The Lightblock Project

Update:

I've now made the lightbox frame fully self-contained for power (no external USB cable) with a temporary switch on the back of the unit until I get the parts together to build the wireless conductive switch. I'm also working on the desk stand which can fold away if you wish to wall mount the frame which means one unit can serve both purposes.






Don't worry though, the final stand won't be made out of card/duct tape I promise...

These are the neodymium magnets sunk into the frame and on the lightbox unit so they can be separated without tools to swap out the mount or entire front frame.



Nearly there!

Cheers
Steve
 
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Time for a product/thread revival :0)

I've spent quite a bit of time researching batteries while I've been off over Christmas and am down to two options which i'd appreciate some feedback on:

1) Lightframe powered by 2/3 AAA batteries in simple box accessible via a cover on the back. When the batteries run out they could be replaced or recharged outside of the frame.

Pros - Cheaper to manufacture, Existing batteries can be used, No circuitry required internally so simpler

Cons - The rear of the unit would need a removable panel so less clean looking and may feel more 'cheap'

2) Lightframe powered by sealed internal LiPo which is charged using a standard USB port or wall charger with cable via an external micro USB port.

Pros - No external covers required, Smooth rear panel, Potential to offer charge function for other devices via external female USB port but not essential.

Cons - More expensive to make, requires internal circuit for charger/power.

So, any thoughts appreciated. Basically, would you pay more for a Lightframe (around £10-£15 extra) for the simplicity of an internal battery and the option to charge whilst still using it?

Cheers
Steve
 
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Only yesterday I was showing my friend some developed Velvia. As someone who had little or no interest in film, he was very impressed. I'd love one of these and I think I would also pay the little extra for it to be chargeable.

Depends how long the AA batteries/charge would last though I guess?
 
Thanks for the feedback Gaz, and the interest. I'm going to run both options and see how long the leds will run for. The LEDs don't use a lot of power so I'm expecting at least several days of constant use.

Cheers
Steve
 
After looking into battery integration more today, I've come up with a much neater solution to use standard AAA batteries which are cheaper to implement, available everywhere and will last longer than a 3.7v lipo.

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At the moment, the only tube of the correct diameter I have is a flexible rubber hose so this isn't what the finished holder will look like but gives the idea. Basically, the batteries will be held in an acrylic/aluminium tube which hinges out to act as the desk stand. When wall mounting the lighframe, the tube folds back against the frame so it doesn't impact the wall mount.

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I originally looked at holding the tube across the bottom of the frame but the hinge mechanism would need to be more complex so it hinges from both sides and ends up like an O2 Joggler stand.

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In hindsight, I think the benefits offered by using standard AAA batteries outweigh the internal charging abilities of a lipo so this is the route I'll take.

Cheers
Steve
 
That's a better Idea I'd say, depending on the usage of the device the lipo might be flat every time the user wanted to show off their slides.
 
Apologies for the ghetto LiPo on the back (I was testing out longevity the other night) but I've just put together a mock up AAA battery holder/combined frame stand. I've decided to hinge it from the bottom corner so it fits in better with the 6x4 size Lightframe which will be the smallest one.

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The batteries are held in with a rubber end cap which will also hold the negative terminal spring. When inside the holder/stand, the batteries are held against the edge of the Lightframe with embedded neodymium magnets so it stays tight against the frame when not in use for wall hanging.

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The magnets are currently embedded into the outer frame as I was using them to hold the lightbox against it but I'll move them into the Lightframe itself so it stays self-contained.

The wiring for the batteries will be run inside the 360 degree hinge so will be hidden. I've also been working on a universal way to attach the Lightframe to any picture frame you choose. I originally used magnets but these would need to be attached/embedded into the picture frame and I'm planning on selling the Lightframe/mounts without a picture frame so they can be used with any suitable frame. As a result, i'm looking at 3m adhesive Velcro strips that are used to hang photos on the wall so are easy to apply but are not permanent so the frame can be opened easily to change the slides.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Command-Picture-Hanging-Strips-Value/dp/B000OF6X48

I just need to put together a couple of tabs on either side of the lighframe to hold the hook side of the Velcro. To allow for frames with different depths I'll provide some outer frame spacers to fill any gap between the light side of the Lightframe and the rear of the mount/glass to keep it tight.

I've also tried fitting the Lightframe into a different picture frame and it fits perfectly which allows you to easily change the frame to suit your slides as you change them :0)

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As ever, all feedback appreciated.

Cheers
Steve
 
Coming along nicely Steve.
 
Thanks Nick. I've started getting a bit frustrated with how long I'm taking to get a fully complete prototype finished. My main problem is that I've spent a lot of time going backwards and forwards between lipo/AAA power. I'm now 99% sure about AAA for user convenience so now need to make a final battery compartment.

As an aside, looking at final materials, what are people's thoughts about using plastic or wood? My original intention was always a handmade wooden Lightframe to fit in with our F&C retro ethos but a plastic frame would be considerably easier to mass-produce.

Cheers
Steve
 
Another update and I feel like I'm near to the final design :0)

I've built a 360 degree folding support which is flush with the Lightframe when wall mounting but folds out to hold the frame in either horizontal or portrait orientation depending on the slides being displayed.

The support will also house the 2 AAA batteries and small 'joule thief' circuit which provides a stable 5v supply from any voltage down to around 1v meaning that the two batteries will provide power for the led's for much longer than they would normally before the circuit sees them as empty (normally at a higher voltage). Being able to power the leds from only two batteries means that, as well as making it easier to house them in the support, it is also cheaper to run.

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(I'm waiting to borrow a router tomorrow to cut the slot into the support for the batteries)

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After the battery slot is complete I will be sinking the locking bolt into the support so it's flush and then working on the button to switch the frame one. I've been looking at touch/light sensitive buttons but think the best option will be a simple locking push button, potentially built in to an original shutter button.
 
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I've spent the last week looking at alternative ways to make the main body of the lightblock as well as different lighting options to reduce the battery load.

For the main body, I've been looking at two 18mm MDF blocks sandwiched back to back which, whilst slightly thicker than my original design, offer better rigidity and the option of making the unit completely free standing if you don't want a traditional frame.

As well as new materials, I've also been investigating alternative lighting and have been trying an LED backlight module. These run on 3v and only consume around 20mA current meaning that, in theory, I could cover the same backlighting area with only 3 leds and 60mA max current. I bought one of the modules last week and it arrived today. Whilst the size is good, they unfortunately give off a slightly cold blue light instead of pure white. They're also not as bright as the LED strips I've been using but would probably be bright enough with three combined.

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After deciding against the backlight module, I spent some time looking at reducing the amount of LED strip in use to improve battery life. On my original design I have the leds run on all four sides of the frame, meaning that there are 28 leds in total which is almost 500mA. Whilst they're certainly bright, there is a massive knock on with battery life. After playing with a new white card box, I found that if I mount the slides further from the base, the light dispersed much more efficiently so I've now only got 12 LEDs doing the same job which has reduced the current by over half.

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The next job is to route the two MDF slices into their relevant shapes before bonding them together. I'm still waiting on my AA battery box/power bank to arrive so I can build in the USB plug to the frame.

Oh, I've also just bought another polaroid SX-70 in need of repair/restore so I'm trying to decide how to skin it

Only a couple of jobs left eh....
 
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Quick question time. I'm working on a name for this as a product and wondered what everyone's thoughts are about "LightBlock".

The way I'm building it means that it can be used free-standing on a desk/side table or fitted within a traditional photo frame. When used free-standing, I've designed magnetic mounts that clip to the front of it meaning that the whole thing looks like a single block. Initially I'll be spraying it black with matching black mounts but could produce it in any colour, or veneer ;0), that's required.

All thoughts appreciated as ever guys.

Cheers
Steve
 
Googling "Lightblock" brought up a worrisome number of translucent products and existing business names,
for a chance of going somewhere commercially I suggest pick something else.
 
Thanks. I saw the commercial company but I don't think they're UK although the name is basically the same :0(

I haven't registered anything yet so I'll keep working on it.

I have been in touch with a chinese supplier today about the LED circuits and have settled on a credit card sided RF remote to switch the frame on/off as well as dimming the lighting so it can be comfortably used as a bedside display. I've also passed CNC routing plans onto a local company to manufacture a couple of trial units before I make a final decision on the layout. I also received the 4xAA USB power bank I ordered and it looks like it will slot nicely into the rear of the block. All exciting really (in a nerdy/techy way anyway!)

Cheers
Steve
 
LiteBlock :)
 
Slidelight?
 
By all means consider it Steve, but please also consider that light is the correct spelling and lite is so completely wrong that it makes me literally sick to write it. :D
 
I love this!

I think the name needs to emphasise the unique nature of what you're offering - unique slides, it needs a slightly retroish name to go with it. My mind's gone blank right now though. "Silver Halight"? ;-)

I also think that if you made a frame option that looked like the square Instagram logo that lots of people would probably like it. Might be a bit naff, but I reckon it'd sell.

Have you considered using shapeways.com or similar to print components? You can upload 3d designs and have them printed in metal/plastic etc. You can also upload designs and give other people the option to print them in the material of their choice themselves and shapeways.com handle all the billing and you get a percentage. Would mean that you could offer multiple options for stands etc to those that wanted to pay for different versions of some of the fittings...

Once you've pulled this off, maybe you could come up with a similar project where you fix a 35mm slide in the back of an old film SLR, put a light back on it and let people project the image on their walls via the lens of the camera. I'd pay decent money for something like that using a nice old retro camera.
 
Hi Ric, thanks for the heads up about 3D printing. The way to make the unit stand when mounted within a frame is something I need to make a final decision on as I've stated focusing on it being a free-standing block.

I've been looking at embedding a neodymium bar magnet on all four sides so that a small 90 degree bracket could be 'attached' to hold the lightblock and frame together. If I could combine that with a simple stand I think it would give a clean result.

I like your idea of the projector built in to an SLR and actually tried using my 50mm Zuiko lens for something similar when I first started developing the lightblock. The only issue I had was the physics of a 35mm negative being physically larger than the lens elements so it would need to be set back quite a bit to work. Hmmm, maybe my next project ;0)

Cheers
Steve
 
Sorry, I forgot about the Instagram frame idea. I think there was a digital frame design on kickstarter a while ago that used the Instagram logo but not sure what happened to it. On my lightblock I've embedded small round magnets into the front face so the actual mount boards just clip on/off without any visible fixings whilst stopping any light spillage. The block itself is 6"x4" so it can be mounted into any standard size frame you want but there's no reason why the blocks couldn't be made in a square shape too if that was preferred.

I'm making the first blocks out of MDF which I'm going to seal/spray but I'm also on the lookout for reclaimed timber from school desks etc to to give the blocks a bit of 'life' and history like our cameras that provide the slides in the first place.
 
Reclaimed timber's a great idea. No-one loves this because it's modern, the charm is it's simplicity and harking back to simpler times. Magnets to attach optional stand would be great for this as they'd be invisible when not in use.

3D printing would be good for more complex or optional fixings - I can imagine having the on/off switch being a knurled ring a little like an SLR mode dial, for example. You could offer different options depending on taste or wallet.

Re the SLR projector, I'd be quite taken with a set up that took the back off a film SLR and gave you the option of sliding a smartphone into the back - has its own light source and could project images. Probably not too practical though. If you could project a single image (or if you shoot slides you could even load a whole roll of images in the back and manually wind through them) then the projector camera could be tripod mounted in your living room, projecting on a wall...
 
I'm finding myself torn between modern and classic with the design and finish. The techy in me is designing a modern, gloss, seamless block with no external controls and an RF remote but the F&C in me is looking at brass fittings and chrome (ok, so the brass fittings was an exaggeration..). I keep coming back to more traditional styling because I'm aware the market will be quite niche hence the reclaimed timber with natural grain and varnish. I'm going to stick with the RF remote option though I think purely for aesthetics and to limit the circuit complexity as this will be a sealed unit but I like your thinking about additional options.

I'm waiting for a few more definite quotes for the manufacturing but once I've got them I'm putting together a couple of finished examples and will be looking for some willing beta testers on here to try one for a few weeks in return for honest feedback and maybe a review. Once I've gone over the feedback and improved where needed I'm looking to approach Lomography as, like them or not, they're the largest single backer of analogue photography so naturally it would be good to see what kind of response I would receive from them.
 
One thing to bear in mind - you're putting this out there in (semi) public and so once you approach Lomo or similar - nothing stopping them ripping off your idea for nothing as it's kind of in the public domain...agree they'd be a good fit though. You could almost see this product as generating demand for film shot on Lomo cameras.

I think this should initially go down the retro route as a sterile plastic version could be mass produced in china (and probably would be if it took off!) whereas the beauty of this is the authenticity. Also - thinking about the economics - a "luxury" version where you can legitimately charge a higher cost whilst you recoup your set up costs makes sense. Once the process is refined you could look at a cheaper, simpler version if there's demand.

Maybe worth thinking about kickstarter?
 
Fair comments about the public domain vs security but I've kept this thread going since I started thinking about this for personal use and it's grown into a potentially marketable product. My thinking is that this is enough of a niche market to keep the theft aspect limited but I realise this isn't a perfect idea!

Funnily enough, I was talking to Ian in work today about this and said that Kickstarter is probably my best route to get it funded as well as build interest. Time to get some product shots done as soon as my first units are complete. I agree that the retro/authentic styling is the right way to go in the first instance too.
 
I put together the finalised circuit diagram last night using a 2.5mm barrel jack connector to provide the external 5v power. Thanks to the great advise I got on my other thread regarding the electronics, the circuit provides battery power to the LEDs when the frame is 'free-standing'. Then, when an external 5v source is connected using a USB>2.5mm barrel jack cable from any USB charger or PC, the battery power is cut and the LEDs are powered using the external source as well as providing a pass-through charge function via a female USB plug so that external devices can still be charged using the same USB charger/PC whilst still powering the LEDs.

The reason I wanted to provide the simple pass through charge function is that I personally only have 2 plug sockets by my bed, one is used for a lamp and the other for my phone charger. If I take up one plug to power the Lightblock I'm then stuck for charging my phone. The benefit of a basic pass-through is that no additional internal circuitry is required to provide a charge function as that is managed by the 5v source coming in.

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The reason for not providing an external charge when run on batteries is to ensure the longest possible 'free-standing' run time for the LEDs. In most cases, when running on batteries the frame will likely be wall mounted so there would be no need to charge an external device off it.

My next step is to make up a test circuit to make sure it all functions as expected :0)
 
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