- Messages
- 9,418
- Name
- Jonathan
- Edit My Images
- No
Digital Rev have X-T20 bodies for under £674 at the moment...tempting!!
https://store.digitalrev.com/product/fujifilm-x-t20/MTEwNTM5MA_A_A
interesting price as their x-t10's are £519
Digital Rev have X-T20 bodies for under £674 at the moment...tempting!!
https://store.digitalrev.com/product/fujifilm-x-t20/MTEwNTM5MA_A_A
Would be a no brainer to go for the X-T20 at those prices, surely.interesting price as their x-t10's are £519
Would be a no brainer to go for the X-T20 at those prices, surely.
Really bizarre, though that is a surprisingly low price for a T20. I need to stop looking myself too!also strangely the x-t1 is marked as "discontinued" but you can still buy an x-pro 1.
i should stop looking
All are great, but I particularly like the middle two. I really must get to grips with the 12mm and learn to use it. To that end, I've ordered a UV filter for the front, as I was a bit reticent about exposing that big front element to sea spray down on the beach. Maybe that will help, we'll see I'm also going to acquire a 16mm equivalent (manual 24mm plus focal reducer) when I can, as experiments this weekend comparing the Pentax K 28mm 3.5 to my 18-55 kit (the prime narrowly wins) have convinced me that my concerns about focal reducers being unsuitable for landscape work are unfounded, at least by my current standards. I won't post the shots here, as as they are very dull, but I will be duplicating the test "in the field" when I can, and happy to report further if people are interested.
That's from my era, a true moped. I remember many of those and fizzes too.Ok, my last motorcycle image. This Suzuki AP50 moped was released in the early 1970's, this version I've never seen as clean, in new/immaculate condition, stunning..!
Suzuki AP50 by Macvisual Photography, on Flickr
XF18-55
Interesting, as I have recently ordered a Lens Turbo 2 to put with my Hoya 24mm (OM fit), for the same reasons. Just waiting for it to arrive from the foreign - I already have the necessary adapter.All are great, but I particularly like the middle two. I really must get to grips with the 12mm and learn to use it. To that end, I've ordered a UV filter for the front, as I was a bit reticent about exposing that big front element to sea spray down on the beach. Maybe that will help, we'll see I'm also going to acquire a 16mm equivalent (manual 24mm plus focal reducer) when I can, as experiments this weekend comparing the Pentax K 28mm 3.5 to my 18-55 kit (the prime narrowly wins) have convinced me that my concerns about focal reducers being unsuitable for landscape work are unfounded, at least by my current standards. I won't post the shots here, as as they are very dull, but I will be duplicating the test "in the field" when I can, and happy to report further if people are interested.
These don't look sharp to me - 100-400mm is capable of a lot better. What shutter speed were you using?
Was with three of them on Saturday, plus a Meteor, plus a Canberra, plus a Nimrod (although that was out of bounds!)Buccaneer? Haven't seen one of those in a long time...
Mine arrived quicker than i expected but it's probably a lottery. I'm looking to acquire a Zuiko 24mm 2.8 MC but it may take a little patience to acquire one without paying over the odds. One thing you need to watch out for with wider angles is collision between the rear element of the lens and the front of the LTII at longer focus. I made my 28mm work by shimming the LT lens mount, which also made the focal markings on the levers more accurate. YMMV, and you may as well try the Hoya as you have it. But i would suggest putting it on initially at the closest focus point, and then lengthen it carefully and see whether you get to infinity, and where.Interesting, as I have recently ordered a Lens Turbo 2 to put with my Hoya 24mm (OM fit), for the same reasons. Just waiting for it to arrive from the foreign - I already have the necessary adapter.
Thanks for this useful advice, Dave.Mine arrived quicker than i expected but it's probably a lottery. I'm looking to acquire a Zuiko 24mm 2.8 MC but it may take a little patience to acquire one without paying over the odds. One thing you need to watch out for with wider angles is collision between the rear element of the lens and the front of the LTII at longer focus. I made my 28mm work by shimming the LT lens mount, which also made the focal markings on the levers more accurate. YMMV, and you may as well try the Hoya as you have it. But i would suggest putting it on initially at the closest focus point, and then lengthen it carefully and see whether you get to infinity, and where.
Ok, my last motorcycle image. This Suzuki AP50 moped was released in the early 1970's, this version I've never seen as clean, in new/immaculate condition, stunning..!
Suzuki AP50 by Macvisual Photography, on Flickr
XF18-55
Thanks George, appreciated. I love the XF56 glass, I shot this at 1:1 ratio for the square format.
I've a XF100-400 arriving tomorrow, so expect a pic or two appearing etc...
Regards;
Peter
Thanks George, appreciated. I love the XF56 glass, I shot this at 1:1 ratio for the square format.
I've a XF100-400 arriving tomorrow, so expect a pic or two appearing etc...
Regards;
Peter
Thanks Jonathan, I himmed and hayed about buying the XF100-400 for quite a while to be honest, I've read many reviews about it and spent ages looking at images shot with it....... I've be known to take my time on a purchase alright.Congrats on the purchase Peter
Thanks Jonathan, I himmed and hayed about buying the XF100-400 for quite a while to be honest, I've read many reviews about it and spent ages looking at images shot with it....... I've be known to take my time on a purchase alright.
Hoping to get out with it from lunchtime onwards when it arrives, I can't believe the 5 stop image stabilisation ---- wow
Pete
Just a simple shot taken at Canterbury of The main tower/gate at the entrance to the Cathedral.
X-T2, 10-24mm Lens, 1/280th @ F8, ISO-200, Handheld.
Architecture (1)-03623 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr
for looking.,
George.
Thanks George, appreciated. I love the XF56 glass, I shot this at 1:1 ratio for the square format.
I've a XF100-400 arriving tomorrow, so expect a pic or two appearing etc...
Regards;
Peter
Hi...just want some advice with regards to the focusing n the XT2 which I recently bought. I went to a dirt bike event at the weekend and all excited when I got home to see the great shots Id taken only to be disappointed with the results. Not as in focus as I thought they were when I had initially looked on the back of the screen. My camera settings were 1/500 F5.6 ISO 400 .(Lens 50-140 and IS on ) Drive mode was continual high speed and I also had boost on the power grip. Auto focus was zone with custom setting 2 which on looking thru the viewfinder seemed to be working well at the time?. Any guidance would be most welcome.
That lovely Goerge right up my street,
Hi Guys - hope you all well! Some lovely images since I last checked. Particularly liked a wonderful beach sunset with a boat, and a beautiful shot of a gorgeous daughter with hair style to die for!
OK to the point - I've been experimenting with 3D photography on my XT-1. Nothing to share as of yet but a question I'm hoping someone might be able to help me with.
I'm using a 60mm Macro lens in my experiments. ISO, Shutter Speed, Focus and Aperture all set to manual. I'm in the single shot mode (s) on the top left dial. I don't think the camera should be making any decisions for me, and yet, it must be.
Looking through the lens in LCD and focusing so the image is pin point sharp. I press the shutter button half down (which would normally auto focus if I wasn't set to manual) and I get a small delay and the image just isn't focused as tight when I take the shot.
It's like some sort of auto image processing is taking place as soon as I press that button down halfway.
What am I missing - why when I think I'm in full manual mode is the focus changing ever so slightly. Any ideas?
Hi - I actually shoot wide mostly, but did try closing it down as well and countering by rising the ISO and exposure a few stops. That didn't seems to make a difference. That being said I will experiment on this point. I might have missed something. It sounds feasible.Are you shooting with a small aperture? Looks like the camera allows you to focus with the lens wide open, but closes the aperture when you half press...so could be focus shift?
Hi - I actually shoot wide mostly, but did try closing it down as well and countering by rising the ISO and exposure a few stops. That didn't seems to make a difference. That being said I will experiment on this point. I might have missed something. It sounds feasible.
Why though, when everything is set to manual - should the camera make a decision to open the aperture wide again?
The only other thing I can think of is that even though my kit lens is constantly set to MF, it still autofocuses when I press the AF-L button. Is it possible you have somehow assigned this function to the shutter button??Hi - I actually shoot wide mostly, but did try closing it down as well and countering by rising the ISO and exposure a few stops. That didn't seems to make a difference. That being said I will experiment on this point. I might have missed something. It sounds feasible.
Why though, when everything is set to manual - should the camera make a decision to open the aperture wide again?