10 stop shots, show us what ya got!

Still not had much opportunity to use my Big Stopper but I did take it on a jaunt to France with me and grabbed a couple of long exposures. Not quite as dramatic as some on here!


TRI_7159 by G.A.D, on Flickr
 
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Granton Breakwater Jetty by Stuart Pardue on Flickr
 
some fantastic photo's in this thread, ive had a cokin p filter holder for months now but never got round to getting any filters as im unsure of which to get to get shots like this.? there's so many different numbers out there can anyone tell me which one i would need to get shots like these.? thanks
 
Hi Neil,
You will require an 8, 9 or 10 stop filter to get extreme long exposures like these.
Ian
 
Wow, wow, wow, wow, wow. There are tons of stunning images in this thread! I just love the 10-stop effect on landscapes. I think I have some work to do to raise my standards to the images in here; I tend to find that my 10-stop images look a little flat, but that might be my processing technique that needs some improvement.

A mono conversion of a place called Matterdale End in the Lake District. Tried to go for a faux-infra-red effect in this one.
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I had to have a go at one of the classic UK coastal viewpoints...
7105146663_9b7242566c_z.jpg


This is from Papercourt Lock in Surrey. It looks too dark to me though so might try and re-process:
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The giants causeway...
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Cheers :)
 
The Papercourt Lock photo is excellent and would look brilliant with the shadows lifted.
 
Papercourt Lock is near me - do you park at Newark Priory and walk down the river or in Ripley by the industrial units ? It's a place I'm looking to shoot at...
 
damianmkv said:
Papercourt Lock is near me - do you park at Newark Priory and walk down the river or in Ripley by the industrial units ? It's a place I'm looking to shoot at...
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Hi Damian, I parked in a small off road car park on Newark Lane, opposite mill house. You can then walk along the river through fields.

Great place - a definite one for me to return to.

:)
 
Flashy said:
The Papercourt Lock photo is excellent and would look brilliant with the shadows lifted.
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I've been meaning to reprocess this for a while so will give it a try. I seem to remember not doing this before though because the shot is a bit underexposed and the shadows get really noisy. I'll repost if I manage to work some magic :)

Cheers for the feedback :)
 
I took these last week at Howick in Northumberland. I only generally get a couple of goes at long exposures each year I really need to get out more and try to improve my technique.
In my limited experience of doing these I am begining to realise more and more that a sturdy tripod is essential especially on windy days. I have lots of photos that looked ok on the viewfinder but on closer inspection at home they are slightly blurred I am assuming this is due to the wind slightly moving the camera on the tripod.

 
Greyhound said:
sorry but what is a 10 stop?
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An ND filter that cuts out 10 stops of light for long exposures.
 
TCR4x4 said:
An ND filter that cuts out 10 stops of light for long exposures.
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Hi so what kit do u need to have a crack at these kind of shots x
 
One from me, 90 seconds at f/22 with a Lee Big Stopper.

7570190918_e3ffa8c58d_b_d.jpg
 
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Two of my most recent:



Only time I've really wanted a 300mm+ lens was trying to get this one. Was taken at 200mm and wasn't really what I was after but it'll have to do!

 
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Some great shots in here. Keep up the good work (y)

Gonna order me a 10 stop filter after a fairly successful first attempt at longish exposures the other day with a 1.8 nd filter. Looking forward to seeing what I can produce.
 
edra78 said:
Hi so what kit do u need to have a crack at these kind of shots x
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A 10 stop filter, either screw in or a slot in with appropriate holder and a tripod.
 
are most of these photos taken in dim light?

I bought a 10 stopper recently and had a quick go but it was in fairly bright sunlight. Even at shots of around 8 seconds they appear to be overexposed so I'm not sure how i would achieve some of the shots which are into the minutes of exposure.

I never had the viewfinder covered, would this make a massive difference?

Thanks
 
edra78 said:
Hi so what kit do u need to have a crack at these kind of shots x
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I guess there will be quite a mixture on here. I use a Lee big Stopper in a Lee filter housing. Before that I had a Hitech Pro Stopper. Before that I had a bit of welding glass glued to a filter ring.

There are also screw in types from all sort of manufacturers. B and W make excellent filters and the cheaper Haida ones are getting some good reviews as well. What I like about using a filter system is that you can combine your ND filter with a grad as well.
 
Big_chief said:
are most of these photos taken in dim light?

I bought a 10 stopper recently and had a quick go but it was in fairly bright sunlight. Even at shots of around 8 seconds they appear to be overexposed so I'm not sure how i would achieve some of the shots which are into the minutes of exposure.

I never had the viewfinder covered, would this make a massive difference?

Thanks
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If you were using an 8 second exposure with a 10 stop filter, then presumably your unfiltered exposure was around 1/125s? At a narrow aperture and low iso, that could be fairly bright conditions. It's certainly plenty long enough to get movement in clouds and water etc...

I guess some of the really long exposures are done in dimmer light or really stopped down maybe to f/22 or beyond.
 
ben.tite said:
I had to have a go at one of the classic UK coastal viewpoints...
7105146663_9b7242566c_z.jpg
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Loving this. Beautiful colours

stormcrow said:

Howick - Northumberland by stormcrowuk, on Flickr[/CENTER]
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Very mysterious. I like this. The shapes the highlights give off on the tops of the rocks are wonderful.

GR3Z said:
Anybody using the Hoya ndx 400 for their long exposure shots, is their issues with losing the focus when they attach the filter after that the shot is composed?
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With filters used in these shots, more often than not you will need to compose and focus your shot before attaching the filter. Then turn off auto focus onto manual and then select either one of the semi manual modes or fully manual to select your aperture / exposure.

If you try to focus / compose with the filter on you will find the camera can't see anything to compose and will forever be trying to focus in and out....

Hope this helps

Kris
 
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ben.tite said:
I've been meaning to reprocess this for a while so will give it a try. I seem to remember not doing this before though because the shot is a bit underexposed and the shadows get really noisy. I'll repost if I manage to work some magic :)

Cheers for the feedback :)
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I've replaced the Papercourt Lock photo now so it should appear a bit brighter and more detailed in the shadow areas :)
 
So I have a canon 1000D.
What equipment would I need to get to achieve these results?
 
As posted above you'll need a tripod, remote shutter release, 10 stop filter, filter holder.

I have the 100mm Hi-tech 10 stop filter with the Hi-tech holder, I like this combination as I can compose the shot and focus properly then slide the filter in. Screw on versions like the B&W can result in the focus being off if you don't have focus lock on the lens.
 
A couple from Scotland. I've a ten stop and a 4 stop that managed to get stuck together half way through the holiday and I cannot remember which shots have what filter combo, so these are either 4, 10 or 10+4 stop shots. None of them much good but I am learning landscape photography slowly:

1. Holy Loch
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2. HDR of Loch Lomond
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3. Loch Lomond
7752765476_709b473d29_b.jpg
 
Just taken delivery of a B&W 110 single coated 10 stop.

Is it better to shoot in jpeg or raw?
 
Grape7 said:
Just taken delivery of a B&W 110 single coated 10 stop.

Is it better to shoot in jpeg or raw?
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Raw, all the time for everything :) That's my rule of thumb, haven't used jpg for years.

Enjoy the filer :) its the same one that I have!
 
Thanks Ben.
I'm sure there are going to be a lot of bad shots taken before I get a good one.
 
Grape7 said:
Thanks Ben.
I'm sure there are going to be a lot of bad shots taken before I get a good one.
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It took me a few attempts to get used to the filter, but, after a couple of practice shots you'll be away I'm sure. My process is:

  1. Set the camera up on the tripod with remote release
  2. Switch to manual focus and focus on your chosen point
  3. Take a shot without the filter and look at the histogram to check exposure
  4. When you have the correct exposure, make a note of the ISO / aperature / shutter speed
  5. Switch camera to bulb mode. Set the ISO / aperature to the same as before and then screw on your filter.
  6. Calculate your exposure time (This is handy! http://bkv.tumblr.com/post/24870045/exposure-table-for-nd110)
  7. Click your remote release and lock it for the magic to happen!

Mirror lock up is good to use too to ensure razor sharp shots :) Not done it myself but always tell myself that I should try it but always forget!

The hardest part is judging the exposure time for sunrise / sunset when the intensity of the light can change so much in a short space of time. I've had instances during sunsets where I plan and meter for my shot, however, when shooting the light level has dipped so I've added an extra 2-4 minutes and it still hasn't been enough to compensate for the lower light intensity!

Enjoy!
 
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