This is one of My favourite Hare images , so hope you like it too .
The Hare Stare IMG_3508 by Mark Powter, on Flickr
The Hare Stare IMG_3508 by Mark Powter, on Flickr
The Hare Stare
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Ha love it that's REALLY cool Mark. Mate tell me what happened next please. Mark, I'm unsure re WB again??????? ha us and WB bro 
it looks a bit cold...... lets see what the others say mate.
. That aside it's such a lovely image a fav of mine too buddy
take care
stu
it looks a bit cold...... lets see what the others say mate.. That aside it's such a lovely image a fav of mine too buddy
take care
stu
I really struggle on WB , I hate my images to look yellow and to warm... this was taken on an overcast day , the sun was trying to brake through cloud from the rear right , so sort of backlit from the right . I am not that unhappy with it to be honest , it`s pretty close to how I remember the light on it .
He got pretty bored of looking at that weird thing sitting in the ditch looking at him in the end Stu . As I recall had a yawn and a groom , and went about his business . Posted the Yawn pic elsewhere here if you not seen it . Guessing you wont be sure on the WB on that either though .
I am not that unhappy with it to be honest , it`s pretty close to how I remember the light on it .He got pretty bored of looking at that weird thing sitting in the ditch looking at him in the end Stu . As I recall had a yawn and a groom , and went about his business . Posted the Yawn pic elsewhere here if you not seen it . Guessing you wont be sure on the WB on that either though .
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Angry looking Hare.
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Yes have seen it mate ,but ran off doing in stead of commenting
....lol I should be shot and yup re WB too cold there too. . Mark I think this stems from canon files oft being on the warm side and then we go too far in the opposite direction trying to put it right Buddy it's your lovely frame so your choice is the most important , but being honest even with my insecurities it does feel too cold ,it hits me straight away . Up to you bro the important thing is it's such a great hare frame
....lol I should be shot and yup re WB too cold there too. . Mark I think this stems from canon files oft being on the warm side and then we go too far in the opposite direction trying to put it right Buddy it's your lovely frame so your choice is the most important , but being honest even with my insecurities it does feel too cold ,it hits me straight away . Up to you bro the important thing is it's such a great hare frameYes have seen it mate ,but ran off doing in stead of commenting
I think your right they do come out of Canon Cameras looking to warm , and I really respect your opinions and knowledge Stu , and you was not alone . If it doesn't look right to you , it probably isn`t . I have turned my monitor calibration off here , replayed with it and warmed it up some . How does it look to you all now ? The grass still looks green and not yellow , which is what I dislike the most if it gets to warm . I used the eye dropper tool and took a WB measure from the Hares belly , do you think that was the best place ? Improvement ? Spot on ? To warm ?
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Buddy you need other folks to help with this. I 'll give ya ll I got ,it's not that I just know how much more expertise the others lads'n' lasses have here than I do with processing an image We are all made differnt mate all have different skills and struggles Ha you can trust my honesty not my abilities with post............it is what it is
. Ping me the RAW bud ( if that's cool ) lets have a chat about this................. but moreso and I can't stress this enough I'm not the best guy for the job. Wish I was buddy ,but nope sadly I'm not. Some of the guys here are amazing at post though.
I prefer the second edit mate but feel there is more to be had. I'm not comfortable with the greens I stress( but you know already) i'm not calibrated. Mate it's a lovely frame it's worth digging a bit to try and find the best of it
take care kiddo
you can trust my honesty not my abilities with post............it is what it is. Ping me the RAW bud ( if that's cool ) lets have a chat about this................. but moreso and I can't stress this enough I'm not the best guy for the job.
Wish I was buddy ,but nope sadly I'm not. Some of the guys here are amazing at post though.I prefer the second edit mate but feel there is more to be had. I'm not comfortable with the greens I stress( but you know already) i'm not calibrated. Mate it's a lovely frame it's worth digging a bit to try and find the best of it
take care kiddo
LongLensPhotography
Th..th..that's all folks!
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Nice composition but it is still looking a bit teal or weird-ish. What are your actual white balance values? It should be quite close to daylight, or perhaps a tiny bit warmer. Too warm and you may still get away with it but too cool and instantly looks wrong.
No idea on values , all the gear and no idea me
, I convert the raw in Canons DPP , I used to use the presets , but they generally looked a bit to warm ( to Me ) . So have been using the eye dropper for the last few months , as mentioned I took a reading from the Hares tummy , the white / Grey part , as an online Canon tutorial suggests taking the reading from a white or grey part of the image . I wonder if there is an all round sure fire answer as every image from a different day will be different , are we looking to get the best visually pleasing photo or the most realistic to the time we took it ? Another can of worms but lets not go there here . Have emailed you the raw Stu , keep an eye for it , look forward to what you advise .
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Mark, on my monitor, your 2nd edit looks a lot better but still a tad cold and the green looks really vivid.
I think WB can be hard to get right on your own monitor, never mind when everyone is looking at a photo on many different devices.
What I will say, your first definitely looks too cold.
I opened your first shot in ACR and selected auto WB, this was the outcome. I couldn't tell you the value as its been stripped from the jpeg.
I've also reduced saturation and brightness just to the green channel.
Now again, this looks better on my monitor but what does it look like on yours?
I don't mind having a look at the raw file if you wanted to send it through https://wetransfer.com/
There's no registration and free, if it asks you, just click 'no thanks'
My edit
I think WB can be hard to get right on your own monitor, never mind when everyone is looking at a photo on many different devices.
What I will say, your first definitely looks too cold.
I opened your first shot in ACR and selected auto WB, this was the outcome. I couldn't tell you the value as its been stripped from the jpeg.
I've also reduced saturation and brightness just to the green channel.
Now again, this looks better on my monitor but what does it look like on yours?
I don't mind having a look at the raw file if you wanted to send it through https://wetransfer.com/
There's no registration and free, if it asks you, just click 'no thanks'
My edit
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Will do mate,bare with me still trying to tackle HMRC, bless 'em, today will be no fun. . I'm off to read your other thread in a mo then head down !! . .
I can't answer LLP#s question either Mark but a little tip in an area. I think relates to it................................... if you hover with the mouse, over a spot in your image , in dpp, and look under the histogramme you will see values for the RGB colour channels, Those values change according to what is under the mouse I use these to check bright hilights...the numbers max at 255
bare with me still trying to tackle HMRC, bless 'em, today will be no fun. . I'm off to read your other thread in a mo then head down !! . . I can't answer LLP#s question either Mark but a little tip in an area. I think relates to it................................... if you hover with the mouse, over a spot in your image , in dpp, and look under the histogramme you will see values for the RGB colour channels, Those values change according to what is under the mouse I use these to check bright hilights...the numbers max at 255
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Mark Phil's edit looks the best of the 3 to me. Phil thanks bro
Dang ! Just look at the differing out comes and opinions . It will be very hard to judge what is actually right or wrong , but it`s very interesting to see how different we see things . It`s a little odd that my images of Deer and Hares in Green crop or grass fields always throw a curve ball when it comes to white balance for me . And the Green crop certainly differs greatly in every edit here . Think I could end up with less hair looking at these .
Will ping the raw to you later Phil .
Will ping the raw to you later Phil .
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Morning Mark, I've had a look at the raw file, this is a before and after of my edit showing the sliders
I lifted exposure a little, black and white adjustments , clarity and shadow lift, I knocked the WB down to 4700 from the 5000 and added some sharpening
Opened in E14, cropped, resized, selectively reduced noise to the bg,( it wasn't bad its just part of my routine ) did some selective sharpening to highlight parts of the hare, not all of it.
Reduced overall saturation a little then selectively reduced the green channel
Sounds a lot but only a few minutes work, simply because I'm used to doing it.
Its been mentioned a couple of times above but as for WB, it will look slightly different depending on devices, but not a million miles off
I've viewed it on 3......
Monitor, bordering on the warm side which I do tend to favour
Laptop, looks just a tad cooler
Phone, looks a lot warmer
See what you think
I lifted exposure a little, black and white adjustments , clarity and shadow lift, I knocked the WB down to 4700 from the 5000 and added some sharpening
Opened in E14, cropped, resized, selectively reduced noise to the bg,( it wasn't bad its just part of my routine ) did some selective sharpening to highlight parts of the hare, not all of it.
Reduced overall saturation a little then selectively reduced the green channel
Sounds a lot but only a few minutes work, simply because I'm used to doing it.
Its been mentioned a couple of times above but as for WB, it will look slightly different depending on devices, but not a million miles off
I've viewed it on 3......
Monitor, bordering on the warm side which I do tend to favour
Laptop, looks just a tad cooler
Phone, looks a lot warmer
See what you think
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- just butting in here folks, but I think Phil has cracked it! - Mark's great original image now helped by this spot on edit
Russ
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Agreed I really think Phil has this one sorted Mark. as the moaning minny- just butting in here folks, but I think Phil has cracked it! - Mark's great original image now helped by this spot on edit
Russ
that started all this, sorry mate, his edit appeals to me looks waay better. As before Mark it's such a lovely frame definitely worth the effort 
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Hi Mark,
I've taken a look at the file, and agree that Phil has given a pretty good account of what needs doing with it. Anything from that point onwards is down to your own interpretation of the scene - too warm, too cold, etc. It's now all about how you remember the scene.
As you use DPP I opened the RAW there. First impression was the file was underexposed - a killer with the 7d but a few years to late to rectify that now! Still, its a long way from being a disaster, just try and bare in mind that with Canon crop sensor files, exposing 'to the right' really is the way forward. Crop wise, I wold have preferred a little more space at the bottom of the frame, but it was good the focal point was bang on.
So, I increased the exposure, and looked for a good place to try the white balance. Difficult here because there were not many neutral areas but I found the white patch just below the left eye (as we look) gave a good result.
The green background was still overpowering the subject, so I went into the HSL tab (bottom row, 4th from the left, looks like 3 overlapping circles). You have to be careful when messing with greens, sometimes the yellow slider has more effect, but on this occasion I kept it simple and reduced the S slider (saturation) to -2 and the L slider (luminance) to -5. That gave me what I thought were pretty good greens for the background.
I don't normally do too much in the way of sharpening in DPP4, I prefer to do it later just on the main subject, but the file was a little soft.
What I definitely don't want is loads of noise reduction at this point so those sliders were taken down to '0'. The idea there is noise reduction will affect the detail in the hare and I wanted to lose no potential detail there.
As I said, I don't normally add this much sharpening here, but on this occasion I added 4 points of sharpening.
This is the before and after for what I did.
I then took the shot into photoshop and kept it simple here.
I did do a LAB check on the colours which is a fancy way of checking the WB as this is what all the comment have boiled down to. I won't bore you with the details here, but suffice to say, using the WB point I mentioned in DPP was just about perfect, so I'm happy that's got the shot nice and neutral.
Anything else colour wise is down to your personal taste.
I did a couple of curves adjustments which I won't go into here but importantly I thought the right side of the face (as we look) needed to be a little lighter, so please take the shot into PS or Elements, whichever you use, and try this, just to try and learn a little about curves.
Make a curves adjustment layer by clicking on the half black / half white circle at the bottom of the layers panel and choosing 'curves'.
The curves palette will open and you get a histogram, and like others it relates to dark tones on the left, light tones on the right. The diagonal line is what we're playing with here. Click on the middle of the line and drag it up a little until you see the shot going a bit lighter. What you've done here is raise the brightness of the mid-tones which is where you want to target with the face. All the frame has been affected at this point but don't worry.
You're only trying to change a small part of the shot, to I want to invert the layer which, for now, will nullify what you've just done. If you look at the curves layer you will see a white box. This is the fundamental thing to remember with layers and masks, and it is
WHITE REVEALS, BLACK CONCEALS.
Anything white in that box will be visible in your shot, anything black won't be, grey areas are in between.
So, to nullify it like I just mentioned, use the keyboard command 'cmd+I' for a mac or 'ctrl+I' for a PC. This should now turn the white box on the curves layer black and the changes you made will disappear.
You now want to brush in the changes to the specific areas, here the darker side of the face and body. Do this keyboard shortcut - B, then D, then X. This gives you a brush to work with, and by toggling 'X' you can look at the little overlapping boxes towards the bottom of the row of icons on the left of the screen, and you want the white box to be on top, as once again -
WHITE REVEALS, BLACK CONCEALS.
Make sure the brush has a soft edge and paint over the areas you want to alter.
You might want to do more or less to the area at this point, so have a play with the curves box. There will be a little square on the line and just drag this up and down to see how it all works.
Thats just a basic introduction to curves and masking, but if you get that down, it'll all fall into place quickly in the future.
Back to the shot, I just resized it for TP requirements, which is important to do before and noise reduction or sharpening, then did some noise reduction to the background, and sharpened the hare selectively. Let me know if you want specific details on those
Here's the final result, no too dissimilar to Phils, and just a matter of personal taste by now
Hope that helps, anything specific you're not sure about just let me know
Mike
I've taken a look at the file, and agree that Phil has given a pretty good account of what needs doing with it. Anything from that point onwards is down to your own interpretation of the scene - too warm, too cold, etc. It's now all about how you remember the scene.
As you use DPP I opened the RAW there. First impression was the file was underexposed - a killer with the 7d but a few years to late to rectify that now! Still, its a long way from being a disaster, just try and bare in mind that with Canon crop sensor files, exposing 'to the right' really is the way forward. Crop wise, I wold have preferred a little more space at the bottom of the frame, but it was good the focal point was bang on.
So, I increased the exposure, and looked for a good place to try the white balance. Difficult here because there were not many neutral areas but I found the white patch just below the left eye (as we look) gave a good result.
The green background was still overpowering the subject, so I went into the HSL tab (bottom row, 4th from the left, looks like 3 overlapping circles). You have to be careful when messing with greens, sometimes the yellow slider has more effect, but on this occasion I kept it simple and reduced the S slider (saturation) to -2 and the L slider (luminance) to -5. That gave me what I thought were pretty good greens for the background.
I don't normally do too much in the way of sharpening in DPP4, I prefer to do it later just on the main subject, but the file was a little soft.
What I definitely don't want is loads of noise reduction at this point so those sliders were taken down to '0'. The idea there is noise reduction will affect the detail in the hare and I wanted to lose no potential detail there.
As I said, I don't normally add this much sharpening here, but on this occasion I added 4 points of sharpening.
This is the before and after for what I did.
I then took the shot into photoshop and kept it simple here.
I did do a LAB check on the colours which is a fancy way of checking the WB as this is what all the comment have boiled down to. I won't bore you with the details here, but suffice to say, using the WB point I mentioned in DPP was just about perfect, so I'm happy that's got the shot nice and neutral.
Anything else colour wise is down to your personal taste.
I did a couple of curves adjustments which I won't go into here but importantly I thought the right side of the face (as we look) needed to be a little lighter, so please take the shot into PS or Elements, whichever you use, and try this, just to try and learn a little about curves.
Make a curves adjustment layer by clicking on the half black / half white circle at the bottom of the layers panel and choosing 'curves'.
The curves palette will open and you get a histogram, and like others it relates to dark tones on the left, light tones on the right. The diagonal line is what we're playing with here. Click on the middle of the line and drag it up a little until you see the shot going a bit lighter. What you've done here is raise the brightness of the mid-tones which is where you want to target with the face. All the frame has been affected at this point but don't worry.
You're only trying to change a small part of the shot, to I want to invert the layer which, for now, will nullify what you've just done. If you look at the curves layer you will see a white box. This is the fundamental thing to remember with layers and masks, and it is
WHITE REVEALS, BLACK CONCEALS.
Anything white in that box will be visible in your shot, anything black won't be, grey areas are in between.
So, to nullify it like I just mentioned, use the keyboard command 'cmd+I' for a mac or 'ctrl+I' for a PC. This should now turn the white box on the curves layer black and the changes you made will disappear.
You now want to brush in the changes to the specific areas, here the darker side of the face and body. Do this keyboard shortcut - B, then D, then X. This gives you a brush to work with, and by toggling 'X' you can look at the little overlapping boxes towards the bottom of the row of icons on the left of the screen, and you want the white box to be on top, as once again -
WHITE REVEALS, BLACK CONCEALS.
Make sure the brush has a soft edge and paint over the areas you want to alter.
You might want to do more or less to the area at this point, so have a play with the curves box. There will be a little square on the line and just drag this up and down to see how it all works.
Thats just a basic introduction to curves and masking, but if you get that down, it'll all fall into place quickly in the future.
Back to the shot, I just resized it for TP requirements, which is important to do before and noise reduction or sharpening, then did some noise reduction to the background, and sharpened the hare selectively. Let me know if you want specific details on those
Here's the final result, no too dissimilar to Phils, and just a matter of personal taste by now
Hope that helps, anything specific you're not sure about just let me know
Mike
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I am in awe of what you done here Mike , think your edit has the edge on Phil`s but I am in awe of his too , and think you went to greater lengths in fairness. I did click around that eye with the dropper tool , but felt the one off the belly worked better . So much needs to be done after that . I will have to study and play around ...a lot with curves ect .
In my defence to the none perfect exposure ect ect , I took this photo 7 years ago , was much more a novice then than I am now . It has already been used in an exhibition in the past , but I am glad to have the opportunity to better myself thanks to all you people , still so much to learn . I think I learn far better first hand visually than I do watching or reading something , it`s just the way I am . But I will certainly read and read again your lesson here , and a good chance I will be bending your ear Mike .
Cheers Mike and Phil much appreciated .
In my defence to the none perfect exposure ect ect , I took this photo 7 years ago , was much more a novice then than I am now . It has already been used in an exhibition in the past , but I am glad to have the opportunity to better myself thanks to all you people , still so much to learn . I think I learn far better first hand visually than I do watching or reading something , it`s just the way I am . But I will certainly read and read again your lesson here , and a good chance I will be bending your ear Mike .
Cheers Mike and Phil much appreciated .
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Great edit and explanation Mike
As the masters apprentice (Mike taught me a lot about pp'ing when I first started) I did a side by side comparison of the two edits and pleased they both look so similar, certainly colour and WB ...................but I still think you have far too much time on your hands Mr Pooley 
As the masters apprentice
(Mike taught me a lot about pp'ing when I first started) I did a side by side comparison of the two edits and pleased they both look so similar, certainly colour and WB ...................but I still think you have far too much time on your hands Mr Pooley
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Thanks Mark and Phil,
I really enjoy threads like this when we actually look at getting the most out of a shot rather than just praising each other. Great to see people giving their own interpretations and discussing the shot.
Phil, I think the only real difference to mine and yours is the sharpening output - like I keep saying the exact colours are just personal preference. Your colours look pretty good to me, which is the main part. I got a new sharpening technique a few months ago which I'll send you at some point rather than clutter this up
Mike
I really enjoy threads like this when we actually look at getting the most out of a shot rather than just praising each other. Great to see people giving their own interpretations and discussing the shot.
Phil, I think the only real difference to mine and yours is the sharpening output - like I keep saying the exact colours are just personal preference. Your colours look pretty good to me, which is the main part. I got a new sharpening technique a few months ago which I'll send you at some point rather than clutter this up
Mike
Late back to the party here, but just wanted to say thanks to everyone for sharing a bit of knowledge! It's very cool to see people's processes specific to wildlife. Lots of things to learn and try. Thanks everyone, specially Mike and Phil, for sharing your knowledge.
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Mark very late to the party sorry mate it is what it is, seems best to put my version up here and then you can compare against t' others
I come out here........... lol I think I'm happy with it
IMG_3508 by Stuart Philpott, on Flickr
.just a few steps in DPP 4. I think it's pointless me going further as Mike and Phil have your back anyway and are more able to help you .
Mark i've boosted exp by 0.50 i've taken the WB reading off edge of the left ear( which we can just see running down the back of the head/ neck area) as we look.
In the colour panel I've just notched the green sat. and yellow sat. back by 1 and put a bit of sharps on but not much as that wants doing selectively. It's that first step and my take
Mark I concur with my old mucker Mike here. I love threads like this where we try our best to get what ever is possible from a frame not telling each other nice shot:. Folks telling us how nice an image is ,is lovely,but it don't get us further down the road. I love threads where we learn Mark I think between the other lads here the edits from PhilD 4WD and pooley plus the honest comments from roger et al you have actually got one of the best most informative threads I've seen in the wild and free section here for yonks. Mate I hope this has helped,and you have something to dig at.
I sort of feel a need to say sorry Mark,I know you don't really want your images edited and the whys; I respect that and still bunged this up. simply you can look at everything together flick up down........... compare, choose.
The other lads though simply haven't seen it simply waded in with a good heart "I'll help ya,wadda ya think of this, your choice "
Ha I love that !! it is funny though
I wish we did this stuff more guys ^^^^^^
stu
I come out here........... lol I think I'm happy with it
IMG_3508 by Stuart Philpott, on Flickr.just a few steps in DPP 4. I think it's pointless me going further as Mike and Phil have your back anyway and are more able to help you .
Mark i've boosted exp by 0.50 i've taken the WB reading off edge of the left ear( which we can just see running down the back of the head/ neck area) as we look.
In the colour panel I've just notched the green sat. and yellow sat. back by 1 and put a bit of sharps on but not much as that wants doing selectively. It's that first step and my take
Mark I concur with my old mucker Mike here. I love threads like this where we try our best to get what ever is possible from a frame not telling each other nice shot:. Folks telling us how nice an image is ,is lovely,but it don't get us further down the road. I love threads where we learn Mark I think between the other lads here the edits from PhilD 4WD and pooley plus the honest comments from roger et al you have actually got one of the best most informative threads I've seen in the wild and free section here for yonks. Mate I hope this has helped,and you have something to dig at.
I sort of feel a need to say sorry Mark,I know you don't really want your images edited and the whys
; I respect that and still bunged this up. simply you can look at everything together flick up down........... compare, choose. The other lads though simply haven't seen it simply waded in with a good heart "I'll help ya,wadda ya think of this, your choice "
Ha I love that !! it is funny though
I wish we did this stuff more guys ^^^^^^
stu
Stu , thanks for your late entry , I`ll confess I feel it a bit of a shame it was this particular image that was used as an example , but no need for apology . Your W>B is defo an improvement over mine as usual , and it`s been done differently again to the others , proves there are no hard fast rules .
I don`t think a good many people would take criticism like this very well here . I`ll be honest , I generally put images up here to share a lot of the time not really for critique as often I am more than happy with them at the time , and so not really looking to improve them . But man has this been an eye opener , and I hope not just for me after all that good will with time and sharing tricks that people have put in . I think arguments over enhancements will go on till the Cows come home . I know many that would argue some of the edits have changed the image far to much . I would argue surely it`s best to get the best out of our images , I look in awe at what`s been achieved here , and so wish my skills were at the levels of Pooley , Phil and Stu . This has had me banging my head against the wall already , already struggling with the tips and advice here But sure they are easy once you got a grip of them , it`s a frustrating business . One things for sure , the image does not end when you first load it on your P.C . Though I question how much of good photography is in the camera , and how much is the enhancing skills , you definitely need skills in both to get the best out of an image I feel .
Thanks again for all the editing tips , I am determined to learn from them .
, and it`s been done differently again to the others , proves there are no hard fast rules .I don`t think a good many people would take criticism like this very well here . I`ll be honest , I generally put images up here to share a lot of the time not really for critique as often I am more than happy with them at the time , and so not really looking to improve them . But man has this been an eye opener , and I hope not just for me after all that good will with time and sharing tricks that people have put in . I think arguments over enhancements will go on till the Cows come home . I know many that would argue some of the edits have changed the image far to much . I would argue surely it`s best to get the best out of our images , I look in awe at what`s been achieved here , and so wish my skills were at the levels of Pooley , Phil and Stu . This has had me banging my head against the wall already , already struggling with the tips and advice here
But sure they are easy once you got a grip of them , it`s a frustrating business . One things for sure , the image does not end when you first load it on your P.C . Though I question how much of good photography is in the camera , and how much is the enhancing skills , you definitely need skills in both to get the best out of an image I feel . Thanks again for all the editing tips , I am determined to learn from them .
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- Yes
Mark , sorry again so slow i've just been so busy. You are probably right about the crit I dunno mate,it's just someone trying to help another, learning never stops. All I can see is kindness and a want to be better. I wanted you to have this erm" moment" mate it is an eye opener watching someone else's skills applied to something one started, and what is possible. I know how hard these processing can be mate, just take little steps Mark repeating things until they finally stick. Mark ya know that tutorial Mike did for me I haven't assimilated it yet,still I go back to it almost every time I process,It's the only way my brain will hold it.............. over and over again repeats. For some the penny drops quicker, I think some of are just are made that way Mark : go real slow ask the lads if you get really stuck.
Mate i'm so glad this has worked out for you WB is such an important step it frustrates me aswell at times . Mark we'll never all agree on editing ,we don't all see the world through the same eyes, and sure what's best is open to debate. All that said we don't really need to agree just find the best path for each of us
Simply pro sports togs I guess do it pretty much in camera,I mean they are pinging off images to the papers from trackside there can't be anytime for editing I think if the tog is good enough then sure he or she will nail it in camera. But for the rest of us the RAW and processing allows flexibility and exploration. Sure we are not sports togs,we might wait days for a few seconds of half a chance. So although I want to do everything possible to nail it in camera it seems worth while spending time on trying to get the utter best out of what we come home with. Ha as hard as that might be
Mark I don't know if this has been mentioned or it is a "good way" of using the eyedropper,but I always blow pic up huge, so I can see exactly where I'm selecting the WB from
all the luck with it mate
" mate it is an eye opener watching someone else's skills applied to something one started, and what is possible. I know how hard these processing can be mate, just take little steps Mark repeating things until they finally stick. Mark ya know that tutorial Mike did for me I haven't assimilated it yet,still I go back to it almost every time I process,It's the only way my brain will hold it.............. over and over again repeats. For some the penny drops quicker, I think some of are just are made that way Mark : go real slow ask the lads if you get really stuck.Mate i'm so glad this has worked out for you WB is such an important step it frustrates me aswell at times . Mark we'll never all agree on editing ,we don't all see the world through the same eyes, and sure what's best is open to debate. All that said we don't really need to agree just find the best path for each of us
Simply pro sports togs I guess do it pretty much in camera,I mean they are pinging off images to the papers from trackside there can't be anytime for editing I think if the tog is good enough then sure he or she will nail it in camera. But for the rest of us the RAW and processing allows flexibility and exploration. Sure we are not sports togs,we might wait days for a few seconds of half a chance. So although I want to do everything possible to nail it in camera it seems worth while spending time on trying to get the utter best out of what we come home with. Ha as hard as that might be
Mark I don't know if this has been mentioned or it is a "good way" of using the eyedropper,but I always blow pic up huge, so I can see exactly where I'm selecting the WB from
all the luck with it mate