have recently ordered a Lens Turbo 2 to put with my Hoya 24mm (OM fit), for the same reasons. Just waiting for it to arrive from the foreign - I already have the necessary adapter.
 
snap-happy said:
These don't look sharp to me - 100-400mm is capable of a lot better. What shutter speed were you using?
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Need to check (I'm at work now and don't have access to the info). I'm not 100% sure about uploading JPG's to the iPad and then using Snapseed. It's a quick but not necessarily good workflow.... It was also my first day out with the new lens, I need to get used to how it handles..
 
Hi...just want some advice with regards to the focusing n the XT2 which I recently bought. I went to a dirt bike event at the weekend and all excited when I got home to see the great shots Id taken only to be disappointed with the results. Not as in focus as I thought they were when I had initially looked on the back of the screen. My camera settings were 1/500 F5.6 ISO 400 .(Lens 50-140 and IS on ) Drive mode was continual high speed and I also had boost on the power grip. Auto focus was zone with custom setting 2 which on looking thru the viewfinder seemed to be working well at the time?. Any guidance would be most welcome.
 
Stephen L said:
Interesting, as I have recently ordered a Lens Turbo 2 to put with my Hoya 24mm (OM fit), for the same reasons. Just waiting for it to arrive from the foreign - I already have the necessary adapter.
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Mine arrived quicker than i expected but it's probably a lottery. I'm looking to acquire a Zuiko 24mm 2.8 MC but it may take a little patience to acquire one without paying over the odds. One thing you need to watch out for with wider angles is collision between the rear element of the lens and the front of the LTII at longer focus. I made my 28mm work by shimming the LT lens mount, which also made the focal markings on the levers more accurate. YMMV, and you may as well try the Hoya as you have it. But i would suggest putting it on initially at the closest focus point, and then lengthen it carefully and see whether you get to infinity, and where.
 
Well, tested the Samyang 12mm at lunch in Birmingham Cathedral and can't believe the quality!

Makes me wonder if I've got a duff 18-55mm.

Well impressed.

All shots SOOC via wifi to my iPhone so not full size.

Could have made it easier on myself by remembering to remove the CPL!!!! Doh!!


[url=https://flic.kr/p/RCBxDY]Samyang 12mm Test 1 by Terence Rees, on Flickr[/URL]


[url=https://flic.kr/p/RCBxCL]Samyang 12mm Test 2 by Terence Rees, on Flickr[/URL]


[url=https://flic.kr/p/RCBxC5]Samyang 12mm Test 3 by Terence Rees, on Flickr[/URL]
 
dave.hallett said:
Mine arrived quicker than i expected but it's probably a lottery. I'm looking to acquire a Zuiko 24mm 2.8 MC but it may take a little patience to acquire one without paying over the odds. One thing you need to watch out for with wider angles is collision between the rear element of the lens and the front of the LTII at longer focus. I made my 28mm work by shimming the LT lens mount, which also made the focal markings on the levers more accurate. YMMV, and you may as well try the Hoya as you have it. But i would suggest putting it on initially at the closest focus point, and then lengthen it carefully and see whether you get to infinity, and where.
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Thanks for this useful advice, Dave.
 
macvisual said:
Ok, my last motorcycle image. This Suzuki AP50 moped was released in the early 1970's, this version I've never seen as clean, in new/immaculate condition, stunning..!



Suzuki AP50 by Macvisual Photography, on Flickr

XF18-55
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That's spooky!

Your 2 earlier shots (the Norton and the MV) were both bikes I looked at (albeit in very slightly different trim) a few months ago (before seeing, testing and buying a '14 plate Bonnie with under 1,000 miles on it!) and I used to have an AP50 (but even back then [late '70s] not as tidy as the one you shot!)
Nice as it is to see super clean and tidy bikes, it always seems a shame to have them as trailer queens when they should be used rather than just admired.
 
macvisual said:
Thanks George(y), appreciated. I love the XF56 glass, I shot this at 1:1 ratio for the square format.

I've a XF100-400 arriving tomorrow, so expect a pic or two appearing etc... :)


Regards;
Peter
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You'll not be disappointed with the 100-400mm Sir, it's an absolute excellent optic.(y)

George.
 
addicknchips said:
Congrats on the purchase Peter
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Thanks Jonathan, I himmed and hayed about buying the XF100-400 for quite a while to be honest, I've read many reviews about it and spent ages looking at images shot with it....... I've be known to take my time on a purchase alright.

Hoping to get out with it from lunchtime onwards when it arrives, I can't believe the 5 stop image stabilisation ---- wow

Pete
 
macvisual said:
Thanks Jonathan, I himmed and hayed about buying the XF100-400 for quite a while to be honest, I've read many reviews about it and spent ages looking at images shot with it....... I've be known to take my time on a purchase alright.

Hoping to get out with it from lunchtime onwards when it arrives, I can't believe the 5 stop image stabilisation ---- wow

Pete
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Yeah I think the stabilisation has to be witnessed to be believed. Even with the 1.4 TC attached its usable without a support
 
G.K.Jnr. said:
Just a simple shot taken at Canterbury of The main tower/gate at the entrance to the Cathedral.

X-T2, 10-24mm Lens, 1/280th @ F8, ISO-200, Handheld.
Architecture (1)-03623 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr

:ty: for looking., (y):fuji:

George.
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That lovely Goerge right up my street,

macvisual said:
Breia;



Breia by Macvisual Photography, on Flickr

XT1 - XF56 - 2.8
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macvisual said:
Thanks George, appreciated. I love the XF56 glass, I shot this at 1:1 ratio for the square format.

I've a XF100-400 arriving tomorrow, so expect a pic or two appearing etc... :)


Regards;
Peter
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She/he is a right poser Peter and superbly taken.
Just got to echo what already been said about the 100-400 don't use mine nearly enough.
 
Miss Cupcake said:
Hi...just want some advice with regards to the focusing n the XT2 which I recently bought. I went to a dirt bike event at the weekend and all excited when I got home to see the great shots Id taken only to be disappointed with the results. Not as in focus as I thought they were when I had initially looked on the back of the screen. My camera settings were 1/500 F5.6 ISO 400 .(Lens 50-140 and IS on ) Drive mode was continual high speed and I also had boost on the power grip. Auto focus was zone with custom setting 2 which on looking thru the viewfinder seemed to be working well at the time?. Any guidance would be most welcome.
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Haven't got a camera to hand and can't remember which setting custom 2 is, but my experience is that the zone tracking quality depends on the acquisition of the initial shot, if this isn't in focus, the zone tracking is likely to be out as well.

But I had no issues in getting initial shot in focus, using the XF90 which is similar in AF speed to the 50-140. We were shooting motorsport, car speeds 100mph ish

Were you panning ir trying to get 'still' shots

@G.K.Jnr. might be able to help here more as his company shoots F1 with Fuji gear
 
Hi Guys - hope you all well! Some lovely images since I last checked. Particularly liked a wonderful beach sunset with a boat, and a beautiful shot of a gorgeous daughter with hair style to die for!

OK to the point - I've been experimenting with 3D photography on my XT-1. Nothing to share as of yet but a question I'm hoping someone might be able to help me with.

I'm using a 60mm Macro lens in my experiments. ISO, Shutter Speed, Focus and Aperture all set to manual. I'm in the single shot mode (s) on the top left dial. I don't think the camera should be making any decisions for me, and yet, it must be.

Looking through the lens in LCD and focusing so the image is pin point sharp. I press the shutter button half down (which would normally auto focus if I wasn't set to manual) and I get a small delay and the image just isn't focused as tight when I take the shot.

It's like some sort of auto image processing is taking place as soon as I press that button down halfway.

What am I missing - why when I think I'm in full manual mode is the focus changing ever so slightly. Any ideas?
 
souldeep said:
Hi Guys - hope you all well! Some lovely images since I last checked. Particularly liked a wonderful beach sunset with a boat, and a beautiful shot of a gorgeous daughter with hair style to die for!

OK to the point - I've been experimenting with 3D photography on my XT-1. Nothing to share as of yet but a question I'm hoping someone might be able to help me with.

I'm using a 60mm Macro lens in my experiments. ISO, Shutter Speed, Focus and Aperture all set to manual. I'm in the single shot mode (s) on the top left dial. I don't think the camera should be making any decisions for me, and yet, it must be.

Looking through the lens in LCD and focusing so the image is pin point sharp. I press the shutter button half down (which would normally auto focus if I wasn't set to manual) and I get a small delay and the image just isn't focused as tight when I take the shot.

It's like some sort of auto image processing is taking place as soon as I press that button down halfway.

What am I missing - why when I think I'm in full manual mode is the focus changing ever so slightly. Any ideas?
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Are you shooting with a small aperture? Looks like the camera allows you to focus with the lens wide open, but closes the aperture when you half press...so could be focus shift?
 
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BacktotheFuji said:
Are you shooting with a small aperture? Looks like the camera allows you to focus with the lens wide open, but closes the aperture when you half press...so could be focus shift?
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Hi - I actually shoot wide mostly, but did try closing it down as well and countering by rising the ISO and exposure a few stops. That didn't seems to make a difference. That being said I will experiment on this point. I might have missed something. It sounds feasible.

Why though, when everything is set to manual - should the camera make a decision to open the aperture wide again?
 
souldeep said:
Hi - I actually shoot wide mostly, but did try closing it down as well and countering by rising the ISO and exposure a few stops. That didn't seems to make a difference. That being said I will experiment on this point. I might have missed something. It sounds feasible.

Why though, when everything is set to manual - should the camera make a decision to open the aperture wide again?
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Good question. If using AF, I guess it lets in more light with which to focus. So...either the camera doesn't differenciate between AF and MF in that respect, or perhaps the resultant image would be too noisy in the EVF in low light conditions?
 
souldeep said:
Hi - I actually shoot wide mostly, but did try closing it down as well and countering by rising the ISO and exposure a few stops. That didn't seems to make a difference. That being said I will experiment on this point. I might have missed something. It sounds feasible.

Why though, when everything is set to manual - should the camera make a decision to open the aperture wide again?
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The only other thing I can think of is that even though my kit lens is constantly set to MF, it still autofocuses when I press the AF-L button. Is it possible you have somehow assigned this function to the shutter button??
 
Well its not a "full" return to Fuji but I've decided I'm finally going to do what I've wanted for a while and run my full frame Pentax K1 alongside a minimal Fuji line-up too and I've listed a lot of my Pentax glass on Ebay to raise funds, really intending only to keep the 24-70 and maybe my 15-30 if it doesn't sell.
Will allow me to focus that setup on the one thing I struggled with on the Fuji and thats landscapes... but will let me have a Fuji (undecided on X-Pro 2 or XT2) with a couple of primes for those days I don't need to lug the full frame kit and don't "need" 36mp....
 
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