An attempt to help out:
Some thoughts on soft motor sport pics.
This is response to soft images being posted for critiques etc.
It is mostly technical, and not a comment on the aesthetic value of images that appear to be deliberately creative.
Most of it is pretty basic.
What causes soft images?
#1
An object between you and your subject, like a fence or trees.
I havn't had the "pleasure" of shooting through fences, although I mostly shoot from the spectator areas, so I won't touch that one.
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#2
Incorrect shutter speed.
For static subjects, like people, and in the paddock, know you limits;
When hand holding with different focal length lenses.
As a guide think of 1/focal length as a guide for starters. So if I am shooting with a 135mm lens I will try to keep by suhtter speed faster then 1/150 (most likely it will be at 1/200)
It is an individual thing so go out and experiment.
If you are using a P&S or bridge camera you may want to factor in the 35mm eqiuvalent focal length.
In cases like this image stabilisation will help as does a mono pod etc.
Lighting conditions may mean you do not have much of a choice of ISO and aperture. I will usually go wide open (or near wide open) and the kick up the ISO
Example #1
In a garage.
The driver by
dicktay2000, on Flickr
Canon 40D + Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L IS USM Lens
Exposure 0.003 sec (1/320)
Aperture f/6.3 (almost wide open)
Focal Length 400 mm (maximum)
ISO Speed 3200 (maximum)
Exposure Bias -1/3 EV
Exposure Program Aperture-priority AE
That lens is mostly used on a mono pod (except for panning)
The same principals also apply when shooting static subjects, or near static subjects, trackside.
Example #2
A pre-dawn race start - the cars have just started rolling
Race Start by
dicktay2000, on Flickr
Canon 40D + Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L IS USM Lens
Exposure 0.003 sec (1/320)
Aperture f/7.1
Focal Length 100 mm
ISO Speed 3200 (Maximum)
Exposure Program Manual
Shooting racing
Here I like to show blurred wheels, at the very least. Otherwise you may as well be shooting parked cars.
So that means shooting around 1/320 or slower, which still may be too fast for some cars.
This introduces two new problems.
(1) You will need to master the technique of shooting with long lenses at relatively slow shutter speeds. I find the use of a mono pod helps a lot.
(2) If unplanned action occurs your shutter speed will to be too low to capture a sharp image, unless it all happens in slow motion (like a motor cycle rider high siding it).
However if if the images are not sharp they may still meet an end users needs (like an accident investigation).
Example #3 .
At a V8 "test" day. I was probably slightly panning as well.
I like the paint job on this one. by
dicktay2000, on Flickr
Canon 40D + Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L IS USM Lens
Exposure 0.006 sec (1/160)
Aperture f/11.0
Focal Length 340 mm
ISO Speed 100
Exposure Bias -1/3 EV
Exposure Program Shutter speed priority AE
If you can't see the wheels then you can shoot at higher shutter speeds, light permitting, without any problems.
So camera or subject motion should not be a cause of soft images for a lot of "cars in a scene" photographs.
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#3
Focusing.
For static subjects this should never be a problem, even when shooting wide open.
I normally use single shot autofocus with centre focus point only active. Focus and recompose if necessary.
Example #1, above shows this.
If windscreens etc are causing problems then switch to manual focus.
Trackside action.
This is where it may get harder. Out of focus pics are the single bigest cause of technical failures in my motor sport photography
Normally the camera is set up with focus tracking on and centre focus point only active.
I try to pick up the subject early and start tracking it with the shutter button depressed to give the lens time to "lock on" before fully depressing the shutter button.
If you are shooting a burst with oncomming cars usually only the first or second pic will be sharp (depending on the cars speed).
Newer (I am shooting with older cameras) cameras have better focussing sytems so read the manual etc and see which works best for you.
You may also want to investigate back button focussing, some photographers love it. I am not entirely comfortable able using it.
I try to have my aperture around F8-F11 as this will give me a bit more leway.
Example #4.
These shots are relatively easy as you have plenty of time to pick up the subject.
IMG_8149 by
dicktay2000, on Flickr
Camera Canon EOS 40D + Tokina 80-400 lens.
Exposure 0.002 sec (1/500) (you can't see any wheels with these vehicles so using a higer than normal shutter speed doesn't matter)
Aperture f/11.0
Focal Length 400 mm
ISO Speed 400
Exposure Bias +1/3 EV
Exposure Program Shutter speed priority AE
When fast cars are moving away from you autofocus doesn't work so well so you may want to focus on a spot, possibly using manual focus, and wait for the cars to arrive.
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#4
Panning
If you get your panning right it can look good....... otherwise......
It does take a fair bit of practice
Example #5
It is possible to get sharp panning shots as in this example.
Here is a tutorial on panning of mine, of mine.
http://digital-photography-school.com/forum/tutorials/121859-panning-motor-sport.html
Sunset on the strip by
dicktay2000, on Flickr
Shot at 1/100
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#6
Camera and lens etc
For static shots and cars in a landscape almost any camera will be fine, especially when shooting in reasonable light levels.
For shooting action you may want to step it up a bit equipment wise, and this is from personal experience, for more consistent results, especially in the autofocus department.
The difference in performance is like night and day between entry level dslrs and mid range dslrs, even with older models.
The same applies with lenses. Beside improved image quality, especially at the wider apertures, better lenses also focus a lot faster.
Use lens hoods as this will possibly reduce flare and also help keep rain and and spray off the front of the lens.
I usually only use "protection" filters where there is a lot of rubbish in the air like dust amd water.
Setting the image quality to maximum and RAW will allow you to get the most out of what you shoot albiet with a reduced buffer capacity and a possible large increase in post processing time.
Try to fill the frame with the subject although allowing a little room for cropping for compositional purposes may help.
When shooting shutter speed is #1 priority so unwanted subject or camera motion is not a problem
If light levels drop I do not have any problems shooting wide open (to maintain the shutter speed) and at increased ISO keeping in mind icreased ISO means more noise and softer images.
In worst case scenario shoot aperture priority (or manual if need be) with the lens wide open, maximum ISO, and take what ever shutter speed you can get.
It may mean a lot of post processing including noise reduction, possibly selectively.
Get the exposure right .. beside loosing details in blown highlights, under exposed images may be recovered when post processing at a cost of increased noise causing which may cause softness.
Example #6
This is a worst case scenario. During the last race of the day in fading light.
This pic has had a lot of PPing.
Mark Alexander by
dicktay2000, on Flickr
Camera Canon EOS 40D + Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L IS USM Lens
Exposure 0.006 sec (1/160)
Aperture f/5.6 (wide open)
Focal Length 400 mm
ISO Speed 3200 (maximum)
Exposure Bias 0 EV
Flash Off, Did not fire
Exposure Program - Manual
I would have been using a monopod.
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#7
Post processing
It can make a huge difference and is a necessity when shooting RAW.
Normally is (if needed);
Cropping
Colour balance.
Levels adjustment.
Give it a bit of punch (lightroom presets)
Image resizing (if for web publication)
Noise reduction.
Sharpening (for web or print).
Normally for web publication if the image doesn't look good I don't publish it, unless content dictates otherwise.
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Larger versions of the pics are on my Flickr stream
Richard
