The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

More out of curiosity than anything, what about it was specific to long exposure? Or have I misunderstood, and it was really just about mono processing?

If you look at Noel's shots he has a pretty uniform look with a clean sky and/or a smooth clean body of water. He showed me how to get that clean look from a messy LE raw file but it would be possible from a non-LE I would guess. His shots are all monochrome but the approach works fine for colour.
 
If you look at Noel's shots he has a pretty uniform look with a clean sky and/or a smooth clean body of water. He showed me how to get that clean look from a messy LE raw file but it would be possible from a non-LE I would guess. His shots are all monochrome but the approach works fine for colour.
After I posted that I realised I should just go look at his page, rather than ask silly questions! But thanks. And yes, I see what you mean about his style, quite minimalistic for the most part.
 
If somebody likes that minimalist look and can take a basic LE shot, Noel's course will mean they can easily and reliably replicate his look. The challenge then is to move on to develop your own style but I really benefitted from the course and would highly recommend it.
 
So today I finally traded the remainder of my Canon kit. I fancied the 50-140, but they didn't have it in stock, and then I saw "it" in the Fuji cabinet.... The new 80mm f2.8.... Wasn't expecting to see one of these, so I used the bulk of the PX against this. I also picked up a carbon monopod, as I seem to have lost mine, and as I'm off to Thailand in January, I also got a Think Tank Airport Advantage.

This brings my Fuji kit up to where I want it.

2 x X-T2
1 x Grip
16mm f1.4
35mm f1.4
60mm f2.4
80mm f2.8
10-24mm
100-400mm

I just need to start thinking about flash etc now (and maybe get out and shoot some more!) I've been considering about taking some time out from work, so maybe I'll actually achieve my goal of catching a UK sunrise!!

I’m well pleased and impressed with the Godox 2.4ghz speedlight system I have a couple of TT350 units 1x Fuji &1x Oly/Pan But they can be used togeather due to the cross compatibility of the Godox latest system
 
With this shot, I was supposed to be on a cityscapes workshop and we were supposed to be taking a food break. Also, 12mm is an unusual length for street photography, there was too much dynamic range for the sensor, and lens flare was definitely an issue. But this is the kind of shot I can never resist having a go at, even if it's a bit of a gamble...


Walk on the wild side
by David Hallett, on Flickr

And a gamble that paid off! I love this. shows the hustle and bustle of the wharf off nicely. Excellent image
 
I’m well pleased and impressed with the Godox 2.4ghz speedlight system I have a couple of TT350 units 1x Fuji &1x Oly/Pan But they can be used togeather due to the cross compatibility of the Godox latest system

I thought Godox was hard to find in the UK... Is it sold under another name here?
 
With this shot, I was supposed to be on a cityscapes workshop and we were supposed to be taking a food break. Also, 12mm is an unusual length for street photography, there was too much dynamic range for the sensor, and lens flare was definitely an issue. But this is the kind of shot I can never resist having a go at, even if it's a bit of a gamble...


Walk on the wild side
by David Hallett, on Flickr


Really liking this Fujigraph Sir, good comp', with mono PP work that pushes all the right buttons for me with a good full range of punchy tones.(y)

George.
 
Just for a laugh.....

As some of you know, my other interest is my car, and I'm a member of a couple of Mini owners clubs. My regular club has a mascot, Morris, and he gets taken to all sorts of places. He is currently in my possession, as we are taking him to Thailand with us in January. I got asked "is he safe?"

The picture below is of Morris, looking at an image of his owner, Neil, while on track at Goodwood last month...

Morris by Steve Jelly, on Flickr

All a bit of fun for the club :)
 
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Just a simple street style Fujigraph taken at Brighton Sussex UK of a line of rentable bicycles on the seafront promenade.

X-T2, 18-55mm Lens, 1/250th @ F11, ISO-320, Handheld.
Bicycles (1)-03180 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr

:ty: for looking., (y):fuji:

George.
Well spotted and captured I really like the blues in this shot :) as I don't think it would have the same impact on a dull grey day (y)
 
With this shot, I was supposed to be on a cityscapes workshop and we were supposed to be taking a food break. Also, 12mm is an unusual length for street photography, there was too much dynamic range for the sensor, and lens flare was definitely an issue. But this is the kind of shot I can never resist having a go at, even if it's a bit of a gamble...


Walk on the wild side
by David Hallett, on Flickr

This is a great shot
 

Cheers Phil, I'll check that out...
 
Well spotted and captured I really like the blues in this shot :) as I don't think it would have the same impact on a dull grey day (y)

Thank you kindly Sir, I sure do appreciate your reply.(y)

George.
 
I would say this is an unusually filmic result compared with my usual shots. Not something I particularly aspire to, but the light was pretty subtle and I quite like the effect.


Lotus
by David Hallett, on Flickr

Battersea Power Station last night - XT1+16-50+ten stop+some Colour Efex Pro experimentation. Two more in a dedicated thread in Architecture and Urban
Battersea IV by Ian, on Flickr

Still wharfing it...


Yellow bridge
by David Hallett, on Flickr

Went for a walk yesterday with the T20 and 27mm in my pocket. One of those times when I wish I had a tripod with me.

View attachment 116556

With this shot, I was supposed to be on a cityscapes workshop and we were supposed to be taking a food break. Also, 12mm is an unusual length for street photography, there was too much dynamic range for the sensor, and lens flare was definitely an issue. But this is the kind of shot I can never resist having a go at, even if it's a bit of a gamble...


Walk on the wild side
by David Hallett, on Flickr

Quick walk in the woods after dropping the little one off at nursery, rather pleased with this...

Silver Birch by Ash Smith, on Flickr

All lovely shots chap you should be proud of them.
 
Really liking this Fujigraph Sir, good comp', with mono PP work that pushes all the right buttons for me with a good full range of punchy tones.(y)

George.

This is a great shot

All lovely shots chap you should be proud of them.

Cheers all three, very kind. George, the mono was partly just to tame the lens flare a bit, but it also pulls the picture together a bit. I'd like to make the processing a bit less HDR, but the dynamic range was very high...ho hum.
 
Quick walk in the woods after dropping the little one off at nursery, rather pleased with this...

Silver Birch by Ash Smith, on Flickr
I like.

I've always had a similar shot in the back of my mind, i'm just yet to come across the right tree in the right light... Needs to stand out and be very different from the others, and be isolated with light... The simple message being it's good to be different. :)
 
With this shot, I was supposed to be on a cityscapes workshop and we were supposed to be taking a food break. Also, 12mm is an unusual length for street photography, there was too much dynamic range for the sensor, and lens flare was definitely an issue. But this is the kind of shot I can never resist having a go at, even if it's a bit of a gamble...


Walk on the wild side
by David Hallett, on Flickr

Really nice! I often think we're too obsessed with dynamic range, it's almost as though we're doing the whole "gear p*nis waggling" only with our images instead of words. I'm guilty of it too. But sometimes you need to blow out highlights, or lose the shadows in order to add some character to the image.
After all, we are artists, and light is our medium. It is so refreshing to look at vintage photos where dynamic range was much narrower, you often find that while the subject is exposed correctly the other light/dark areas in the image are just that - light or dark. The lack of absolute detail in every single part of the image helps to reduce distraction.

Edit - for example in this shot I don't need to see wrinkles on the back of their coats, or the faces of those walking towards us. The point of the image is that gorgeous sunburst, which is just the right size to not be overpowering, coupled with the lead ins of the paths and the long streaking shadows... It would be a stunning shot with no people in it, but at the same time, they add a little life and movement.
 
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I like.

I've always had a similar shot in the back of my mind, i'm just yet to come across the right tree in the right light... Needs to stand out and be very different from the others, and be isolated with light... The simple message being it's good to be different. :)

Cheers

I'd been watching a couple of youtuber's talking about looking for detail within landscape photography so I had that in mind I guess when I saw that particular tree. Unusually for me I pretty much planned the exact shot and what I wanted the finished article to look like before I hit the shutter - square crop, object in the centre, desaturated colour etc etc. More often than not I find something that catches my eye and 'work' the scene from different angles and different compositions and see what I like best in post before processing. So to to do a planned, 1 take, image was a bit of a departure!
 
Really nice! I often think we're too obsessed with dynamic range, it's almost as though we're doing the whole "gear p*nis waggling" only with our images instead of words. I'm guilty of it too. But sometimes you need to blow out highlights, or lose the shadows in order to add some character to the image.
After all, we are artists, and light is our medium. It is so refreshing to look at vintage photos where dynamic range was much narrower, you often find that while the subject is exposed correctly the other light/dark areas in the image are just that - light or dark. The lack of absolute detail in every single part of the image helps to reduce distraction.

Edit - for example in this shot I don't need to see wrinkles on the back of their coats, or the faces of those walking towards us. The point of the image is that gorgeous sunburst, which is just the right size to not be overpowering, coupled with the lead ins of the paths and the long streaking shadows... It would be a stunning shot with no people in it, but at the same time, they add a little life and movement.


:agree: with these comments completely Sir.(y)

George.
 
Really nice! I often think we're too obsessed with dynamic range, it's almost as though we're doing the whole "gear p*nis waggling" only with our images instead of words. I'm guilty of it too. But sometimes you need to blow out highlights, or lose the shadows in order to add some character to the image.
After all, we are artists, and light is our medium. It is so refreshing to look at vintage photos where dynamic range was much narrower, you often find that while the subject is exposed correctly the other light/dark areas in the image are just that - light or dark. The lack of absolute detail in every single part of the image helps to reduce distraction.

Edit - for example in this shot I don't need to see wrinkles on the back of their coats, or the faces of those walking towards us. The point of the image is that gorgeous sunburst, which is just the right size to not be overpowering, coupled with the lead ins of the paths and the long streaking shadows... It would be a stunning shot with no people in it, but at the same time, they add a little life and movement.
Thank you kindly, and like George, I much agree. I used the autobracketing on this shot to hedge my bets a bit, even though I was trying to ETTR. But in the end, I used the middle one, and then just blended in a little of the -1 exposure just to reduce the burned-out highlight on the facing building. I didn't mind it burning out a bit, I just didn't want a huge white blob! So 95% of this shot is the X-T10 doing its job. And as I intimated earlier, I think if anything I've put too much detail in. I'll probably re-edit and take some of it out of the paving, which isn't what I want the viewer to be looking at...
 
With "blown" highlights, I look at the scene with Mk 1 eyeballs for a moment and if there's any significant after image when I close my eyes, I figure that any blowing in that area is how the scene was in real life so I don't worry about it too much. I might try a little underexposure to see if it reduces the blowing a bit without detracting too much from the final image but I CBA messing about with blending multipole images in PP.

While I quite like Dave's shot as it is, I can't help feeling that getting a bit lower would have reduced the diverging verticals that pointing the camera down a little has introduced and might also have introduced a lead out line from the railings' vanishing point as they pass the child.
 
While I quite like Dave's shot as it is, I can't help feeling that getting a bit lower would have reduced the diverging verticals that pointing the camera down a little has introduced and might also have introduced a lead out line from the railings' vanishing point as they pass the child.
Interesting thought. I originally composed it as more of a cityscape with the railings for foreground interest, and then kept taking pictures as people walked through it. If I had known where it would end up, I might have started differently. Having said that, I'm not bothered about the verticals in a shot like this. They may even help!
 
Finally taken the plunge and ordered an X-T2. I'd been wavering on whether to get a battery grip. I don't generally like them but was starting to think that it might be useful for astro stuff, particularly if it's cold. Anyway, 'free' grip offer on at present so I'm getting one. We'll see how much I end up using it.

Am I right in saying that it's still only Kirk and RRS that make L-Brackets for X-T2 with grip fitted?
 
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Finally taken the plunge and ordered an X-T2. I'd been wavering on whether to get a battery grip. I don't generally like them but was starting to think that it might be useful for astro stuff, particularly if it's cold. Anyway, 'free' grip offer on at present so I'm getting one. We'll see how much I end up using it.

Am I right in saying that it's still only Kirk and RRS that make L-Brackets for X-T2 with grip fitted?
On exactly the same boat, I picked up my X-T2 and boost grip yesterday. L bracket required so will watch with interest.

Sure Sunwayfoto do a shortened L bracket also.
 
Ahh so you received double cash back likely then?

Indeed :) Although I bought the camera just before that even, and only got the double on the 23mm. Still, having settled in with the camera now, I've certainly no qualms over a bit of cash either way.
 
On exactly the same boat, I picked up my X-T2 and boost grip yesterday. L bracket required so will watch with interest.

Sure Sunwayfoto do a shortened L bracket also.

Where did you buy from Ian if you don't mind me asking? I've bought with John Lewis and it looks like I need to claim free grip from Fuji rather than get it with the camera. Of mild concern is that the claim form on the Fuji site's wording suggests that the claim is for a free leather case despite big text at the top referring to a free battery grip. I am certain it is a sloppy copy and paste error.

Sunwayfoto do indeed do a shortened L-bracket for no grip. Can't personally see the benefit of that design over the £20 no name stuff. I've ordered an L bracket from amazon prime for £22 ish that doesn't have the extra vertical grip bit for your fingers. Never liked those metal hand grip things, they feel cold and uncomfortable so was pleased to find one without it.

Will let you know if I find anything for L bracket with grip fitted. I'm sure plenty of the generic ones would work since they're featureless, they can be prone to twisting a little if not properly tightened. My other thought is I might just not bother. I *think* I'll probably only use grip for astro and sporty/action stuff so could just kick the tripod head over for the former and will be hand holding for the latter.
 
Where did you buy from Ian if you don't mind me asking? I've bought with John Lewis and it looks like I need to claim free grip from Fuji rather than get it with the camera. Of mild concern is that the claim form on the Fuji site's wording suggests that the claim is for a free leather case despite big text at the top referring to a free battery grip. I am certain it is a sloppy copy and paste error.

Sunwayfoto do indeed do a shortened L-bracket for no grip. Can't personally see the benefit of that design over the £20 no name stuff. I've ordered an L bracket from amazon prime for £22 ish that doesn't have the extra vertical grip bit for your fingers. Never liked those metal hand grip things, they feel cold and uncomfortable so was pleased to find one without it.

That is bizarre. I bought from Wex/Calumet and was handed the grip there and then. I understood that the leather case applies to the T20 or XP2 rather than the X-T2? Worth checking with Fuji I'd say.

Re: the grip, I misread your comment mate. I'm not that interested in an L bracket with added grip as such and a no name version will do me just fine I'm sure [emoji106]
 
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