Canon 5D MKIII official owners/users thread, anything related to the 5D MKIII

I have some questions question about the 5d3:

auto iso:

on my mk2 auto iso only works in AV/TV, and sets the shutter speed to 1/focal length- when shooting a wide angle lens I get motion blur and there's no way of 'speeding up the shutter' without flicking over to M or TV

with the 5d3 can you shoot auto iso in M mode (this would solve shutter speed problems and mean my aperture was fixed), and still get exposure compensation?

Exposure compensation doesn't work in manual mode but I'm not sure I understand how it could. In manual you adjust the aperture and shutter speed until you're exposed correctly according to the meter - if you want compensation then just adjust until the exposure is where you want it, or am I misunderstanding?

As for speeding up the shutter, you can select the minimum shutter speed used when Auto ISO is in use.

responsiveness:

my 5d2 takes about a second to display the image on the screen, when i'm shooting in nightclubs I want to glance down to review the image immediately after taking so I can adjust settings and take another shot before the subject has even realized i'd taken the first shot- the 5d2 is too slow for me in this, is the 5d3 quicker to display the image?

I reckon it's about half a second between the shutter firing and the image appearing on-screen.

the rate button:

I use the protect button on my 5d2 to pick the best images, but then there's no way to select only the 'rated' images, so I can scan though them quickly or even just see how many 'keepers' i've shot that session- on the 5d3 is there a way to show only rated images? I know there's a slideshow feature but basically what I want is to be able to 'rate' as I shoot, then keep checking my 'rated' folder, and when it hits 150 pics I know that i've done what i'm paid to do and can go home, at the moment I have to count up in my head the 'rated' images! also do the ratings transfer over to lightroom?

I don't think there's any way of just viewing rated images I'm afraid. The rating do transfer to Lightroom - at least that's what I've read, not tried it myself as I don't use in-camera ratings.

card slots:

I use SD exclusively, due to cost concerns and ease of use (they go straight into my laptop)- I use a CF to SD adaptor on the 5d2, with the 5d3 I know the SD slot isn't UHS compatible (not that it really matters as I doubt i'll fill the buffer), but how would performance be using an SD card in the CF card slot with the adaptor (like using the adaptor because yes SD cards are too small! and easily lost!)
if the CF card slot writes faster than the SD, then perhaps using a fast (I use 600x) SD cards in the CF card slot is a great alternative to expensive CF cards!

For this to work, you'd need an adapter which supports both UHS for the inserted SD card and then UDMA for it's CF connection to the camera. I'm not such adapters even exist but, if they do, they're going to be rather expensive.
 
Exposure compensation doesn't work in manual mode but I'm not sure I understand how it could. In manual you adjust the aperture and shutter speed until you're exposed correctly according to the meter - if you want compensation then just adjust until the exposure is where you want it, or am I misunderstanding?

say for example I want to shoot at f5.6 for deep depth of field, or f2 for shallow depth of field, and keep my shutter locked at 1/60 to freeze motion, and use auto iso to provide the correct exposure, if then the scene is over/underexposed and the camera selects iso 800 when it really needs to select iso 1600, there is no way to intentionally overexpose (to tell the camera to select a more sensitive iso), or underexpose (chose a lower iso)- that is what I mean when I say auto iso in manual mode

As for speeding up the shutter, you can select the minimum shutter speed used when Auto ISO is in use.

is it easy to change this on the fly? say if I go from shooting a performance on the stage (high shutter speed, high iso) and then turn around to shoot reaction shots of the audience at a slower speed with lower iso- or is it buried in the menu somewhere

I guess using manual mode in the way i'm used to using it will be the way forward, M mode in constant light (adjust shutter, iso. aperture according to subject), Av in changing good light, TV in changing low light (to lock shutter speed where I want it to freeze movement)


I reckon it's about half a second between the shutter firing and the image appearing on-screen.

no quicker than the 5d2 then, ideal world it would be there instantly, so as soon as I look down from the viewfinder the image is there for viewing- I only need to see if the flash is correctly exposed


I don't think there's any way of just viewing rated images I'm afraid. The rating do transfer to Lightroom - at least that's what I've read, not tried it myself as I don't use in-camera ratings.

thanks, i've read that the image slideshow function can filter for rated images? anyone able to confirm that


For this to work, you'd need an adapter which supports both UHS for the inserted SD card and then UDMA for it's CF connection to the camera. I'm not such adapters even exist but, if they do, they're going to be rather expensive.


so UDMA and UHS aren't just the same thing with a different name, interesting

still think i'd probably use SD cards until I started getting issues with a full buffer

used to use 1000x CF cards but sold them as too much money and too inconvenient, no difference in my 5d2 or 1d3 either, and although they benchmarked nearly twice as fast as the 600x SD cards they were only marginally faster in real world read times, using photo mechanic and lightroom


thanks for your help and advice
 
is it easy to change this on the fly? say if I go from shooting a performance on the stage (high shutter speed, high iso) and then turn around to shoot reaction shots of the audience at a slower speed with lower iso- or is it buried in the menu somewher

It's in the ISO Settings menu but you could do one of two things - either add it to the My Menu for easier access, or set up a couple of custom modes, so C1/C2, each with different Auto ISO settings so you could easily switch between them using the main mode dial.

no quicker than the 5d2 then, ideal world it would be there instantly, so as soon as I look down from the viewfinder the image is there for viewing- I only need to see if the flash is correctly exposed

To be honest, by the time you've taken your eye away from the viewfinder, moved the camera away and looked down at the screen, the image would be there.

so UDMA and UHS aren't just the same thing with a different name, interesting

Not as far as I know but I could be wrong. I remember a few years back I looked at adapters as CF cards were so much more expensive than SD (even more-so than now) but the vast majority were incredibly slow.

still think i'd probably use SD cards until I started getting issues with a full buffer

According to DP Review, the fastest SD speeds supported by the 5D3 are 45MB/s, any faster and you're wasting money. Frankly that's fast enough unless you're doing loads of burst shooting.

I primarily use CF as my 7D and 40D use those and have a couple of 60MB/s cards. I also use SD but only as a back with the 5D3 writing RAW to both for when I need the security (weddings etc).

thanks for your help and advice

No worries :)
 
It's in the ISO Settings menu but you could do one of two things - either add it to the My Menu for easier access, or set up a couple of custom modes, so C1/C2, each with different Auto ISO settings so you could easily switch between them using the main mode dial.

good idea to use the c1/c2 dials

i'm trying to decide between the 6d and new lenses or the 5d3, and little things like programability and the extra custom function might be a deal breaker

To be honest, by the time you've taken your eye away from the viewfinder, moved the camera away and looked down at the screen, the image would be there.

you're probably right, but i'm talking about just pushing the camera a couple inches from my face and glancing down, adjusting settings and then shooting again- as soon as I take the camera from my eye the subject walks away, every god dam time, man I hate drunk people...

According to DP Review, the fastest SD speeds supported by the 5D3 are 45MB/s, any faster and you're wasting money. Frankly that's fast enough unless you're doing loads of burst shooting.

i'm more concerned with the read speed, I've shot events where the press deadline was 15 minutes after the event and a quick read was a god send

i'd almost certainly be ok with SD as I think i've used the high speed burst on my 1d about twice, so don't usually shoot action/sports- but I never know what I might have to cover- will stick with SD though

I primarily use CF as my 7D and 40D use those and have a couple of 60MB/s cards. I also use SD but only as a back with the 5D3 writing RAW to both for when I need the security (weddings etc).

I know it can happen, but has anyone ever had a card failure that wasn't human error? I know in 60k frames i've never had a card failure, and I don't use dual cards in my 1d
i've done a lot of reading and never really heard anyone talk about card failure except for cards that arrived DOA
 
I've (touch wood) yet to have a card failure but then I could just have been lucky. I use Sandisk cards exclusively. I'm just paranoid and having the option of dual cards eases my mind. Of course I use two bodies anyway and have a backup on top of that but sometimes I've felt the need to make sure I get critical shots on both cameras for redundancy in case a card fails but having dual cards in the 5D3 alleviates that need.
 
I've (touch wood) yet to have a card failure but then I could just have been lucky. I use Sandisk cards exclusively. I'm just paranoid and having the option of dual cards eases my mind. Of course I use two bodies anyway and have a backup on top of that but sometimes I've felt the need to make sure I get critical shots on both cameras for redundancy in case a card fails but having dual cards in the 5D3 alleviates that need.

I was going to do that (take pics on both cameras), or even use eye-fi cards to send files out to the iPad


i'm actually having a hard time justifying the 5d3 now, as it seems the 6d has the same auto iso features- and i'm really not sure whether the 5d3 has any programmable features i'd really use

i'm not sure I need the 5d3 AF (although something between the 6d and 5d3 would be nice), would probably never use the 6fps burst either- and for the price of the 6d I could keep the 1d3- if I got the 5d3 would have to sell the 1d3
would definitely limit the AF system to 15 or even just 9 points

when I shoot i'm usually using hotshot flashes, or the yongnyo st-e3 so they have AF assist that really helps out in low light anyway


the only thing that would be nice is the viewfinder grid- I shoot with the grid screen in the 1d and miss it in the 5d2, could replace the 6d screen with the grid screen but the 5d3 has it built in
I think both have an electronic level though, and there are grids in live view mode

other things that make me consider spending an extra £1000:
FEC without going into the quick menu (this could be a deal breaker)
white balance button (although I mainly shoot AWB anyway)
program DOF button to one-shot > ai servo (probably never use this)
star rating would save me from doing 2 imports (once to import 'protected' images and once to import the rest), but if i'm on a deadline i'm only going to import the protected images anyway and import the rest later
if there is a way to group the stared images- so that I can show the client only the 'good' images at the end of the shoot- but to be honest if theres a client i'm usually shooting with the iPad anyway and do the rating on there
no thumb controller on 6d- although could use the control dial or use the AF button and then the shutter/control wheel to change point (like I did on my 1ds2)


I guess the thing i'm saying is that i'm currently getting on just fine with the 5d 1d combo, but want a little better high iso (performance) but don't want to spend £1000 on a 6d then wish i'd bough the 5d3, or spend nearly 2k on the 5d3 and wish i'd saved some money with the 6d! Currently I can live with the 11 point AF, but in the future who knows what I might need to shoot- I guess everything only gets cheaper, and for example if I got asked to shoot sports I could pick up a 7d to use, and if I still have my 1d then I can use that!



edit: just read that the 6d also has a rating feature
the 6d shows a tally of how many images have been rated for each star rating, so I can see at a glance how many images i've set for 5 stars (perfect images) or 4 stars (maybe useful for alternative angle etc)
and the 6d can jump between 'rated' shots, so I can show to my client on the back of the camera- great!
6d has programmable buttons, including setting DOF button to one-shot>ai servo

so now i'm even less enthusiastic about the 5d3- all it really has going for it is the AF and the joystick...and perhaps burst rate, although an extra 1.5fps for an extra £1000, please you'd do better to just buy a 1d!
 
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Edit sorry just realised you haven't bought one yet..
 
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Sounds like the 6D will do everything you need to be honest. The deal-breakers for me on the 6D vs 5D3 were the joystick and AF as I'm used to these on the 7D and couldn't live without them now plus the use of CF cards as I didn't want to go solely SD on one body and CF on the other two.

Am a bit confused about your FEC comment - I thought all Canon bodies allowed you to alter FEC by simply hitting the top button and using the wheel to adjust, does the 6D not do this?
 
Sounds like the 6D will do everything you need to be honest. The deal-breakers for me on the 6D vs 5D3 were the joystick and AF as I'm used to these on the 7D and couldn't live without them now plus the use of CF cards as I didn't want to go solely SD on one body and CF on the other two.

Am a bit confused about your FEC comment - I thought all Canon bodies allowed you to alter FEC by simply hitting the top button and using the wheel to adjust, does the 6D not do this?

on the 6d FEC is in a menu, there is no button for it (this sucks) but i'll probably just shoot the nightclubs/events-using-flash with the 5d2 or 1d3 and use the 6d for available light work



I can see a 5d3 and a 6d in my future, but I also need to pay off some debts first- need the new camera and to know it inside out by august- so if I can beg/borrow/steal/earn/sell my way to 5d3 money by august i'll have one, otherwise it's the 6d for now, 5d3 down the line
 
I never realised the 6D had a different layout for the top buttons. That's beyond a joke from Canon, seriously. Even my ancient 40D has the standard set of dual-purpose buttons across the top which includes FEC. That smacks of Canon deliberately knobbling the functionality to stop the 6D stealing too many sales from the 5D3.
 
I never realised the 6D had a different layout for the top buttons. That's beyond a joke from Canon, seriously. Even my ancient 40D has the standard set of dual-purpose buttons across the top which includes FEC. That smacks of Canon deliberately knobbling the functionality to stop the 6D stealing too many sales from the 5D3.

definitely

but £1000 extra in my pocket is hard to resist...
an extra 2 button clicks to get to FEC, perhaps it's a worthwhile compromise

from what I can see you press the Q button then scroll right and that's FEC- i'm not sure if you then have to press select again or if you can just immediately alter it using the shutter dial- and if that info is reported in the viewfinder? if so I could live with that, if it isn't then that really really really sucks
but
maybe I can do my FEC on the flash instead
or just bracket the flash

really just need to get a 6d in my hands and try it out on a few shoots, if after a week of shooting I don't like the lack of joystick and FEC control then i'll sell it on and get the 5d3

pretty excited for a smaller, lighter weight camera though, when I shot the 6d I really noticed the size and weight saving- 5d3 is even bigger and heavier than 5d2 (albeit not by much)


would love the 6d with the 5d3 AF- would pay as much as a 5d3 for that- personally think the 6d is too cheap- would rather pay an extra few 100 to get more features, i've decided I'd rather have smaller size/weight and wi-fi than the better build and sealing of the 5d3
 
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Weight-wise I actually prefer a decent weight camera although it does get fatiguing after a while.

The 5D3, with the grip and a 24-70 attached is seriously heavy!
 
Weight-wise I actually prefer a decent weight camera although it does get fatiguing after a while.

The 5D3, with the grip and a 24-70 attached is seriously heavy!
I took mine to a rugby match with 70-300L attached, after 2 hours heavy doesn't do it justice. ! I've been using my Fuji X pro 1 a lot recently so that's why the 5D3 seems so heavy.


Sent from my iPhone using Talk Photography Forums
 
Now imagine what it's like with a grip and the 70-200 II (40% heavier than the 70-300L) :)
 
Who is using what cards in the two slots.
I have only been using the CF slot, as it was said that the SD slot slowed down the writing to the CF card (think I have that right).
But I would like to use a card in the SD slot now to back the CF.
What SD card is recommended?
 
I'm using a Sandisk Extreme 60MB/s CF card and a Sandisk Extreme 45MB/s SD card, writing full RAW files to both cards as I want the security of a backup in case of card failure.

It will slow down burst shooting as it'll be limited by the speed of the slowest card. From what I've read (DPReview), the SD interface is limited to 45MB/s.
 
Who is using what cards in the two slots.
I have only been using the CF slot, as it was said that the SD slot slowed down the writing to the CF card (think I have that right).
But I would like to use a card in the SD slot now to back the CF.
What SD card is recommended?
The speed limit of the SD card slot is 133x or 20MB/s I believe so if your backup plan is to shoot simultaneously to both cards then that is the speed you are restricted to. Getting faster cards than that is overkill for that purpose.
 
Many of you guys use BBF? I'm going o give it ago since I keep reading about it and people seem to love it. Would be interested in your views.
 
Many of you guys use BBF? I'm going o give it ago since I keep reading about it and people seem to love it. Would be interested in your views.

Like you, I read about BBF and thought I'd give it a go. I've been using it for nearly 2 years now. I certainly wouldn't go back to using the shutter button for focus.
 
Cheers guys I think I've read the only downside is when using BBF AI Servo in low light I've just set it up so will let you know how I get on in the coming weeks.

Yes Chris I use the DOF like you. I've also enabled the camera just to display the 41 cross type points.
 
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Cheers guys I think I've read the only downside is when using BBF AI Servo in low light I've just set it up so will let you know how I get on in the coming weeks.

Yes Chris I use the DOF like you. I've also enabled the camera just to display the 41 cross type points.
I use bbf and can't go back to the default way anymore
 
found out that the quick menu in the 6d stays on whatever the last setting was- so if you change WB a lot then just leave it set to WB, if like me you change FEC a lot just leave it to that, then press Q and spin the shutter dial to adjust- easy- and alleviates the lack of a physical button on the 6d, I think you can also program the set button to be ISO/WB/FEC etc, which is again pretty cool
 
Joined this club last Saturday. Lots of retailers suddenly offering double cash back (retailer £150 and Canon £150) so around 10% reduction for the 5D3 and 24-105L I bought. Was going to get one from HDEW but the difference in cost was now small enough to make me go high street, and as a bonus I have now been able to register with CPN at the silver level, will see what if any benefits that brings.

First proper go with the beast, shot this. Very pleased I spent so long getting to know my 7D as they are very similar to operate.


NX4A0100_1500 by david.williams221162, on Flickr
 
5Diii and the world sharpest auto focus lens (apparently).

AhQYfwc.jpg
 
Wow, has it really been so long since the last post?

Ok, bumping this thread back up with a grip question. I know some of you use them, but I've never got on with the added size and bulk in the past.
I've just got my first grip for my 5D and....well it's still the same. Other than the portrait mode grip and extra power I really can't see the attraction of a grip.
If I'm to keep this (which I might anyway) I'll have to get bigger bags, or use my Flipside 300 bag. It's quite a big upheaval really, and probably not worth the effort.
I guess I'm more looking for a magical sentence that will make me go "ah, of course, that makes it all worth while".

The one thing I do like is how it makes my semi pro camera look like a pro camera :)
 
I still love my canon 5d mk3
 
Wow, has it really been so long since the last post?

Ok, bumping this thread back up with a grip question. I know some of you use them, but I've never got on with the added size and bulk in the past.
I've just got my first grip for my 5D and....well it's still the same. Other than the portrait mode grip and extra power I really can't see the attraction of a grip.
If I'm to keep this (which I might anyway) I'll have to get bigger bags, or use my Flipside 300 bag. It's quite a big upheaval really, and probably not worth the effort.
I guess I'm more looking for a magical sentence that will make me go "ah, of course, that makes it all worth while".

The one thing I do like is how it makes my semi pro camera look like a pro camera :)

I wouldn't exactly attribute looking like a pro camera by adding a grip as a plus. Those who know will know a mile off and those who don't aren't going to be worth trying to impress anyway.

Personally I disliked the grip on 5D3, I liked the grip on all other EOS bodies I've used and owned though but the 5D3 just feels better balanced in my hands without a grip. I do only use 1.4 prime lenses for 90% of all my shooting though.


Anyway, to update on this thread. The best lens I have ever owned and used has to be the Sigma 35mm 1.4 DG. Funnily enough my Sigma 85mm 1.4 EX is pretty much just as sharp as the 35 but has more visible purple fringing (though this is completely removed with +2 on the lens calibration slider for purple in LR.

Both lenses are IMO top end for optics and performance and I wouldn't change them for any other lens even if they were offered to me for free (well, I'd sell them and buy the Sigma lens again and pocket the change :p).

My body has a few scuffs and scratches now, it's been around the world with me from mines and caves to extreme heights and -32 degree arctic circle weather conditions. It's never skipped a beat and is fast approaching 50,000 actuations.

I think it's a bit of a beast and certainly lives up to being the 1DX's little brother.

peakstrap_2.jpg


Rock on!
 
Can't use a camera without a grip anymore - literally feels too small and weird in my hands without one.
 
I use 2 5dmk3's for gigs, both without grips as the extra weight ;while it might not seem much makes a big difference over a weekend festival. I'm used to shooting portrait with them and even in the busiest pit I don't have issues. I also use a twin harness to balance the weight on my shoulders.
 
I bought a 5d3 about 3 weeks ago due to a good deal being on offer from Calumet, it's not had a lens fitted to it yet :D

I got the grip for free with it because with a 70-200 or bigger attached the body is too small in my hands to keep a comfortable balance like all the other non 1 bodies.

Anyone used this body with the current sigma 120-300 f2.8 at all?
 
C
I wouldn't exactly attribute looking like a pro camera by adding a grip as a plus. Those who know will know a mile off and those who don't aren't going to be worth trying to impress anyway.

Personally I disliked the grip on 5D3, I liked the grip on all other EOS bodies I've used and owned though but the 5D3 just feels better balanced in my hands without a grip. I do only use 1.4 prime lenses for 90% of all my shooting though.


Anyway, to update on this thread. The best lens I have ever owned and used has to be the Sigma 35mm 1.4 DG. Funnily enough my Sigma 85mm 1.4 EX is pretty much just as sharp as the 35 but has more visible purple fringing (though this is completely removed with +2 on the lens calibration slider for purple in LR.

Both lenses are IMO top end for optics and performance and I wouldn't change them for any other lens even if they were offered to me for free (well, I'd sell them and buy the Sigma lens again and pocket the change :p).

My body has a few scuffs and scratches now, it's been around the world with me from mines and caves to extreme heights and -32 degree arctic circle weather conditions. It's never skipped a beat and is fast approaching 50,000 actuations.

I think it's a bit of a beast and certainly lives up to being the 1DX's little brother.

peakstrap_2.jpg


Rock on!
Can i ask if that is a remove strap system you have or something else? What type is it?
 
I bought a 5d3 about 3 weeks ago due to a good deal being on offer from Calumet, it's not had a lens fitted to it yet :D

I got the grip for free with it because with a 70-200 or bigger attached the body is too small in my hands to keep a comfortable balance like all the other non 1 bodies.

Anyone used this body with the current sigma 120-300 f2.8 at all?

I use mine with the 120-300 OS so not the latest but much the same with size and weight and find it balances very nicely with a grip. I have large hands so that helps as well.
 
Thanks for the replies. I have decided to send it back. I really cant see me using it much, if at all, unless i get a new bag or two, and i cant afford to do that.
Plus ive recently started to hold the camera rather than use a neck strap, and without the grip the camera is just manageable over a few hours.

Lesson learnt, go with what you know works.
 
Clever feature or a little bug?
When reviewing some pictures mid-shoot last week I got into a bit of a knot. Try this (assumes you've got a few images already on the card):
1) press the magnify button
2) spin the wheel anticlockwise (to zoom out), and keep going till you see 4 (or 9) images displayed in a grid
3) cancel this by touching the shutter button
4) now press the playback button and attempt to view this histogram for an image using the INFO button... I don't believe you can!
5) to get out of this little knot you need to press the magnify button then spin the wheel until you are zoomed out to show the whole of one image... now when you press the playback button you can see the histogram in the normal way
Hardly important, but a curious little bug in the user interface - or a very clever feature that I don't understand :)
 
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